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Aleck Coulombe
When I was nineteen, following a life-changing injury, I threw all of my shit into a battered pack and caught a one way flight to Delhi, I had just $2700 to my name and was able to make this last over a year whilst backpacking in India.
So yes, the real India can be a real challenge but, for adventurous backpackers, India offers some of the most incredible exploring in all of Asia. If it gets under your skin, you will keep on coming back time and time again. Visiting the beautiful places in India is a task worth taking on.
After getting your bearings and hopefully avoiding getting scammed in New Delhi, head on over to Varanasi for the spiritual experience of a lifetime. After a quick stop in off beat Khajuraho, settle into Agra to see the Taj Mahal, AKA the most famous landmark in India.
You final two stops will bring you back to the tourist trail, but rest assured that it will be worth it. The back waters of Alleppey are best seen from the local boats, and even popular Varkala (which can be reached by train or bus) has plenty of hidden spots to get off the beaten track in.
These days Manali is a commercialized mess, so I highly encourage you to get to the more authentic Vashshist as SOON as possible. The hippie vibes are only beginning amigos, as the mountainous roads will then lead you to Kasol, the main hub of the iconic Parvati Valley.
Delhi is probably my least favourite city in the whole world and whilst it may have some hidden charms, I have yet to find them despite visiting the city over half a dozen times. The traffic is crazy, and driving my multicolored rickshaw through the streets was a truly nutty and hair-raising experience.
Make your way to the river and catch a sunset boat ride on the Ganges, the most holy river in Hinduism. On the way, make sure to pick up one of the best lassis in all of India at Blue Lassi in the market.
From Varanasi you should be able to catch a train directly to Khajuraho. As always you should book your ticket in advance and try to get a night train to save on accommodation. This area is famous for its hilariously erotic temples. Hire bicycles as some of the main sights are spread out and it is a great way to explore.
The second is the Taj Mahal, it costs a whopping 1100RS to get in and this will probably continue to rise for foreign visitors in the coming years. Finally, 26km outside of Agra is the ruins of Fatehpur Sikri which is interesting if you have time but is unfortunately filled with very pushy touts.
My second least favourite city in India is undoubtedly Jaipur. You can however mitigate its horror by choosing carefully where to stay in Jaipur. Try to spend just a day here if you can as the city is stressful and ugly. Ajmer Palace, 12km outside of the city, is stunning and worth the trip.
What a truly wonderful place. I lingered here for almost a month when I was on my first backpacking trip to India at the age of nineteen. There are wonderful hostels in Udaipur, great restaurants, interesting cycle rides, captivating lakes and atmospheric temples.
On day 2, take a taxi (1200RS) if in a group or a bus (150RS each way) if you are on your own to the Ajanta Caves; a collection of thirty Buddhist monasteries carved into a shoehorn of rock sitting above a lush green forest. On day 3, get the heck out of dodge (there really is fuck all to do in Aurangabad) and catch a train (6 hours) to Nashik.
The ghats, stone steps leading down to the river for washing and praying, in Nashik are truly mesmerising and, unlike in Varanasi, there are no pushy touts looking to make a quick rupee from backpackers.
From Nashik you can arrange a sleeper bus towards Goa, or if you are feeling adventurous catch a train to Gulbarga and then onwards to Bidar and Bijapur, you may have to go via Bombay. I couchsurfed in Nashik.
Palaces, tombs, gateways, temples and minarets, all carved from solid basalt and covered in twisting vines and flowers. The architecture in Bijapur is simply stunning and it is widely renowned as one of the most important historical cities in India, despite this it attracts very few backpackers and you are likely to have it all to yourself.
Probably the most famous place in all of India and a magnet for hippie wannabes and all kinds of backpacker assholes, traveling in Goa is a complicated, chilled, paradoxical place that is well worth a visit no matter what you hear.
If you shop around you can still get a beach front shack for around 500 rps though prices spike between Christmas and February. There are also a number of trendy eco-resorts in Goa that are worth checking out!
That said, Arambol itself has numerous happenings every single night until around 10:30pm (midnight if its away from then main drag). I recommend attending Ecstatic Dance at the Source and seeing what weird and wonderful stuff is going on at Magic Cafe and the Love Temple.
