Rigging for centerboard

[Ann Sidwell]

Hello all.
 
I'm in Minnesota
bought a slightly used (lucky me) -- Johnson 18 -- which was on of the lasts - so its a Capri - but not one of those hulls that have been sitting around at Capri.
 
However, I do not think they did the rigging for the center board correctly,
 
Could someone send me either a diagram or a picture of their rigging for me.
 
I have a line from the top that goes fore and locks it UP for transport.
 
then I have line that comes from the top of the board and goes down to a single block at the intersection of the aftmost centerboard slit - just to left of side -- with no way to lock it or tighten it.
 
have looked at stock photos and it looks like the line from the top of the centerboard in the picture goes aft to the traveler cross piece.
 
(If anyone has a board that is rigged correctly and lives in the Minneapolis area and would be willing to let me see if - I would be fine with stopping over -- and looking at it - thanks.
 
Ann 

[Rick Paullin]

Ann - congrats on your new boat!  We all obviously like the design a lot.

Capri may have forgotten to install a couple of the cleats -- I can try to describe where they should be located.  It sounds like your centerboard might be rigged similar to the way the last 70-80 boats came from the JBW shop.

Cleat #1: Is there a gray clam cleat on the top of your centerboard (aft side)?  It should be pointing up (or forward if the boat is on the trailer).  That's not a very good way to describe it, but the teeth inside the cleat should be pointing forward.  So if you thread a line through it and pull aft, it will engage the teeth.  That cleat is the one that was used for the main centerboard position adjustment.

Cleat #2:  Is there an auto release clamcleat on the port side of the centerboard trunk, located pretty far forward?  Again, this one has the teeth pointing forward, so it will hold the centerboard pennant line coming from the single block at the rear of the centerboard slit.  This cleat is adjusted so that it will pop open if you run aground.

Here's a photo of the cleat and a link to it in our local store:

http://www.apsltd.com/auto-release-racing-mini.html

You actually don't need cleat #2 to go sailing, but you risk breaking your centerboard if you run aground.  The first 40-50 boats came with a simple plastic shackle at the end of the centerboard pennant, which would break if you ran aground.  It was hard to find replacement shackles with the perfect thickness of plastic, so mine would break under sail in heavy surfing conditions.  I got sick of dealing with it, so I bought an auto release cleat and rigged it like the later factory boats.  It's not hard to install, but you do need to remove the centerboard trunk if you want to use bolts instead of screws to install the clamcleat.  The centerboard trunk on my boat is attached with ten bolts that are very easy to remove and reinstall - no caulk needed.

Good luck, and I hope you're able to get out on the water soon!

  - Rick

[Five Cubed Skipper]

Ann, congrats and welcome to the J18 group!

the center boards are rigged differently depending on when the boats were produced.  

check out this thread and photo:

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/johnson-18-one-design/PuVEGmuKTd0/LnP9BJri1i8J

-Brian

(125)

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 7:44:57 PM UTC-4, absidwell wrote:

[Five Cubed Skipper]

Ann You can also zoom in on the photo here to see how this one is rigged:

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/johnson-18-one-design/87do3IbYf4U/qo_iGwjpAwAJ

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 7:44:57 PM UTC-4, absidwell wrote:

[Richard Holm]

I am in Mendota Heights. Give me a call

651-457-0083

Rick
Orion 185

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[Richard Holm]

The first reply with the picture was of my boat.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/johnson-18-one-design/571F8622.7000000%40eventiamor.com.

[Jeff Mackenstadt]

Hi all, I know this is an old post '16, and now it is 2021.  But I  have a similar situation.  I went down to Tampa in Sept., and picked up a Capri. I have it in the shop, and I'm getting it tuned up best I can. Unfortunatly, I  didn't take photo's when I took the shroud off, and removed the lines. If anybody has any pics, that would be great.  I want to flip the boat, but need to do this first. Thanks much!

Jeff

[Five Cubed Skipper]

https://youtu.be/Q5kvxL3eGTg

try this...to start

[Jeff Mackenstadt]

Thanks I’ve seen that. It’s great,  but they don’t do the centerboard. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 4, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Five Cubed Skipper <bdl...@gmail.com> wrote:

https://youtu.be/Q5kvxL3eGTg

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[Five Cubed Skipper]

This is how the original boats were rigged... I think mine is rigged similarly, but I usually wrap the loose tail around the top of the board to keep the board line from easing out of the cleat.

