How To Use Motomaster Nautilus Battery Charger

[Kenneth Melniczek]

Yourcharger requires a 120 V AC electrical wall outlet receptacle installed according to local codes and ordinances.USING AN EXTENSION CORD

An extension cord should not be used unless absolutely necessary. Use of an improper extension cord could result in a risk of fire and electric shock. If an extension cord must be used, make sure:

FOLLOW THESE STEPS WHEN BATTERY IS OUTSIDE VEHICLE.

WARNING: A SPARK NEAR THE BATTERY MAY CAUSE A BATTERY EXPLOSION. TO REDUCE THE RISK OF A SPARK NEAR THE BATTERY:

If a lead-acid battery is left sitting in a low state of charge, or is deeply discharged, or is never given the opportunity to fully charge, it can suffer capacity loss due to sulphation and/or stratification. Such a battery can appear to have a normal open circuit voltage and yet it will have a noticeable drop in performance. Using Reconditioning mode may help to reverse the affects of sulphation and stratification, restoring lost battery capacity.

To maximize battery life and performance, Recondition your battery once per year or after deep discharges. For best results, take the battery through a normal full charge cycle before using this mode. A Reconditioning charge can take up to 4 hours to complete.CAUTION: USE THIS MODE WITH CARE. RECONDITIONING USES A HIGH CHARGING VOLTAGE AND MAY CAUSE WATER LOSS IN THE BATTERY. IT IS BEST SUITED FOR WET (FLOODED) BATTERIES WITH REMOVABLE VENT CAPS WHICH ALLOWS FOR WATER LEVELS TO BE TOPPED UP. RECONDITIONING IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR AGM OR GEL BATTERIES. TO MINIMUM RISK OF HIGH VOLTAGE TO SENSITIVE ELECTRONICS, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FROM THE VEHICLE (OR ANY OTHER EQUIPMENT) WHEN USING THIS MODE.

STAGE 1 DESULPHATION*

Pulses of voltage and current help recover sulphated or deeply discharged batteries.

STAGE 2 SOFT START*

Gently introduces current to condition deeply discharged batteries and prevent overheating that could damage the battery.

STAGE 3 BULK

Charging with maximum current to bring the battery to about 80% capacity.

STAGE 4 ABSORPTION

Charging with constant voltage while reducing current to safely bring the battery to 100% capacity. This stage is key to maximizing battery performance and battery life.

STAGE 5 ANALYZE

Tests if battery is holding charge.

STAGE 6 MAINTENANCE

Monitors battery voltage and provides top-up charging when necessary to keep battery fully charged.

* If necessary

Here's a tip if you own or have ever owned one of these. A few years back - about 7 - I bought one of these and it performed well. Lasted a long time, but as with any rechargeable eventually died (5 years or so) I bought another one because I like the fact it's portable with a built in charger and the accessories have proved useful over time. The second one died in 2 years! (and I cared for it properly) So I bought another just before my last fishing trip, but before leaving I was talking to a sales guy from the Interstate Battery Store in Mississauga. He said instead of buying the whole unit we should just rebuild it. I went home, took it apart, and pulled the battery out to see if he had something similar. Sure enough he did, but when I sent him the picture and specs here's what he said:

"Thanks for the pictures and spec sheet, it was very helpful.

Our equivalent of that battery is the SLA1156. It is a a 12V 35Ah battery, which means it has a slightly higher capacity than your OEM one. HOWEVER...the one in the picture and the equivalent are NOT deep cycle batteries. They are rechargeable but are more for stand by use where they are used briefly on occasion. They are not designed to be deeply discharged day after day like a wheelchair or for the circumstances you described.

The deep cycle one is DCM0035. It is also a 12V 35Ah battery but it is a true deep cycle battery. This is far and away the best (better) option for you. If you continue to take care of it the way you did with your OEM battery I see no reason why you couldn't double the service life.

The SLA1156 and DCM0035 retail for $104.99 and $125.95 in our store."

I took some doing and a little persistance, but the rebuild is complete. Also, I believe it's actually a better battery than the original from 7 years ago. I took the new one I purchased back for a refund - saved a ton of cash! I ended up using the rebuilt one a lot, and barely made a dent in the available power according to the built in digital display - recharged no problem to full capacity overnight, ready to use the next day. I ran a Minnkota and Humminbird on it. Recently my car died and used it to boost, no issues.

