Need new propellor

[ni...@ondrejka.com]

One of the blades broke off the original Martec folding prop on my 1996 J/92 with original Yanmar 1GM10. From browsing the group, I see more recommendations for FlexoFold. Any other recommendations? Does anyone know the gear reduction ratio? 

Thanks,

Nick

[Ragtime!]

From the Yanmar Service Manual:
Reduction Ratio
Ahead/Astern: 2.21/3.06 | 2.62/3.06 | 3.22/3.06
Propeller RPM,
DIN.A Rating
Ahead/Astern: 1540/1113 | 1298/1113 | 1055/1113

[ni...@ondrejka.com]

Thanks Bob. 

[Tyler, Pete]

I have used these for many years

the varifold 2 blade is great

http://www.bruntons-propellers.com/Varifold/Varifold_brochure.htm

The company work out pitch and size for you depending on engine power and boat spec

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Best Regards

Pete

Pete Tyler

Managing Director

Neilson Active Holidays
Locksview
Brighton Marina
Brighton
BN2 5HA

Tel: +44 (0)1273 666101

www.neilson.co.uk

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[John Madey]

Check the data plate on the transmission on mine it's 2.62:1  in forward. There are different ratios available for different sized boats but the transmission is a single speed.  

I think I ended up with a 10 in diameter 14 pitch flex fold. The flex fold guys were very helpful in matching the prop. 

John

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[Max]

my vote is for flex-o-fold racing - motoring speed 0.5-1 knot more than std volvo - reverse...not so good but who really cares

max

[John Madey]

Just looking at my notes the stock folding Yanmar/martec is a 13 dia X 11 pitch.  I think I ended up with a 14 dia x 10 pitch flex fold

Like Max said not a lot of top speed improvement but I noticed a lot more punch for getting through waves and reverse is now useable  

 John

[RJA Armstrong]

Martec on Mischief. Very happy with it.

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[Dick Heijdra]

France Helices on Hydra, European equivalent of Martec. Could do with some more oomph though… Same can be said for the Yanmar 1GM10, rugged, lightweight but very rudimentary and of modest power. Reverse braking takes a lot of anticipation. Will keep it the way it is, too expensive to step up to Beta twin cyl. in combination with Flex-O-Fold. But who cares about the engine? After all we're speaking of sailing boats and that's where our dear J92 excells! 

cheers,

Dick Heijdra

[ni...@ondrejka.com]

Okay. I got the boat out of the water and the new propellor already delivered to the yard (just went with the original spec Martec 13x11).

The strut got damaged along with the propellor. Has anyone else had to replace the strut? Any advice?

Nick

[Ragtime!]

Nelson's Marine replaced one locally (El Pellin?) and was able to
borrow the strut mold from TPI. You might try Kendra at J/Boats and
ask where the J/92 tooling went (Pearson Composites maybe).

[John Madey]

Did the strut last year. On the classic the strut is glass. TPI/J Boats lost the tooling in the various moves. J boats Europe may still have it.

There are two companies that cast bronze struts on the east coast US. Ill have to dig out my notes for the names but I did get the names from jboats tech support. One of them has the tooling to do it, I know this because I paid for it but the knuckle heads at the boat yard refused to tell me where they got it from. (long story best told over beers)

If you don't find the guy that did mine the foundry will want what's left of the old one to make a pattern. Expect 4-6 weeks lead time to digitize, tool, cast and machine the part.

It's bolted in to a recess in the hull and then faired in.

It you can fix the one you have or get one from France, do it.

Don't forget to check the straightness of the shaft and you may want to give the engine mounts a good look too

John

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[glorybuoy]

Nick,
 Our strut was fractured but still attached and aligned.
 We removed evidence of previous repair on the strut and faired the bottom of the boat back to ply over a area of approx 9" around the strut.
 The whole area was then laminated with West and 3 or 4 layers of crossplyed glass a smooth finish being achieved using peel ply (in our case A4 poly pocket and masking tape).
 Very satisfying and very easy.

David

[Tyler, Pete]

If by the ‘strut’ you mean the P-bracket?

We had to do ours this winter after getting a net around the prop and loosening the bracket

This needs to be done by a professional, it needs cutting out and re-glassing and also lining up to ensure you don’t get wobble on your prop shaft.  Not a big job for a fibreglass guy, but needs your engineers involved too

Whilst getting a new prop I would advice to upgrade to a decent folding one with max pitch and diameter, need to match against your engine and boat weight.  The prop guys can work it out, but remind them its a slippery hull shape, so you get the max drive!

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Best Regards

Pete

Pete Tyler

Managing Director

Neilson Active Holidays
Locksview
Brighton Marina
Brighton
BN2 5HA

Tel: +44 (0)1273 666101

www.neilson.co.uk

P Please consider the environment before printing this email

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