gguitarwilly uniform melodica

[Steve Giedosh]

Hi Gguitarwilly

I first wanted to say how great your video was on the uniform melodica. I did a build myself
about two years ago (I've attached a picture of it) but yours was so much better!

I'm writing my book and hitting my chromatone hard but in the hours working I'm missing the chance to grab a few minutes here and there to run licks so I want to give the janko melodica another go only this time make it durable and portable (unlike my last one).

I love what you did with your 32 key version and I was wondering if you could go into greater detail about what you did and how you did it. Would it be possible to also post more pictures and measurements of all wooden parts involved?

I have many questions.

Thank You

Steve.

[gguitarwilly]

Hi Steve,

great to see another uniform keyboard melodica!

A bit more info on how I made the conversion: the most important thing is that you start out with the flat wooden pieces glued as horizontal as possible (seen from the front of the keyboard, not from the side). As you can see in the video I flattened the plastic keys with a chisel to get a flat glueing surface

.

I made a drawing with measurements for you. However, instead of first sawing out all components, it is better to estimate the sawing angle of the parts that stand upright by eye after you glued on the horizontal parts that turn the piano keyboard into a uniform keyboard. 

The most difficult part of making the conversion is the precise sawing angle of the parts standing up. I recommend using some kind of precision mitre saw. Me, I used a piece of wood I fixed with a clamp as a guide, Simply sawing by hand will not work!

the upright parts that are glued onto the black keys must be compensated for the fact that the keys are not horizontal, so you cannot simply saw all parts at 90 degrees.

the upright parts have to be high enough to make sure that when you press a key, it doesn't end up lower than the keys on the lower positioned row.

The placement of the keys themselves has to be done by eye, as they are not placed symmetrically on top of the standing parts. So first position them without glue, or put glue on the standing pieces and arrange the key tops by eye.

as used this project as a reference: https://plus.google.com/photos/106146409780363181514/albums/5600118928496641217?banner=pwa

 let me know if this is enough to get you started.

Willem

Op zaterdag 31 oktober 2015 18:38:45 UTC+1 schreef Steve Giedosh:

[gguitarwilly]

Oh by the way Steve,

To make it portable a made a custom cardboard box with support for the various key rows, so it would not bounce around in the box. You need a box because the lower key row is protruding.

Willem

Op zaterdag 31 oktober 2015 18:38:45 UTC+1 schreef Steve Giedosh:

Hi Gguitarwilly

[Steve Giedosh]

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 4:44:40 AM UTC-8, gguitarwilly wrote:

Hi Steve,

great to see another uniform keyboard melodica!

A bit more info on how I made the conversion: the most important thing is that you start out with the flat wooden pieces glued as horizontal as possible (seen from the front of the keyboard, not from the side). As you can see in the video I flattened the plastic keys with a chisel to get a flat glueing surface

.

I made a drawing with measurements for you. However, instead of first sawing out all components, it is better to estimate the sawing angle of the parts that stand upright by eye after you glued on the horizontal parts that turn the piano keyboard into a uniform keyboard. 

The most difficult part of making the conversion is the precise sawing angle of the parts standing up. I recommend using some kind of precision mitre saw. Me, I used a piece of wood I fixed with a clamp as a guide, Simply sawing by hand will not work!

the upright parts that are glued onto the black keys must be compensated for the fact that the keys are not horizontal, so you cannot simply saw all parts at 90 degrees.

the upright parts have to be high enough to make sure that when you press a key, it doesn't end up lower than the keys on the lower positioned row.

The placement of the keys themselves has to be done by eye, as they are not placed symmetrically on top of the standing parts. So first position them without glue, or put glue on the standing pieces and arrange the key tops by eye.

as used this project as a reference: https://plus.google.com/photos/106146409780363181514/albums/5600118928496641217?banner=pwa

 let me know if this is enough to get you started.

Willem

Wow!

   This is perfect thanks! I also know that janko build you referenced, I used it to make a 4 row janko on top of my casio privia. Anyway one question if I may. Since the black keys are at an angle what did you do to level all the keys that where attached to them and make them uniform with the rest of the white keys? Did you sand them level? 

Also I plan on making a wooden box with a handle, door to protect the keys and a pickup to plug into a PA as well, was thinking of something in maple or ash so it warms up the sound. A kind of box resonant chamber.

Thanks again!

[gguitarwilly]

Hi Steve,

I first glued the flat pieces of wood onto the plastic keys after I flattened them as best as I could. After that, all wooden pieces that are on the black keys point upwards at an angle.

