Johor relics predate Malacca
BY TEOH TEIK HOONG AND AUDREY EDWARDS
PETALING JAYA: Artefacts dated older than the Malacca Sultanate have
been found in the area where the lost city of Kota Gelanggi is said to
be located.
These finds have reinforced claims of the existence of the ancient
site which independent researcher Raimy Che-Ross said he had located
last year.
Archaeologist Professor Datuk Dr Nik Hassan Suhaimi Nik Abdul Rahman
said excavation teams had found proof that there had been settlements
near the area prior to the 14th century.
“People have always believed that the settlements or kingdoms in Johor
came after the fall of Malacca based on pottery and tombstones that
were excavated,” he said in an interview yesterday.
Dr Nik Hassan Suhaimi, who is attached to the Universiti Kebangsaan
Malaysia Institute of the Malay World and Civilisation, also said that
discoveries inside an old fort were dated at between the ninth and
12th century.
He was commenting on the discovery of what was believed to be the site
of Kota Gelanggi by Raimy.
Dr Nik Hassan Suhaimi said nothing could be confirmed about the
existence of the lost city until more fieldwork had been carried out.
“We have an expedition planned this year,” he said.
He had started the survey on the area in 1977 and has had excavation
teams working in the vicinity.
“If at all a kingdom is found, it is likely we will find forts or
protective walls made from brick, stone or earth. Presumably, there
will also be a Hindu or Buddhist temple there, “ he added.
Johor Heritage Foundation deputy director Mohd Ismail Zamzam said what
had been highlighted by Raimy reinforced the foundation’s work in the
area.
“The foundation with the help of archaeologist Dr Nik Hassan Suhaimi
had begun work to verify the existence of a Malay civilisation at this
site since 1996.
“Our objective is to confirm the existence of a civilisation which
dates back even further than Malacca,” he said.
The Malaysian branch of the Royal Asiatic Society secretary Datuk
Henry Barlow said the society published Raimy’s work as it was of
great significance to the country.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
It's a secret!
PETALING JAYA: Everyone wants to know the location of the lost city of
Kota Gelanggi, but for obvious reasons we have omitted the details.
The Star has been swamped with calls from readers on the whereabouts
of this site.
In the interest of preserving the sanctity of this site, we have made
the decision not to disclose any details.
There are fears that the public and treasure hunters might rush to the
site and subsequently destroy the site which is more than 1,000 years
old.
Ongoing research is being carried out by authorities, who are
verifying the location of the lost city and its existence.
The Star will continue to update readers about the search.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Foreign media and readers seek more info
PETALING JAYA: Media from all over the world have swamped The Star
with calls asking for more information on the Kota Gelanggi lost city,
its whereabouts in Johor and independent researcher Raimy Che-Ross.
Calls came from FujiTV, NHK Japan, Radio Australia, AFP, BBC and
several other foreign media.
Readers of The Star also flooded the office with calls from as early
as 8.30am.
Many of the callers were confused over the Johor site and the Kota
Gelanggi cave complex in Pahang, a site known for its pre-historic
links, about 30km from Jerantut.
Six years ago, a team of archaeologists unearthed artefacts there
believed to be more than 1,500 years old in one of the caves.
The relics included pottery, hunting tools, weapons and ornamental
pieces.
It indicated a settlement of early humans in the Kota Gelanggi caves
known as the “Hoabinhian” or the “Neolitic” people of the more
advanced Stone Age. They were believed to have lived there until the
Bronze Age.
Archaeologist William Cameron, who visited the site in 1882, recorded
the early human settlements.
The site was gazetted by the Pahang government as a Historical
Heritage Area in 1995.
The 1,000-year-old lost city in Johor, on the other hand, is believed
located in dense jungle.
Raimy's discovery of what is thought to be the site of Kota Gelanggi
or Perbendaharaan Permata (Treasury of Jewels) has prompted museum
officials to plan an expedition to confirm his findings.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Tracking down Kota Gelanggi
BY TEOH TEIK HOONG AND AUDREY EDWARDS
KUALA LUMPUR: After more than a decade of visiting various research
facilities, putting up with shocked looks from relatives and scholars
and saving money, Raimy Che-Ross finally stood at an entrance, which
could lead to Kota Gelanggi.
