I travelled around China with my Dad, which was incredible. Despite the extreme July temperatures we faced, we kept up with each other and were definitely on the same page when it came to deciding where to go and what to do.
Top tip: Your passport needs to be in good condition in order to apply for visa. Mine had water damage from 5 years prior, and was rejected. Luckily, I had enough time to apply for another one!
There are a large number of international airports in China, with many offering direct flights to the UK. However, for tourism purposes, it makes most sense to land into Beijing Airport (PEK) which is the capital of China. Alternatively, you could land into Shanghai Pudong Airport (PVG).
After making the above mistake, we chose to arrange the rest of our train tickets at the train station the day before. Some of the train stations in China are massive, particularly Beijing and Shanghai. So we found this to be a great way to familiarise ourselves with the station beforehand and without bags.
The subway is an extremely efficient way to get around, and it nearly always has the station name translated into English. Subway trains are modern, clean and fast and easy to navigate for first time visitors.
We used the subway extensively in Beijing and Shanghai and found it to be excellent. And despite the sheer number of people using it, they manage to scan every bag and every person before you head underground on the escalator. Very impressive!
Generally, the best times to visit are during the transition seasons of spring (April and May) and autumn (September to October). During these months, the temperatures are warm but comfortable. Best of all, the crowds are lower!
A key time to avoid visiting is during the Chinese New Year, which depending on the lunar calendar, tends to fall in January or February each year. Lasting around 10 days, this is a major holiday period for Chinese people and everywhere gets seriously busy.
We found a good mix of international and Chinese restaurants all over China. In some more rural places, such as Zhangjiajie, there was a short street of restaurants, so we picked one and hoped for the best. In other places, such as Chengdu or the other big cities, there is a great variety of restaurants.
Yangshuo, the penultimate place in my China itinerary is famous for mangos during the summer months. This charming town is packed with smoothie stands, so you can enjoy the most fresh and delicious mango drinks all day long.
The official language of China is Mandarin, which differs to Hong Kong, where the main language is Cantonese. There are also hundreds of dialects throughout the country. We quickly found out that actually, speaking English is quite uncommon, even in the big cities. In more rural areas such as Zhangjiajie, it was rare.
Overall, I would say China is the most challenging place I have travelled around. With so little written in English, and often little help from locals, there were times we spent totally lost and wandering around.
In terms of the Chinese people, it depended where we were as to our interactions. At a colourful night fair in Yangshuo, a local family thrust their baby into my arms and crowded round me for a photo and were so friendly, despite the language barrier.
On the other hand, we had some wonderful experiences where despite the total language barrier, a train station steward patiently helped us when we had got on the train to the wrong Suzhou. He allowed me to type into Google Translate to ask questions and responded back by typing in my phone. Another man at an airport hotel which was fully booked in Ghangzou arranged for a friend to pick us up and take us to a hotel in town, for a very good rate.
Joining a tour to explore China can be a great idea, especially to help you navigate the very tricky language barrier. With a local guide leading the way, it can be a great way to visit all of the top places without getting too lost or stuck along the way. You also have the added benefit of a wealth of local knowledge, particularly around the dinner table or at cultural attractions.
We travelled independently, which made for an exhausting but rewarding experience. It allowed us to also make last minute changes, such as deciding to forfeit a night in Guilin and add an extra night in Yangshuo, as it was so amazing. We were also able to add in down time when we needed to, or upgrade hotels when we urgently needed an extra good shower.
Alternatively, you could travel around China independently, and joining guided tours to complement this. For example, the Great Wall of China is actually a bit of a headache to get to on local bus and taxi, and this is a great example of an activity best done as a tour.
Visiting the Forbidden City was a great crash course in Chinese history, as this imperial palace has served as the home of Chinese emperors for almost 500 years. The whole complex is vast, but due to the extreme July heat and some impending jetlag, we managed to explore the highlights of the Forbidden City in a full afternoon.
Opposite the Forbidden City is the famous Tiananmen Square. Take in the huge Mao Portrait over the entrance to the Forbidden City. This has been the setting for many protests, particularly those in 1989 pushing for democracy. There is no entry fee here, and you may find yourself here several times throughout your visit, as it is located above a central and convenient subway station.
