Re: Hdmi Vs Component 720p 21
Katja Gains
I have the Roku Express Model 3930CA. I want to connect it to a 20-year-old rear-projection TV. The TV has no HDMI so I want to use an HDMI to Component adapter. When I connected everything, the screen looked like this:
I can recognize the screen but it's unviewable. Because I couldn't set Roku up on the TV, I connected it to my computer monitor because it has an HDMI port. When the system sent me an activation email, I had a problem. My only computer with email is my desktop which I disconnected from the monitor so I could setup the Roku. When I clicked "Activate", the Roku wasn't connected at that moment and I think the account didn't activate.
Yeah, that image doesn't look like the correct refresh rate, and if it's set to PAL that could be the cause. Also be aware that your TV very likely doesn't support 1080p (most all of those old rear projection sets supported 1080i). If the TV doesn't support 720p (again, some from that era only support 1080i or 575p in a digital connection) you might simply be out of luck getting the correct display.
Many of those old sets had a DVI input, and a simple DVI to HDMI adapter cable will work. But again, the TV would have to support 720p in the DVI input (DVI is digital, just like HDMI, just no audio path). No Roku device available that is still supported (other than the Express+ 3710/3910) has the ability to output an analog signal. And frankly an SD analog signal probably isn't going to look very good on that set.
As you'll see, the adapter was very basic. No NTSC/PAL switch. Not much to adjust at all. You just connect everything and it works or doesn't. I contacted the vendor who responded promptly but said he didn't know what was wrong.
As it happens, the TV has the DVI port and I had an HDMI>>Component adapter plug. But the screen image was just as bad. I didn't take a picture but everything was blurry and out of focus so that I could only guess what the buttons on the Setup screen actually said. And that's why I used my computer monitor instead.
For this TV, it's only being used to watch movies on DVDs. An SD image will still be better than what I've seen so far. There is another adapter I was looking at on Amazon but, not knowing what the current problem is, I didn't want to buy it.
OK, I would have expected a product like that to work. Remember that when the HDMI is converted to component, you now have an analog signal, not digital. The DVI connection remains in the digital realm, so what's likely happening there is the Roku is sending a 1080p signal and the TV can't process it. The analog/component connection should not have that issue, but for whatever reason the TV isn't processing it. And my guess is it's the TV's issue, not the converter.
I was able to find a manual online, and it confirmed what I feared. The DVI connection only supports 1080i and 480p, and the Roku doesn't support either resolution. Why the component converter isn't working I can't say. But my guess is it can't properly convert the Roku signal correctly.
hey david, i had the same problem when trying to connect an HDMI only cable box to an old projection tv. i ended up not being able to use the tv after going through 2 hdmi to component converters. i did get it to work on another old tube tv at one point. but i am trying to do what you're doing now. i have a roku express+ that i have connected to a very old tv using just AV out, but the picture quality is not great. it has 1080i capability. i just tried using the 2 converters in this case, but actually got the same results you did too. i might play around a little more to see if i can get it to work. i'll let you know if i do. i hope you'll post if you get yours to work or another solution.
The only Rokus I see with component came out in 2009 and 2010 and they were last updated to Roku OS 3.1. (12 is the current version.) I would not recommend bothering to find one of these. They probably do very little if anything today.
Thanks for the reply! I left out some info on my original post, but my RNG 150 is for my second TV in my media room setup - it works great for channel surfing on a second set while my X1 DVR is my main set - but the 150 is old enough that it DOES have component outs. My Arris X1 DVR does NOT. So I used it to see what the component out looked like. But it was NOT as good as my In-Laws'. I realize picture quality is subjective but trust me - his old gear looks incredible using component compared to my 150 with component or my Arris with HDMI. Everyone says HDMI is better but there is something about their setup that looks awesome compared to mine! I've checked ALL TV and cable box settings but no luck! Just wondering if any experts have any theories. Thanks for any replies!!