“As I approached the area, I had this sense of an overwhelming aura.
It was like I was entering someone’s house and had to be very careful
with what I did,” he said of his expedition in early 2003, which
lasted one week.
That first visit, he said did not produce any results and the team did
not see any tracks which could lead into the lost city.
Raimy said they found embankments along the path on the second day and
noted that primary growth surrounded the secondary one, which was
unusual as it was usually the reverse.
He added that it was difficult to approach the area as it took about
two hours of trekking on very rough terrain.
“We told the Tok Batin (orang asli head) that we were going fishing
for haruan and had to go through dirt tracks with a four-wheel drive
to the base camp. From here, it was a boat ride, which lasted about
one-and-a-half hours,” he said.
He said the orang asli refused to enter the area, which they claimed
had a lot of pantang (taboo).
“When I told them about the area I wanted to enter, they said Itu tak
boleh kacau. Nanti kena makan hantu. Ratus tahun dulu orang Cina ada
bikin barang. Banyak hantu, hantu dulu tinggal sana. Rimau banyak
(That place cannot be disturbed or you will be eaten up by ghosts. The
Chinese had built things there. A lot of ghosts stay there. There are
many tigers),” he said.
They eventually agreed to send Raimy and his friend to the area but
refused to enter it.
“They would send us in the morning from base camp and pick us up in
the evening. They said they would leave after five minutes if we did
not show up,” he said.
On the last day, they had an unusual experience when Raimy was
determined to find the lost city.
“We did our usual thing and lit Indian incense and spread jasmine as a
way of asking for permission to enter the pathway. Suddenly, we found
a path which had not been there before. I felt that there was
something beckoning and urging me to enter,” Raimy said.
“There were flowers like tepus, melur and bunga kantan, and it was
very fragrant and beautiful. We just kept on walking and my friend
suddenly stopped me and told me to head back.”
“He went pale and he asked me whether I could hear anything. It was
then I realised that everything was silent,” said Raimy.
The two headed back and when they turned back after some distance,
they found that the path had disappeared.
That will not stop him although he knows that it will take a long time
to realise his dream.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Interest and perseverance pays off for Raimy
PETALING JAYA: He was Jawi illiterate until he was 17, but now
independent researcher Raimy Che-Ross' career is centred around the
translating and studying the Malay Arabic script.
“I would get A’s in everything but failed Agama because I could not
read Jawi. And the ustazah (religious teacher) would pick on me
because I could not do so.
“Then, the headmaster called me up one day when I was in Form 5 and
told me that I had to pass the subject to get a good grade.
“So, I taught myself Jawi six weeks before the exam. I borrowed books
and even went to Kampung Baru to buy the Utusan Melayu, which was in
Jawi, to read.
“People on the bus would stare wondering what this boy was doing
reading the newspaper. But I passed the exam in the end,” said the
Canberra-based researcher in an interview.
Raimy, who is of Chinese-Malay-Pattani and Acehnese descent,
eventually went on to do his bachelor of arts in political science,
anthropology and art history at the Australian National University in
Canberra.
It was at the University that he stumbled upon references to Kota
Gelanggi while he was translating the Raffles Malay 18 Sejarah Melayu
(the oldest version) from Jawi to Romanised text.
Saying that most of the Malay literature featured stories of mythical
places or individuals such as Puteri Bunian or Istana Kayangan,
Raimy’s first encounter with a true-life location turned out to be
Kota Gelanggi (or Kota Batu Hitam), which he found references
beginning with Raffles Malay 18 and subsequent versions of the Sejarah
Melayu.
“It referred to a place that was located in Johor. This was not an
Istana Kayangan but a physical reference. I thought it odd but did not
think much of it at the time. When I translated other texts later
there were references to the place from different sources like
Chinese, Indian and Malay literature,” he said.
However, it was only six years ago that it dawned on him that he had
stumbled upon a “treasure trove”.
“I pulled out the boxes, put on a “Ministry of Sound” CD and sorted
the documents according to theme. When dawn broke, I was dumbfounded
because it was not just a fairy tale or figment of imagination but an
actual thing.
“I continued to work on it and research was a priority. I had no
academic tenure and did it out of my own interest. There was no
research support. Sometimes, it was a choice between a cup of coffee
or photocopying a document,” added Raimy.
