Rajasthan Guide Book
Leanna Perr
It was my first trip on my own and I am not sure I can recommend India as a first destination for a solo female traveller. For me, it was tough sometimes. Nothing could prepare me for the overwhelming chaos.
India kept pulling me back and I have visited the country several times by now. As beautiful and diverse as the rest of the country is, my memories from my first trip backpacking Rajasthan will always be special.
By plane: For international visitors it is probably cheapest and best to fly into Delhi international airport. Jaipur also has an international airport, but with limited connections outside of Asia and the Middle East.
From Delhi you can continue your travels to Rajasthan by train or by taking a domestic flight to either Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur or Udaipur. Considering the environment and the excellent railway network I recommend travelling by train.
By train: Rajasthan has an excellent train network that connects Rajasthan with the rest of India. Trains run from the main cities in Rajasthan to Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Bangalore and beyond.
Jaipur is part of the so-called Golden triangle. One of the most popular tourist routes in India that includes the three most visited cities in the country. The others are Delhi and Agra. Therefore, Jaipur is for some the only city they visit in Rajasthan.
Transport: There are frequent trains and buses from Delhi to Jaipur taking between 5 to 6 hours. The best train is the Delhi Ajmer Shatabdi express leaving New Delhi train station every day at 06:05 and arriving in Jaipur at 10:35. This is the fastest train taking only 4 hours and 30 minutes. Because the train starts in New Delhi delays are not as common as with other trains. There are also trains to Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Udaipur
The main reason for me to include Bikaner to my Rajasthan itinerary was to visit the Karni Mata temple in Deshnok. Bikaner was actually just a necessary stop in my desire to see others worship rats, but it turned out to be a nice city as well.
In a remote corner of the Thar desert lies the city of Jaisalmer with its yellow fortress built on top of the hill. This pleasant city full of color and beauty was one of my favourite places in Rajasthan. Everything I imagined about Rajasthan came true here.
Accommodation: I originally booked my room in Oasis Star Haveli Guesthouse. Unfortunately or fortunately my room there was not available and they put me up in their partner hotel Heera Court for the same price. An excellent place with a rooftop terrace that has beautiful views on the desert and the cenotaphs of Jaisalmer.
Jodhpur is incredibly picturesque with its blue houses. Therefore, the charm of Jodhpur can be found in simply wandering through the small alleys. Climbing uphill towards the impressive Meherangarh fort will reward you with beautiful views over the city. There are several theories about why the city is blue. Apparently the blue paint keeps the houses cool during the summer heat and keeps termites away.
Transport: there are good train connections with Jaisalmer and Jaipur, but not to Udaipur. If you wish to travel between Jodhpur and Udaipur it is one of the very few routes that can not be done by train. However, there are frequent buses.
Accommodation: There are two accommodation options I can recommend in Jodhpur. The Durag Niwas Guesthouse is not only clean and nicely decorated, but also supports a good cause. You can visit their projects at the Sambhali Trust. They are also looking for long-term volunteers if you are interested. Reservations are recommended, as they are often full. The Hill view Guesthouse is another good budget place to stay. The owner Kumari is extremely friendly and worth getting to know. The location is excellent. It is right under the Mehrangarh fort overlooking the city.
Unfortunately the people of Pushkar made spirituality their business. As a tourist, be prepared to encounter several touts trying to scam you or do prayers for you and your whole extended family for exorbitant prices. Simply ignore them and see the beauty of this small town. Watch the sun go down and observe the evening prayers at Varah ghat for an authentic spiritual ceremony that is free to watch.
Accomodation in India is cheap and there are lots of options in different price ranges. New hostels with clean and professional dormitories are opening up as well throughout India such as Zostel Hostel that has branches in Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Udaipur and Pushkar.
Oyo rooms are a great option to look for accommodation if you prefer good quality private rooms. They have different price classes and are not necessarily the cheapest, but they sometimes have great deals available.
As a traveller you might think that because rajasthan is in India you will find Indian food there. Things are not that simple and every region in India has in fact its very own cuisine. The indian thali ( a set meal ) will be different from place to place.
