Probox Gearbox Problems
Karriem Drewery
I use Probox because of the cant inserts. This allows for a lot of changes and it allows me to use fins with built in cant, but not use the cant they have. I have a couple of short wide boards that I can use keel fins in and have no cant, then change back to other fins and have cant. I also like to change cant in the rear fins in a quad setup to go from zero to 4 degrees.
Too true. I think the main reason to use any fin system other than one of the FCS configurations or Futures (especially) is if somebody is getting custom fins or is making custom fins. And hardly any board builders are doing that, let alone the mainstay industry types.
This news from FS has me holding on tighter to the 3 rail boxes I still have left, since I have had to route out one box after this occurred, when I ran someone down who had the temerity to drop in on me, and I will keep this board until I can no longer surf.
I am considering making a jig to precisely drill and tap the existing proboxes and inserts for more grub screws to spread their load across more of the fin and finbox. Not sure if i would have gone with this system had I been aware of this potential weakness beforehand.
I do like the adjustability, but honestly I am sticking most fins in the 8 degree inserts, and fins all the way back, and now modifying fins to overhang the back of the box further and extending the tab thus using the full receptacle for the fin base.
I was going to design and build something like the Kreg pocket screw jig for drilling new grub screw holes through the probox and inserts, and then precisely tapping these holes for grub screws, perhaps of smaller diameter than the standard. I have sucesfully cast threads around fine thread small metric SS screws in epoxy, but there is no wiggle room and cross threading the screws is too easy and stripping the fine threads using too much torque was also too easy. But the 10-24 grub screw threads are coarse and much further apart in comparison to m4.
The probox center fin box grub screws are weirdly angled, pressing into the middle of the fin tab at more of a 45 degree angle. It could have been designed so there would be more material between tab recess and grub screw for greater strength, but was not. Custom fins for center probox need the grub screw Receptacle flat be up higher on the fin tab.
I was always nervous about the amount of material left over the grub screws after sanding. I never had one fail but I was always paranoid that it would because the walls of the box are thinner and have less threaded area in support of the grub screw - due to the use of the inserts. As it turns out, I almost never took advantage of the cant adjustments except when I was swapping fin setups entirely to go from a quad to a twinzer.
One can actually submerge proboxes slightly if they razor the tabs a bit so the box sits deeper in the board as resin cures. Then capping them less cloth need be sanded off to get it flush, then the inserts sit a bit recessed. Hard to get the cloth over the area between grub screw hole and insert though for adding strength to that area.
My Quad boxes which I either did not route deep enough or sanded the bottoms of the probox a smidge or both, got not only the lead weights, but a wood bar across both and then bricks for even more weight, as I could see more resin bulge out the sides with more downward pressure. Dry, I could not see if the box tabs were flush on the lam, but the resin bulging out the sides with more downward pressure indicated I needed to compress the 6 oz or 7.5 oz football patches I used in the routed hole under the Probox.
If I ever make another board with multifins, I Would go probably go for gearbox, over futures or fcs, assuming I could not get probox anymore and keep having issues with the grub screw getting ripped out.
A quick update: I got my shipment from FS, and it turned out they did have some white rail boxes in, but only with blue 0 degree inserts. I went through my entire probox related stuff and found that I have an overabundance of blue inserts, and a shortage of black.
If you drive an automatic and your car appears to be struggling to change gear, park your car and check underneath for leaking red automatic transmission fluid. If oil levels are very low it may have started to burn so it may be brown or black.You can also have problems selecting gear if your manual gearbox oil is low. You should top up the oil and get to a garage quickly, or call us for instant breakdown cover and we can help you immediately.
If you drive an automatic, you might notice the car will stay in a low gear for too long, and if you drive a manual, you may notice a delay between new gear selection and an increase in revs. The vehicle may also accelerate at a slower rate than the increased revs suggest.
A rumbling gearbox while neutral is engaged usually means your transmission fluid has broken down and needs replacing. In some cases this can signify bigger, more serious problems, so it makes sense to get professional help.
