The Boy With Green Hair Full Movie

[Dorinda Avancena]

Ihave been battling green hair algae in my Fluval EVO 13.5 and nothing seems to work. I want to avoid dumping chemicals in the tank and spending money on a bunch of crap. I tested for Phosphates and they were hardly traceable and nitrates are not high. It is growing on my sandbed and on dry rocks. I have scrubbed it off the rocks and scraped it off the sand bed with a net. I also cleaned the filtration block and entire sump area in the tank and have reduced lighting.

I have a strawberry crab, a OC Clown, and a royal gramma in the tank, I have been thinking about adding snails or a conch to clean the algae up. I do weekly water changes and the phosphates are not high enough to explain the green hair algae. I am looking for recommendations for a good CUC for the tank. Some have said to avoid snails and conches, but at this point, nothing I do is working.

Unfortunately, I lost my enchanted green birdnest tree. The polyps are still greenish but the structure has bleached, I am not sure if this is caused by the algae. I have never seen any algae on the bird nest coral. Also, the Ca, Mg, and Alk all tested in the normal ranges, so I can only think the algae-bacteria is affecting the health of the coral.

Emerald crabs are a hit or miss as to whether they'll power through the algae like a lawnmower, or ignore it. They've also been known to sometimes nip on corals, but I've had some luck with one that just eats patches of GHA. That keeps him too full to go after anything else. Could be something to consider.

I have considered it but was not sure if it would be a bad mix with my strawberry crab. I got the strawberry crab because it is little and does not grow big. I have heard many stories about the emerald crabs eating fish and corals. My strawberry crab has given me no issues at all.

Not sure, I had asked in a different thread and was told to avoid snails because I will need to feed them when there is no algae. How many snails would you recommend for my tank? I just do not want 1000 snails covering the glass. Also, do you know if the algae can kill a coral without being on it?

If you can buy snails locally..you can just start with a few snails and add more if needed. Maybe 3-5? I would try and remove some of the GHA so it's short as not all types of snails can tackle it once it's long. It's easier for them to prevent GHA when it's new baby sprouts than eat existing stuff.

I would also make sure to be cleaning and siphoning your sandbed if you aren't and make sure you are not packing your sump/AIO area with sponges or rubble or anything that can trap debris. Blast any debris off your rocks...it will need to be cleaned more frequently while the GHA exists as the GHA traps debris like crazy.

It can recover but I would stay away from anymore SPS for awhile...tank is honestly too young and immature to bother with SPS. It takes longer with dry rock for things to really settle in. I would start with some softies and then move to LPS after the tank is running good for a few months. Keep in mind the stock light is not super powerful so try and stick to appropriate additions.

It looks like cyano but some other little algaes too. Good husbandry....flow... Manual removal should beat the cyano. I would still add a few small snails...every tank should have at least some film algae for them to eat. I don't scrape my black back wall and let them munch on the film algae there.

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. What is a good lighting schedule? Is there any snails that eat green cynao and hair algae? Would a shrimp be a good addition to clean the holes in the dry rock?

--I removed rocks and scrubbed (I bought cheap, small metal wire brushes), plucked and removed as much as I could by hand. I let mine get so bad initially it really was like small carpets it was so think. I did this multiple times.

--I went black/dark for several days on several different occasions. I realize you have corals and so that is a different variable. Unless you have a super strong attachment/tons of money sunk in them, I would say it is worth the risk. If the GHA doesn't get under control, it will make the tank unsightly, rob corals of nutrients, and overtake the tank. Corals can handle more than most think. I covered mine in black plastic garbage bag so no light at would get in.

--I used an emerald crab. I personally never had any issues, but that is just me. I had to buy more than one (you will not I said Great GHA Wars, plural) as mine would each all the GHA, then bleach out (turning ghostly white) and die from lack of food even though there was still some alage and it came back a few times. My LFS said they would gladly take back my emerald if I wanted to. It was less than $10 for me in Dallas (I think maybe even one of them I got for $8?) so it wasn't a big deal either way.

--I think it is always worth going the non-chemical route. It will take longer, but you will learn a ton more about your tank and earn a great sense of accomplishment. It does not always turn out positively, but there is a very tiny percentage of reefers who keep corals for decades anyways, so don't feel bad. I cannot tell you how many tanks I've seen on here (that look amazing and far better than mine I will add) that crash horrifically, get taken down out of boredom, etc. I'm in not way bagging on these people because I believe in a hobby to each their own. I just want to encourage you the success rate is not as high as you might think.

If you have a lot of algal growth, those tests will usually show up as 0 or quite low. As the algae grows, it sequesters those nutrients and keeps them from being read on the test. Do you top up and do water changes with RODI water?

Two factors that I've heard about Emeralds are the size and sex. Small females are supposedly more likely to eat algae. I had a large male, and he did eat algae, but he also took swipes at my fish with his big claws.

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