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funBart
Dec 14, 2013, 6:51:33 PM12/14/13
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chickan
- Newbie
- Posts: 17
My 3d printer (Leapfrog Creatr) does not have a cooling fan for the build, so printing PLA becomes a challenge. After many builds getting with quick layer times getting hot, I have found that by adding a 3 second wait in between layers, the build is allowed to cool sufficiently to move on to the next layer.
Under Printer G-Code -> N
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26643
200C extruder, 60C bed, directly on heated glass. Flow tweak of 0.50, 100% infill, 0.25mm layers.
Under Printer G-Code -> N
- Layers, set
- N to 1, and add "G4 P3000". Works great even with thin walls.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26643
200C extruder, 60C bed, directly on heated glass. Flow tweak of 0.50, 100% infill, 0.25mm layers.
bionic holder1.jpg (108.63 kB, 1632x920 - viewed 64 times.)
bionic holder2.jpg (175.28 kB, 920x1632 - viewed 32 times.)
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 296
My 3d printer (Leapfrog Creatr) does not have a cooling fan for the build, so printing PLA becomes a challenge. After many builds getting with quick layer times getting hot, I have found that by adding a 3 second wait in between layers, the build is allowed to cool sufficiently to move on to the next layer.
Under Printer G-Code -> Nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26643
- Layers, set
- N to 1, and add "G4 P3000". Works great even with thin walls.
200C extruder, 60C bed, directly on heated glass. Flow tweak of 0.50, 100% infill, 0.25mm layers.
FWIW: I simply mounted a 120mm computerfan with own power supply on the front of my printer to cool PLA. Works very well for some months now. The print time is shortened by that.
You probably know it, but you know you can adjust the minimum printer time at the material tab? For PLA I use most of the time 4 sec with cooling fan and 8 seconds without.
The downside of slowing down is that the hot nozzle is a long time on the same place. About your solution: not a bad idea either!
I would recommend lifting the Z when waiting to avoid the nozzle being on the printed part and still transmitting heat.
G1 Z<Z+1> (go up one mm or more if you want)
G4 P3000
G1 Z<Z> (going back to the original height)
Maybe Jonathan has more ideas.
Hope it helps.
I have a question about the Creatr: I saw they have upgraded the original design recently with improved Z spindles and so. I was thinking to replace my Replicator 1 with it and have spent some time reading on their forum. It's unclear for me how the customer support is. Some are not satisfied, but they have sold 1000 printers, in that sense not much complains then. How is your experience?
Also: the printspeed is low: don't they support accelerated firmware? Can it be upgraded to some Marlin firmware?
I don't get your flow tweak of 0.5?
Bart
« Last Edit: February 01, 2013, 12:27:49 PM by funbart »
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
chickan
- Newbie
- Posts: 17
I may try mounting a separate fan, that is a good idea.
I have the min layer time set to 20 seconds, but some layers still take less than 5 seconds, due to the minimum print speed.
As for the z height, the code is inserted between the Z moves that account for settle. So by default, the end of a layer is when the Z drops, then the wait code (or any other code per layer) is inserted, then the Z raises to the correct height for the next layer. This luckily means the print head is about 0.25mm from the top of the build, which appears to be enough space to not melt everything.
I received my creatr in late December, so I believe I have the latest hardware revision. It comes with more or less stock marlin firmware, I can look up the version on Monday. Overall I really like the printer, but it is my first 3d printer, so hard to compare. Getting the bed level can be tricky, and while having a huge print surface is awesome, it makes it more difficult to level the bed, apply kapton tape without bubbles, etc. This fact is one thing that draws me to kisslicer, as I can have it create a raft that eliminates these issues.
As for Leapfrog's filament material, it is made in China knock-off junk. The spools are only labeled in Chinese and the print quality has been mixed. When they spool fine, everything is fine, but often the filament is tangled or twisted under itself, killing the build. I've also had some spools where it looks like the plastic filament was so hot when spooling it stuck to previous layers, again killing the build. I also have not had much luck getting ABS to stick to kapton tape, even with 60-80C bed temp. It will stick ok to blue painters tape or aluminum tape, but only with ABS plastic dissolved in acetone and spread over the tape. With some PLA I sourced from amazon, I've had good luck printing directly on the heated glass.
