Additionally, it should NEVER choose any other quality than the last selected. It is utterly annoying having to change quality, reload the page and then make sure the quality doesn't change on it's own, before getting to watch streams.
This is annyoing as ****, and as said before Firefox does not support / do this when changing tabs. The biggest gripe is that when you are listening to a stream the audio quality degrades also at the same time when the video lowers to 160-360p. Please find a solution to end this nonsense.
Edge is chromium. Most browsers are built on the same platform as chrome. Firefox, which is a totally different platform, I can confirm does not have this behavior. It does appear to be an issue with chromium.
It's a Chrome thing; this issue comes back from time to time and showed up today, setting video to 480p then after 4-5 min it switches back to source and goes back to 480p when you give tab/window focus.
Another issue that popped up at the same time is the left panel; you click to show more followed channels and, when you scroll up to reach the top, if you happen cross the panel "thin scroll bar" with your mouse cursor it will go back all the way down, very annoying.
How is this still a thing in 2024, so frustrating. I have a multiscreen setup and if i don't have the twitch window active it goes to 360p. This alone frustrates me enough to go watch youtube videos instead.
2024 and this is still an issue...
I have a limited amount of internet data per month so I tend to keep streams set at a lower quality. Often, when I go to a different tab, the streams end up switching themselves back to full quality, which is counter intuitive
100% I have an older device, but still want to watch muiltiple streams. Only way to do that is lowering the resolution. Everytime they change the rez every 30 seconds to max just cause I switched tabs. It puts my whole device at risk of crashing and ALL the tabs start buffering simply cause 1 tab is changing back and forth. Even tho I have them all set to a specific resolution, not auto.
February 2024, streams change quality to either 160p or Source if they are not the main tab for more than a couple minutes. Terrible. There's reasons that I set streams to 480p or 720p instead of keeping it on Auto. Please prevent this from happening!
This "feature" is so annoying that I just steer clear of twitch. Don't go the youtube route of making your service so unbearable to use that people avoid it like the plague. Do better. Make a service YOU would be happy using.
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Setup seems to work normally and the camera connects and generates picture - but only at 720x480 (or 720x576 in PAL video mode). Nothing I have tried so far has successfully raised the resolution, whether it's manually setting the output to 1080p in the camera settings menu (and toggling HDR on and off), or manually forcing the OBS Cam Link capture dialog into a higher resolution (I've tried 1920 x 1080, 1920 x 1200 and 1920 x 1280, none work). The only available preset option when "Custom" is selected in the Camlink dialog are either 720x480 or 720x576 - depending on whether NTSC or PAL video is selected in the camera setup menu.
Anyone any pointers? One obvious questionmark is whether the micro-HDMI to HDMI cable I'm using is faulty in some way. It shouldn't be - it's brand new and rated for 4K60, and I don't have an alternative to try, nor do I have any other devices with a m-HDMI output to test it with.
Well well, @Stephen and @p4pictures, thanks much for the suggestions and input. Problem now solved, and the cause *was* the micro-HDMI to HDMI cable. Swapped to a different one and the camera now defaults to 1920x1080P output to every device I've connected it to - including the Cam Link. The menus and on-screen display sit within the 16x9 frame as expected, and I'm now exactly where I want to be in terms of clean output once the OSD and autofocus are disabled.
So for anyone reading this thread in future, if your camera is stuck at artificially low resolution via HDMI like mine was, check your cable. Even though the one I was using was rated well in excess of Full HD data rate, it clearly isn't (or is somehow mangling the EDID data) and will be going back to the supplier tomorrow. Oh, and if anyone on this forum tells you that high resolution output on this camera is not supported, they're demonstrably incorrect. Keep working at the problem and you'll get it fixed
Thanks, but it's not a limit of the camera. If it was, Canon (and Elgato) wouldn't advertise 4K30 and 1080P60 compatibility through HDMI - and others wouldn't already be utililising this functionality as a pseudo-clean HDMI output (albeit autofocus needs to be disabled to remove the focus markers from the video).
Er, thanks, I think. I did clearly mention above that a pseudo-clean output *is* possible by disabling all the on-screen icons - and autofocus. I'm not making this as a random claim, it's well known and is documented and seen working elsewhere in this forum as well as widely over social media - and on Elgato's own website: You trying to tell me otherwise says more about you than it does about the camera - or this particular issue:
The specific issue here is the inability to get anything higher than 576p output from the HDMI port under *any* circumstances - to any device, clean or not, whether shooting or when reviewing/playing back imagery, despite the manual (and setup menu) clearly indicating that this *is* supported.
Your camera doesn't have the hardware for Clean HDMI Out. You simply can't add it via a firmware update. So if you want Clean HDMI Out you will need to look into a camera that supports it. Its impossible for your camera to output 2 different resolutions at the same time without Clean HDMI Out. Clean HDMI Out requires the hardware for that. Most EVFs and LCD screens are very low resolutions that you wouldn't expect from modern devices. Most camera LCD screens have resolution of 480p (640x480). This is what's called VGA (Video Graphics Array) it dates back to 1987. Most devices today are 1080p or 4K displays now 480p this is quite low by modern standards. Yes even in PAL regions 480p 60 fps was used for computer displays not 576p 50 fps. CRT computer monitors did NOT use interlaced video either. Those displays natively displayed things in a progressive video format. The whole frame was drawn on the screen. Instead of 1/2 then the other 1/2 was drawn like with analog TV NTSC or PAL.
I haven't mentioned "adding something via firmware update". And, with the best will in the world, I might be new here but I'm neither new to photography or computing so the history lesson's both irrelevant, and nothing to do with the issue at hand.
Again, for want of being any more specific, my camera *does* and should support 1080P output via the HDMI port. The issue is that it's only delivering 480p or 576p (depending on the PAL or NTSC video setting) and I'd like to get to the bottom of why. Does anyone actually have anything constructive to add on *this* point?
Wadizzle: The entry on Elgato's site is *not* a typo. The fact that it's related specifically to the original M50 and not the MkII is obvious from the reference to disabling autofocus to get the clean output. Also the pair of you: If you don't think clean output on the original M50 is possible, this guy here would like to show you otherwise (including the exact context).
What you're trying to get your camera to do IS NOT SUPPORTED we have had numerous forums asking about this. It's simply NOT possible with your current camera. Also this supposed "Clean HDMI Out" with the M50 (original version) is NOT really Clean HDMI Out. This is because AF is disabled so you're relying on MF. Using your camera for long periods of time in Live View. Can overheat the image sensor and IS NOT a mode of supported operation. So take @Waddizzle (Bill's) advice you can't make something work that wasn't there in the first place. Most cameras that DO NOT support Clean HDMI Out will only output 480p/ 576p. This is because the camera doesn't have the ability to send each display there native resolution. Thus the camera is forced to use 480p/ 576p and compromise between both displays. If the camera did support Clean HDMI Out then it could output 1080p or 720p to the external monitor.
First of all, @deebatman316 you are again introducing irrelevances via the line about extended live view usage potentially overheating the sensor. Aside from the fact that this is just as much a risk as when using the camera for extended periods of videography (which Canon sells and warrants it for), I'm not bothered about any of that, and you aren't either, both because you don't know the usage pattern, and it's not your camera anyway.
The image sensor will get exactly the same amount of continuous use whether I'm shooting video to the built-in SD card, or whether I'm outputting video to a computer in real time so quit that one, it's not getting you (or me) anywhere.
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