editAdded a silkscreen of the board layout and mounting holes. Note as usual if you want mounting holes drilled, you need to drag a hole object from core parts in to the sketch and size it to match the hole you want. By default no holes will be drilled. There are no connectors in pcb as the board connections are screw terminals. Drag a header connector (single pin or 3 pin ) to the position of your choice in the sketch to give connecting points for wires from the screw terminals if you wish to connect them to the board.
Typically the pcb view would use a separate header part to connect the wires to. Or individual pad parts. No pcb pads or holes needed for the module itself. That way, it remains flexible, so different types, sizes, layouts of connectors can used with the single module part.
Took the middle path and added a silkscreen with the board outline and mounting holes (but no connectors.) Drag in a header connector to attach wires to if desired. Note the mounting holes are not drilled you need to drag a hole from core parts in the the sketch over the holes in the silkscreen to actually drill the holes.
The purpose of the relay is that I have an hikvision doorbell with camera (represented by the push button in the drawing), When the button is pressed I wanted to be able to let any bell ring (represented by the buzzer in the drawing). That works now thanks to an optocoupler in the design. Before adding that it was very sensitive to small signals.
Hello,
Can you help me to find the way to correctly connect a Mini Maestro 18-Channel with a Mini Maestro 12-Channel together ? Because i need 27 channel in total.
Thanks you for helping.
Regards,
The TX pin of your main controller should connect to the RX pin on each Maestro board, then the TX pin of the second Maestro should connect to the TXIN pin of the first, and the TX pin of the first Maestro should connect back to the RX pin of the main controller. You will also need a common ground connection.
If you are still unsure, even a hand-drawn wiring digram, or a crude one made in a program like Paint, would probably be enough to tell if something were wrong. Also, as I mentioned in my previous post, if you post pictures of your actual setup before you power it on, I would be happy to check it.
It looks like you do not have a separate microcontroller (such as an Arduino) pictured in your diagram; could you describe in more detail how you are trying to use those Maestros? Are you trying to control one Maestro from the other?
It is not entirely clear to me how you want to use the toggle switch, current sensor, voltage sensor, or relay switch. If you can describe how you want them to work, and post details about those other boards (such as links to their product pages or documentation), I could probably help point you in the right direction.
I cannot say for sure if everything will work how you intend since you have not described what you are trying to do with those extra boards (or supply information about how they work), but I think the general layout mostly looks okay. Here are a couple of things I noticed:
Your current sensor and voltage sensor should not output more than 5V to the Maestro signal pins; if they output higher than 5V, you might consider using a voltage divider to reduce the maximum voltage down to an appropriate voltage.
A 2S LiPo battery can be upwards of 8.4V when fully charged, which might be a little bit high for your servos, so you might double check that your servos can handle that voltage (especially before connecting all 18).
It is not clear to me if the + pins on your sensors and relay switch are inputs or outputs. If they are all inputs, then it does not look like you are supplying any external power to the + rail on the 12-channel Maestro, so they will not be powered. If one of them is an output, then you would be powering the other boards from that one. If more than one of them is an output, then you would be shorting them together.
thank you for the feedback !
the better description i can do is the link i paste in a previews post. I want to make a Hexapod like the Youtube link and i try to redo the same as the guy shows in the video.
It still is not clear to me what you want the relay, current sensor, and voltage sensor to do, so I cannot make any meaningful assessment of that part of the diagram. Could you explain what you want them to do? As I mentioned before, a link to their specifications or product pages would also be very helpful.
By the way, it looks like you are planning to power a lot of servos from your step-down regulator. I suspect it will not be able to handle the combined current draw, but that will probably depend on other factors of your system, like how many servos you expect to be powered and loaded at the same time. We generally recommend choosing a regulator that can handle the maximum potential current draw (i.e. the combined stall current of the servos). If your regulator is not powerful enough to do that, you might consider seeing if any of our step-down regulators would be more appropriate.
Right now, it looks like your relay is only going to disconnect the ground from the servo power rail of the 18-channel Maestro; however, please note that the board is still grounded through the GND pin next to the VIN pin, so the relay will not disconnect power to the Maestro or servos.
