Dale Carson, Abenaki, is the author of three books: New Native American
Cooking, Native New England Cooking and A Dreamcatcher Book. She has
written about and demonstrated Native cooking techniques for more than
30 years. Dale has four grown children and lives with her husband in
Madison, Connecticut.
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-oysters-126778
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Dale Carson's Ode to Oysters By Dale Carson August 11, 2012 RSS
<
http://indiancountr ytodaymedianetwo rk.com/rssfeeds> [An oyster
from the restaurant Frantzen Lindberg in Stockolm. This chilled oyster
is served with a sour apple frosting and juniper cream—a mouthful of
gastronomic pleasure. (Courtesy
oysterstew.co. uk)] An oyster from
the restaurant Frantzen Lindberg in Stockolm. This chilled oyster is
served with a sour apple frosting and juniper cream—a mouthful of
gastronomic pleasure. (Courtesy
oysterstew.co. uk)
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story [ Dale Carsons Ode to Oysters]
Dale Carson
The delicious shellfish I loved growing up has a long and vast global
history. Today, both wild and cultivated—or sustainably
raised—oysters are a treasured culinary
<
http://indiancountr ytodaymedianetwo rk.com/2012/ 08/11/dale- carsons-ode- t\
o-oysters-126778#> favorite.
Denmark is believed to hold the largest shellfish heap in the world,
largely due to the quantity of oyster shells. Oysters were, and still
are, a Native American favorite as evidenced by a shell heap in Maine
estimated at seven million bushels. Native oyster-use on both coasts
indicates, pre-Columbus, people only cooked the bi-valve, regularly
enjoying oyster stew. They were eaten raw later.
Europe has a gluttonous history with oysters. The Romans ate dozens at a
time. Henry IV of England was said to have eaten 300 as an appetizer
daily. Casanova reportedly ate 50 a day. By the mid-19th Century, supply
was running low in Europe—as it was in North America. The
oyster's fame was at a pinnacle. In 1880, we were harvesting fifteen
times more oysters in Delaware Bay than we are today. Abraham Lincoln
often had oyster parties at his home in Illinois. Starting in 1842
oysters were brought by wagons across the country, packed with damp
straw or ice. Oyster houses were established in major coastal cities
offering "all you can eat for six cents."
When the Dutch "bought" Manhattan island, they also took Oyster
Island, known today as Ellis Island. The six cent price was pretty
standard for a while, until the Gold
<
http://indiancountr ytodaymedianetwo rk.com/2012/ 08/11/dale- carsons-ode- t\
o-oysters-126778#> Rush caused the cost to skyrocket—at least in
San Francisco—to $20 a plate. Many of the west coast oysters also
came from Washington State. West coast oysters are generally larger than
the Atlantic coast. It was once remarked that eating an American oyster
was like swallowing a baby.
In the United States today, there are three major species that are
harvested commercially, yet all sold under different names regionally.
Olympic oysters are medium-sized. They come from Puget Sound and run
about an inch and a half.
Pacific (also known as Japanese) oysters can run up to a foot long.
Eastern (Atlantic) oysters—Bluepoint being the most popular—are
considered the most flavorful and briny.
What's all the fuss about? For centuries, oysters have maintained a
reputation for being an aphrodisiac, which is not all hype. They contain
a high amount of zinc—an essential mineral for male potency; it is
said to enhance the male sex drive. Oysters are also an excellent source
of iron with 15.6 mg per cup raw; they are aso high in calcium, niacin
and protein.
Back in the day, I was always told not to buy or eat shellfish in a
month without an "r" in it. But this myth is now debunked due to
refrigeration and better handling and shipping. Whether you like them
raw on the half shell, batter-fried, grilled, steamed, baked,
smoked—or a host of other preparations— there is nothing like
their bright, unique taste.
Mama's Oyster Stew
1 dozen fresh oysters, plus their liquid
2 tablespoons butter, no substitutes
1-1/2 cups half and half, or light cream (you can substitute milk)
1 dash Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
Melt the butter on very low heat and add the oysters. Don't walk
away but watch the oysters carefully until their edges start to curl, it
happens quickly. Now add the half and half, cream or milk slowly and let
simmer, never boil. Add salt, Worchestershire and pepper and serve.
Note: Mom always served this with oyster crackers or saltines if we were
out of crackers.
Scalloped Oysters
1 quart of oysters plus their liquid
1 stick unsalted butter
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup fresh, soft breadcrumbs
1 cup crushed saltines
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
1 tablespoon minced fresh curley parsley
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
2 tablespoons dry sherry
4 tablespoons heavy cream
½ teaspoon, or 2 dashes, hot pepper sauce
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees
Using a large skillet, melt the butter and add the garlic to it, cooking
for about 2 minutes. Add the bread crumbs and cracker crumbs to this and
stir about 5 minutes until crumbs are lightly golden. Turn off and
remove pan from heat. Stir in the thyme, parsley, salt and pepper.
Spread about ½ of the crumbs in the bottom of a shallow 2-quart
baking dish. Drain the oysters but reserve the liquid in a small bowl.
Put the oysters in a single layer over the crumbs.
Combine the cream, sherry, hot pepper sauce and 3 tablespoons of the
reserved oyster liquid in a small bowl. Now drizzle this over the
oysters and cover with the rest of the crumbs. Bake uncovered about one
half hour until the crumbs are golden brown and the liquid bubbles.
Dale Carson, Abenaki, is the author of three books: New Native American
Cooking, Native New England Cooking and A Dreamcatcher Book. She has
written about and demonstrated Native cooking techniques for more than
30 years. Dale has four grown children and lives with her husband in
Madison, Connecticut.