Eprom changes required?

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Alan Mclean

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Aug 5, 2018, 10:42:48 AM8/5/18
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I have a CTC Model CTC22795 with an ATmega 2560 15/07/01 (FL0510481) (Replicator 1?) and I have finally got Sailfish 7.6 loaded into it.

Before I start setting it up do I need to do anything with the EPROM?

If I do need to make changes where do I get :-

1, Instructions how to do it?
2, The software and new image to flash the EPROM with?


Many Thanks. aamcle

Dan Newman

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Aug 5, 2018, 10:51:26 AM8/5/18
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If it did not previously have Sailfish, then it's anyone's guess how the
EEPROM was organized previously. CTC has, in the past, been putting a
modified version of Sailfish on their boards BUT not installing a
bootloader. So, you may be okay -- you may not need to reset the
EEPROM. Not possible to know for certain.

As per the Sailfish documentation,

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/

before installing Sailfish for the first time you would have written
down the calibration settings (X and Y axis offsets and the X, Y, and Z
home positions). Then, after installing Sailfish you could restore them
via the Utilities menu on the LCD screen, or using "RepG 0040rXX -
Sailfish" (download from Sailfish Thing at thingiverse). If necessary,
you could even reset the EEPROM entirely,

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/ui-utilities-menu.html#x18-600003.7.21

Dan

Alan Mclean

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Aug 6, 2018, 2:40:20 AM8/6/18
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Alan Mclean

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Aug 6, 2018, 2:42:17 AM8/6/18
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Thanks Dan.

I'm told that it had an older version of Sailfish installed and I made a record of the settings via repg for I started the install.

I'll proceed with the setup, many thanks.


Regards. Aamcle

Diagram3D

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Aug 6, 2018, 10:50:02 AM8/6/18
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Hi,

Until I blew up the right thermocouple my CTC was running very happily on sailfish ( 7.7 r01432).

It needed a lot of hardware improvements fixes.

However, the well-known right extruder temperature issue was a real nuisance. The new thermocouple was fine until it shorted when the heater went on. Should have known better, but there you are.

One of the reasons for joining this group was that I wanted to find a definite source for sailfish of the 7.7 era. I can build the code, would like to try a build that uses an alternate pin for the right thermocouple.

If anyone can help with that I would be grateful. I realise that there are a number of fixes that have happened since 7.7!

Kind Wishes,

Tad
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Jetguy

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Aug 6, 2018, 12:57:29 PM8/6/18
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Your request doesn't make sense.
Thermocouples must be read by a thermocouple amplifier IC. In the case of the mighty board, that's either a MAX6675 or MAX3185 that is a Digital output. 3185 was an alternative because MAX6675 was at one time EOL, but due to manufacturing and demand, the supposed ending of MAX6675 hasn't happened as once predicted.
So, that means there is no single pin to move to. It's digital SPI serial bus, and the 2 thermocouple amps for left and right extruder share a common bus and switch which chip and thermocouple is being read by the individual chip select line. So by what you are saying, you killed the chip select line but did not damage to the actual SPI data lines as they are shared between chips? Again, it takes 3 pins minimally and actually 4 to read the 2 thermocouples with 2 of them being the shared SPI interface and the 2 others as chip select. I think you are confusing an analog pin swap as seen with a blown ADC input from a thermistor.

No, more likely than not, you need to go back and understand the problem and repair the board correctly or replace the board.
Yes, the short likely blew the MAX6675. Yes, in extreme cases, this damaged the board and traces and even backfeeds 24V up the 5V logic and kills many components on the board including the USB to serial for talking to the mega1280 in the first place.

So it's either replace the blown max6675 and if that doesn't work, then more or less the board may be damaged beyond "Reasonable" repair.

Diagram3D

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Aug 6, 2018, 1:30:40 PM8/6/18
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Hi,

 

I replaced the max chip and checked the connections. The pin is 16 (off the top of my head) for the 1280 clone installed in the CTC.  The other two are shared between the max chips, since the left thermocouple works then that narrows it down somewhat.

 

You could well be right about the state of the motherboard however in all other respects it seems to work OK using the left extruder.  Which brings me back to my original question:

 

Can you tell me how to get hold of the source code which creates sailfish 7.7 rev 01432 or thereabouts?

 

I hope the above question makes sense… J

 

Kind wishes,

 

Tad

 

 

From: jetty-f...@googlegroups.com [mailto:jetty-f...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jetguy
Sent: 06 August 2018 17:56
To: Jetty Firmware
Subject: Re: [Jetty Firmware] Re: Eprom changes required?

 

Your request don't make sense.

Thermocouples must be read by a thermocouple amplifier IC. In the case of the mighty board, that's either a MAX6675 or MAX3185 that is a Digital output. 3185 was an alternative because MAX6675 was at one time EOL, but due to manufacturing and demand, the supposed ending of MAX6675 hasn't happened as once predicted.

So, that means there is no single pin to move to. It's digital SPI serial bus, and the 2 thermocouple amps for left and right extruder share a common bus and switch which chip and thermocouple is being read by the individual chip select line. So by what you are saying, you killed the chip select line but did not damage to the actual SPI data lines as they are shared between chips? Again, it takes 3 pins minimally and actually 4 to read the 2 thermocouples with 2 of them being the shared SPI interface and the 2 others as chip select. I think you are confusing an analog pin swap as seen with a blown ADC input from a thermistor.

 

No, more likely than not, you need to go back and understand the problem and repair the board correctly or replace the board.

Yes, the short likely blew the MAX6675. Yes, in extreme cases, this damaged the board and traces and even backfeeds 24V up the 5V logic and kills many components on the board including the USB to serial for talking to the mega1280 in the first place.

 

So it's either replace the blown max6675 and if that doesn't work, then more or less the board may be damaged beyond "Reasonable" repair.

On Monday, August 6, 2018 at 10:50:02 AM UTC-4, Diagram3D wrote:

Jetguy

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Aug 6, 2018, 2:34:28 PM8/6/18
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Jetguy

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Aug 6, 2018, 2:37:54 PM8/6/18
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Right on the front page of the documentation.

Diagram3D

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Aug 6, 2018, 2:55:36 PM8/6/18
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Thanks, it is the revision number that is causing the issue. I checked the firmware out  some time ago.  Can you advise the revision number that matches the 7.7 release (or thereabouts).  I can’t revert to 1432 J

 

I am assuming that the revision numbers were reset at some point? 

 

Thanks again for your time.

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