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funBart
Dec 13, 2013, 5:45:06 PM12/13/13
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20mmCube_MakerWare_KissSlicer.zip (52.12 kB - downloaded 1 times.)
RenatoT
- Newbie
- Posts: 7
Hi All,
i just bought the Kisslicer to use it on Replicator 2 with Sailfish.
I can't start a print with a raft.. and the raft have a lot problems to attach to the plate. Normally with mamkerware i can print all without raft.
So i miss some settings for this. Another problem is that from kisslicer the print don't start as usual with a line that clean the nozzle.. but start directly on the model.. and the PLA don't attach to plate ..
Right now i sliced the model with Kisslicer, then save the gcode to replicatorg then print from it.. is it correct?
Do anyone have to spare the correct setting to use kisslicer and my Rep2 with Sailfish 7.5?
thanks a lot
Renato
i just bought the Kisslicer to use it on Replicator 2 with Sailfish.
I can't start a print with a raft.. and the raft have a lot problems to attach to the plate. Normally with mamkerware i can print all without raft.
So i miss some settings for this. Another problem is that from kisslicer the print don't start as usual with a line that clean the nozzle.. but start directly on the model.. and the PLA don't attach to plate ..
Right now i sliced the model with Kisslicer, then save the gcode to replicatorg then print from it.. is it correct?
Do anyone have to spare the correct setting to use kisslicer and my Rep2 with Sailfish 7.5?
thanks a lot
Renato
Replicator 2 - Salifish 7.5 or original 7.5.
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 292
Hi, welcome to the forum!
Whpthomas has made some settings for the Rep2: http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=443.0;attach=1329
It's in the topic with various settings: http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php?topic=443.0
I have a Rep 1 and made a short guide for it. Many of it is the same for the Rep 2: http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php?topic=443.msg3231#msg3231
We all use Sailfish of course pffff... ;-)
One of the most important steps is to measure your filament diameter and tune it (with a test Callibration box) and put it in the belonging fields of the Material tab. (which is more a library of materials, the filament to print with is chosen in the Printer // Extruder tab.)
Whatever you print with Makerware regarding first layer / the priming line etc is always possible with any other slicer, because it's all in the in the startGcode used. [size=78%](See the tab PtrGcode//prefix. Same for the EndGcode.)[/size][/font]
Normally you can copy and paste the startGcode and EndGcode from Makerware (or the Gcode produced by Makerware) to the belonging fields of PtrGcode of Kisslicer (Prefix and Postfix). I assume they are already correct in the settings of WhpThomas for the Rep2, when you use them.
(**** start.gcode for Replicator 2 ****)
M103 (turn extruder off)
M73 P0 (start build progress)
G21 (set units to mm)
G90 (set positioning to absolute)
M106 (turn on cooling fan)
M104 S<TEMP> T0 (set extruder temperature)
(**** begin homing ****)
G162 X Y F2500 (home XY axes maximum)
G161 Z F1100 (home Z axis minimum)
G92 Z-5 (set Z to -5)
G1 Z0.0 (move Z to "0")
G161 Z F100 (home Z axis minimum slowly)
M132 X Y Z A B (load current position from EPROM for XYZAB axis)
(**** end homing ****)
G0 X145 Y-75 Z30 (move to waiting position off build plate)
G130 X20 Y20 Z20 A20 B20 (lower stepper Vrefs while heating)
M6 T0 (wait for extruder to reach temperature)
G130 X127 Y127 Z40 A127 B127 (set stepper motor Vref to defaults)
G0 X145 Y-75 Z0.5 (position nozzle)
M108 R5.0 (set extruder to 5 RPM)
M126 (start blower fan)
M101 (start extruder)
G4 P1500 (pre-prime extruder)
G1 X140 Y-70 Z0.2 F1000 (do a slow wipe...)
G0 Z0.5 (...and lift)
(**** end of start.gcode ****)
And the EndGcode
(**** End.gcode ****)
M73 P100 ( end build progress )
M127 (stop blower fan)
G0 Z155 F1000 ( send Z axis to bottom of machine )
M18 ( disable stepper )
M106 (turn on cooling fan)
M104 S0 T0 ( cool down extruder )
G162 X Y F2500 ( home XY endstops )
M18 ( disable stepper motors )
M70 P5 ( We <3 Making Things!)