He continued on his quest by finding the oldest topographical map of
Johor and subsequent copies of it. He proceeded to calculate distances
and did an elimination process before finally pinpointing an area
measuring about 5sq km.
Raimy is an accredited national Malay translator under the National
Accreditation Authority for Translators and Interpreters, Australia
and his first job was as a Malay tutor at the Australian foreign
affairs and trade department’s language studies unit.
Other positions that he has held include a visiting scholar at the
Cambridge University Trinity College, Commonwealth Trust (Malaysian
Commonwealth Studies Centre), research administrator at the National
Art Gallery in Kuala Lumpur and appointed senior research consultant
for the Jawi Transliteration Project at the National University of
Singapore history department.
Raimy has written articles including “Malay Manuscripts in New
Zealand: The “Lost” MS of the Hikayat Abdullah & other Malay MSS in
the Thomson Collection” and on the oldest published syair entitled
“Syair Peri Tun Raffles Pergi ke Minangkabau: A previously unknown
text.”
Government boost for expedition to unveil nation’s biggest historical
find
BY TEOH TEIK HOONG AND AUDREY EDWARDS
KUALA LUMPUR: The Government is giving top priority to the search for
the lost city of Kota Gelanggi in Johor and will provide the necessary
funds to unveil the biggest historical find in the country.
Culture, Arts and Heritage Minister Datuk Seri Rais Yatim told The
Star that a preliminary report carried out by the Department of
Museums and Antiquities, with independent researcher Raimy Che-Ross’
help, would be submitted to the Cabinet in two weeks.
He said as the search for Kota Gelanggi would involve federal and
state authorities, it was crucial for the Cabinet to be briefed.
“We will also discuss it with the Johor government and how we can play
a more strident role on what has been found.
“This is more exciting than the Perak Man find. If it is proven to be
true, history would have to be rewritten,” he said.
Rais said if it was necessary, the Government would enlist the help of
experts from Unesco.
“We may not have the expertise to date the structures on the site. We
don’t have that many experienced archaeologists in the country as
well,” he added.
On why his ministry did not disclose the find earlier, he said his
ministry had wanted to keep it under wraps until proper documentation
was done.
“We will be realistic and positive in our approach on this issue. The
search for Kota Gelanggi started some time back but experts had to
follow the proper procedures to verify indications of its existence,”
he added after the launch of the The World of The Peranakan –
Unveiling the Mysteries of The Baba & Nyonya exhibition at Muzium
Negara yesterday.
However, he warned that unauthorised people trying to enter the site
would be dealt with the full force of the law.
He said the authorities would utilise all the necessary laws in the
country to protect the site.
Rais:'Unauthorised people trying to enter the site will be dealt with'
Rais congratulated Raimy on the find and described it as a “sterling
effort embarked by sterling people”.
He said his ministry would enlist Raimy’s assistance to carry out the
search for the lost city of Kota Gelanggi.
Indonesian Ambassador to Malaysia Dr KPH Rusdihardjo SH, who was at
the launch, said Indonesia, which has the Sri Vijaya and Borobudur
archaeological sites, would extend its technical assistance to locate
the lost city.
“We will extend our assistance in whatever way we can to help the
Malaysian authorities locate and verify the site, if called upon,” he
said.
Meanwhile, JOCELINE TAN reports Johor Mentri Besar Datuk Abdul Ghani
Othman as expressing delight with the news of the find.
“I was pleasantly pleased when I read The Star report that there is
this kind of site in the state. It will be a fantastic development for
Johor, something that will enrich the history of the state and that of
the nation,” he said.
Abdul Ghani said the state would extend full cooperation to ongoing
efforts being carried out by the Department of Museums and
Antiquities.
He said the state would help facilitate the search and ensure there is
no intrusion – by unauthorised people, including loggers – in the
area.
“We also have to pursue the search with archaeological experts,” he
added.
The Johor Forestry Department is already offering its help in the
expedition into the lost city.
Its district forestry officer (south) Che Ros Abu said the department
would assist in issuing permits to enter the forest.
“We are very excited about this find and will do our best to help.
Forest rangers will also be on hand to assist in the expedition if
needed,” he said.
