Scx10 Ii 4 Link Conversion

[Yiraika Daimaru]

Withthe huge increase in popularity in the R/C Mega/Mud truck scene, we decided to offer these kits that work with your Axial SCX10 or SCX10.2 chassis. While the Axial AR60 axles provides a great base for heavily modified mud trucks, many are looking for that "tucked tire" look of a more narrow truck. Open up a whole new dimension of performance fun with your SCX10 with this conversion kit!

The trend started with ingenious builders using old AX10 scorpion side plates and bolting it to the SCX10 chassis rails, but as components for this legendary vehicle start to dry up, this modification became more and more difficult. Some were able to do a simple lift by adding shock tower plates, but this left the center transmission and motor high no longer optimized the 4-link suspension. This machined aluminum conversion kit for the SCX10 or 10.2 drops the center transmission/motor and skid plate while also allowing for a better center of gravity and 4-link layout.

The 2.5mm thick CNC machined aluminum chassis plates span from shock tower to shock tower following the contour of the SCX10 or 10.2 chassis rails with light weight cut outs that provides a scale look, while still maintaining strength and durability. All the holes on the chassis plates have been countersunk for a smooth factory look and to reduce snags. The shocks have been dropped lower to mount at chassis rail level, and with the included CNC machined aluminum shock tower blocks you maintain all the holes and adjustments at each corner of your truck.

Available in silver, black, or anodized green, this kit includes a pair of 2.5mm aluminum chassis plates, machined shock tower blocks, and all necessary mounting hardware. Complete installation instructions are available here: SCX10 Lift Kit Installation Instructions

Having started to use my Hilux more frequently I have been more unhappy with its articulation, now I know its a scale truck so I didnt want loads but the stock 10mm or so was just annoying. I have looked at other Highlifts that have been modified by their owners but the link locations never seemed great. I then happened to come upon the Junfac kit which looks the part and at a great price, would have been rude not to buy it . Jun is a great guy to deal with and a week or so later a nicely parcelled kit arrived and the build began.

Opening the box you find a small pack with all the bits you need, bar the instructions but these can be found on Junfac's website short on words but the clear pictures do make up for that. What you have in the pack is 10 very polished links, 2 black anodised plates, several polished spacers and a large amount of bolts, nuts and ballends.

For the build you need the parts L1 and L10 (2 of each) or 2 pair of the Junfac Duralmin Axle Mounts. You start by cutting the parts as shown, I did this with sharp side cutters and then finished the cleaning up with a small sanding drum on my dremel. They then bolt to the axle with supplied screws and nuts. (you have to pay attention to which way they bolt round)

We then come to the link building and all 8 are exactly the same so little chance of a mistake here. The photo instructions guide you to tighten the long grub screw into link and then screw on the ball end but i felt that didnt leave much of a thread for ball end so instead i tightened the grub screw into ballend and then fitted it to link.

Its just a matter now of bolting the links to axles. the triangulation of links is produced by using spacers, the top links are spaced inwards off the mounts and the lower links outwards. And then similarly when you bolt the links to the anodised plates the lower links bolt flush to the plate but the upper link is spaced out. Once all that is bolted up you are left with a full kit ready for bolting up to the chassis.

The instructions again are clear when it comes to mounting the 4 link kit to the highlift chassis but omit to mention that for the hilux you need to remove the battery tray and relocate the battery (if you remove a chassis spacer from the back the battery fits nicely up between the chassis rails which is what I did. As for mounting of the shocks it is simple, Junfac do a few diffferent length shocks from 94mm up to 124mm which are ideal for the job, but I wanted to keep a more scale height and seeing as I was going to stick with 1.9 wheels I used a set of 85mm ones I had lying around.

Up to know the kit and instructions have been faultless but I do think they fall down a little when it comes to the final set up, i.e. fitting the steering servo. The servo is repositioned next to the gear change servo and the photos shows clearly the cutting you have to make to the arms BUT its a little ambiguous about the servo placement and takes a little working out. Once I figured it out it all lines up and the steering works perfectly with no bumpsteer which surprised me so Junfac have got all their angles worked out perfectly. The other thing that wasnt identified on instructions is the kit bullbar(bumper) wont fit once steering is on as the links foul on it due to the steering links now being mounted infront of the axle instead. I didnt want to run the Hilux without a bumper so after looking closely at it I realised that removing some of the aluminium to allow links to clear would solve the problem, out came the hacksaw and now it bolts up and clears the links.

With it all together it looks great and the articulation is much improved, up to a little over 4inch now (maybe more than I expected and need not necessarily a bad thing). The feel is very smooth no binding or tight spots as a whole I highly recommend this kit if you want a more capable Hilux or F350.

hey BiggusDitchus the irony is i only had juswt posted a question about this kit and as u responded to me you had put your review up. Cheers for that. May i ask where abouts are you and did you purchase locally or over the Net. Im in Australia and have only seen a site via ebay in korea to purchase this kit. Your conversion makes me want to do it but i may have to wait a lil while until i get some extra cash toi get shocks as well. Gd pics and info, Thanks

Waiting for my 4-link to get here from Junfac. Ben I am sure that Junfac will ship to Aus. Just check right after I bought the 4-link kit and servo relocating plate seperate they now have a kit with everything including ali axle mounts and the servo plates for $109. Awesome value for money I think.

Hello, I know this is an old topic but I just want to ask some questions. I am trying to do a 4 link suspension setup on my F350, and I was just wondering if there is any side - to - side movement on this setup? I have tried setting up the rear, and when all the link rods are installed, there is about 10mm side to side movement (lateral?). Is that normal?

Provided either the top or bottom links form at least one triangle (at the front and rear), then you shouldn't have any lateral movement except for ball-end slop

Using OP's setup as example, both upper and lower links form a triangle if you extend their line out.

You only need to triangulate either the top or bottom links, but it doesn't matter if both triangulate - just try to get the lower links converging in the opposite direction to their respective uppers

If all of your links are running closer to parrallel, then you'll get lateral movement

I just purchased the Junfac Tundra kit from Amazon for cheap but it appears to be missing only these parts below. Would you be able to give me a measurement on them? I know they are M3, but that is all I know. Junfac has 7x2.5mm, 7.5x10mm, and 7x5mm.

I think I have pretty much figured it out although as I have Junfac/Gmade 93mm aero shocks the ride height is increased slightly this has the effect of angling the front shocks, the bottom of the shocks are further back so I have put some spacers at the bottom to make the shocks more vertical. This is a fairly fine adjustment as otherwise it will interfere with the on axle steering.

Another problem i have is that because I have remote difflocks there is a bar / pin protruding from the diff housing (it is a lever that gets pulled to lock the diff via a cable) the on axle steering servo has to be mounted higher up which means the gear shift servo above has to be higher and as a consequence it does not seem to be shifting gear too well (the rod between the servo arm and the gearshift shaft is at an angle) I was wondering whether to put the gear shift servo behind the gearbox somehow.

These problems are impacted either way by the fact that i increased the ride height further by moving the top suspension mount down to the lower holes, is obviously increases the on axle servo clearance as a plus but increases the suspension geometry angles etc as mentioned above.....

- just re-read your post I would say the Junfac dimensions are correct - the long is probably 10mm (7.5mm in diameter) and the medium half at 5mm and the short 2.5mm and slightly less diameter than the other two.

3a8082e126