Speaking of the heated build plate, I'm pretty sure it can only get to 85C or so. I have not measured it other than the built-in thermister, but that is where it platoes and cannot climb higher. The build plate itself appears to be plexiglass, not actual glass, and is rather thin. This has caused it to bow up a bit overtime. The Z end stop is a proxy switch, which is nice but I cannot figure out how to easily and reliably adjust it, I'm stuck with changing the Z offset before each print (G1 Z0.6; G92 Z0).
Mostly minor gripes, but that has been my experience.
The flow tweak of 0.5 means kisslicer's default extruder settings would cause about 2x more material to come out than is actually required. A flow tweak of 1.0 is stock, but the prints with that would cause so much material to extrude out that it would "dish" and form a wall. This causes the print head to hit the wall and skips the x/y stepper motors, moving the print. This looks like this:http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:55874 By lowering the flow tweak, I've been able to get better prints out of kisslicer.
I have the min layer time set to 20 seconds, but some layers still take less than 5 seconds, due to the minimum print speed.
As for the z height, the code is inserted between the Z moves that account for settle. So by default, the end of a layer is when the Z drops, then the wait code (or any other code per layer) is inserted, then the Z raises to the correct height for the next layer. This luckily means the print head is about 0.25mm from the top of the build, which appears to be enough space to not melt everything.
I received my creatr in late December, so I believe I have the latest hardware revision. It comes with more or less stock marlin firmware, I can look up the version on Monday. Overall I really like the printer, but it is my first 3d printer, so hard to compare. Getting the bed level can be tricky, and while having a huge print surface is awesome, it makes it more difficult to level the bed, apply kapton tape without bubbles, etc. This fact is one thing that draws me to kisslicer, as I can have it create a raft that eliminates these issues.
As for Leapfrog's filament material, it is made in China knock-off junk. The spools are only labeled in Chinese and the print quality has been mixed. When they spool fine, everything is fine, but often the filament is tangled or twisted under itself, killing the build. I've also had some spools where it looks like the plastic filament was so hot when spooling it stuck to previous layers, again killing the build. I also have not had much luck getting ABS to stick to kapton tape, even with 60-80C bed temp. It will stick ok to blue painters tape or aluminum tape, but only with ABS plastic dissolved in acetone and spread over the tape. With some PLA I sourced from amazon, I've had good luck printing directly on the heated glass.
Speaking of the heated build plate, I'm pretty sure it can only get to 85C or so. I have not measured it other than the built-in thermister, but that is where it platoes and cannot climb higher. The build plate itself appears to be plexiglass, not actual glass, and is rather thin. This has caused it to bow up a bit overtime. The Z end stop is a proxy switch, which is nice but I cannot figure out how to easily and reliably adjust it, I'm stuck with changing the Z offset before each print (G1 Z0.6; G92 Z0).
Mostly minor gripes, but that has been my experience.
The flow tweak of 0.5 means kisslicer's default extruder settings would cause about 2x more material to come out than is actually required. A flow tweak of 1.0 is stock, but the prints with that would cause so much material to extrude out that it would "dish" and form a wall. This causes the print head to hit the wall and skips the x/y stepper motors, moving the print. This looks like this:http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:55874 By lowering the flow tweak, I've been able to get better prints out of kisslicer.
Leapfrog Creatr
m2tts
- Newbie
- Posts: 41
I'm printing on a solidoodle, and for ABS to stick to the bed, I have the temp set to 95 ( on borosilicate glass). Even without anything sprayed on the glass (i have a can of AquaNet that works really well; only one coat on the glass so far and have printed about ten thing on it) the ABS sticks just fine. When the glass cools, the part can be just lifted off.
And when do we rate not having to enter all those unreadable letters to allow a post!
And when do we rate not having to enter all those unreadable letters to allow a post!
PenskeGuy
- Hero Member
- Posts: 1236
- Any Day I Learn Something New Is A Good Day
And when do we rate not having to enter all those unreadable letters to allow a post!
I think you're at that point now.
lonesock (Jonathan)
- KISSlicer Developer
- Administrator
- Hero Member
- Posts: 1042
- Alibre -> KISSlicer -> RapMan 3.1
Nice trick! And after 5 posts you are "one of us now". [8^)
Jonathan
Jonathan
*A2TD : "Added to the ToDo list"
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 296
[size=78%]I have the min layer time set to 20 seconds, but some layers still take less than 5 seconds, due to the minimum print speed.[/size]
Is that minimum speed in the firmware / repetier host, or do you mean resulting from the minimum flow@ material tab?