M72 P1 ( play Ta-Da song )
(**** end of End.gcode ****)
Regarding the height of the first layer (or the raft when it's the first layer) You can tweak the settings of the Printer // Hardware tab. For example: I have set the bed roughness to 0.05mm and the Z offset to -0.05mm, resulting in a little bit 'fatter' first extrusion to press it to the build plate.
You have to 'play with that settings a little I assume.
Hopes this helps a little,
Bart
Whpthomas has made some settings for the Rep2: http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=443.0;attach=1329
It's in the topic with various settings: http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php?topic=443.0
I have a Rep 1 and made a short guide for it. Many of it is the same for the Rep 2: http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php?topic=443.msg3231#msg3231
We all use Sailfish of course pffff... ;-)
One of the most important steps is to measure your filament diameter and tune it (with a test Callibration box) and put it in the belonging fields of the Material tab. (which is more a library of materials, the filament to print with is chosen in the Printer // Extruder tab.)
Whatever you print with Makerware regarding first layer / the priming line etc is always possible with any other slicer, because it's all in the in the startGcode used. [size=78%](See the tab PtrGcode//prefix. Same for the EndGcode.)[/size][/font]
Normally you can copy and paste the startGcode and EndGcode from Makerware (or the Gcode produced by Makerware) to the belonging fields of PtrGcode of Kisslicer (Prefix and Postfix). I assume they are already correct in the settings of WhpThomas for the Rep2, when you use them.
(**** start.gcode for Replicator 2 ****)
M103 (turn extruder off)
M73 P0 (start build progress)
G21 (set units to mm)
G90 (set positioning to absolute)
M106 (turn on cooling fan)
M104 S<TEMP> T0 (set extruder temperature)
(**** begin homing ****)
G162 X Y F2500 (home XY axes maximum)
G161 Z F1100 (home Z axis minimum)
G92 Z-5 (set Z to -5)
G1 Z0.0 (move Z to "0")
G161 Z F100 (home Z axis minimum slowly)
M132 X Y Z A B (load current position from EPROM for XYZAB axis)
(**** end homing ****)
G0 X145 Y-75 Z30 (move to waiting position off build plate)
G130 X20 Y20 Z20 A20 B20 (lower stepper Vrefs while heating)
M6 T0 (wait for extruder to reach temperature)
G130 X127 Y127 Z40 A127 B127 (set stepper motor Vref to defaults)
G0 X145 Y-75 Z0.5 (position nozzle)
M108 R5.0 (set extruder to 5 RPM)
M126 (start blower fan)
M101 (start extruder)
G4 P1500 (pre-prime extruder)
G1 X140 Y-70 Z0.2 F1000 (do a slow wipe...)
G0 Z0.5 (...and lift)
(**** end of start.gcode ****)
And the EndGcode
(**** End.gcode ****)
M73 P100 ( end build progress )
M127 (stop blower fan)
G0 Z155 F1000 ( send Z axis to bottom of machine )
M18 ( disable stepper )
M106 (turn on cooling fan)
M104 S0 T0 ( cool down extruder )
G162 X Y F2500 ( home XY endstops )
M18 ( disable stepper motors )
M70 P5 ( We <3 Making Things!)
M72 P1 ( play Ta-Da song )
(**** end of End.gcode ****)
Regarding the height of the first layer (or the raft when it's the first layer) You can tweak the settings of the Printer // Hardware tab. For example: I have set the bed roughness to 0.05mm and the Z offset to -0.05mm, resulting in a little bit 'fatter' first extrusion to press it to the build plate.
You have to 'play with that settings a little I assume.
Hopes this helps a little,
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
RenatoT
- Newbie
- Posts: 7
Hi Bart,
thanks for the info, i read all carefully.. now i'm trying to calibrate the printer with the 20mm cube... but still makerware can print it very good without the raft... with kisslicer it's hard to print the raft.. first 30% of don't attach the plate.