We loved this market, although we stumbled upon it by accident as our hotel was very close. Turns out, this is one of the best places to go to in the evening in Beijing. The street food section is an curious array of insects and seafood on sticks, but there are some more normal options too, such as delicious fruit salads.
This neighbourhood is home to the burgeoning artistic scene in Beijing, and there are dozens of world-class art galleries here to peruse. Located within a former factory complex, this area has been transformed to house exhibitions from local artists, to world-famous artists.
For those looking for great value, but authentic stays, one option is to stay in a small guesthouse along one of the narrow alleys of a hutong. My suggestion for this would be The Orchid, in the local hutong of Gulou, where a double room starts from 91 (USD$111).
The Hotel Eclat offers amazing bang for buck, with 20 of the rooms offering private pools in the heart of the city. The rooms are also themed so book ahead for greater variety to choose from. Rooms start from 147 per night (USD$180).
If you want to see the Great Wall with far less crowds, the sections you should consider are Jiankou, Simatai, Gubeikou, Jinshanling and Huanghuacheng. These take a little longer to get to, but a return trip can still be done in a day. You could also take a day trip to these sections:
When we finally got to Huairou, we had a far harder job getting a taxi than we expected. We actually found a local hospital and waited to jump into a taxi there instead, but once in it, our taxi driver really struggled to understand where we wanted to go. Despite us pointing to a very clear picture of the Great Wall of China (that was displayed in his taxi..).
I would recommend a full day and night in Suzhou, so you can explore this beautiful town in light and darkness, when all the red lanterns are lit up. You could alternatively visit as a day trip from Shanghai, but it means coming back on yourself if you travelled there from Beijing.
People say you either love or hate Shanghai. I really liked it and preferred it to Beijing. Although I enjoyed my time in Beijing, and particularly all the sightseeing, I did find the city felt rather grey.
The Bund is a wide promenade along the river, where visitors can experience stunning panoramic views of the city. On one side is the futuristic skyline, comprising some of the tallest skyscrapers in the world and the dazzling Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Did you know, you can go to the top of this awesome building? Buy your skip-the-line ticket to its viewing platform here.
In my opinion, one of the most beautiful streets is Wukang Lu, which has cafes with plentiful outdoor seating and is very charming. Other highlights of the FCC include Fuxing Lu, which is full of cool art galleries or Wulumuqi Road, which has some awesome antique stores.
Some of the gardens are like finding an oasis in the heart of the city, and one of the best is Yu Yuan (Happiness Garden). Another highlight is visiting the serene Jade Buddha Temple, surrounded by peaceful Chinese Gardens.
If your budget can stretch to a stay in one of the hotels lining the Bund, then this certainly would make for an incredible stay. Not only is this close to many of the main attractions in Shanghai, but is an amazing opportunity to sleep in one of the beautiful buildings.
We stayed in the InterContinental Shanghai Pudong, which is an amazing luxury stay near the main train station, which is also an excellent location. Make sure to read my review of the Intercontinental Shanghai Pudong here.
Affordable: Shanghai Fish Inn East Nanjing Road. At around 11 per night, this is a great value stay, in an excellent location with some very good reviews. Also, the Bund Riverside View also has some great reviews (from 26 per night).
Our days in Zhangjiajie were some of our most challenging, as it was very hard to know where to go and how to do it. For example, the maps have very little English on them, and a lot of the routes are inaccurate. There are also shuttle buses to jump on, but these were not clear which route they were going to and as mentioned, few people were keen to stop and help us. The queuing system was also hectic with a bit of pushing and shoving.
In the end, we spent two full days hiking in Zhangjiajie. We chose to start early and make long full days of exploring. At the entrance were always huge Chinese groups waiting to start walking and they always had a guide with a flag on a stick and a huge speakerphone. We just felt we had to get away from the sheer number of people and noise quite quickly. It would take just 10 minutes to be in complete peace and quiet. Honestly, despite trying to use the map/incorrect signage and work out the shuttle bus systems, we never really knew where we were going.
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