If transmission fluid burns, the gearbox will not be getting the lubrication it needs and friction will generate heat within the gearing cogs. Burning smells coming from the engine should be a serious cause for concern and could result in you becoming stranded on the roadside. Before that happens to you, read our ultimate guide to breakdown cover.
Trouble getting the car into gear or feeling resistance while shifting is a clear sign of gearbox trouble. This may be caused by incorrect or low transmission fluid, blocked filters, faulty sensors or a failing solenoid.
Check there is sufficient gearbox oil or transmission fluid and that it is in good condition. Discoloured or foul-smelling transmission fluid could indicate internal damage or contamination. It may be more than a simple top up job as the cause of the contamination may come back to haunt you!
A failing gearbox can lead to increased fuel consumption due to inefficient power transfer so keep an eye on how many miles you are getting to the gallon. You may put off the trip to the garage to have your gearbox checked out by a professional but you will be shelling out on buying extra fuel and it may cost you more in the long run.
Help is on hand 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, and we can arrange roadside recovery or a reliable home repair service, whether your gearbox lets you down in the UK, Europe or further afield. Call 0344 381 9959 for a quote.
Toyota has the most reliable Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) which makes the brand the best choice for smooth acceleration and improved fuel economy. Still, many Toyota owner experiences some issue with their CVT gearbox that needs attention.
CVT gearbox comes with a simpler design and fewer components than the other type of transmission. Whether you have a Toyota with CVT gearbox or planning to own one, you should be aware of these CVT transmission problems:
If the transmission overheats due to driving continuously for a long time, cool off the CVT transmission, and then drive the car. But if it happens due to a complex issue, bring the car to a service center for repairing or replacing the transmission.
If you notice red fluid leaking out of your Toyota car and smell the sweet odor, there might be a problem with the transmission fluid. Contaminated transmission fluid can also causes CVT transmission problem and other issues like car shaking, jumping, lurching, and surging.
A faulty CVT transmission fluid makes a strange sound like clunking, whining, and rattling during driving the car or even in neutral mode. This symptom indicates that the transmission components are worn out or there is insufficient fluid in the transmission.
In this case, you should call an expert mechanic as it requires a deep diagnosis. The wired sound of car may come from bad suspension, faulty wheel bearings, or a damaged braking system. So you may either need to top up the transmission fluid or replace the worn or damaged components.
The Toyota CVT transmission is quite expensive compared to a conventional automatic transmission. So you may have to spend around $6500 including labor costs to replace your faulty CVT transmission with a new one.
On average, the Toyota CVT transmission lasts around 120,000 miles. After that, you can either replace the transmission and use it for another 40,000 miles with various problems or replace it with a new one.
In rare cases, some Toyota CVT transmissions last up to 160,000 miles without showing any problems. The longevity of a Toyota CVT transmission depends on lots of factors including your driving skill, maintenance, and the oil type.
You can avoid most Toyota CVT transmission problems simply by keeping the transmission fluid level up, particularly during long driving. Below are some tips to prolong the longevity of Toyota CVT transmission:
Toyota CVT transmissions are extremely dependable due to the smoother acceleration and improved fuel efficiency. Even Toyota manufactures their transmission maintaining the standard strictly for impressive fuel economy and long-lasting service.
Toyota is still working to eliminate the problems with CVT transmission and improve its performance. However, you can avoid any difficulty with the existing one by maintaining the transmission properly, driving safely and avoiding towing heavy trailers. Before going out for long driving, make sure the engines has enough fluid, and if the engine becomes hot, cool it first.
Howwedrive.com is automotive blog and our experienced car mechanic share their knowledge to the readers. We share automotive information, engine maintenance guides and car driving technic to keep your vehicles fit.
As we already mentioned, both automatic and manual cars use a form of gearbox fluid to serve their way of operation. However, the two types of cars show different signs when needing transmission fluid. Here are some of the ways your manual ride will act when it needs to be checked by a gearbox specialist.
People think that the springs return the clutch into its normal position after you press the pedal. In fact, low transmission fluid levels will halt its moves and your clutch may even get stuck in an abnormal position.
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