There are situations where a 'smart' battery charger won't recognize a battery because the battery is deeply discharged. Some chargers have a relatively high voltage threshhold. Remember, a 12 volt battery (adjust numbers for 6 volt, etc.) is effectively discharged at 11.9 to 12 volts (fully charged is 12.72 volts). A battery can be drawn lower than this, particularly if allowed to remain totally discharged for extended periods. This is not particularly good for battery health, and may in fact destroy the battery, but that is not for this discussion.

Some of the more common 'floating chargers' for vehicle or other battery maintenance, have threshhold voltages between 8 and 11 volts. If your battery voltage is below the particular level of your charger, the charger won't acknowledge a viable battery hookup, and won't pass current. Some chargers indicate a fault mode (continuous flashing), and others just don't do anything. Some charger manufacturers don't consider a battery below their threshhold voltage as worth recharging (they're not necessarily correct). Some, particularly marine battery chargers, are designed to check for battery voltage before passing voltage/current to prevent sparks, in case the charger is plugged in without being connected to a battery, when there may be a gas buildup in the compartment. All of our chargers have very low threshholds, and will charge deeply discharged batteries.

There are a couple of ways to get around this, to see if your battery will recover and take some charge. It still may have to be desulfated later. First, a non-intelligent charger, like you had in your garage 25 years ago, may be used with supervision, to cram some current into the battery, which will raise battery voltage. This is another case for having a decent digital voltmeter around the shop/house. You can keep checking the battery until it has enough voltage to register on the 'smart' charger, then let the smart charger take over. If you have golf cart type 6 volt batteries, you can series a pair (positive to negative) to look like a 12 volt battery, and use a 12 volt charger as above. Second method, if you don't have a 'dumb' charger: parallel a second battery (positive to positive, negative to negative) that you know to be recognized by the charger, with the bad battery, and attach the charger. After the charger has a while to put some current back, disconnect the good battery. It may take a time or two to get the charger to stay running. What you don't want to do is leave both batteries connected for a long time, as the good battery will end up overcharged. So, both methods require supervision.

Those of you following my recent posts may know I recently bought a 16' boat and 25 HP motor. So far I've gotten away with a lawn tractor 12 V battery, which is basically used only to crank start a cold motor if I am not mistaken. I also have a 55lbs thrust electric trolling motor that I have not yet used and will be using my fish finder regularly. I realize that when I do use the trolling motor, it will draw a lot from that little battery (the finder probably a lot less). In my case, where I am basically starting a motor, running a trolling motor (occasionally) and fish finder (regularily), what is the best option for an all around battery or should I get a deep cycle battery for this setup/application in addition to a cranking battery? I'd rather keep it to one battery. Can I cold start of a deep cycle so I can keep it to one battery? What options should I consider?

I use one deep cycle group 27 to run everything in the boat, lights, radio, fish finder and downriggers. I've got an F40 yamaha and it charges the battery while running. If I was to add an electric trolling motor, I would most likely add another deep cycle just for that.

Thanks. So you also use that deep cycle to start the motor? I only have the trolling motor and fishfinder in terms of electronics. I wonder if a group 27 is adequate for this two things ? I always thought a deep ccle marine was for electrical components only.

Thanks Akrisoner. But if I'm running the finder off of one battery and and the trolling motor off another, what am I starting the motor with? And are the nautilus batteries from CTC deep cycle? Thanks.

your electronics battery is your starting battery. Hence you want enough juice to do both. A group 27 easily provides that. If you are really hardcore running livescope and 3 units, livewells for 13 hours all day and trying to turn over a 200+hp engine you need a group 31.

AGM batteries are a different tech, they provide huge reserve capacity and big time cold cranking amps. The best of both worlds. The Canadian Tire Nautilus AGM batteries are made by east penn deka battery...they are the absolute top of the line battery you can buy with a really great price and warranty.

For reference on my skeeter last year due to space limitations I was tournament fishing running livescope two 9 inch garmins a helix 7 and livewells with the xd group 27...did multiple 13 hour days like that without issue.

3a8082e126