This is compensated by the vertical pieces of wood which support the actual key tops. I sawed their bottom surface at an angle so they ended up as vertical as I could make them.(see at 1:53 minutes in the video)

I successfully 'transplanted' the keys to a new melodica.

Let's see your sound chamber! I look forward to seeing and hearing your completed project!

Willem

Op zondag 1 november 2015 20:09:35 UTC+1 schreef Steve Giedosh:

[Steve Giedosh]

Hi Willy!

My uniform melodica is taking shape!

So I went with a Yamaha Pianica melodica which to me not only sounds better but is a self contained unit and will mount far easier into the chamber I'm going to fashion. I also noticed that the keys are way flatter which made tho sanding much easier! I choose a Paduak/Maple layout, Padauk being one of my favorite tone woods. I'm going to make a maple box to match the keys and it should look really nice with a tung oil finish on everything. I couldn't find Bison Kit here in the states or equivalent nor could I get wood cut to the thickness needed so I went with the smallest square dowells I could find!. I went to order Bison Kit on amazon but it's back ordered till mid January so after a month of research and searching I went with a high quality medium viscosity CA glue which has worked very well. All I have left to do is measure and cut the posts and mount the keys and the melodica part is done but I just can't get the angle right and it's madding!  Do you have any other tricks to get it right? I want this to look and feel as good as possible! 

More pictures to come as it takes shape!

Steve

[gguitarwilly]

Hi Steve,

It's really fun to see someone going through the same labour I did. I was too lazy to take the keys off before sanding, but that is probably a good idea.

Will you round off the sides of the keys before glueing them on?

Sawing the upright posts is by far the most challenging part of the building; the accuracy there will make the difference between a spooky forest-like or a manhattan-like keyboard!

You have to get it right while sawing; if you start sanding, you'll only make the bottom round instead of flat. The trick is to fix the sawing blade. Try this:

get yourself a good, sharp mitre saw and a block of wood that has 100% accurate 90 degrees angle sides (you can get that by having someone with a table circle saw to make that)

Now use that block as a guide: position it along the sawing pencil line, and if necessary use spare dowels of the same thickness to support it.

You can use clamps to fix the block. Now saw while pressing the saw blade to the side of the wooden block while sawing.

It may seem like a lot of work (it is), but after ten pieces or so you will become more efficient.

good luck! Willem

Op donderdag 17 december 2015 20:39:29 UTC+1 schreef Steve Giedosh:

[Steve Giedosh]

Hey Willy!


First row is done!

My wife (who is a glass blower and a design genius) figured out how to by the angle! She measured the angle and taped a 3 mm glass rod to my miter box. This allowed me to get the angle now all I have to do is start building up the rows. After that I have to build the case and finish it. Almost halfway there!


Merry Christmas!

On Thursday, December 17, 2015 at 1:12:10 PM UTC-8, gguitarwilly wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
> It's really fun to see someone going through the same labour I did. I was too lazy to take the keys off before sanding, but that is probably a good idea.
> Will you round off the sides of the keys before glueing them on?
> Sawing the upright posts is by far the most challenging part of the building; the accuracy there will make the difference between a spooky forest-like or a manhattan-like keyboard!
> You have to get it right while sawing; if you start sanding, you'll only make the bottom round instead of flat. The trick is to fix the sawing blade. Try this:
> get yourself a good, sharp mitre saw and a block of wood that has 100% accurate 90 degrees angle sides (you can get that by having someone with a table circle saw to make that)
> Now use that block as a guide: position it along the sawing pencil line, and if necessary use spare dowels of the same thickness to support it.
> You can use clamps to fix the block. Now saw while pressing the saw blade to the side of the wooden block while sawing.
> It may seem like a lot of work (it is), but after ten pieces or so you will become more efficient.
>
>
> good luck! Willem
>
>
> Op donderdag 17 december 2015 20:39:29 UTC+1 schreef Steve Giedosh:
> Hi Willy!
>
>
>
>
> My uniform melodica is taking shape!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

[gguitarwilly]

Hi Steve,

Congrats on finding a method for getting the job done!

I'm very curious about the effect your sound box will have. 

happy holidays! Willem

Op donderdag 24 december 2015 23:58:07 UTC+1 schreef Steve Giedosh:

[Corky Peavy]

What did you use for key tops, Willem?  They look like they would be comfortable / pleasant to touch.    

[gguitarwilly]

Hi Corky,

a strip of oak wood, meant to cover the space between a wall and the end of floor planks. I cut it into pieces, then used a cork as a template for a circle. sawed half cirkles, then rounded of the edges with sanding paper.

The strip was 2 mm too wide, but I sanded that away.

Willem

Op zaterdag 16 april 2016 09:26:31 UTC+2 schreef Corky Peavy: