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funBart
Dec 18, 2013, 5:05:56 PM12/18/13
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Yep, machine is in the garage.
That would be a cause.
If I move to ABS plastic can you say is there options that needs to be adjusted right away?
Every material should be calibrated. That is why there are settings on every individual material tab. All filaments are not the same, even ones from the same source. Different colors of the same material type will calibrate differently. Different materials altogether definitely need their own settings, beyond temperature.
Tomis
- Newbie
- Posts: 12
Yep, machine is in the garage.
If I move to ABS plastic can you say is there options that needs to be adjusted right away? Nozzle and bed temp of course. With PLA hot end is now 230C and bed 80C.
If I move to ABS plastic can you say is there options that needs to be adjusted right away? Nozzle and bed temp of course. With PLA hot end is now 230C and bed 80C.
PenskeGuy
- Hero Member
- Posts: 1246
- Any Day I Learn Something New Is A Good Day
Are you in a dusty environment? Pets, perhaps? We do cat rescue, so there's always fur flying around. There's horses across the road that kick up clouds of pulverized granite dust. Any material that is on the filament that will not get melted will eventually cause a clog as it builds up. Saw evidence of this on the filament and made a soft wiper that surrounds the filament as it enters the feed tube. I used a spring clip around a small strip of triple-folded paper towel. Goes on and off easily and wipes the filament clean.
Your Flow Tweak is now within a normal range of adjustment and producing better results.
Your Flow Tweak is now within a normal range of adjustment and producing better results.
Tomis
- Newbie
- Posts: 12
Seems to be quite OK now... on the top still not fullfilled..more feed. Flow 0.9-0.93.
Tomis
- Newbie
- Posts: 12
Now the main problem seems to be the extruder because the nozzle gets stuck when printing many hours. Perhaps inside the plastic before nozzle...and then filament bends before nozzle and game over.
I put teflon tape in threadings between those and installed a small fan. I made some development to multec as well and made plastic guide closer to feed gear. Now lets see if these would help.
In picture it seemed quite OK before the nozzle jammed.
I put teflon tape in threadings between those and installed a small fan. I made some development to multec as well and made plastic guide closer to feed gear. Now lets see if these would help.
In picture it seemed quite OK before the nozzle jammed.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2013, 05:44:10 AM by Tomis »
PenskeGuy
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No. Thicker skin. Do a slice with 30 Loops and look at the Paths display.
But, 3 Loops will help to close those holes on the top surface.
But, 3 Loops will help to close those holes on the top surface.
Tomis
- Newbie
- Posts: 12
Looks to me that Flow Tweak is too low. How many Loops are you specifying?
This was made with 3 loops. First one was with 2 loops. I assume that 3 could be finer skin?
PenskeGuy
- Hero Member
- Posts: 1246
- Any Day I Learn Something New Is A Good Day
Looks to me that Flow Tweak is too low. How many Loops are you specifying?
Tomis
- Newbie
- Posts: 12
Hi
Update. Now i got some problems away but still something to do...
Now FLOW is 0.7 . Filament temperature rise ->230C helped feeding.
Any ideas? I try to increase the flow next?
Update. Now i got some problems away but still something to do...
Now FLOW is 0.7 . Filament temperature rise ->230C helped feeding.
Any ideas? I try to increase the flow next?
DSC_8748p.jpg (50.84 kB, 800x450 - viewed 11 times.)
DSC_8750p.jpg (87.19 kB, 800x1423 - viewed 9 times.)
DSC_8751p.jpg (97.13 kB, 800x1423 - viewed 9 times.) Owlsettings.gcode (4.75 kB - downloaded 1 times.)Tomis
- Newbie
- Posts: 12
Hi
I have been busy because i made a new lighter and faster machine..I am still using the same multec 0.35mm extruder and still the same problems. When i measure 100mm filament and command 100mm from mach3 it seems to be quite exact but when printing the filament bends before head and messes up. So i was thinking that supply was too high. Now when the flow is 0.7 it it goes trough. Head temp was 220 and with abs 250. I have not pictures from those cubes but first corner was bad and same kind of variation like in owl..humidity in PLA?
I put some pictures and setting files. I used pla 1.75 but now tried 1.75 ABS as well..
Thanks.
I have been busy because i made a new lighter and faster machine..I am still using the same multec 0.35mm extruder and still the same problems. When i measure 100mm filament and command 100mm from mach3 it seems to be quite exact but when printing the filament bends before head and messes up. So i was thinking that supply was too high. Now when the flow is 0.7 it it goes trough. Head temp was 220 and with abs 250. I have not pictures from those cubes but first corner was bad and same kind of variation like in owl..humidity in PLA?
I put some pictures and setting files. I used pla 1.75 but now tried 1.75 ABS as well..
Thanks.
3dprinter.jpg (180.24 kB, 800x1423 - viewed 20 times.) _materials.ini (1.05 kB - downloaded 2 times.) _printers.ini (1.62 kB - downloaded 2 times.) _styles.ini (0.61 kB - downloaded 2 times.)funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 307
I'm curious if you are successful yet with setting up.