Anyway, i'll continue to learn and try
Thanks
Renato
thanks for the info, i read all carefully.. now i'm trying to calibrate the printer with the 20mm cube... but still makerware can print it very good without the raft... with kisslicer it's hard to print the raft.. first 30% of don't attach the plate.
Anyway, i'll continue to learn and try
Thanks
Renato
Replicator 2 - Salifish 7.5 or original 7.5.
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 292
Hi, do you mind to post the two Gcodes (zipped) of the calibration box from both Makerware and KS?
Is the calibration box looking ok from KS, beside the attaching issue?
I'm pretty sure it's only a (first) layer height 'thingy', maybe I can solve it for you, because I had the same at the beginning: KS seemed to print a bit higher then Makerware regarding the 'Z'. But it can also be a E value problem.
Bart
Is the calibration box looking ok from KS, beside the attaching issue?
I'm pretty sure it's only a (first) layer height 'thingy', maybe I can solve it for you, because I had the same at the beginning: KS seemed to print a bit higher then Makerware regarding the 'Z'. But it can also be a E value problem.
Bart
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
RenatoT
- Newbie
- Posts: 7
Hi
Here attached the 2 files.
many thanks for your time
Renato
Ps, for me colorblind is very hard to read the verification code
Here attached the 2 files.
many thanks for your time
Renato
Ps, for me colorblind is very hard to read the verification code
20mmCube_MakerWare_KissSlicer.zip (52.12 kB - downloaded 1 times.)« Last Edit: December 02, 2013, 05:10:29 PM by RenatoT »
Replicator 2 - Salifish 7.5 or original 7.5.
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
funbart
- Sr. Member
- Posts: 292
Hi, I have compared the two Gcodes: they all start on layer 0.2, so that's good. There is however a big difference between the startGcodes. Maybe because of missing the right positioning, or positioning system it is resulting in a different Z value when actually printing.
So maybe you can make another printer profile in KS with the startGcode of Makerware: copy it in the Ptr Gcode // prefix tab (of course delete the old Gcode in it):
So this Makerware startcode I assume:
M136 (enable build)
M73 P0
G162 X Y F2000(home XY axes maximum)
G161 Z F900(home Z axis minimum)
G92 X0 Y0 Z-5 A0 B0 (set Z to -5)
G1 Z0.0 F900(move Z to '0')
G161 Z F100(home Z axis minimum)
M132 X Y Z A B (Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis)
G92 X152 Y75 Z0 A0 B0
G1 X-141 Y-74 Z40 F3300.0 (move to waiting position)
G130 X20 Y20 A20 B20 (Lower stepper Vrefs while heating)
M135 T0
M104 S230 T0
M133 T0
G130 X127 Y127 A127 B127 (Set Stepper motor Vref to defaults)
En for the endGcode (Postfix)
; End of print
G1 X19.114 Y-1.312 Z20.000 F1500 A1092.14679; Short Retract Extruder: A
M127 T0; fan off
M127 T0 (Fan Off)
M18 A B(Turn off A and B Steppers)
G1 Z155 F900
G162 X Y F2000
M18 X Y Z(Turn off steppers after a build)
M104 S0 T0
M70 P5 (We <3 Making Things!)
M72 P1 ( Play Ta-Da song )
M73 P100
M137 (build end notification)
Because Makerware uses the "A' for extrusion and not the 'E' you can change that as well in KS under Printer//Extruders//Axis.
But a more important difference I saw was in the the amount of extrusion: Makerware uses about 36mm filament for the first layer, but Kisslicer only 28mm. I assume you used the same model, but it's clear to me that's to much difference and is giving a to less extrusion / attaching with KS.
Please check the filament diameter under material settings (measure the filament in various directions with a caliper). Remember that by putting a smaller number under 'diameter' it gives more extrusion -and vice versa-.
You could also flow tweak under the material settings (normally 1) but I don't like it because of uncertain results. However, when you tweak it you have to be in a range of 0.95 - 1.05 or 0.9-1.1 max.
