Wire Removal Footage Free PATCHED Download
Angeles Bartholomew
The area that is black is a hole you cut in the footage using masing so that a clean plate can be placed below the footage layer. This will eliminate about 40 frames of animation to fix that part of the footage.
If the camera is moving you will have to track the start and end points of the layer. If there is a lot of movement then you may have to motion stabilize the shot first to keep the wire in the same spot, then duplicate the layer, pre-compose and apply CC Simple Wire Removal to the pre-comp and put the motion back in the frame using a null and a simple expression. I will explain that in more detail later.
If CC Simple Wire Removal does not work well enough then the project becomes a lot more complicated. Duplicate the footage, then select the clone tool and start carefully cloning the wire out of the shot like you would do in Photoshop.
If the camera is moving then the best option is to open up the Motion Tracking workspace, Motion stabilize the footage so the wire does not move in the frame, then duplicate the footage, pre-compose the top duplicate, then open the pre-comp in the layer panel and use the clone tool to carefully remove the wire. You may be able to carefully sample just above or below the wire and paint it out with only a few strokes. Then you add a null, reveal the position property of the null, reveal the anchor point property of the stabilized footage, move the Current Time Indicator to the start of the timeline and then tie the Position property of the Null to the Anchor Point property of the stabilized footage by Alt/Option-click the position property and use the expression pickwhip to point to the Anchor Point of the stabilized footage. The last step is to select the footage and the pre-comp you used the clone tool on and parent them both to the null. This will restore the camera movement and line things up.
Hi, have you tried masking out the line (either using a thin mask or creating a black and white matte from a sliver of the problem area) then shifting another copy of the footage down/up a few pixels to cover the white line?
That does not mean adjust the masks every frame, but there is going to be a lot of work. When the roto is complete you have to start working on the far left part of the frame where the wires are in front of the legs of the three actors. You will have to carefully hand paint out the wires frame by frame. This will require a great deal of patience and time. Once the roto is done you can start working on the clean plate by exporting a PSD (Photoshop) file of the first frame and paint out all of the wires except where they pass in front of the three actors on the left side of the frame. Then all you have to do is drop that image below the rotoscoped and painted footage. That is the most efficient way I can think of right now to fix this shot in post. This shot is going to take a great deal of very careful hand painting to fix but most of the frame can be a single frame so that will save you a couple of days of hand cloning. In fact, you could probably use the Photoshop healing brush to paint out all of the wires that are in the black area of the screenshot.
Fortunately, there is a large part of the scene where nothing but the wires are moving. This will save you a lot of work. The second most labor-intensive part of the fix is Rotoscoping the pots falling off the table but fortunately, you only have to roto the pots that fall through the clean plate. I would start by setting up the composition like this:
Each layer is split up so you know which frames you actually need to work on. You can quickly reduce the number of frames that you work on by carefully examining the footage. This will greatly simplify the roto work and as you can see by looking at layer 3 you only have to hand paint out the wires on about half the frames at the far left.
The CT doc said it's possible that some of the continuing discomfort could be related to a metal allergy involving the sternal wires, but he said that a good portion of the pain could also be due to nerve damage, and that there was no guarantee that removing the sternal wires would eliminate all, or even any, of my ongoing sternal pain.\n
I have good days and bad days, but even on the good days, my scar is still very sensitive and I'm aware of it. Sometimes it feels like I'm getting mild electric shocks in my sternum, specifically in the areas where the wires are.\n
If it was up to me, I'd like to wait a few more months to see if the scar can heal more, but the problem with waiting is that I may not have insurance next year, so if I don't get the wires removed now, I may lose the ability to have them removed.\n
My family is strongly urging me to do the sternal wire procedure, and I've been leaning in that direction, but it would involve opening up the entire length of the scar, and an additional 2 months for that to heal again. Cosmetically my current scar is OK. Not great, but if I grow my chest hair out a bit, it's not really noticable at the beach unless you're looking for it. The cosmetic aspects are minor, but it is a factor. \n
I would suggest a referral to a different surgeon (if at all possible) for the wire removal and worry less about the time the incision will take to heal because this time around you won't have a healing bone behind it compromising your life.
A friend of mine had her sternal wiring removed; it's a simple outpatient procedure where she went in, they opened up her incision, clipped and removed the wires and actually took a little extra time stitching her back together so that she had a finer line for a scar. She was home the same day and pain free within days. (coincidentally, it was at the University of Texas, San Antonio)
The CT doc said it's possible that some of the continuing discomfort could be related to a metal allergy involving the sternal wires, but he said that a good portion of the pain could also be due to nerve damage, and that there was no guarantee that removing the sternal wires would eliminate all, or even any, of my ongoing sternal pain.
I have good days and bad days, but even on the good days, my scar is still very sensitive and I'm aware of it. Sometimes it feels like I'm getting mild electric shocks in my sternum, specifically in the areas where the wires are.
If it was up to me, I'd like to wait a few more months to see if the scar can heal more, but the problem with waiting is that I may not have insurance next year, so if I don't get the wires removed now, I may lose the ability to have them removed.
My family is strongly urging me to do the sternal wire procedure, and I've been leaning in that direction, but it would involve opening up the entire length of the scar, and an additional 2 months for that to heal again. Cosmetically my current scar is OK. Not great, but if I grow my chest hair out a bit, it's not really noticable at the beach unless you're looking for it. The cosmetic aspects are minor, but it is a factor.
Wire removal is a visual effects technique used to remove wires in films, where the wires are originally included as a safety precaution or to simulate flying in actors or miniatures. i can remove wire / rig from your film, also i can remove any unwanted object from video perfectly so your video will look more professional . see my work show reel so you can check my quality. before place order please first discuss about your project so we can set a delivery time and budget .
You can remove your Arlo Essential Video Doorbell (wired and wire-free configurations) from the wall mount without unscrewing anything or disconnecting any wires. To remove the doorbell from the wall, you need the release pin that came with your Arlo Essential Video Doorbell. You can also use a straightened paperclip or a similar object.
I have a video in which a wire is used to pull an object from the scene. I did a test which worked well, but the actual shoot didn't go so well, and I've tried several different methods to remove the wire without success.
At the time, a frame by frame edit in photoshop using healing tools seemed the only way to clean up the wire used. When I tried this however, you get a lot of artifacting that looks fine on one image but differs from frame to frame and creates a fuzzy blur as a video.
From there, you can quickly move along frame by frame and paint over a moving wire to clean it out of the shot. Occasionally there'll be a point that needs more attention but overall it seems the fastest and best way to do this.
Because my footage was tripod shot and was absolutely still, the walls and background didn't move, making it easy to brush out the wires. In a moving shot this could still be achieved by just offsetting the source of the brush.
A key to successfully removing elements from your scene is to make sure nothing crosses in front or behind them. Remember, this method of object removal involves being able to stack up duplicates of the same scene. If your Object crosses in front or behind something, you may end up removing elements you want to keep.
Mocha Pro's "Remove Module" has been used on thousands of films and television shows for object removals, stunt wire removals, and clean-ups. Mocha Pro supports both Adobe Premiere Pro and After Effects, as well as Avid, Nuke, HitFilm, Vegas Pro and Fusion.
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