South Pacific Anchorages 2nd Ed
Niccoletta Stolsig
In the first half of 2010 we lived at Marina Coral & Hotel in Ensenada, Mexico, while we outfitted our boat for cruising. In the winter of 2010-11 we sailed down the Pacific coast of the Baja peninsula and explored the mainland coast as far south as Zihuatenejo and then went up into the Sea of Cortez.
In the winter of 2011-12 we sailed down from the Sea of Cortez as far south as the Guatemala border and made several trips inland in southern Mexico. In the winter of 2012-13 we cruised from the bottom of Mexico up to Puerto Vallarta and then across the Sea and up the Baja coast to San Diego.
It was cold up north (early November). We had kelp until Turtle Bay and fog in Bahia Santa Maria. We finally took off our foul weather gear during the day south of Bahia Santa Maria and were finally able to swim in Cabo (mid-November).
These are our blog posts from our adventures in Acapulco. Acapulco has great day-sailing in the bay and several nice anchorages around the edges of the bay. Our favorite anchorage was Puerto Marques.
These are our blog posts from our adventures in Huatulco. This area is AWESOME, as it has some 25 anchorages or so in a 10 mile stretch of coast. You can anchor in solitude in nature, anchor in a gorgeous bay ringed by resorts or anchor off a little harbor village. The snorkeling is superb. The water is 85 degrees in January. And there are tons of things to do off the boat, from eco-tourism to a day at a surf beach to inland trips to Oaxaca. We spent four months here all together, one month in the spring of 2012 and three months in the winter of 2012-13.
After spending nearly two years on the Pacific coast of Mexico with our sailboat, Groovy, we realized we had done very little REAL Mexico travel. So we ventured inland in southern Mexico during 2012-13. We left Groovy behind in anchorages and at marinas in Huatulco and Marina Chiapas (to see Southern Mexico) and Zihuatanejo and in Puerto Vallarta (to see Central Mexico). On these inland trips we discovered vibrant Spanish colonial cities that were full of color and life. Better yet, we found it easy to visit lots of thousand-year-old ruins dating from the days when the Zapotecs and Mayans ruled the land.
Regarding for dock equipment. We just changed to a new anchor chain that length 80 metres. (250 feet) The reason to change the chain is because the many of the anchorages we will stay at on our ocean journey are filled with coral that is sharp and very abrasive to the rope portion of our old anchor rode. So we have replaced with the heavy 400 pounds (181 kg) all chain rode.
This protocol was developed by Transport Canada in collaboration with the Chamber of Shipping of British Columbia, the Shipping Federation of Canada, the Pacific Pilotage Authority, the Vancouver Fraser Port Authority, and the Port of Nanaimo. It also takes into account comments provided by coastal communities about the impact of increased use of anchorages in their surrounding waters.
This protocol was introduced on February 8, 2018, to address the increased usage of anchorages, and ensure the balanced use of these sites across the region. The protocol applies to cargo vessels anchoring in the area of the Southern Gulf Islands, collectively referred to as the South Coast of B.C., and includes measures that vessels must follow in an effort to minimize disturbances, such as those caused by noise and light.
The protocol area extends from Race Rocks, Haro Strait, and Boundary Pass in the south to Gabriola Island in the north, and is bounded to the east and west by the Strait of Georgia and Vancouver Island.
The six anchorages at the Nanaimo Port, the five at Esquimalt (Royal Roads), and the Constance Bank anchorage, are not part of this protocol, so there is no change to existing procedures for requesting an anchorage at these locations.
Use of South Coast of B.C. anchorages will be tracked using data (for example, type of vessel, days at anchor) provided by the Vancouver Fraser Port Authority, the Nanaimo Port Authority, and the Pacific Pilotage Authority.
As this work proceeds, and as an interim measure to ensure that no one anchorage is overused, the Vancouver Fraser Port Authority is managing the assignment of anchorage locations along the south coast of B.C. This a change from previous practices, where anchorages are selected by Masters of vessels in consultation with a coast pilot, without considering equitable rotation through suitable anchorage locations.
The Vancouver Fraser Port Authority will assign anchorages as equitably as possible, subject to individual anchorage size restrictions, using a computerized queuing system that takes into account anchorage usage over the previous 30 days. The objective is to balance the usage, so that no single anchorage is in constant use and ensuring an equitable rotation of use through all suitable anchorages.
