Science fiction or not

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Temo

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Jul 26, 2014, 9:10:25 AM7/26/14
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Hello

So I'm battling warp for large flat objects and boxes.

Would it be doable some time to print the way you lay brick or do general block work?

To elaborate a little on that.

If one could start with laying down the first layer and build up kind of steps towards the outer limits then print the sides, say in/up to a height of 20 mm so that the sides act kind of like a beam, fighting warp. Then go back and do the bottom.

To do this one would need to have a narrow, fairly long J-head/Prusa type of hotend and no fan at the lower part. There is already in many slicers a setting for the free area in need around the hotend, for not bumping into other printed objects.

I know this wont work for small parts, but then again it's not needed as they don't tend to warp like the big parts.

Also the hotend should have there wires an thermistors coming in from the top, not sticking out to the sides, and they should be symmetrical.

Any thoughts on this?


Terje

Duane Hall

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Aug 2, 2014, 10:35:07 AM8/2/14
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I have found that the key to no warping is to print on the small edge of the part.  It makes for a taller part (and often will require at a raft), but that has solved the warping problem on many parts. I hope that helps!
Duane

Temo

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Aug 4, 2014, 1:51:33 PM8/4/14
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Well yes, I do the same, but sometimes one need to get the layers in a particular direction to get the needed strength in the part/assemble.
So if I can I make holes in the part to take the stress out, that usually works good.

Terje
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