However, people come here for the quiet, secluded beaches which are 6km and 150rps in a Tuk Tuk away. My personal nickname for Om Beach is Jaffa Beach as its firmly established on the Hummus trail. By day, play volleyball, explore the temples in the old town or fish upon the high seas. By night, discover the real reason that many hippies have moved to Gokarna; a better supply of mushrooms and weed.
Famous since the Beatles first rocked up here and got stuck into an Ashram, Rishikesh is a popular stop with yogis backpacking India and is well worth checking out, even if you are not into yoga. If you are into yoga, Rishikesh is the perfect place to take a course or earn your yoga certification.
The Golden Temple, the most sacred temple in the Sikh faith, is simply breathtaking. Sikhism welcomes all and you can stay for free in the golden temple dorms. Wander around until someone shows you where to go.
We stayed at one of these for 250RS a night, though prices will likely be higher these days thanks to inflation. McLeod is pretty small and a few days here should be more than enough unless you are doing yoga or choose to get involved with a charity.
There are several projects for volunteers here working with Tibetan refugees, be sure to check out Tibetan World where you can sign up for hour long language exchanges with the Tibetan monks, who are always keen to improve their English. And to leave you with a cheap food tip, The Black Tent Cafe does a fantastic Tibetan breakfast.
Lower Bhagsu is pretty modernised and my advice is to keep going up the hill. Bhagsu is an Indian backpackers paradise with hand made crafts, tie-dye clothing and Didgeridoo lessons at every turn. When travelling through India the first time, I fell in love with Bhagsu.
Bring a torch as finding you way back after dark could be a challenge on a night with no moon! There are some great treks that can be done from Bhagsu without a guide; the most popular is Triund which only takes about three or four hours and is manageable even for newbie trekkers.
Vashisht is roughly set across the valley opposite Old Manali and is kind of like its little brother. The small town is much quieter than Old Manali and therefore a fantastic place to stay if you want some peace and tranquility.
There is a hot spring at the top of town and daily religious processions where you can watch devout locals fall into a state of trance. The Rasta Cafe is a great place to hang out and is famed for its Special Lassis (be warned, they can be very strong).
It was an awful journey but, ultimately, was so worth it. You can fly to Leh but, well, the bus journey is a rite of passage when backpacking India so you should do it, the views will be stunning if there is no cloud cover. Remember to take Diamox with you to combat altitude sickness.
If you are taking a trip to Parvati Valley, chances are you will pass through Kasol, which is a popular backpacking destination for good reason. The town of Kasol can be reached by a five to six hour bus ride from Manali for 200RS.
Kasol has soared in popularity in the last few years and is now rivalling Manali as the backpacker hub for Himachal Pradesh. Depending on how long you spent in Manali, it is definitely worth heading here for a few nights if you have the time.
Kasol itself is largely popular with Israeli travellers and you will see many a hippie wannabe, from all nationalities, clad head to toe in hilariously impractical gear they have bought from the many stores selling hippy dippy shit upon every corner.
There are many day-hikes and longer multi-day treks that can be attempted from around Kasol. For a full run down of chilled out places to visit in the area have a good look at the Kasol and Around guide by Drifter Planet.
If you fancy some trekking, there is the 6-day Markha Valley Trek in Hemis National Park (the largest national park in India), the 5 day Nubra Valley trek and the challenging Rumtse to Tso Moriri-dayer.
In Srinagar, the one must-try experience, in my opinion, is to explore the lake by shikara. The lake is truly gorgeous and a peaceful place to spend an afternoon exploring. From Srinagar, you can catch a bus down to Amritsar or fly to Delhi.
Bangalore is something of a boom town in India and has firmly established itself as the centre of the sub-continents mega tech industry. The city is something of a typical modern Indian city; unplanned, chaotic and ugly.
For a kick ass Mutton Biryani, check out the ever busy and beautifully basic Shivaji Military Hotel in Banashankari and for a classic South Indian breakfast of rice cakes head to Sree Krishna Kafe in Koramangala.
This is real exploring territory. It is easy to arrange a homestay once you reach the administrative capital of Madikeri. From Madikeri it is worth taking the hour long bus to Bylakuppe to visit a Tibetan colony.
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