++++++++++++++++++++++
‘Several lost realms need to be found’
BY LEE YUK PENG
MALACCA: There are several other lost Malay kingdoms pre-dating the
Malacca Sultanate that need to be discovered, said Melaka Museums
Corporation general manager Dr Badriyah Salleh.
Referring to the possible discovery of the lost city of Kota Gelanggi
in Johor, an excited Dr Badriyah said this would enhance the history
of the Malay kingdoms.
She pointed out that the Malacca Sultanate obtained significance in
history as it was an empire and also because information and artefacts
of the sultanate could still be found in local and foreign records.
“There is ample evidence of the Malacca Sultanate but not the earlier
ones, although their names were mentioned in the famed Sejarah Melayu.
“With the lack of records and the significance of Malacca Sultanate,
the other kingdoms tend to be marginalised or blurred,” she said.
Dr Badriyah, a retired associate professor of history from Universiti
Sains Malaysia, also said the eventual discovery of Kota Gelanggi had
strengthened her hypothesis that the many names of kingdoms and places
listed in Sejarah Melayu were actually real.
After The Star published stories about the possible discovery of Kota
Gelanggi, Dr Badriyah reread several versions of Sejarah Melayu.
“Sejarah Melayu has to be studied in a different perspective – with a
focus on the names mentioned to prove their existence.
“There were many layers of meaning in Sejarah Melayu as ancient people
tended to use proverbs, hints, comparisons and subtle language to
express themselves,” she said.
“History has to be discovered all the time, like piecing together a
jigsaw puzzle,” she said.
While the Malacca Sultanate started with Parameswara travelling from
Temasek to Bertam in Malacca around 1400, Dr Badriyah said there was
no record on the places in Johor on Parameswara’s travel route.
“Perhaps Kota Gelanggi was gone by then,” she said
1,000-year-old image of temple may be that of Kota Gelanggi
BY TEOH TEIK HOONG AND AUDREY EDWARDS
PETALING JAYA: The lost city of Kota Gelanggi in Johor may be the
unidentified temple shown in a 1000-year-old illustration of an
unknown place in the region, a Cambridge University expert said.
R.C. Jamieson, Keeper of Sanskrit Manuscripts at the University of
Cambridge, Britain, said the origin of the illustration which showed a
former Buddha, Dipamkara, making a gesture of reassurance and holding
a fold of his robe at his shoulder in a temple in Java had yet to be
verified.
“However, we must bear in mind that Java then might not have been just
the present island alone. At the time of The Perfection of Wisdom in
8,000 Lines (Astasahasrikaprajnaparamita) manuscript, the term
encompassed Sumatra and part of the Malay peninsula.
“The manuscript states that the image was taken around 1015AD,” he
said in an e-mail interview from London.
The palm-leaf manuscript got to Cambridge from Nepal and the main text
was in Sanskrit, Jamieson added.
The illustration also shows two attendants who are bodhisattvas
(deities) making the gesture of explanation and holding a blue lotus,
among other items, while standing in a temple between some trees.
Jamieson said whether or not the illustration was that of the lost
city of Kota Gelanggi, it was worth a detailed investigation.
He said: “If they were the one and the same, it would be a fabulous
discovery. If they are not, the work is still valuable and the style
of the illustrated building and remains could still be very similar.”
He expressed his willingness to assist in any expedition to verify the
lost city initiated by the Museum and Antiquities Department.
Jamieson said the history of such places was important in the history
of religion, trade, and international contact at the time and in many
other spheres.
“I feel sure something has been found and the only sensible thing is
to examine it in a scholarly fashion,” he added.
A website located at www.edlis.org/pow depicts many illustrations from
the book.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++=
Mystery over where Japanese prince died
PETALING JAYA: A memorial built for a Japanese imperial heir, Crown
Prince Takaoka, in Johor Baru is a strong indication that he met his
death in the state and possibly in the lost city of Kota Gelanggi.
Erected in January 1970 by the Chief Abbot of the Mount Koya
monastery, the memorial still stands majestically today at the
Japanese cemetery in Jalan Kebun Teh, Johor Baru.
Official Japanese records had noted that Prince Takaoka reportedly met
his death after being attacked by a tiger in Kota Gelanggi in Johor,
which some scholars believe to be the kingdom of Lo-Yue.
