New site at Nagarkot closed for climbing

[jon]

Dear all,

The army has decided not let people climb at Nagarkot - Killer Turn anymore.

Satyagraha* (7b+) and Right side* (7a) on the higher crag, and The Arrete* (7a), Crimps on slab (6c), Back to the Roots* (6a+), Dyno-Sore (6c+) and Some More Crack (6c+? unclimbed so far due to unprotected dangerous move) on the lower crag are therefore not climbable anymore. The new rule is that you need to register with a trekking company and get a permit from the army Head Quarter in Kathmandu (ask for the climbers' desk!!!).

(* bolted for lead climbing; others top roping only)

There are four boulders down the road that have been cleaned and opened: big one next to the house down the cliff with 4 different variations (6a to 6c), Black Slabbath a bit further (4 routes, bolts for top roping 6b to 7a), Tired but synchronised (7c???) just below, and Jungle Boulder (3 routes 6c to 7a+) a 3 min walk in the forest down the trail.

There is another long crag that has been bolted in the village below, another 15 min away: the right side offers a nice 6c (but the bolting is dangerous: careful!), while the rest, despite being aphazardly bolted, is hardly climbable past the first 8 meters (perhaps an 8c in the middle???). The owner asks 400 Rs for climbing, a practice better not to encourage.

There are still plenty of nice sandstone boulders to be cleaned and opened in the forest, but losing the two main crags, the place loses a lot of interests...

Jon

[Initiative Bouldering Gym]

Hello Jon,

This is Calvin at Initiative Outdoor. I want to start organizing a Nepali Climbers Coalition so we can ban together as a community and present reasonable management plans that include meaningful fees, trail/crag maintenance and ensure access to climbers with out permits. It seems like a big task but I want to start organizing and gaining sponsorship from companies/organizations to better our chances when communicating our needs to local/government/army officials. 

Maybe we can meet sometime soon if you are in the Kathmandu area? And then we can organize a community meeting for climbers to meet at Basecamp or somewhere to discuss and share solutions to the issues?

Let me know what you think,

Calvin

Assistant Instructor and Climbing Guide

Initiative Outdoor 

Outdoor Leadership School