I want to present you the smallest member of Jaluino, Jaluino CELL as
it was named by Sebastien. Look at it as a prototype and a proposal.
The board is designed to be used on a breadboard and for rapid
prototyping.
This version use the USB bootloader of Albert and use the red LED as
boot mode indicator. Right now the red LED is connected at RA4 pin but
I'm open to suggestions. Unfortunately, the space is very small and I
was forced to remove the jumper which allowed disconnection of the
LED. You can do that removing the limiting resistor (but is nice to
have a boot mode indicator). Also not all components fits on the top.
One diode and three resistors (all smd) are soldered on the bottom.
The green LED is for power indicator and the blue jumper is for power
select (USB or external). The external power must be 5V regulated.
Why no regulator on board? To be able to address any project,
with any consumption requirements.
The board don't have an ICSP connector (no more space) but having
external pins, the microcontroller can be easily programmed if you
insert the board on a breadboard (without the fear of bending pins).
Well, the initial version was a lot bigger but Sebastien suggested that
if can be of maximum 5cm long it can benefit from the cheapest
Seeedstudio service and I considered it a good advice..
I hope that this board will be useful for someone.
--
Vasi
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "jallib" group.
To post to this group, send email to jal...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/jallib?hl=en.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
This Jaluino CELL looks nice. I agree that vias can't be under the SMD
PIC. As for the capacitors etc, I don't mind if they are through hole
components since SMD's are harder for beginners to get.
If you want, there could be two versions of this, one with all SMD
(and vias under SMD), and one with only PIC SMD (make the resistors
stand up). Vasile is right, don't mix.
So, where is Jaluino MAX? May I suggest 18f67j50 or 18f87j50.
I think all beginners use a breadboard. Are you saying that you did
not?

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
> I have never used solderless breadboards. And I will never use.
> Of course I have used 100mil pre-drilled breadboards, in which routes
> are connected with soldered (or rolled) wire-wrapping.
> ..
> If someone did such thing once, will never do it again, it's the
> best way of learning...from mistakes.
I agree with you on solderless breadboards: I've used them a few times
and wasted a lot of time on chasing issues that were not related to
the circuit. So okay for connecting a led, but that's it. From this
perspective the cell makes sense: the circuit you depend upon is on
the pcb and not on the breadboard. On the other hand: a jaluino board
with a small breadboard does the same.
The pre-drilled solder breadboards (or perfboards like Wouter calls
them in his shop) are my prefered way of working. Way more flexible
than pcb's, allow for incremental work and don't suffer from the
solderless breadboard instability. I use it for almost all 0f my
projects and have few dozen of those boards working.
Joep
I attached the project with the last (I hope) modifications. The
previous one had an USB connection error (due to changing two USB
connectors during the design and lack of pins information for the last
one used) - solved now. Also, I was able to add again the boot/testing
LED jumper. Removed the diode and a filtering capacitor is on back.
The board can be used also as USB-to-serial converter.
This is how it looks now:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4ReA2xb7uGFsrw5F90Vyhg?feat=directlink
And this is a previous attempt:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AyVR5C7f6p-vm9Dh5d47CQ?feat=directlink
Which one?
--
Vasi
I like them too but from my experience, are not so durable as the B
ones. Also, here is a little paradox. If I try to replace the big one
with the small one (be sure I wanted to use it), I'm forced to
increase the board size and it will be more expensive.
Here are the last modifications. Repositioned two resistors on the
back and a via moved under usb connector. And this is all.
--
Vasi
That's true. I've once asked my PCB assembling company, and they told me how PCBs are populated:
1. solder paste is applied to the top side for SMDs using a stencil
2. top-side SMDs are placed in the paste
3. top-side SMDs are soldered (infrared, hot-air or the like)
4. bottom-side SMDs are glued in place without solder paste
5. the glue is dried. This takes its time and therefore costs money
6. top-side THTs are placed
7. top-side THTs and bottom-side SMDs are soldered (possibly selective, wave soldering or the like)
8. bottom-side THTs are placed and soldered by hand. That's expensive, of course.
So, cheapest is SMD with parts on one side only. Next is THT only. Then come mixed SMD and THT with all parts on one side. Then SMD on both sides plus THT on top side only. The most expensive are PCBs with SMD and THT, both on both sides.
I'm not sure where to put "SMDs on both sides, no THTs" as it could well be that no glue is necessary then.
All of this only applies to automatically populated PCBs in perhaps 100 pieces or more. For low quantities, THT might even be cheaper as no solder-paste stencil has to be made.
Greets,
Kiste
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "jallib" group.
To post to this group, send email to jal...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/jallib?hl=en.
Joep
2010/11/3 funlw65(Vasi) <fun...@gmail.com>:
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
Joep
--
@+
J�rome
of them we cant be under 10€ for parts.

Removed a via (one via less).
--
Vasi
)To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
--
@+
J�rome
Jérome
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "jallib" group.
To post to this group, send email to jal...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/jallib?hl=en.
> So, FTDI or CDC ? FTDI indeed requires a driver, but doesn't CDC too ?? FTDI
> is also widely used, it's become a standard. I would prefer a USB converter
> acting as a FTDI device, but I think implementation is far from easy (and
> maybe not open).
Microsoft started off quite bad on the cdc driver. They do improve but
iirc there is still a bug with toggling RTS / DTR on XP. Don't know if
this is resolved in newer versions. FDTI drivers are much more stable
in my experience. Downside is you are not allowed to use the FTDI
drivers with other chips than FTDI. There are however implementations
of the driver on PICs that seem to work okay.
Joep
Has anyone considered microchips MCP2200 usb to serial converter chip? It's being sold for less than US$2,00.
Greets,
Kiste
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "jallib" group.
To post to this group, send email to jal...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/jallib?hl=en.

How you soldered the USB connector? I mean there, where the pad play
via role (GND pin).
Hmm, I looked better, not need to solder the GND
pin on both sides because you can solder the pins from the metallic
case on both sides. For the crystal I guess you used pins from an IC
socket?
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
I've once bought a breadboard and plugged a voltage regulator and a bcd to seven-segment-decoder on it. That was, if I remember it right, the only circuit I ever made on a breadboard. Since then, and this is about 20 years later, I make the more complex prototypes on perfboard or stripboard, and the simple ones in "hedgehog"-style.
However, for both hedgehogs and perfboard, this device can be useful. It can be plugged in a DIL socket.
Greets,
Kiste
Maybe for the CNC Router variant is better to have two vias in front
of USB connector?
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.
Maybe a mini-B USB connector because is easy to borrow a photo camera
cable to connect it (or using the cable from Pickit2 programmer)..
Yes, and I was right. Then Vasile Surducan redesigned the board and
managed to make it shorter. Still, I'm not convinced it will fit in
the 5cm request...
V.Surducan will make it without taking in account the 5cm limit
because he is making it at his CNC Router.
Vasi
On Nov 13, 11:16 am, Sebastien Lelong <sebastien.lel...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> 2010/11/13 funlw65(Vasi) <funl...@gmail.com>
>
> > Maybe a mini-B USB connector because is easy to borrow a photo camera
> > cable to connect it (or using the cable from Pickit2 programmer)..
>
> This is what I suggested but you reported it was actually taking more space
> in this design, for it's a SMD component, IIUC.
>
> Cheers,
> Seb
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "jallib" group.
To post to this group, send email to jal...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to jallib+un...@googlegroups.com.