According to Prof Dr Chisho Namai, president of Koyasan University in
Japan, Prince Takaoka (799AD to 865AD) was the third son of Emperor
Heizei (774 to 824).
“Prince Takaoka renounced the world in 822 and changed his name to
Shinnyo Hosshinno,” he said.
Dr Namai said the prince then left for China in 862, studied in
Chang-an in 864, then decided to go to India to study Buddhism.
He said Prince Takaoka started for India from Guang-zhou on Jan 27,
865, after which the university lost track of his trail.
“What we know is that he did pass through the Malay peninsula en route
to India. We have no information on whether the prince passed away in
Lo-Yue,” he added.
Dr Namai said if the remains of the prince were found in Kota
Gelanggi, the monastery would make a request for them to be returned
to Japan.
Kota Gelanggi: Missing piece in ancient chain
BY TEOH TEIK HOONG AND AUDREY EDWARDS
KUALA LUMPUR: The lost city of Kota Gelanggi could be the missing one
in a chain of inter-linked cities of an ancient Siamese empire.
Badan Warisan council member Dr Chandran Jeshurun said that this was
based on an article, which appeared in the Nusantara journal more than
30 years ago.
The article entitled “Lang-Ya-Shu and Langkasuka: A Re-Interpretation”
was written by a Siamese prince Mom Chao Chand. He discussed the
locations of two 7th century Chinese toponyms (identifying ancient
places and relating them to present day locations).
He had also explored the location of the mythical kingdom of
Langkasuka.
“The article appeared in July 1972. I was editor of the journal then
and had met Prince Mom Chao Chand at the Chiengmai University where I
was a visiting lecturer for a month.
“We got to know each other and spoke about a lot of things including
Langkasuka. That was when I asked him to contribute to the journal,”
Dr Chandran said yesterday.
He was commenting on the possibility of locating the lost city of Kota
Gelanggi in Johor.
Dr Chandran, who is a former Universiti Malaya Professor of Asian
History, said the prince had written about the 12 Naksat Cities (see
graphic), which appeared in both the chronicles of Nakorn Sri
Thammaraj and the chronicles of the Phra Dhatu Nakorn.
Naksat, refers to the name of an animal which represents a certain
year in a twelve-year cycle. However, only 11 have been identified in
the Malay peninsular, with three in Kedah, Kelantan and Pahang located
in present day Malaysia.
The prince while referring to the third as Pahang, however, wrote that
this does not refer to the present location of that name as Pahang was
a Muang (a city, not a district or province). This missing city was
the “year of the rabbit” (Muang Pahang).
“It was a place in the south. And when I heard Raimy (Che-Ross)
briefing us last year, I remembered this article. As Raimy told us
about the walls and layouts, I thought of the possibility that this
could be the 12th missing city,” said Dr Chandran.
He added that it was just speculation and an expedition would prove
once and for all whether there was any ancient structure in the area.
The prince had also written that the 12 cities acted as an outer
shield, which surrounded the capital Nakorn Sri Thammaraj.
“They were connected by land against surprise attacks, when help could
be sent from one city to another,” he wrote.
The 11 Muangs with their “years” are Narathiwat (rat), Patani (ox),
Kelantan (tiger), Kedah (big snake), Patalung (little snake), Trang
(horse), Chumporn (goat), Krabi (monkey), Kanchanadit (chicken),
Phuket or Takuapa (dog) and Kraburi (pig).
It was also suggested in the article that aerial photography could be
a means of locating these cities as had been successfully done in
Thailand. Independent researcher Raimy had carried out such an
exercise to track down Kota Gelanggi.
+++++++++++++++++
Johor to reveal more info today
TANGKAK: The state government will disclose more information about the
search for the lost city of Kota Gelanggi today.
Mentri Besar Datuk Abdul Ghani Othman said he had met those involved
in the search for the city and the relevant department heads.
He added that the site of Gangga Ayu was still being studied by a team
of researchers and archaeologists.
He said the research, headed by resident archaeologist Prof Nik Hassan
Suhaimi from Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, began in 1997 and had yet
to be finalised.
“I was surprised when a member of the research team, Raimy Che-Ross,
disclosed the subject before the research was completed.