Rajasthani food is influenced by its desert climate and therefore uses a lot of grains, pulses and dairy products. A Rajasthani thali often includes roti, papad and lentil curries such as moong dal or panchmela dal.
Dal Baati Churma is another typical Rajasthani meal consisting of small round breads that are deep fried in ghee butter and served with a lentil curry. The breads can be plain or stuffed with onions and pees.
Most dishes in Rajasthan are vegetarian, but for those who love meat there are some unique Rajasthani specialities. Laal Maas is famous throughout Rajasthan, but only try this if you are up for really spicy food. This meat curry uses lots of red chillies.
Restaurants in Rajasthan do not serve Rajasthani food exclusively though. It is very easy to find popular north indian dishes like chicken butter masala and paneer curries (indian cheese). Sometimes even South Indian food like dosa (rice flour pancakes) is on the menu.
For a taste of traditional Rajasthani folk music and dance I can recommend the cultural show at Bagore ki Haveli in Udaipur. Handicrafts in Rajasthan include carpets, pottery, jewellery and traditional dresses.
Rajasthan is very multicultural and there are over 50 languages spoken in the state. The four main dialects are Marwari, Jaipuri, Malwi and Mewati. Most people also speak and understand Hindi and English.
The best way to travel through Rajasthan is by train, especially for the longer distances. The only disadvantage is that trains do get full and it is better to reserve seats beforehand as soon as possible.
If you plan to buy your tickets online at the last minute I can recommend Confirmtkt that gives an indication how high the chances are that a possible waiting list ticket will become an actual ticket.
If you prefer not to book tickets online I strongly advise you to go to a train station on your first day. In New Delhi train station you can book your tickets at the Tourist ticket office. The people in the office are extremely helpful and friendly and do speak some english. Bring enough cash, because you can not pay with your card and bring a pen to fill in the necessary forms.
I always travelled in sleeper class and think it is ok. In theory seats are reserved, so there should not be more people in the train than there are seats. In practice though there will always be a surplus of human beings. If you find one or more persons on your seat, just be firm about your reservation and that the whole seat is yours.
Makemytrip: This Indian booking site also has a useful Make my trip app that allows you to book hotels, train tickets and bus tickets in India. The fees are only slightly higher than the real price
Travelling in Rajasthan is cheap. If you stay in cheap guesthouses and eat local food on the streets you can easily get by on less than $20 dollar a day. For 30$ a day you can travel comfortably throughout Rajasthan, staying in somewhat better places.
Tours: Tours will be your biggest expense if you opt for them. An overnight desert safari in Jaisalmer is available from 30 Euro onwards. Always check carefully what is and is not included in the price.
The biggest risks in Rajasthan are related to your health. Sanitary conditions in Rajasthan are very basic and hygiene standards low. Diarrhoea is the most common health issue among travellers in India. Bring a water filter with you and a hand sanitizer to minimize the risk.
At last you might be confronted with scams in Rajasthan. People are very creative in trying to get your tourist money in their direction. They might tell you your hotel no longer exists and they know a much better one. Tuk tuk drivers might take a long detour to encourage you to visit their friends shop etc.
That said, sexual violence is a real problem in India. As a woman travelling alone you will probably be stared at or get some rude comments. Below I will give some advice to prevent worse and you will most likely be safe.
Dress Modestly: Leave your bikini, short skirts and tank tops at home. Make sure your shoulders and legs are covered. Best is to buy a shalwar kameez. They are very comfortable, lightweight and easy to wash.
Look as if you know where you are going: Even if you are completely lost, look self-assured and act as if you know very well where you are going. Make it a rule that once it gets dark your back at your hotel, unless you are with other people that you know. If you feel someone is following you, try to look for other woman in the street and ask for help. Often informing passersby of a dodgy situation will scare away a possible offender.
Rajasthan is a beautiful state, but it is important to be aware of the possible negative impacts mass tourism can have. Traveling sustainably in Rajasthan, involves conscious choices that minimize your environmental impact and support the local community. Luckily, Rajasthan itself has lots of community-based and eco-tourism initiatives.
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