As for the z height, the code is inserted between the Z moves that account for settle. So by default, the end of a layer is when the Z drops, then the wait code (or any other code per layer) is inserted, then the Z raises to the correct height for the next layer. This luckily means the print head is about 0.25mm from the top of the build, which appears to be enough space to not melt everything.
Good to know!
I received my creatr in late December, so I believe I have the latest hardware revision. It comes with more or less stock marlin firmware, I can look up the version on Monday. Overall I really like the printer, but it is my first 3d printer, so hard to compare. Getting the bed level can be tricky, and while having a huge print surface is awesome, it makes it more difficult to level the bed, apply kapton tape without bubbles, etc. This fact is one thing that draws me to kisslicer, as I can have it create a raft that eliminates these issues.
I use now the hairspray method for ABS as well PLA. Kapton is to much work and changing to blue tape for PLA as well.
As for Leapfrog's filament material, it is made in China knock-off junk. The spools are only labeled in Chinese and the print quality has been mixed. When they spool fine, everything is fine, but often the filament is tangled or twisted under itself, killing the build. I've also had some spools where it looks like the plastic filament was so hot when spooling it stuck to previous layers, again killing the build. I also have not had much luck getting ABS to stick to kapton tape, even with 60-80C bed temp. It will stick ok to blue painters tape or aluminum tape, but only with ABS plastic dissolved in acetone and spread over the tape. With some PLA I sourced from amazon, I've had good luck printing directly on the heated glass.
With Makerbot normally it's advised to print ABS on a 110 degrees bed to prevent warping on Kapton. In my experience was 100 degrees to less with Kapton to prevent warping with ABS. Draft (?the wind which is blowing in rooms..?) also makes ABS warp. Therefore a lot of people have enclosed their printers. At the moment I print ABS with a HPB of 60 degrees, but that works because of the hairspray which is sticky at that temp, and hard on 20 degrees (the model is easy to remove then). At the moment I have less warp with ABS when cooling it while printing as much as possible (like PLA). But that is not commonly used. It works with me, but it shouldn't.
Speaking of the heated build plate, I'm pretty sure it can only get to 85C or so. I have not measured it other than the built-in thermister, but that is where it platoes and cannot climb higher. The build plate itself appears to be plexiglass, not actual glass, and is rather thin. This has caused it to bow up a bit overtime. The Z end stop is a proxy switch, which is nice but I cannot figure out how to easily and reliably adjust it, I'm stuck with changing the Z offset before each print (G1 Z0.6; G92 Z0).
That plate doesn't sound good yet.... But Makerbot users had the same, I had mine replaced by a thicker version by them. Also users are developing stiffer systems for it. But that's not something nice when you just bought a printer.
Mostly minor gripes, but that has been my experience.
The flow tweak of 0.5 means kisslicer's default extruder settings would cause about 2x more material to come out than is actually required. A flow tweak of 1.0 is stock, but the prints with that would cause so much material to extrude out that it would "dish" and form a wall. This causes the print head to hit the wall and skips the x/y stepper motors, moving the print. This looks like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:55874 By lowering the flow tweak, I've been able to get better prints out of kisslicer.
Have you printed as well with other slicers yet and do you have to adjust the flow as well with them?
When you print a callibration box, does it have the correct height?
I saw the old Z spindles where normal M10 rods, the newer seems to have a bigger raise per revolution.
Could it be that the firmware not has adapted yet for the new spindles and it's not that the extrusion is to less, but that the steps in the firmware to describe a raise of 1mm are simply to less?
If that you are simply printing with (about) the half of the layer height then expecting and for that have to adjust the flow to about the half.
Just curious, because that flow tweak make no sense IMO.
Bart
Is that minimum speed in the firmware / repetier host, or do you mean resulting from the minimum flow@ material tab?
As for the z height, the code is inserted between the Z moves that account for settle. So by default, the end of a layer is when the Z drops, then the wait code (or any other code per layer) is inserted, then the Z raises to the correct height for the next layer. This luckily means the print head is about 0.25mm from the top of the build, which appears to be enough space to not melt everything.
Good to know!
I received my creatr in late December, so I believe I have the latest hardware revision. It comes with more or less stock marlin firmware, I can look up the version on Monday. Overall I really like the printer, but it is my first 3d printer, so hard to compare. Getting the bed level can be tricky, and while having a huge print surface is awesome, it makes it more difficult to level the bed, apply kapton tape without bubbles, etc. This fact is one thing that draws me to kisslicer, as I can have it create a raft that eliminates these issues.
I use now the hairspray method for ABS as well PLA. Kapton is to much work and changing to blue tape for PLA as well.
