Top layer

[Pedro Feliciano]

How can I add more layers to the top finish

[frozen...@yahoo.com]

increase skin thickness. This sets the top and bottom layer thickness, but also affects wall thickness.

[Pedro Feliciano]

that's the problem I don't want to change the wall thickness.

[Steven]

Wall thickness is controlled by "Loops".

Top and bottom thickness is controlled by "Skin Thickness".  If skin thickness is set to 1mm and layer thickness is set to .25mm, then the top and bottom will be 4 layers thick.

[A. Elias]

Note if number of loops x perimeter nozzle is not greater than skin thickness then KISSlicer will fill in next to the perimeter extrusions at 100% to get the skin thickness.  

Example is loops of 2, perimeter nozzle set to 0.4 and skin thickness set to 1.6mm.  It will do the two perimeter loops to equate, and then fill in the remaining 0.8mm to achieve 1.6mm skin thickness.  I guess in the end, the skin thickness is for all sides, not just the top and bottom.  

ADam

[funBart]

Yes, the skin Thickness is even "3D' as Jonathan said: so KS calculates it Perpendicular to each part of the surface of the object, so as well '3D diagonally' to put it simple.

In general it's recommended to let the "number of loops" x "path width" > Skin thickness. (to avoid to much of that tiny solid infill area's). 

So FE 3 loops x 0.4mm Path width = 1.2mm, I set the Skin thickness to 0.8mm. But's depending of the object of course.

Bart

[Pedro Feliciano]

funbart

I tried your settings and the finish are actually good, but I get a small dent every time at the finish point of every print, its like the print jet sits for a second on the print before it homes itself.

if you look at the top left corner of both block samples.

The one on the left is at 10% infill the one on the right is at 25% infill not much of a difference in top layer finish, so your settings are good.

Now if I can have the print jet leave the second it finishes instead of it stay for a second which creates a dent on the print would be great.

How can this be prevented. What settimgs do I need to adjust.

[funBart]

can you post the Gcode (comments on, on the Printer // Firmware tab).

I don't have an idea jet, because I don't have that dent.

It's a normal cube that model, isn't it? Because the only thing I can think of is, when it last layer is a small area, and the minimum layer time on the material tab is set to high, so it's so slow printing the last area that the printed part melts because the extruder is a long time on almost the same place.

I have the end Gcode modified though: I have inserted a line to keep the HPB and extruder warm for 10 minutes, but that can't be it.

Your end Gcode is like this:?

; End of print

G1 X80 Y50 Z155 F900 (so, normally, direct after the print the extruder goes to this place)

M18 A B(Turn off A and B Steppers)

G1 Z155 F900

G162 X Y F2000

M18 X Y Z(Turn off steppers after a build)

M72 P1  ( Play Ta-Da song )

G4 P600000 (keep warm for 10 minutes after a print)

M109 S0 T0

M104 S0 T0

M104 S0 T1

M70 P5 (We <3 Making Things!)

M72 P1  ( Play Ta-Da song )

M73 P100 (end  build progress )

M137 (build end notification)

[Pedro Feliciano]

Is this for the cubex dou

[funBart]

No, it isn't! because you said that you had used my settings, I assumed you have had a makerbot Replicator as well.

Better ask a Cubex user for that. But I assume that the problem is in the end Gcode when it's not homing directly after a print.

[A. Elias]

I have a makergear M2 and just turn of all the motors, and bed drops pretty quickly after the end of a print.  I think my first KISSlicer print had a little Hershey kiss on the top as it didn't drop right away.  I quickly added the disable all motors g-code command.  My post G-code isn't as Fancy and funBart's.  :-(

Adam

[Ghost]

Yes I do also have a replicator Dou and a replicator 2
But the settings worked pretty good, I'll just keep messing with it till I figure it out.
Thanks

[Ghost]

Ok I'll try that
Thanks