Hiac Pods Manual
Jeremias Resendez
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The moving-on of my Wheelie Rally chassis left me without a large-wheeled runner and wheelies, but more painful was the exit of my Avante Black Special, especially as its custom paint (one of my most inspired works) went unappreciated by its new owner, whom I have not heard from since. The Comical Avante might not be either car, but in some way, it captures the spirit of each.
So, in the Comical Avante, I have a new-to-me chassis that promises to build up into a fun and reliable runner without the need to paint the shell, as well as a return of futuristic buggy styling and wheelies to my divided fleet of runners. A relatively-quick build and some running time may encourage me to finish my more complicated projects, too.
I do not know if this is a feature of the other Comical Buggy kits, but for a rookie like me, I found it enlightening. TG-10 axles and otherwise-unused wheel hexes are mentioned here as a means to widen the track, and a special gearbox plate plays a part in extending the wheelie bar.
The plan is to build the car stock, with ball bearings. The GF-01 chassis is one I have never built before, so I intend to go into some detail during this build thread to give my impressions on the mechanicals. My inexperience with it also means I should be satisfied with a relatively-unmodified build, to start.
It seems I do not have a waterproof ESC, as previously believed, but I do have servos and a new receiver that works with my Spektrum DX3C radio. Poignantly, the channel I used to bind the new receiver was the one I used for my Avante Black Special.
These are brand-new tweezers I am using. I have never seen anything this sharp! I kept fearing for my eyes whenever I used them, even if the precision they can afford me in future model-building projects can be much greater than whatever I had been using until this time. Safety glasses in the future, then!
My original plan of using metal-shielded units in the gearbox and rubber-shielded types everywhere else was ditched in favour of using whatever I could, wherever I could. I still found it sensible to use rubber-shielded ones for the differential outdrives:
Anyway, I felt better to mix up bearings between the front and rear outdrives instead of the front and rear large counter gears, so doing this with the outdrives meant I could fit identical bearing types into the gears, between each pair:
I am still four bearings short of completing the kit. As far as I can tell now, I need four more of the 1150s, and preferably rubber-sealed since they will be residing in the hubs. I would need six more to ensure all are rubber-sealed in these locations, since I now have two rubber-shielded types and two in metal.
With current events as they are, I paid the small fortune required by a local source, which also only stocked rubber-shielded 1150s. Hopefully, going local means they will arrive quickly! In the interim (and honestly, I am not sure I will have it up and running before the new bearings arrive), I would look at fitting ball bearings to the inside of each hub, and plastic bearings on the outsides.
Tamiya had the chassis halves on the D-parts tree, but then asks you to dig into the F-parts sprue for the bumper mount to help hold the chassis together. This goes on with four screws at the front, while seven secure the halves to each other, resulting in this:
Accompanying this motor was a slightly-battered but still-meshing 20-tooth pinion, to replace the stock 18-tooth one. I like having a little more top-end in my models, particularly on this wheelie chassis that would not appear to have much speed potential, if my WR-02 experience is to be believed. I mean, this thing will not be racing touring cars, but with long straights still foreseen for this model, I would like a bit of excitement at the prospect of winding it out.
The tuning guide and my anticipated running patterns would have suggested putting the suspension ball connectors in the outer holes, but I do want to experience the car in a stock form first. The mere presence of ball connectors instead of the more-familiar step screws for this step was something I noticed. It certainly feels like a step up in sophistication from the original WR-02, even if I appreciated the step screws from a serviceability perspective.
The knuckles are horizontally symmetrical, but the hub carriers are not. I found myself triple-checking to ensure I had the right orientation. There have been several occasions on other builds when I have either assembled the hub carriers the wrong way, or put the ball connectors on the wrong side of the knuckles. My last two (for now) rubber-shielded bearings went in here.