Much like spacious, deep anchorages, such gayeties became a thing of our past. In certain marinas along the way (Charleston and St. Augustine come to mind), the currents are so swift and powerful, the dockmaster will not allow you to come in when it is not slack tide. They accomplish this by not telling you your slip number until close to slack tide to ensure you make a safe entry. Leaving at slack tide is also highly encouraged, but with help freely offered from one, if not two, dockhands upon both entry and exit. And, their precautions proved sound, particularly in Charleston, where the currents run 90-degrees to the slips, swift as a river, and are powerful enough to push boats around like toys.
Given the crowded anchorages, the wicked currents and challenging inlets, and the occasional boat-to-boat contacts, would we cruise the east coast again? The answer is absolutely! In fact, we will be doing it this very summer as we make our way, this time, up the east coast to the northeast area (New York or Rhode Island perhaps) for hurricane season. Phillip and I were awed and enamored by the history and culture we experienced all along the east coast.
We ate too much. We drank too much. We walked blisters into our feet. We went through two pairs of flip-flops each. We dinghied down canals, under bridges, and up to public parks and tied to trees. And, we would do it all over again. Every stop was new, which brought its own challenges and unknowns, but also its own fresh feeling of exploration. Local intel proved invaluable, and necessary just about everywhere. It was fun meeting new fellow cruisers, making friends, and getting that intel and then turning around and passing it onto the next incoming newcomer. These anchorages and cities are well-cruised by many and have a wealth of experiences and new adventures to offer.
In just seven days the explorers painstakingly surveyed and charted the shoreline for the first time in recorded history. In that short week they explored most of southern Puget Sound. It was a remarkable feat considering that there were none of the navigational aids we have today: no charts, no channel markers, no buoys to warn of potential shoals and rocks, or tide and current tables to assist them; nothing to go on except their own innate sense of the sea, wind and weather.
At the southeast end of Colvos Passage is Gig Harbor, with an absolutely delightful seaside village surrounding the small harbour. The entrance to this very well protected harbour is narrow and shallow with a small lighthouse on the spit on the eastern side marking the entrance. The preferred passage is slightly to port of centre as you enter. But the best advice is to keep an eye on the depthsounder as this can be dicey at low tide on a busy summer weekend with all sizes of large and small craft entering and leaving at the same time. Inside, the harbour opens up and good anchoring in 20 to 35 feet of water over a sticky bottom can be found throughout, with the exception of the very northern portion.
There is good depth throughout the middle of the harbour. Good holding can be had at the head of the harbour in 20 to 30 feet of water over a sand and mud bottom. The head of the bay is protected from most winds. The south shore shoals so watch your swing.
Port Madison is a one-mile-long inlet at the north end of Bainbridge Island, making a pleasant and protected spot to set the hook. The inlet was named after U.S. President James Madison and his wife, noted pastry chef Dolly Madison. The shoreline is a blend of conifers and sprawling waterfront homes. Although the majority of the waterfront is all privately owned, many of the estates are as much fun to ogle as is the natural scenery. Good anchorage may be found just inside the entrance in a bight on the southeast side, and the head of the bay where it widens into what is locally known as Hidden Cove.
The 2nd edition of Best Anchorages of the Inside Passage covers cruising areas from Victoria to Bella Bella and has been expanded to include the Central Coast waters up to Fitz Hugh Sound, Rivers Inlet, Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy and Queens Sound. The new edition also contains updates to its comprehensive coverage of the Gulf Islands, the Sunshine Coast and Desolation Sound. The anchorages around Johnstone Strait, Blackfish Sound and Broughton Archipelago have also been updated. Includes best beaches, hiking trails, history and native culture, anchoring tips, flora and wildlife, and much more.
An exciting new chapter on Fitz Hugh Sound has been added to the book that will appeal to those wanting to explore north of Cape Caution. Fitz Hugh Sound is becoming one of the most-discussed destinations for boaters of the Pacific Northwest. The reasons are several, including great anchorages, stunning beaches, a truly inspiring range of wildlife including several species of whales, and the serenity and peace that comes with its remoteness.
Authors William Kelly and former Pacific Yachting columnist Anne Vipond wrote their book on these anchorages after more than 30 years of cruising the Inside Passage. Their boating travels have extended beyond the Inside Passage to Prince William Sound and Kodiak Island in Alaska.
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