Technically, the connection type is unlikely to be the source of the quality difference. Samsung makes TV models across the quality range and some of their older ones were pretty good. Sometimes you can find reviews on to compare models. They may also suggest the best settings to improve the video.
Most Xfinity content is going to be broadcast at 720p, except perhaps local stations that might still be 1080i. Either your X1 box or the TV will upscale this to 1080p for display. One or the other might be better at it, so you could try setting 720p output on the X1 vs 1080p for comparison.
when a new HDMI device is attached to a TV via HDMI, the TV should be set up for the best image (TV picture menu: brightness/contrast/gamma/sharpness, etc). these are stored by the TV per the device 'id'. If you replace an X1 set top box just review the settings to get best image. youtube and netflix have various testing videos. note that the videos train in the first minute or so increasing bit rate and resolution. after that time has passed proceed to follow the adjustment process.
I am embarrased to admit, but it had nothing to do with the component connect. After seeing the consensus that HDMI will always be better, I re-dug into my settings and found that having the Samsung TV picture on DYNAMIC, (along with sharpness high and backlight & brightness in just the right place,) the image really "jumps" out at you! I know that I tried every combination of settings when I first setup the TV, but the dynamic image will look great on only certain channels so I must have missed it at first. Sorry for the error and thanks for the replies!
Except... the X1 set-top box (my X1... XG2v2-P) doesn't have 5-connector Component jacks on the rear panel, only 3-connector Composite jacks... and, of course, an HDMI jack. I wish Comcast would explain that decision.
Except... the X1 set-top box (my X1... XG2v2-P) doesn't have 5-connector Component jacks on the rear panel, only 3-connector Composite jacks... and, of course, an HDMI jack. Talk about ruining a "wet dream"! I wish Comcast would explain that decision.
Hardly any recently-designed set top boxes provide component cables these days. Aside from the extra cost for something rarely needed, content owners really want to lock things down to the content protection scheme that HDMI provides or scale back the resolution with composite output.
Probably the most budget-conscious, but reliable, solution for getting video from a computer into Vidiot can be to convert to VGA and use an Extron VSC 500 to then convert into composite. You can pick those up used on Ebay for around $50 (or less if you wait for a good deal).
I just started using a Retro Tink 2x-pro for converting my vidiot to hdmi output.
RetroTINK Home RetroTINK LLCRetroTINK helps connect retro consoles to modern displays and more. Our line of products converts legacy video formats with high quality and minimal visual distortion for the most authentic experience.
Following up on this, so that HDMI > Component converter that others had recommended (above) turned out to be a bit of a bummer for me as a principal intended use was to feed digital cameras with 16:9 HDMI output into my system. But that box only seems to squish 16:9 to 4:3 and offer no option for cropping.
Decided to try another solution and ended up with something that is working for me thus far, a Blackmagic HDMI to SDI micro converter paired with an AJA HD10MD3. The AJA box outputs component or composite and will crop or letterbox. Bought those both on Ebay and I think it was a little more than $80 total, incl. all taxes and shipping (had to wait a bit to find decent deals on each).
Being an STF it has no rf so that was always an issue. Back a number of years ago I got a hold of a box from Sal Esquivel that pushed the STF to component. Well, this box was extremely picky on what TVs it would work on. I ended up getting a smaller Sharp television that worked with it but then I read that that box may have been causing damage to the ST itself.
It still only outputs a 15khz signal. This has been the crux of the issue. Would a box like the Retro-tink/ossc box be able to upscale the signal to a kHz my tv can display? I am not overly worried about Hi-res just low and medium.
I use my STe with my OSSC using a ST SCART cable input and HDMI output. It gives beautifully crystal clear pictures that work on any HDMI capable display that I've thrown it at. I can still use the VGA input of my OSSC with a monochrome cable with a switch to use high resolution if I want to, but I rarely use high resolution. The OSSC is expensive, but it really can't be beat in terms of image quality and features.
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