The ones closest to the camera are used in the front, with the all-silver ones going in the rear. Assuming the torque to be equal going to the front and rear wheels (on account of the vertically-symmetrical gearbox internals), could the front ones confer an advantage to running a steering pair of wheels? Perhaps this could be akin to running dog-bone shafts on one end and CV joints on the other.
This assembly shows surprisingly little slop, but the nature of the design will probably see it develop plenty more before long. There is a caution in the manual to avoid over-tightening the step screws in the suspension arms to avoid binding, though I never encountered this as a problem.
(While at odds with the car's objective as a fun and reliable runner, it would be interesting to see just how far one can take a GF-01CB in the context of performance and build quality, using - what else - the Avante as inspiration. There is a thread on that somewhere...)
There do seem to be more mounting options for the rear dampers, with three positions for the ball connector on each arm. It makes sense, if the fine-tuning of the rear suspension affects the total character of the car more than the front (for wheelies just as much, if not more, than actual traction).
The inclusion of extra step screws, ball connectors, and O-rings was quite welcome. However, there should only be two spare ball connectors in this picture, because I somehow omitted them from the rear damper tower! Still, as spare parts go, these were thoughtful.
The stand had previously been holding up my Lancia 037 4WD-H project. The dimensions of the platform work for that car, as well as many other 1:10 scale models, but it is too long in either direction to comfortably hold the GF-01CB without some form of suspension compression. In any case, it just had to hold dampers while their oil settled.
While they are oil dampers, they are not particularly high-quality types, with the piston and shaft as one piece and using black O-rings. It is more of an observation than a complaint, since the inclusion of oil dampers is most welcome for these dynamic short-wheelbase chassis.
I would have thought at least black lower eyelets and/or spacers would have made more of a visual impact, but the finished units do not give away much in appearance. It would have been fun, though, to evoke the visuals of a Hi-Cap damper with these plastic types!
The thick rear arms made securing the dampers to their ball connectors a tricky business for regular pliers. Wide-jaw types will have an easier go of it. Even the rear damper tower, with the battery holder integrated into the rear of the chassis, provided little consistent purchase for a pair of pliers.
The hole you see is where the axle slides in, to sit inside a recess on the other end. We are looking at the underside of the chassis. A 3 x 20 mm screw then prevents the shaft from falling out the bottom, entering through one side of the hole before threading into the plastic on the other side. Reading the manual, it was suggested that this screw acted more as a pinch/grub screw, but this solution is superior for retention. In the absence of the same space in the front of the chassis as in the WR-02, the GF-01 makes use of some interesting ideas.
I came to appreciate details like these, that both made a functioning chassis possible, and assembly that much easier. For example, this notch in the chassis to provide clearance for the steering linkage rod:
But with a strip of tape sticking to the reinforcement ribs of the battery door instead of a flat surface, I have doubts about how well the tape will hold. If the tape works in compression, though, pressing against the battery, perhaps adhesion is not an issue.
The piece that mounts the receiver and ESC to the chassis does not screw or click in, but relies on double-sided tape and two pegs with matching holes in the chassis. The pegs allow proper location of the part, while the tape holds it in place:
The instructions depict the Tamiya TEU-105BK ESC, which is slightly smaller than the TBLE-02S that was supplied in the kit. As such, I needed to ensure that proper clearances were maintained between the cables, chassis parts, and heat sink.
Why does everything mount like this? I believe that with the limited clearance under the Avante shell, or rather in the interest of allowing the Comical Avante to appear more Avante-like, the electronics are concentrated where the narrow canopy section of the body would be. This would be immediately behind the driver figure, in a space not much wider than that. This would allow for the low side-pods that are a characteristic of the Avante, to be retained for the Comical Avante.
I have mixed feelings about these on the Comical Avante. To me, the Avante was never an internal-combustion vehicle, unlike the Grasshopper or Frog which were representations of single-seater off-road buggies that raced with automotive engines. Even if it was to be, the carbon-fibre-pattern decals that cover the pipes makes little to no sense for me.
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