Rca Viking Pro Firmware Download

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Chadwick Bosse

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Aug 4, 2024, 2:09:15 PM8/4/24

to koamorise

Ineed to fix the touch screen on my RCA tablets as it is not responding at all. I've tried going into recovery mode but it is not working. The only other solution I can think of is to download a copy of the recovery file to my micro SD card from online and once in recovery mode install using that option. Can anyone help and tell me where I can find this, or provide advice to fix my problem if it is something other than this?

I also have the same problem. It appears that the only firmware that might work is rca rct6303w87m7 android6.0-v05-v1.16.20-e04. That is what was listed on the tablet before it went down. I have tryed others but they will not work. I can not find this firmware anywhere, could anyone that has that firmware or can extract it from ther tablet please send it to me. The tablet will not boot or even go into the recovery screen, it is however reconized by my pc and in flash_tool.

I built two printers, both are very stable, rigid and accurate machines, and i could finally get one to print after battling with software issues on both machines the whole week

(since i'm using standard parts instead of custom made Pusa parts the MK3 uses.)

Viking and Spartan have a 320mm high build volume, only the Einsy, the magnetic board and the fans are from Prusa.

Everything else is made by me, including the flexible buildplate (currently blank flex steel, will add the PEI sheet when i have it working 100%

Standard Parts are from Amazon or Aliexpress.

3D Printed parts are from the MK2-X, the Haribo, the Zaribo and other projects from thingiverse, with about 30% scratch made by me.

Anyway, back on Topic.

With 1/32 microstepping, a 3:1 gear ratio and a 0.9 degree stepper, i'm now at about 1626 E steps for the E axis.

Way the fuck more than i wanted, but whatever.

If somehow this configuration can't keep up at 150mm/sec i'll switch to a 1.8 degree stepper. But most likely i'll tone down the microstepping once i figured my way around in the firmware.

I calibrated the extrusion real quick and printed a test cube.

I installed the newest MK3 software package and set a test cube with 0.15 layer height, 1 wall, no top/bottom/infill

Silver Prusa PLA, although this roll is only used for test prints since silver shows either no errors when the light is from the front, or all possible extrusion errors if the light is from above. Also this roll is more than 2 years old, perhaps it got some moisture. Will try some other filament shortly.

Viking and Spartan are not finished yet, im about 90% done with the hardware, and about 30% done with the software.

(Most of my problems are TMC2130 and with the motor endstops)

Will update on this and post the build when i figure out what's causing my endstop issues.

TL;DR: MK3 software has some extrusion issues, cannot get it away with completely different hardware.

Can i say for sure after only one print? I can, since i spent lots of time tweaking really everything on these machines.

(Build time was about 1 month/printer...)

I am both disheartened and happy to see your single wall cube results. Disheartened for you for building these and running into the same issue, but happy to see we can pretty likely rule out hardware being the cause. I will post these in the issue.

I will also explore loading stock Marlin onto this in the future, but not now.

Finally got one of them to print after i started this project two months ago. (also my wallet isn't happy, i could buy 4 or 5 MK3 kits for the cost of these two)

Sure thing, just shoot me a message with what you need. I still have that git branch on my machine, and I was able to rebase the 3.2.0-RC1 changes into it. Attached, if you're curious to try it out.

Just because it's getting closer to a wider release, but I do NOT want to attract extra attention to his project I'm not gonna say what it is outright, but @devilhunter and @Brigandier should at least know. (3.5:1 gear ratio)

@Devilhunter - This is the results I've had. With 3.5:1 I have virtually ZERO "morie" effect. I mean it's there... kinda... sometimes... I catch what I think is a glimpse of it. But it's "fleeting" I can never find it again easily, and I have NOT gotten a picture of it. (and this is LOOKING for it, with the light at correct angles, with the EVIL Prusa silver.

I'm not that worried, I have my slop below 0.05mm, and I can actually with a fair bit of force, put a 1mm pin, into a 1mm hole. a 1.05mm hole is perfect, and a 1.1mm hole is loose. That tells me my "slop" is somewhere around 0.025, and I'll credit that to the X and Y steppers, as that's the neighborhood of their precision.

@Brigandier has tested nearly turning off microstepping, and it still does it. (I think it was 8microsteps he tried) (and turned off the 256 nano-stepping stuff too)

So either the issue is still apparent with 8 microsteps... OR, there's a "torque" issue.

I found the Prusa silver AMPLIFIED the issue.

I also found that even at 240c, it really didn't "ooze".

(and when I say ooze, I don't mean moisture induced oozing, I mean, runny like water, totally molten, and you can pull spiderweb style strings off the nozzle for as long as you care to pull on it)

I think it should be fairly easy, since the Einsy from the MK3 was added to the 1.1.x-bugfix branch of Marlin already some time ago. Pretty sure a few people run it on their MK3's already. Probably a matter of downloading it and specifying the Einsy mainboard, compiling and flashing.

Thanks for the firmware, but it seems a lot of people who use this one have their nozzles dig into the bed during xyz calibration... ?

Gonna skip this one, but the commits to the 3.2 firmware sound very worthwhile. (even if they didn't implement Linear Advance 1.5 which fixes a lot of extruder issues)

You can see this in the first picture.

On the few bottom layers, i had stealth mode active, and the layers looked smooth and good.

I switched to normal mode about 4mm in height.

All layers printed with normal mode looked rough, and the ringing on the corners was a lot more than the ringing on the corners in stealth mode.

Halfway in i switched back to stealth mode, and all outer wall layers were smooth and shiny again, and the ringing on the corners is much less.

I can't show this with my crappy camera, but the outer layers printed with normal mode have a slightly rougher texture, and the outer layers printed with stealth are smooth and shiny.

It's like i can see the microstepping artefacts in the normal power layers, and they are about 2/3 less when i switch to stealth mode.

Thanks for the firmware, but it seems a lot of people who use this one have their nozzles dig into the bed during xyz calibration... ?

Gonna skip this one, but the commits to the 3.2 firmware sound very worthwhile. (even if they didn't implement Linear Advance 1.5 which fixes a lot of extruder issues)

The difference is speed or acceleration CAP in stealth mode. print slower if you want higher quality, it's just a basic rule that works 99% of the time except or extrusion issues of course ?

It looks like the speed and acceleration is the same in stealth mode and normal mode (unless you can show me where this is in the firmware), and it just switches the Trinamic SpreadCycle to StealthChop.

My Z couplers are moving from side to side even on straight lines. That means the Z axis is slightly moving up and down midprint. (My leadscrews are docked against the motor shaft in the Z couplers to minimize the effect of Z-Hop)

You probably cannot see this on your machines, since you are using integrated leadscrews, it's much harder to see there.

(The ones on the Z axis that connect the stock motor shafts with the standard threaded rods, Prusa only used these integrated without couplers)

The fact that the Z axis are moving up and down mid print could very well explain the layer lines.

Z axis moves slightly up = thinner looking layer

Z axis moves slightly down = layer gets squished

Wouldn't it make more sense to correct a Z angle skew on the first layer, and leave all other following layers without this skew correction?

That way the layers on top of the first one are as consistent as they can be, leaving only skew correction from the X and Y axis.