[VT] National archaeological site lost in banana farms

[Rik Ponne]

*National archaeological site lost in banana farms*

 

Vientiane Times 6 August 2013

 

The ancient city of Souvanna Khomkham is listed as a national archaeological site, a place for historical research and knowledge, and a tourist destination in Bokeo province.

But contrary to its national significance, the ancient remains are surrounded by kilometres of large-scale banana farms, scattered amongst hectares of plantations.

Located in Bokeo’s Ton Pheung district on a site about 40km from the district’s main town, the area was previously allocated for local residents to use for small-scale agriculture.

However in recent years, Chinese investors have begun renting the land and using it for banana plantations.

According to initial surveys, 44 archaeological vestiges and buildings like temples, stupas, images of Buddha and water reservoirs are hidden across about 10,000ha of land.

Most of the traces of the past are now ruined, with only a few left standing.

According to a Bokeo Information, Culture and Tourism official, there is not enough funding available to preserve and renovate the site, particularly given the area is so large.

Souvanna Khomkham was originally located on a small island which disappeared when the Mekong River swelled and swallowed it whole. It was rediscovered when water levels dropped.

The date the ancient city was founded remains a mystery. In his book ‘Exploration of the Mekong River’, 19th century explorer Francis Garnier said historical records in Sri Lanka pointed to the city first appearing in the fifth

century AD.

Souvanna Khomkham is merely the first name given to the city, which is believed to have been destroyed and rebuilt under a number of names over the years before becoming the ruins visitors can see today.

While the years brought many attacks from Lao and Thai bandits, one remnant attests to the high level of artistry and craftsmanship of the era – a Buddha statue seated in the meditation position made from bricks and plaster.

The statue is 7.22m high, not including the ushnisha (special headdress), and 7.1m wide. Each shoulder measures 1.1m across, and from the side, the length from the hip to the knee is 3.6m.

It is believed to be one of the largest images of Buddha in the region, and was probably once enclosed within the grounds of a palace.

Only parts of the body and head of the statue are left, with the throne, lower areas and ushnisha most likely excavated by looters in search of treasure.

Another Buddha image, almost as large as the first one, has also collapsed due to erosion.

Phra Lan Tue or Phra Rasmi is made of bronze and is now at the bottom of the Mekong near the small island of Don Haeng.

There were a number of stupas left but all were desecrated by looters for the treasures placed inside them.

 

 

One of the largest Buddha statues from ancient times has been
abandoned and enveloped by banana farms.

A stupa from the ancient city of Souvanna Khomkham can hardly be
seen through the banana plantations.

 

 

A Buddha image ruined by farming.