Aside from connections, I suggest you double check all of your power considerations. As I mentioned before, you should make sure your regulator can handle the combined current draw of all of your servos. If you do not know the max current draw of each of your servos, we generally recommend budgeting around 1A per standard servo. Similarly, the 5V pin on the 12-channel Maestro might not be powerful enough to handle your relay, current sensor, voltage sensor, and 6 touch sensors, as it only has around 20mA of current available.
Ultimately, I suggest you start much smaller and built up to a bigger system. For example, start with getting 1 Maestro and 1 servo working from your phone. When you get that working, you can add a couple more servos. If that works as expected, add the second Maestro and 1 sensor, etc.
As I mentioned in my last post, I highly suggest starting very slowly, with only one or two components at a time and adding more as you go; not only would that help reduce the chance of a catastrophic failure that damages large portions of your system, but if you do encounter a problem, it can help identify the cause of it.
As you are used to, I always illustrate my projects with a scheme made in Fritzing. The standard components are usually present in the default software. But often enough there are components not present. I then make these components myself. Because I have added a whole series again, I wanted to share my own new library, and here they are.
The Arduino Nano is a small, complete, and breadboard-friendly board based on the ATmega328 (Arduino Nano 3.x). It has more or less the same functionality of the Arduino Duemilanove, but in a different package. It lacks only a DC power jack, and works with a Mini-B USB cable instead of a standard one.
FTDI Adapter FT232RL USB naar TTL Serial voor 3.3V en 5V compatibe. When programming a regular arduino board, a USB cable is enough. But when rolling out your own standalone arduino circuits, it soon becomes as hassle to plug the ATmega chip into an Arduino board, or use a breadboard setup for the chip and use the Arduino as a programmer. An easy alternative is to equip your custom circuit with a header for connecting an FTDI Adapter.
Relay module 2 channel 5V. The relays on this module can be controlled with a 5V signal from an Arduino or other microcontroller. By means of the relays it is possible to switch between alternating voltage (max. 230V) and direct voltage (max. 30V) up to 10A. With handy screw terminals for connecting the device to be switched. The relay has a normally open and normally closed contact.
ESP32-CAM camera OV2640 2MP. A full ESP32 module with camera and Micro SD card slot. Programmable via the Arduino IDE (AI Thinker ESP32-CAM in the board manager). The OV2640 camera module has a 1/4 inch CMOS UXGA (1632 x 1232 pixels) image sensor. It is very small in size and has a low operating voltage of 1.7 to 3.3V. Camera is supplied separately and can be mounted by sliding the black part of the camera connector upwards. There is no USB serial chip on the board and it can only be programmed with a 3.3V serial converter. The pins can only handle 3.3V logic, these are connected directly to the ESP32.
Just as small. Five times as fast. At the heart of Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W is RP3A0, a custom-built system-in-package designed by Raspberry Pi in the UK. With a quad-core 64-bit ARM Cortex-A53 processor clocked at 1GHz and 512MB of SDRAM, Zero 2 is up to five times as fast as the original Raspberry Pi Zero. Wireless LAN is built in to a shielded enclosure with improved RF compliance, giving you more flexibility when designing with Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W. All in the same tiny 65mm 30mm form factor.
This is ESP WROOM 32/ ESP32 WiFi-BT-BLE MCU Module. ESP WROOM 32 is a powerful, generic WiFi-BT-BLE MCU module that targets a wide variety of applications, ranging from low-power sensor networks to the most demanding tasks, such as voice encoding, music streaming, and MP3 decoding. At the core of this module is the ESP32 chip, which is designed to be scalable and adaptive. There are 2 CPU cores that can be individually controlled or powered, and the clock frequency is adjustable from 80 MHz to 240 MHz.
This is a BH1750 light intensity sensor breakout board with a 16 bit AD converter built-in which can directly output a digital signal, there is no need for complicated calculations. This is a more acurate and easier to use version of the simple LDR which only outputs a voltage that needs to be calculated in order to obtain meaningful data. With the BH1750 Light Sensor intensity can be directly measured by the luxmeter, without needing to make calculations. The data which is output by this sensor is directly output in Lux (Lx). When objects which are lighted in homogeneous get the 1 lx luminous flux in one square meter ,their light intensity is 1lx. Sometimes to take good advantage of the illuminant, you can add a reflector to the illuminant.So that there will be more luminous flux in some directions and it can increase the ilumination of the target surface.
3a8082e126