A perfume may be defined as any mixture of pleasantly odorous substances. Originally all the products used in perfumery were of natural origin. The finest modern perfumes are neither wholly synthetic nor yet completely natural. The demand is increasing day by day due to increase in the standard of living. The demand will further increase as there is good export potential as well local consumption.
A perfumery compound is not a single material of clearly defined properties, but rather a mixture of individual chemicals, each behaving according to its own unique attributes. Characterizing these chemicals separately, and then combining their effects, allows the behavior of the complete perfume composition in diverse media to be understood. Important properties of fragrance chemicals include volatility, polarity, surface activity and stability. Considering the fact that perfume raw materials are themselves quite often complex mixtures of synthetic or natural (e.g. essential oils) organic compounds, the determination of the composition of an unknown perfume, the so called perfume-formulation process, is not an easy task.
If a compound is to serve as a synthetic perfumery compound it has to comply with three essential requirements and failure of any of these requirements will prevent it being a useful synthetic perfumery compound.
Most of the thousands or millions of low molecular weight aliphatic compounds have an odour but, despite this, very few of them are useful as synthetic perfumes since very few have the required combination of useful odour characteristics (especially when blended), stability to compositions in which they can be used (e.g. soaps), and low cost.
There is a continuing demand for new synthetic perfumery compounds, especially compounds that are easy to make economically and that have perfumery properties that render them very valuable for use in a wide range of perfumery compositions.
Indian fragrance industry has a promising future with the Indian FMCG market expected to grow at 12-15% for next 5 years and also with the rise disposable income, the per capita consumption of various personal care products is expected to grow significantly.
The global perfume market has been forecast to reach a value of approximately US$45.6 billion by 2018, driven primarily by growth expected in the underpenetrated emerging markets and innovative product launches.
The market is set to benefit from the growing trend towards consumer urbanization, higher spending propensity and the heightened importance on personal appearance and grooming. In addition, increased demand for youth-oriented, floral and exotic fragrances and celebrity perfumes will set the pace for rapid market expansion.
Increasing usage of perfumes among the young population, increasing online retail penetration, product push strategy by key global players, availability of perfumes in different price ranges, and increasing consumer spending on personal and beauty care products are major factors expected to drive the growth of the global perfumes market over the forecast period. However, availability of counterfeit products and use of harmful chemical ingredients are some of the factors expected to hamper the growth of the global perfumes market over the forecast period.
The global perfumes market is witnessing a growing trend of customized perfumes and the use of renewable ingredients in perfume manufacturing. Global perfume manufacturers are also venturing into the production of microbial based natural perfumes to cater to the increasing health awareness among consumers.
We call bases (not to be confused with pyramid base notes) our complex fragrances usually developed to mimic or reinterpret a single note, inspired by nature or fantasy. Great for adding complexity / originality to perfume creations but can also be used alone.
After purchasing, you will be able to access the interactive formula page anytime or download a PDF file. Our customizable formula system shows every material with complete information (CAS, family, odor description, strength, allergens.. and many more), IFRA compliance, graphs and suggestions for replacements. You can customize the total amount and concentration, the formula is automatically recalculated.
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Types of PerfumeThe difference between a perfume, cologne and splash is the ratio of water and alcohol to the fragrance. The following is a chart that illustrates the ratios. It has become virtually impossible to acquire pure grain alcohol for making perfumes. As a substitute for alcohol try to buy the strongest strength Vodka that you can find. Do not ever substitute the alcohol with the pharmacy variety called isopropyl alcohol.
Solid PerfumeSolid perfumes are also pleasant to use and easy to make. A basic formula would use 80% of your favorite light oil, 13% beeswax and 7% of your fragrance. Melt wax with oil, let cool, add fragrance, blend well and pour into container. Lip balm containers make excellent containers for this. If your results are too hard, add more oil or less beeswax; to soft, add less oil or more beeswax; too strong, add less fragrance. As always I offer suggestions and a place to start.
How to add Fragrance to your ProductsAdding your fragrance to a product can be quite challenging. There are a many reactions which may appear and change the thickness and look of your product. Fragrances are primarily oily compounds and many formulas are water based. When the fragrance is incompatible with a water base formula a non-ionic solubilizing surfactant such as Polysorbate 20 or 80 may be used. The fragrance is first mixed into the surfactant before adding it to the final batch. The amount of solubilizer needed will vary from fragrance to fragrance. A good starting point is to mix three to four times the amount of solubilizer to fragrance. Since fragrance makes up such a small amount of the total formula it may seem surprising that they can have such an impact on the thickness of a product-especially in shampoos and surfactant cleaning agents. It may make them thinner or it may make them thicker. In shampoos and body washes one way to deal with the problem may be to adjust the final viscosity by adding salt to the formula after the fragrance has been added. Another solution is to make up a batch of non-fragranced base and test your fragrances on small amounts at a time. This is trial and error and cannot be anticipated until the products are put together unless you are a highly experienced cosmetic chemist or perfumer. Fragrances may affect the appearance of your product. Because they are oil based they may make clear gels and formulas hazy. They may also make an emulsion separate, go grainy, or even pearl over time. Fragrances may also make the formula turn yellow. For this reason testing your products stability is highly recommended before marketing your products. Fragrances are typically added at the end of the formulation process. Adding them early on when the product may be warm will have negative consequences. The more volatile components of the fragrance will evaporate off when the heat is added. Ultimately the fragrance will not smell as you expected it would. If heating is not required the fragrance should be added to the oil phase of your formula. Often times the same fragrance may be added to a full line of different products. A fragrance used in a shampoo may not smell the same as the same fragrance used in a cream. One solution may be to up the fragrance level in the products to cover variations in the base odor. One must be careful to not overdo this though as fragrance may also cause varying reactions when applied to the skin.
Is the Product Stable?Because fragrances are made up of organic compounds that contain many reactive groups one may have to perform stability testing on their products. Testing should include storage under conditions of high heat and intense lighting. The increased heat may drive potential reactions that may change the scent and color of a product. Exposure to light may turn a formula yellow or make it smell bad. One solution to problems of heat stability is to add an anti-oxidant to your products. Anti-oxidants selectively react with free radicals to neutralize their ability to react. One such anti-oxidant is Vitamin E. Depending on what type of plastic the product in contained in, it is possible for the fragrance to migrate into the plastic and change the odor of the formula. PET plastic is one plastic that may be used with fragrance. In cases where the fragrance is sensitive to light an opaque package should be used.
Industry WatchdogsMany of the regulatory requirements in the fragrance industry have been driven by
Europe. In both Europe and the
US there is currently no restriction on the amount or type of fragrance compound that may go into a personal care product. Naming individual fragrance ingredients has traditionally not been required because it would be impractical to list the 50 to 100 components in a fragrance blend. For people with sensitivities this is a problem. Recently the EU has made up three lists that have been incorporated into recent legislation. There is a list of 26 compounds reportedly found to cause allergic reaction. There is also a list of 36 fragrance materials recommended to be banned from cosmetics. If you are thinking that the natural essential oils equate to good, there are plenty of naturally derived compounds that have been shown to cause allergic reaction and are on the banned list. Very soon companies will be required to delete these compounds from their products.