Euro Truck Simulator 2 Console Command Repair
Kanisha Dezarn
The first repair was for a friend of mine who lives deep in the woods. Somewhat ironically, his driveway is a very busy place, mainly with wildlife like deer, elk, and the occasional moose. Keeping track of their comings and goings is important for safety; one does not want to surprise a moose, after all. A fair number of cars find their way up his driveway too: most of them are innocent, but occasionally they come with ill intent.
Had a friend with a street-legal dirt bike which would do strange things when riding two-up: it would try to dive to one side and throw people off of it. Really dangerous. He took it to a bunch of local motorbike mechanics and they were stumped. The machine had never been in a wreck, the wheels and frame were true, all these supposedly experienced people were scratching their heads over it. He called me over.
One of the rear shocks was adjusted to maximum tension and the other to minimum tension. I rotated the cam with my hand and it never had that problem again. I was extremely smug towards everyone involved.
We have a BMW mini that has a fairly well known issue with the timing chain tensioner failing causing plastic guides to get smashed by the chain. It is quite an old car and no garage would take on the job because it involved dismantling the engine.
One day I got off work and went out to my truck. It would crank, but not start. I thought it was out of fuel (fuel gauge broken) so went and filled up a 5 gallon can. Nothing. No good. Eventually ran the battery out, tried jumping it. Nothing. Two or 3 hours later, still not working. Then I saw it: the blade fuse sitting in the foot well by the clutch pedal. I looked at the fuse block to see where it came from: IGN.
Had a 2000 Ford Ranger. Intermittent transmission issue where one day would be fine, next day would shift odd and even slam into gear. Gave a code for a speed feedback sensor. Replaced the sensor in the rear differential. Was fine for day or two then was back again but worse and had to leave it at work. Even after swapping back the original which checked okay. decided to have it towed to service shop. After giving up hope, the next day before taking it in I looked under the truck for forgotten tools and caught my eye that the sensor wire was shorting because routed over the leaf spring and wore thru the sheathing. Zip tie and black tape and was back again. Makes me wonder how many expensive bills were out there because of a crappy routing choice.
Yah, they got away with that because early cabin air filters you had to dismantle the whole frigging dash, maybe having to drop the steering column and it was a whole half day or so. Then they started building them more sensible where it was 15 mins to disengage the stops on the glovebox, dropping it all the way down and finding it under there, or other much easier methods. There might still be a few of the nasty old way type around though so if they do a flat fee cabin air filter change fee, they pad it massively to make the $10 15min ones pay for the dash pull.
I had a beater daily driver, 2003 Dodge Stratus. Occasionally the AC would swap from blowing cold to full heat without the dials being adjusted. A simple fix while driving was to give it a very strong love tap and it would switch back to blowing cold. I had the dial module apart 2 times where I would look over all the traces, test the resistance on the dial at all the positions to determine if it was the spring steel was not making contact and never able to find the issue.
On my 3rd try as soon as I got to my workbench, I noticed that the solder joints to the connector had cracked for several pins and a result in the issue. Heated up the soldering iron and had it fixed within 5 minutes of removing the board this time.
I had a car that would work fine, but when driving at night normally after 20 or so miles it would just lose power. For a long time we just accepted it. Drive home from parents, power stopped, find pub, have drink, finish journey. However it was frustrating
In the end I decided I had to do something about it myself. My mother in law had the same model so i opened the bonnet and tried to see if anything was different. I noticed that between the air filter was a small device that did not exist on mine. Further investigation showed it was a air temperature sensor that switched the carburetor air in take so in cold weather it was taken off the hot engine block .
I had a Honda 350-4 Cylinder Motorcycle.. Heavy and Slow.. But I Liked it.. The Guy I purchased it from said it did not run in the rain.. Took it home, Started it, and SOAKED it with a Hose.. Kept Running.. First rain storm I drove in, I ended up pushing it until the rain stopped. After a Few times of this, and Various Troubleshooting Tricks.. I Found it.. Carburetor Ice.. I ended up making some Engine Cylinder Side Panels, that kept the Engine Warmth directed to the Air Box Entrance..