As for Leapfrog's filament material, it is made in China knock-off junk. The spools are only labeled in Chinese and the print quality has been mixed. When they spool fine, everything is fine, but often the filament is tangled or twisted under itself, killing the build. I've also had some spools where it looks like the plastic filament was so hot when spooling it stuck to previous layers, again killing the build. I also have not had much luck getting ABS to stick to kapton tape, even with 60-80C bed temp. It will stick ok to blue painters tape or aluminum tape, but only with ABS plastic dissolved in acetone and spread over the tape. With some PLA I sourced from amazon, I've had good luck printing directly on the heated glass.
With Makerbot normally it's advised to print ABS on a 110 degrees bed to prevent warping on Kapton. In my experience was 100 degrees to less with Kapton to prevent warping with ABS. Draft (?the wind which is blowing in rooms..?) also makes ABS warp. Therefore a lot of people have enclosed their printers. At the moment I print ABS with a HPB of 60 degrees, but that works because of the hairspray which is sticky at that temp, and hard on 20 degrees (the model is easy to remove then). At the moment I have less warp with ABS when cooling it while printing as much as possible (like PLA). But that is not commonly used. It works with me, but it shouldn't.
Speaking of the heated build plate, I'm pretty sure it can only get to 85C or so. I have not measured it other than the built-in thermister, but that is where it platoes and cannot climb higher. The build plate itself appears to be plexiglass, not actual glass, and is rather thin. This has caused it to bow up a bit overtime. The Z end stop is a proxy switch, which is nice but I cannot figure out how to easily and reliably adjust it, I'm stuck with changing the Z offset before each print (G1 Z0.6; G92 Z0).
That plate doesn't sound good yet.... But Makerbot users had the same, I had mine replaced by a thicker version by them. Also users are developing stiffer systems for it. But that's not something nice when you just bought a printer.
Mostly minor gripes, but that has been my experience.
The flow tweak of 0.5 means kisslicer's default extruder settings would cause about 2x more material to come out than is actually required. A flow tweak of 1.0 is stock, but the prints with that would cause so much material to extrude out that it would "dish" and form a wall. This causes the print head to hit the wall and skips the x/y stepper motors, moving the print. This looks like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:55874 By lowering the flow tweak, I've been able to get better prints out of kisslicer.
Have you printed as well with other slicers yet and do you have to adjust the flow as well with them?
When you print a callibration box, does it have the correct height?
I saw the old Z spindles where normal M10 rods, the newer seems to have a bigger raise per revolution.
Could it be that the firmware not has adapted yet for the new spindles and it's not that the extrusion is to less, but that the steps in the firmware to describe a raise of 1mm are simply to less?
If that you are simply printing with (about) the half of the layer height then expecting and for that have to adjust the flow to about the half.
Just curious, because that flow tweak make no sense IMO.
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
chickan
- Newbie
- Posts: 17
In Slic3r using the configuration file provided by Leapfrog I did not have to use a flow tweak. Good tip on the hair spray, I'll have to give that a try. I'll try another calibration print with my latest settings in kisslicer and report back.
Leapfrog Creatr
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 296
In Slic3r using the configuration file provided by Leapfrog I did not have to use a flow tweak. Good tip on the hair spray, I'll have to give that a try. I'll try another calibration print with my latest settings in kisslicer and report back.
I saw @leapfrog that the difference is between M8 and M10 spindle. Not enough to explain your issue.
Did you visit that forum as well?
I use slic3r as well. Can you post both your zipped configs (KS and Slic3r)? Maybe I can find something when comparing Gcode, with about the same settings, the E values in the code should be about the same.
Or will we banned from the KS forum, posting some slic3r things ;-)
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Sublime
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 386
- www.Tantillus.org
In Slic3r using the configuration file provided by Leapfrog I did not have to use a flow tweak. Good tip on the hair spray, I'll have to give that a try. I'll try another calibration print with my latest settings in kisslicer and report back.
Odds are this is a result of Slic3r trying to determine the correct printing width automatically and that makes it print far far far wider than the nozzle diameter which is recommended by Kisslicer as the extrusion width. If you manually set Slic3r to use a reasonable width you will probably get similar flow issues.
chickan
- Newbie
- Posts: 17
My Creatr is running Marlin 1.0.0 RC2. With my current kisslicer settings I do get accurate Z-height objects. I just printed this:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28970 Size in STL is 117.5mm x 63mm x 60mm. Printed it is 116.9 x 62.6mm x 60.1mm. The Z is a bit high due to the raft I printed it on. So the calibration isn't perfect, but is pretty close.