Bart
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 307
Hi, welcome here!
Some first ideas's for the 'not so smooth' outside:
-it's a direct drive extruder I suppose? Is it skipping while extruding (a clunck clunck clunck sound)? When so, adjust the tension of the pressure on the drive gear.
-did you measure your filament or just added the 1.75mm in the material setting? Measure the filament with a caliper in various directions, take the average and put that in the diameter in Material settings.
-set the extrusion width to 0.4mm (your nozzle diameter) . Layer height first to 0.2 or 0.25mm.
-Don't print to fast yet. As I don't know if your firmware is capable of acceleration, you have to find out yourself reasonable settings I think. Unaccelerated is 20mm/s(perimeter and 40 (infill) ok, but accelerated 60 and 100mm/s for example. As you have a CNC machine I suppose it's not build to speed, but more to have a solid (so heavy) XYZ movement, resulting in lower speeds then for a 3D printer I suppose, but I can be wrong.
-print a simple calibration box (2 loops, 100% infill, so solid) (stl attached) first with that setting and see what the result is. To much is pushing the filament out (and probably also a skipping extruder) to less gives a poor layer bounding.
Just after done the above it make sense to adjust some more settings.
about the ears of the owl: I think you haven't set the destringing values ok yet:
- on the style tab: check: loops form insite to perimeter, wipe, destring
- on the material tab maybe start with a jump and trigger of 5mm. a wipe of 5mm and prime and suck 0.5mm. It's very dependent of the used hardware/extruder so you could end with higher or lower numbers (print two calibration boxes at one time, so you can see the effect of adjusting of destringing.
-when you use LinuxCNC I have read that there were some issues with destringing because of the settings of Linuxcnc, resulting in a very poor print. (I'm not sure but it had something with G0 commands to do).
-set the flow tweak to 1. For PLA a slow print can be done at 200 degrees celcius, but I print faster and set it at 220grC.
At the printer/hardware tab the Loop/infill overlap setting is important. With me, at 20% there was a poor connection, at 100% there was to little room for the infill.
-Be sure your firmware isn't overruling the settings you make in Kisslicer (speed. temperature, destringing etc).
I hope this helps a little,
Bart
Some first ideas's for the 'not so smooth' outside:
-it's a direct drive extruder I suppose? Is it skipping while extruding (a clunck clunck clunck sound)? When so, adjust the tension of the pressure on the drive gear.
-did you measure your filament or just added the 1.75mm in the material setting? Measure the filament with a caliper in various directions, take the average and put that in the diameter in Material settings.
-set the extrusion width to 0.4mm (your nozzle diameter) . Layer height first to 0.2 or 0.25mm.
-Don't print to fast yet. As I don't know if your firmware is capable of acceleration, you have to find out yourself reasonable settings I think. Unaccelerated is 20mm/s(perimeter and 40 (infill) ok, but accelerated 60 and 100mm/s for example. As you have a CNC machine I suppose it's not build to speed, but more to have a solid (so heavy) XYZ movement, resulting in lower speeds then for a 3D printer I suppose, but I can be wrong.
-print a simple calibration box (2 loops, 100% infill, so solid) (stl attached) first with that setting and see what the result is. To much is pushing the filament out (and probably also a skipping extruder) to less gives a poor layer bounding.
Just after done the above it make sense to adjust some more settings.
about the ears of the owl: I think you haven't set the destringing values ok yet:
- on the style tab: check: loops form insite to perimeter, wipe, destring
- on the material tab maybe start with a jump and trigger of 5mm. a wipe of 5mm and prime and suck 0.5mm. It's very dependent of the used hardware/extruder so you could end with higher or lower numbers (print two calibration boxes at one time, so you can see the effect of adjusting of destringing.
-when you use LinuxCNC I have read that there were some issues with destringing because of the settings of Linuxcnc, resulting in a very poor print. (I'm not sure but it had something with G0 commands to do).
-set the flow tweak to 1. For PLA a slow print can be done at 200 degrees celcius, but I print faster and set it at 220grC.
At the printer/hardware tab the Loop/infill overlap setting is important. With me, at 20% there was a poor connection, at 100% there was to little room for the infill.
-Be sure your firmware isn't overruling the settings you make in Kisslicer (speed. temperature, destringing etc).
I hope this helps a little,
Bart
20mm_Calibration_Box.stl (0.67 kB - downloaded 2 times.) two callibration boxes.stl (1.25 kB - downloaded 1 times.)Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Tomis
- Newbie
- Posts: 12
Hi
I installed Multec extruder to my DIY cnc machine. Now I am learning the settings and asking some help.
Do you have any ideas how to improve the quality? I use 1.75mm PLA with 0.4mm head now.
Thanks!
I installed Multec extruder to my DIY cnc machine. Now I am learning the settings and asking some help.
Do you have any ideas how to improve the quality? I use 1.75mm PLA with 0.4mm head now.
Thanks!
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