[Jeff Mackenstadt]

Thank you, I may be able to figure it out. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 4, 2021, at 2:44 PM, Five Cubed Skipper <bdl...@gmail.com> wrote:



This is how the original boats were rigged... I think mine is rigged similarly, but I usually wrap the loose tail around the top of the board to keep the board line from easing out of the cleat.

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<Screenshot 2021-03-04 153816.jpg>

[Jeremy Lyman]

From the crew perspective (actually operates the board) the jam cleat doesn't really do anything.  The line pops loose at the drop of a hat.  The load is also much more than any mechanical advantage the block provides, so you just end up grabbing the end of the board itself to go board down.  As long as you can tighten it reasonably secure you've got it run right.

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[Jeff Mackenstadt]

Jeremy, thanks ! I think I finally have it. And it’s actually not that complicated, but do you recall a short line , kind of underneath? ( I cut the darn thing off without recording it). 

Thanks! 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 5, 2021, at 5:37 AM, Jeremy Lyman <jea...@gmail.com> wrote:



From the crew perspective (actually operates the board) the jam cleat doesn't really do anything.  The line pops loose at the drop of a hat.  The load is also much more than any mechanical advantage the block provides, so you just end up grabbing the end of the board itself to go board down.  As long as you can tighten it reasonably secure you've got it run right.

<image.png>

On Thu, Mar 4, 2021 at 3:44 PM Five Cubed Skipper <bdl...@gmail.com> wrote:

This is how the original boats were rigged... I think mine is rigged similarly, but I usually wrap the loose tail around the top of the board to keep the board line from easing out of the cleat.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/johnson-18-one-design/CAJ6bXNnoOyptYyo3CX_Rh3t%3D-he-OrqXDX2Kxt%2BUM4viDt0LMw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Rick Paullin]

Hi Jeff -- congrats on getting your new boat tuned up! 

You mentioned a short line underneath the centerboard -- it sounds like the one that holds "up" the board while it's on the trailer -- the small red line on the right side of the photo below (not my boat).  The original JBW boats just used a velcro strap to hold the board up, but it wasn't quite strong enough while trailering on the road.  Your Capri boat was probably rigged like the later JBW boats, with a line from the top of the board to a block at the front edge of the centerboard trunk and then to a cleat on the top side of the trunk (silver clam cleat in photo below).

Brian and Jeremy described the other centerboard line pretty well -- the only thing I'd add to their description is a modification I made to my boat.  I found that the board wouldn't stay down all the way (especially upwind in a breeze), because there wasn't enough mechanical advantage due to the steep angle of the line down to the turning block on the trunk behind the board.  Also, most boats have spiderweb cracks in the gelcoat around that turning block (brown repairs in the photo below).  The cracks are probably not a structural problem, but they do indicate a lot of force (and a lot of flex) in that area.  So I moved the turning block back about 4 inches on the trunk, and it really helped decrease the force and keep the board down all the way.  This mod is not very difficult or time-consuming, but it does require removal of the centerboard trunk (10 bolts).

Good luck with the rest of your rigging,

Rick

On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 11:23:42 AM UTC-5 Jeff Mackenstadt wrote:

Jeremy, thanks ! I think I finally have it. And it’s actually not that complicated, but do you recall a short line , kind of underneath? ( I cut the darn thing off without recording it). 

Thanks! 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 5, 2021, at 5:37 AM, Jeremy Lyman wrote:



[Jeff Mackenstadt]

Thanks Rick, It's going pretty well. I hope to wrap up the centerboard tomorrow .  Then I can flip the boat and take care of a couple dings on the bottom. I still need to 

make sure the wisker is rigged right. That black elastic line is shot, so I hope to address that after I finish with the bottom.

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Email: jmacke...@prostrain.net

[Five Cubed Skipper]

Jeff! Before you go messing with the pole (and extension line and return elastic) ... I highly recommend reading this whole thread: 

https://groups.google.com/g/johnson-18-one-design/c/SXwIc4zLsLU/m/2i5OKrvC7dYJ

It's worth the research time.

-Brian

[Mike & Amy Borinski]

Is there any intrest in this boat.  For sale. 

Johnson 18

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