Attached are my current settings for Slic3r 0.9.8 and Kisslicer 1.1.0c beta.
Attached are my current settings for Slic3r 0.9.8 and Kisslicer 1.1.0c beta.
Leapfrog Creatr Config Files - Chickan.zip (3 kB - downloaded 9 times.)Leapfrog Creatr
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 296
Hi,
I thought the nozzle of the creatr is 0.35mm? You have 0.41? a difference of 0.7x the surface.
It could explain the flow tweak you need in KS. Slic3r uses the diameter of the nozzle in the calculations (unless KS).
I don't see the rest of the material settings of Slic3r in your file, what's the diameter of the filament? or same as in KS.
Bart
I thought the nozzle of the creatr is 0.35mm? You have 0.41? a difference of 0.7x the surface.
It could explain the flow tweak you need in KS. Slic3r uses the diameter of the nozzle in the calculations (unless KS).
I don't see the rest of the material settings of Slic3r in your file, what's the diameter of the filament? or same as in KS.
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
chickan
- Newbie
- Posts: 17
The nozzle is 0.35mm, but the default config files for slic3r from leapfrog say 0.41mm, not really sure why. In KS, I set it to 0.41mm as well. For filament, I used the measured 1.72mm in both KS and Slic3r.
Leapfrog Creatr
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 296
The nozzle is 0.35mm, but the default config files for slic3r from leapfrog say 0.41mm, not really sure why. In KS, I set it to 0.41mm as well. For filament, I used the measured 1.72mm in both KS and Slic3r.
In Kisslicer 0.41? You mean the extrusion width I suppose?
But you can't compare the two slicers according that. And as pointed out by Sublime: you have your path widths in Slicr3 on "automatic" because under the print settings, Advanced, probably set as "zero". I don't see the print settings you uploaded for now.
But what I think: the firmware of the Creatr is not yet tweaked or adjusted even remotely . Because of that they changed the settings of Slic3r to get a decent output. So now I can imagine you had to tweak the Kisslicer setting so much to get a decent output as well...
How it works normally (from what I think to have understood, not by far an expert):
- In the firmware there are numbers to describe how many steps the steppermotors have to make for (XYZ) 1mm displacements. Same for the extruders: in the firmware is a number how many steps it takes to transport 1mm material (the coldinput, 1,75mm filament)
- Kisslicer slices based on that this firmware settings are ok. So KS calculates the paths, because of settings under the style tab. (just the geometrical paths). So the perimeter first, the loop next to it the path width offsetted and so on.
- After that it calculates how much filament is needed, so pathwidth * layer height. Beside speed settings it calculates the E value you see in the Gcode. That's the length of the filament in mm to be driven by the extruder for that specific extrusion.
- So by this KS doesn't has to know what the nozzle diameter is. But for that the firmware, and the steps described for transporting 1 mm filament has to be ok.
Slic3r has another classic calculation method I suppose, but I tried it, and even when you have a fixed extrusion width set, when changing the nozzle diameter it makes a lot of difference comparing the E values of the same stl.
Personally I think Leapfrog has to supply firmware where the settings are tweaked and can be used by other slicers. Maybe you can ask about it. Probably the Reprap forums can help you too with that.
So nothing wrong with KS I suppose, the setting they provided with Slic3r just hide their faults IMO.
Maybe Jonathan can help:
but I think that setting the flow to 1 and diameters to measured values is better. I think the Gain value under the extruder tab is more the setting to change. But maybe it gives the same result at the end as the flow tweak you use right know.
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
chickan
- Newbie
- Posts: 17
Correct, I set the extrusion width to 0.41mm in KS, and in Slic3r the extrusion width is set to automatic (0).
I think you are correct. I need to find a calibration technique and see where the firmware values are, and if I can tweak them. I tried sending "M503" to the machine, but I get no echo's back at all. Is there any other command to determine the current values?
I think you are correct. I need to find a calibration technique and see where the firmware values are, and if I can tweak them. I tried sending "M503" to the machine, but I get no echo's back at all. Is there any other command to determine the current values?
Leapfrog Creatr
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 296
Correct, I set the extrusion width to 0.41mm in KS, and in Slic3r the extrusion width is set to automatic (0).
I think you are correct. I need to find a calibration technique and see where the firmware values are, and if I can tweak them. I tried sending "M503" to the machine, but I get no echo's back at all. Is there any other command to determine the current values?