And finally, the most important difference,: I saw that you reset the E value for each layer: that is giving big printing errors with Makerbot: I don't think you have set the Printer // firmware flavor ok.
So please set it to the "5D absolute E no reset (makerbot)" flavor
Hope it helps,
Bart
So maybe you can make another printer profile in KS with the startGcode of Makerware: copy it in the Ptr Gcode // prefix tab (of course delete the old Gcode in it):
So this Makerware startcode I assume:
M136 (enable build)
M73 P0
G162 X Y F2000(home XY axes maximum)
G161 Z F900(home Z axis minimum)
G92 X0 Y0 Z-5 A0 B0 (set Z to -5)
G1 Z0.0 F900(move Z to '0')
G161 Z F100(home Z axis minimum)
M132 X Y Z A B (Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis)
G92 X152 Y75 Z0 A0 B0
G1 X-141 Y-74 Z40 F3300.0 (move to waiting position)
G130 X20 Y20 A20 B20 (Lower stepper Vrefs while heating)
M135 T0
M104 S230 T0
M133 T0
G130 X127 Y127 A127 B127 (Set Stepper motor Vref to defaults)
En for the endGcode (Postfix)
; End of print
G1 X19.114 Y-1.312 Z20.000 F1500 A1092.14679; Short Retract Extruder: A
M127 T0; fan off
M127 T0 (Fan Off)
M18 A B(Turn off A and B Steppers)
G1 Z155 F900
G162 X Y F2000
M18 X Y Z(Turn off steppers after a build)
M104 S0 T0
M70 P5 (We <3 Making Things!)
M72 P1 ( Play Ta-Da song )
M73 P100
M137 (build end notification)
Because Makerware uses the "A' for extrusion and not the 'E' you can change that as well in KS under Printer//Extruders//Axis.
But a more important difference I saw was in the the amount of extrusion: Makerware uses about 36mm filament for the first layer, but Kisslicer only 28mm. I assume you used the same model, but it's clear to me that's to much difference and is giving a to less extrusion / attaching with KS.
Please check the filament diameter under material settings (measure the filament in various directions with a caliper). Remember that by putting a smaller number under 'diameter' it gives more extrusion -and vice versa-.
You could also flow tweak under the material settings (normally 1) but I don't like it because of uncertain results. However, when you tweak it you have to be in a range of 0.95 - 1.05 or 0.9-1.1 max.
And finally, the most important difference,: I saw that you reset the E value for each layer: that is giving big printing errors with Makerbot: I don't think you have set the Printer // firmware flavor ok.
So please set it to the "5D absolute E no reset (makerbot)" flavor
Hope it helps,
Bart
« Last Edit: December 05, 2013, 02:00:37 PM by funbart »
Makerbot Replicator 1 dual
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
Minimalistic Mk8 replacement by Emmett
Sailfish Firmware
Kisslicer Pro 1.1.0 Alpha
RenatoT
- Newbie
- Posts: 7
Hi Bart,
thanks for your help, i appreciate a lot
About the settings you suggested.. my extruder gone out of box
I turn off after 1/10 sec and not damage, it print as usual.
If there is someone that have ready to print setting for the Replicator 2... will be easier ?
regards,
renato
ps. Every time i need to post is necessary the verification? I',m color blind and is very hard to decode the image.
thanks for your help, i appreciate a lot
About the settings you suggested.. my extruder gone out of box
I turn off after 1/10 sec and not damage, it print as usual.
If there is someone that have ready to print setting for the Replicator 2... will be easier ?
regards,
renato
ps. Every time i need to post is necessary the verification?
I',m color blind and is very hard to decode the image.Replicator 2 - Salifish 7.5 or original 7.5.
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
PenskeGuy
- Hero Member
- Posts: 1230
- Any Day I Learn Something New Is A Good Day
Captcha stops after 5 posts.
RenatoT
- Newbie
- Posts: 7
thanks
Replicator 2 - Salifish 7.5 or original 7.5.
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
Kisslicer Pro, Makerware, ReplicatorG
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