BuildTak

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Colen Casey

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Jul 9, 2014, 12:43:44 AM7/9/14
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not directly related to the best slicing program out there but a heads up

BuiltTak

if you havent tried it you need to
got mine in today put it on the bed
Funny thing is I had to spray a light coat of aqua-net on the bed so the Tak would stick and lay 100% flat all the time
But once I did that and alled a little tolerance for the thickness of the Tak mat in my z-axis it was golden

abs no brim and nothing but the Tak mat and its 100% solid to the mat

a little pricey but its worth it

lonesock (Jonathan)

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Jul 9, 2014, 12:50:05 AM7/9/14
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Hey, I just got brim working, how dare you find a different solution!  [8^)

Thanks for the post...I will be looking it up.  Having some on hand for when I need to do a big print would be nice.

thanks,
Jonathan

Colen Casey

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Jul 9, 2014, 3:17:45 PM7/9/14
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Possibly spoke to soon
does a great job
was really impressed with the pla printing
switch to abs and ran with my default settings 80c bed and 245c first layer, 220c for all others

by the 3rd layer the buildtak curled up or as much as it could as it was clipped to the bed
back to using glass now

i'm going to try to heat up and press the buildtak flat again but for now its a wash

Lawrence LaRocque

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Jul 9, 2014, 11:06:24 PM7/9/14
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Have you tried using Elmer Glue or the purple washable glue stick.  I haven't printed in ABS in a while but the settings i have in KISS are 120 for the bed and 235 for all the layers.  Give it a try you only need a light coat.

Davide Ardizzoia

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Jul 10, 2014, 12:46:00 PM7/10/14
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I believe to have tried everything, except ABS glue.
IMHO you can't reliably print ABS (unless you are dealing with 20x20mm stuff) if you don't reach 110°C on the heated bed OR you print at 75-85 °C heated chamber.
Best printing surfaces so far are PET tapes (works with everything, except with polyamides... need to apply stick glue).
Best Regards
Davide Ardizzoia

Colen Casey

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Jul 10, 2014, 1:46:21 PM7/10/14
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Best I can tell I did not get a good plate from buildtak
when you peel the white backing off it should stick to the bed of the printer
mine did not stick well as I said I had to apply hairspray to hold it down
Going to give them another chance as many people are saying the worst thing about this tak plate is trying to get the parts off
seems to stick to well, adjusting z-axis height is a fix for that

Temo

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Jul 10, 2014, 5:44:32 PM7/10/14
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Hello

I'm using BuildTak on glass, no heat, printing with PLA and it works great. Never had any problems getting the BuildTak to adhere to the glass.
It was a bit painful getting all the air pockets out when putting it down, so its worth taking your time on this.

Terje

Colen Casey

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Jul 11, 2014, 1:12:44 PM7/11/14
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The makers of buildtak are thinking it was just a bad sheet or run
they are sending me a new sheet, since they are making good on this I will be
giving it another shot and will post my findings
I hope it does as well as it did the first time but without the coming loose part this time

cakeller98

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Jul 11, 2014, 3:50:47 PM7/11/14
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Quick note about Glue-Sticks... there are (as far as I have found) two kinds.  

  Washable and Permanent. 

Washable kind from Staples actually works (for me, every time)
Permanent DOES NOT WORK AT ALL (for me, on heated glass)

The washable actually is re-wettable and re-spreadable, and re-usable.  Meaning you don't have to go through tons of the stuff, just reapply or respread to cover the areas pulled up by the parts.

To rewet, I drizzle a little water over the surface to wet it.
I then scrap it all up with a blade or paint scraper.
I then have a pile of GOO that I can then re-spread with a pallet knife or pain scraper. 
The resulting film is great for ABS and actually way better than when applied from the glue-stick itself.

The permanent glue sticks (like the ones from Uhu) get gummy at higher temps and just have almost ZERO adhesion to my glass bed.

I WILL NOT EVER bother with the acetone mixed with ABS glue nastiness as that's just gross, smelly, and can cause damage to indoor surfaces etc. My printer is in my office, so ABS glue just isn't an option for me.

Also I'm not a big fan of any temporary or removable surface treatment unless it's DIRT cheap, and EXTREMELY easy to clean up.  the process of taping the surface sucks.  Disposable build surfaces SUCKS.  this glue is non-toxic, and easy to use and clean up.

Of course this is just my experience - your mileage may very.  But the most important point I wanted to make was about the different types of glue stick and the fact that I've only actually found ONE brand that I LOVE the rest that I tried can suck it.

Oh and lastly I only print ABS with my build plate set to 80°C  higher and the parts don't stick too well and/or stay too squishy and move around too much (I print really thin-walled parts <1mm thick walls) 

Cheers ;) 

Just my $0.02

Lawrence LaRocque

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Jul 13, 2014, 12:48:04 AM7/13/14
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I agree with you because that is exactly what I do for abs. For pla I run my heated bed at 85 with hairspray. Pops right off when done.

A. Elias

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Jul 16, 2014, 8:44:17 AM7/16/14
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I agree as well.  I've found that a glue stick works well with PET+ at 60 degC. Almost too well depending on how well the first layer is put down.

Ammonia works very well in softening the washable glue up to re-spread or remove it completely.  I find it works better than soap and water.  

Lawrence LaRocque

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Jul 24, 2014, 1:42:44 PM7/24/14
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Good call on the ammonia. Never thought of using it, I have always just used a spray bottle and water.
Thanks
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