I had to clear some really long waste drain blockage at my sisters house. I uses two sets of rods (>25 meter) to get to the blockage. Managed to clear with the cork screw adaption which broke the blockage and then used the round plunger adaption to draw the shit out. Its a really mucky job requiring two people one to spray water on to the drains rods as you push and pull so you do not get covered in crap. The only satisfaction is watching 3 months worth of shit build up go by. It turns out the blockage is down to a combination of wet wipes from next doors shared drains and tree root infiltrating old clay pipes.
Another nasty variant: bugs that only happen on customer systems and refuse to reproduce ever on the dev environment and then somehow a library being bugged (bonus: bug only happening on one system). Weirdest 2 i got was one where nodejs optimized in(!) a bug and a change where i added a dummy attribute to see where the object was used fixed it for some odd reason and second one where a websocket connection was one-way transmit only (not sure how that is even possible, should have wiresharked it before i nuked the system from orbit and reinstalled to get rid of the bug)
Turns out it was the input for the port side aileron or something simple like that. Once it passed a certain value it set up the fail state in the sim. Someone somewhere fat fingered a syntax error into the code and tacked on too many zeros to the control surface data.
This sounds like wind action on the door. The door is quite large maybe > 5 square meters so any direct force on the door pushes it around and makes the chain slip over the teeth putting it out of line. Next time see if it happens after a set of windy/stormy days.
We eventually had to replace that furnace. You had to have the combustion chamber disassembled once a year to clean the heat exchanger. One of the technicians managed to install a gasket the wrong way around and destroy the combustion chamber.
My car had a small persistent water leak. I had sent it to the garage a number of times. They had inspected it and found no issues, even putting dye in it to no avail. However I have a phobia against water leaks because once i ignored one and it ended up with 2000 worth of damage as it had worn away aluminum block which had to be skimmed, so i was determined to do something about it.
In my last car the heating system had sprung a leak meaning i drove in my own rain shower causing the windscreen to mist up. A mechanic friend of mine said it was not worth fixing since it would involve basically stripping the entire console down (it was a French car), so he said putting rad weld in would fix it. He did so and the issue went away
Anyway I was getting very frustrated with my water leak and refilling it with coolant was costing almost as much as petrol, so i thought put some rad weld in it, what could go wrong? Anyway I checked on the internet and it said it would cause no issues, got the bottle and followed the instructions very carefully.
Everything was fine until 3 days later when driving on the motorway suddenly the temperature gauge went into the red and all sort of warning lights started flashing meaning I had to pull over and call out recovery to tow me home.
There are models of computer that store keys in the secure parts of the firmware (involving things like the TPM) that get used to encrypt the data on the disk and prevent the disk from even working in any other system.
I have that all the time with network management or developing software! The fix is often installing newer software, rebooting, resetting a device etc.
Or with a programming bug a few characters can make all the difference in bringing down and fixing something very complex.
I was running openwrt on a tplink router, I forget why but it needed to reboot often. I found out how to use cron to automatically reboot every night at 4am. No one has noticed a problem since. I have also used a Christmas light timer to reboot a router.
As a fly-in electronics repair tech, I relish the simple fixes, even if they are obvious. It relieves the time pressures and lets you explore the location you find yourself in. It also reminds you to check the simple things first, and verify actions others have taken.
I then reassembled my system and powered up and everything booted fine, I decided to order a new raid array with parity this time, but that hard drive worked for another 3 years before I decommissioned it.
To use the commands in Euro Truck Simulator 2 you will need to activate the console. To start using the codes, open "My Documents" and find the ETS 2 game folder there. It contains the config.cfg file, in which using any text editor you need to change g_console "0" to g_console "1".
All the tricks that give cheats can also be obtained by editing the Euro Truck Simulator 2 files. For this you need the config.cfg document, which is mentioned at the beginning of the article. It contains many parameters that can be edited by changing various features of the ETS 2. Their names coincide with the codes listed in the table above. Change everything you need, save the file and launch the game.
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