I heard from some forums that it should be possible but that it sucks on 99% cases.Is the rpg maker wrong for when you try too make a zelda like figbht system that when you click the left mouse button your charackter instantly attacks? Can you actually change your combat in rpg maker or is there only this round based fight system? like an example could i change the fight system like in Undertale? thanks for answers
I'm on stage 3 of a rocket headed to Duna, and for some reason the navigation ball will only turn left and right. (The navigation ball is at some random angle too, so it's not like it's pure east/west.) Up and down doesn't do anything, and roll doesn't do anything. I think this just happened, because I feel like I would have noticed it on takeoff... but I'm not sure about that.
I personally don't like how the s10 turns on display from touching the screen or tilting it a certain way. Cool technology, but i'd rather stick to pressing the power button as my only option. Is there a way to disable all these functionalities so that the only possible way to turn on display is by pressing the power button? Couldn't find anything in display settings. Thank you
You already have part of the answer. You do need to edit logind.conf to make sure the laptop doesn't sleep when closing the lid. The second part is you need to set the backlight to turn off after a given amount of time. Edit your /etc/default/grub. Find the line GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT= and change it to GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT=consoleblank=600 or whatever timeout you like, in seconds. Don't forget to update-grub and reboot.
Hi there,
I have a Chromecast connected to my LG TV and use my Google Home and Google Nest Mini to turn it on without any problem. However when I ask either of my speakers to turn it off it doesn't do anything, unless the TV source is actually on HDMI1, which is the port in which the Chromecast is connected.
If the TV source is on the aerial, or if I am watching something on an app like Netflix or Amazon (which is most of the time) then the speaker says it is turning off the TV but nothing happens.
Does anyone know what might be causing this and how to resolve it? Obviously It defeats the purpose of the voice control if I have to use the remote control to switch the TV input to HDMI1 every time!
Thanks
Chris
If anyone else finds this thread in the future and has the same problem as me, I managed to solve it by disconnecting my Chromecast and simply using the functionality already built into the LG TV.
I set up the device from my Google Home app using the "Works with Google" option and then through LG ThinQ. There are videos and information on the LG website about the process you have to follow (and also videos on YouTube).
Happy to say I can now turn the TV off / on regardless of whether it is on the aerial, apps or HDMI!
Thanks,
Chris
Hi Cathal,
Thanks for your reply and suggested approach. I think I would probably just find it easier to use the TV remote control to turn the TV off rather than use two voice commands to first tell the TV to switch to HDMI and then a second to tell it to turn off.
What's frustrating is that I definitely used to be able to turn off the TV using a voice command regardless of whether the selected source was the aerial, an app or HDMI. So I know it's been possible to do it in the past, but a little while ago this simply stopped working for some reason.
So is it possible there's a setting that I just need to change to get it working again?
Thanks
Chris
Thanks for getting back to us. You may try to plug in the Chromecast into a different HDMI port on your TV and turn off/on the CEC on your TV. You may also contact your TV manufacturer for additional help.
Hi Jennifer,
Unfortunately switching the Chromecast to a different HDMI port didn't work. Neither did turning the CEC off and back on again.
I guess I will have to try getting in touch with LG as the manufacturer of the TV.
I always find it annoying when something works fine and then suddenly stops working!
Just chipping in my two cents. The instructions of the LG 25UM65 LED model states that "the monitor may flicker in an area where the temperature is low. This is normal."Excerpt from manual(This is also quoted in the manual for other similar models.)In my experience "Low temperature" means below 17 C in room temperature. These models also turn of the screen if flickering occurs, so you will only see flickering shortly before a black screen. Image may or may not reappear, without turning monitor off and on again. As the temperature rises both in the room and the monitor, the problem gradually goes away.
I am new to the Room Lighting app. How do I setup a light so that it turns off automatically in night, if there is no motion in the room for say, 20 mins. I don't want the app for turning the light on by motion.. but only to turn it off at night.
I just tried a set up like this and it didn't work for me. Not sure what I'm missing. I unchecked "Act" in the table because I only wanted to control turning off the light. I'd turn on the switch at the wall...then leave the room and I'd see in the logs the sensor going inactive and the RL instance would say "Already off" (even though the switch is on) and it wouldn't schedule the turn off at my delayed time.
I worked around that by checking the "Act" box and selecting my switch getting turned on as the means to activate (even though the switch itself would have turned on before the hub even gets that message) and then when the light was on the RL instance would say "(Active)" and THEN the motion going inactive would turn it off.
That did it. I guess that setting overrides the fact that RL isn't "activated" which my workaround activated it when the switch itself was turned on. Thank you. I'm still trying to decide for myself which way is more intuitive/less clicks to setup but at least this makes sense that it works and why it wasn't with the original solution.
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You clearly have a wiring problem. It sounds like you have lost one phase to the burner that has the problem. When you turn on the second/support burner, that switch is back-feeding power to the problem burner switch.
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Roku operating system version 10.5 added added a new "Power" item in the "Settings > System" menu for some of the newer Roku devices. At this writing they are currently Ultra LT/Ultra (4801/4800), Express 4K/4K+ (3940/3941), and Streaming Stick 4K/4K+ (3820/3821). The new "Auto power savings" item there will put your Roku device into a low power standby condition after a period of inactivity, such as when your tv has been turned off for a while.
Pressing a Roku control key (like HOME) on your Roku remote (not Power, Volume, or Mute if you have them which act on the TV, not the Roku) should bring the Roku out of standby and back to full operation. Pulling the power for a few seconds to restart the Roku will restore full operation as well.
The power savings are very small and for the hassle it causes, I don't think it's worth having this feature activated. If you disable the options under "Settings > System > Power > Auto power savings" it should prevent your Roku from going into standby in the first place.
I turned the big 4-0 on February 12 and so thankful for the many great friends I have acquired over the years. Our gracious neighbors hosted this party for me and we brainstormed on how to make it one to remember. I also hired a wonderful photography assistant of mine to capture this party and all photo credit goes to her.
Hoping someone can help out with this, there are 5 of us here in the office all using our boss' Microsoft office licence. Mainly using excel and unable to open Excel files at the same time without getting 'Read-only' access while opening. Is there anyway this can be removed so we can all save the same file?
Yes. You will need to have Cam Plus or Cam Plus Lite for the person detection. With either of those you can create a rule that turns the floodlight on if person detected by the camera for X time. It will look like this.
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When commuting with a bike I usually stick to the right lane (I am based in the USA). When approaching a right turn only lane while biking, should I stay in the turn lane and signal to the car behind me that you I'm going forward rather than turning right, or should I move to the center or left lane?
Exactly which I actually do depends on the traffic levels and what the far side of the intersection looks like. I would only do the 2nd or 3rd options if right-turning traffic is low and there's clearly space on the far side of the intersection for me to be to the right of the going-straight traffic (2 lanes, or 1 lane with a bike lane or wide shoulder).
If you continue straight from a right-turn only lane, what happens at the other side of the intersection? Either there's no lane for you, or else there's an area where cars will be pulling out to turn right onto your street. On the other hand, if you're out in the "go straight" lane, you're visible and predictable.
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