I'm only familair with ReplicatorG about that, so no idea.
But please find it out, so I can ask you when I bought a Creatr ;-)
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
lotw
- Jr. Member
- Posts: 56
What I have found with my limited testing of PLA is the following. Set bed temp to 85d and hot end to 185d or so. Here is the important part, spray your bed with hairspray a few second before you start your print and after the bed is above 60. Wait a couple seconds and start. What also helps is a slow printing speed, at least for my printer I have to print PLA at 1/2 the speed I can print ABS at.
3D Printer - Lulzbot AO-101. OS - OSX 10.8.3, KISSlicer, Repetier Host.
Rawpork
- Newbie
- Posts: 6
What I have found with my limited testing of PLA is the following. Set bed temp to 85d and hot end to 185d or so. Here is the important part, spray your bed with hairspray a few second before you start your print and after the bed is above 60. Wait a couple seconds and start. What also helps is a slow printing speed, at least for my printer I have to print PLA at 1/2 the speed I can print ABS at.
Hey bro I used to print slow also because I made mistake of finding a low melting point of PLA. Rather I started to think how as it tries to go faster it cannot be melted fast enough. So talked to a buddy and he said crank up that temp baby. So I did, now I run at 200C rather than 187c like I was and now I am printing at 100% speed, want to overclock and print faster than 100%, then crank up the heat, run it up to 210 220 without burning it as long as you are running at 150-200% speed. Good luck, but seriously raise that temp and raise that speed, you will be printing much more (: Good luck BRO! (:
PenskeGuy
- Hero Member
- Posts: 1236
- Any Day I Learn Something New Is A Good Day
Yes, temperature and flow rate are linked. There is a limit to how quickly a given volume will go through a tiny hole at a given viscosity. Lower the viscosity and it takes less pressure to do the same job, or increased flow at the same pressure. There are also limits on the upper end. Go too far and ooze will be uncontrollable. Hardware suffers as well. Hitting the sweet spot, and not trying to hit the speed record, will produce reliable parts. I way prefer waiting a little longer, have great quality and a longer lasting machine.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2013, 05:51:56 PM by PenskeGuy »
PenskeGuy
- Hero Member
- Posts: 1236
- Any Day I Learn Something New Is A Good Day
Don't have a heated bed yet but have been experimenting with the various techniques for getting stuff to stick to glass. Apparently, the type of hairspray is significant. Tried one that my SO happened to have and the PLA didn't stick well. Tried the glue stick and it was ugly. Have yet to try a thinned down solution of wood glue in its place.
However, the ABS slurry is working extremely well. No one seems to accurately describe their method of making it or applying it. All seem to go through the process of dissolving cast-off printed scrap in acetone for a number of hours/days to form a slurry; which sounds thick. I went in another direction. Having some ABS cement (already dissolved ABS) that is used to weld parts together and diluting that at 10 or 20 to 1 using acetone; creates a watery consistency that is dark grey and translucent. It is applied with a facial tissue folded into a thick pad, in order to apply as smoothly and as uniformly as possible. Only one coat, quickly applied in even parallel overlapping strokes on the glass is enough. All you need is a film. The less you apply, the better. When it's correct, the glass looks like it could use a cleaning when viewed at a large incident angle but nearly undetectable when perpendicular.
PLA parts hold just enough, come off easily and have a fine gloss with a minimal amount of residue that readily washes off with soap and water on a soft nail brush to get into the tiny grooves between loops.
However, the ABS slurry is working extremely well. No one seems to accurately describe their method of making it or applying it. All seem to go through the process of dissolving cast-off printed scrap in acetone for a number of hours/days to form a slurry; which sounds thick. I went in another direction. Having some ABS cement (already dissolved ABS) that is used to weld parts together and diluting that at 10 or 20 to 1 using acetone; creates a watery consistency that is dark grey and translucent. It is applied with a facial tissue folded into a thick pad, in order to apply as smoothly and as uniformly as possible. Only one coat, quickly applied in even parallel overlapping strokes on the glass is enough. All you need is a film. The less you apply, the better. When it's correct, the glass looks like it could use a cleaning when viewed at a large incident angle but nearly undetectable when perpendicular.
PLA parts hold just enough, come off easily and have a fine gloss with a minimal amount of residue that readily washes off with soap and water on a soft nail brush to get into the tiny grooves between loops.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2013, 06:15:51 PM by PenskeGuy »
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