“I will call all those involved in the research and the relevant
department heads for a meeting in Johor Baru later today,” he had said
after launching Johor's fitness council yesterday.
Abdul Ghani said since the lost city has become a “hot subject” among
many parties, the state would issue related information in Johor Baru
today.
He said several expeditions were made to search the banks of Sungai
Johor for artifacts.
He said Johor seemed to be the first in many things and if the lost
city turned out to be Kota Gelanggi, which historians said predated
Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Borobodur in Indonesia, the state would be
the first centre of civilisation in the region
Lost city is ‘not Kota Gelanggi’
BY MAZWIN NIK ANIS
JOHOR BARU: The Johor government agrees that there is a lost city in
the state but is disputing its name.
As the mystery of the site deepens, Mentri Besar Datuk Abdul Ghani
Othman said there was a historic city in Johor located within the deep
jungles of Kota Tinggi but it was not Kota Gelanggi.
He said based on historical facts and archaeological finds over the
past 10 years by the state heritage foundation Yayasan Warisan Johor,
there was evidence that the historic city in Kota Tinggi is Kota Klang
Kiu or Ganggayu.
The search for the lost city drew nationwide interest after The Star
broke the story last week, prompting the Federal Government to say it
would be given top priority.
When he first responded to the report, Ghani had stated that it was a
fantastic development for the state, something that would enrich the
history of Johor and the nation.
Yesterday, however, he said historical facts showed that the Kota
Gelanggi mentioned by independent researcher Raimy Che Ross was
situated in Pahang and not in Johor.
“I do not know how Raimy came to the conclusion (that Kota Gelanggi is
in Johor),” he said.
He added that the researcher was not part of the state’s team in
searching for historical sites.
Ghani said apart from what was written in Sejarah Melayu (Malay
Annals), a discovery by English scholar Quaritch Wales of a temple
known as Candi Bemban along Sungai Madek and other artefacts there
strengthened the belief that a government had existed way before the
Johor-Riau-Lingga sultanate.
He said the foundation, led by prominent archaeologist Prof Datuk Nik
Hassan Suhaimi, had, since 1996, carried out excavation work and study
in the area.
“We believe that until today, some parts of the city are still
standing somewhere upstream from Sungai Johor,” he said, referring to
records in the Sejarah Melayu that after conquering Gangganegara, Raja
Suran of Thailand had sailed to Ganggayu.
He declined to disclose the site of the lost city in Johor but said
the area could be “somewhere within the 14,000ha site of the forest
reserve where Sungai Madek and Sungai Lenggiu are located.”
Ghani said the whole area where the historical artefacts were found
and the possible site of Kota Klang Kiu had been gazetted as forest
reserve.
“No one is allowed to enter the area without the state authorities' go
ahead,” he said.
To a question, Ghani said Federal agencies had no jurisdiction over
the area until there was a discovery and that any expedition work,
study and excavation would be under the state's purview.
“However, we have no problem working together with the National Museum
on this matter,” he said.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Raimy: The one in Pahang is not lost city
PETALING JAYA: The existence of another “Kota Gelanggi” has presented
itself as a puzzle for the public since reports that a lost city is
apparently located in Johor.
However, independent researcher Raimy Che-Ross, who first broke the
news of the possible location of the lost city, pointed out that the
one in Pahang was a cave complex with pre-historic links located about
30km from Jerantut.
“Artefacts found at the caves include pottery, food waste and traces
of stone tools. Explorer William Cameron visited the site in 1882 and
recorded local fairy tales about its existence,” he said yesterday.
The site was gazetted as a Historical Heritage Area in 1995 by the
Pahang government.
However, the Kota Gelanggi he refers to as the lost city in Johor is
well recorded by Tun Sri Lanang in the Sejarah Melayu, describing its
granite structure and its location “di Hulu Sungai Johor (at the head
waters of the Johor River).”
“I have no reason to doubt this description,” he said.
Raimy said he was aware of the confusion and urged interested parties
to read his published findings.
His article “The ‘Lost City’ of Kota Gelanggi” appears in the latest
issue of the Journal of the Malaysian Branch of the Royal Asiatic
Society and could be obtained at the society’s website at
www.mbras.org.my.