tiller pilot

[Andy Sharp]

Has anyone installed the Raymarine ST-1000 on their J92. If so, can
you snap some pics and post them please? Thanks.

Andy
#61

[Don Hedges]

Can anyone provide pictures of their swim ladder, my wife will not go to
Catalina with me unless I can get her back on the boat.

Don Hedges
Turn Key

Andy
#61

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[Todd Aven]

I have an ST-1000+ on Thin Man. I've posted various photos in the News section on thinmansailing.net over the past few years. Shouldn't be too hard for you to find what you need.

Cheers,
Todd

[Andrew Oeftering]

I'm trying to do exactly the same thing.. But I don't see any photos of a
tiller pilot on thinmainsailing.net. I even did a key word search.

My key question is the following. The instructions illustrate at least
three methods of installation. I'm thinking the cantilever mounted on the
cockpit wall makes the most sense in order to get the ST1000 positioned the
requisite 18 inches from the rudder axis point. It appears I would need an
extension from the screw-in mount that would jut out at least 4 -5 inches
from the cockpit wall. I'm a little uncomfortable with that and would like
to extend only enough to allow the ST1000 to mount and/or swing out of the
way based upon Bob Johnson's description in an earlier post(approximately 2
- 3.5 inches) then attach an extension to the push rod end to make up the
difference. I've been trying to reach out to Raymarine tech support to see
if such an installation would work. They are forever "valuing my business'
but not actually answering the phone. I see a cantilever extension. I see
a push rod extension. But I don't see where they are combined within the
installation instructions. Any ideas much appreciated.

Andy Oeftering
Computer Troubleshooters

Red Bank - Eatontown - Tinton Falls, NJ
732-212-1001

-----Original Message-----
From: j92o...@googlegroups.com [mailto:j92o...@googlegroups.com] On

[Don Hedges]

I have one on Turn Key and will take pictures and forward them next time I
am down at the boat.

Don Hedges

[Todd Aven]

Mine is installed in the fashion described in the owner's manual as "cantilever mounting". There is a round base fitting on the starboard side wall of the cockpit, and I have an aluminum piece that screws into the base and projects out about 3-4". The autpilot's mounting pin sits in a corresponding hole on this piece. The cantilever fitting does not resemble the one in the manual.

When I'm not using the autopilot but have it rigged, I simply lift it off the tiller, swing it aft and rest the pushrod on the cockpit sole. When I'm stowing the autopilot, I unscrew the cantilever mount.

[Pete....@neilson.com]

I had to modify the screw in cylinder cantilever mount. It was easy just cut it down to about 2 inch in length and got the machine shop to drill a new mounting hole for the auto helm

Need to measure carefully to get the pushrod centred at mid throw

I also had to made a wedged washer out of wood to get the bar horizontal. This needs making first before you cut and drill the mounting rod

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[RJA Armstrong]

I have a 2000 installed. The pilot socket is mounted on the floor behind the traveler. i have the tiller bracket mounted under the tiller. I have about 2000-2500 miles on it with not much problem.

[Andy O]

Todd,

Couple of questions. Did you need to add a 'wedge' as described in
Pete's post below? The pin at the base end of the ST1000 appears to
swing at an angle that would appear to compensate for the sloped wall
of the cockpit, so is it necessary to have the cantilever extension
mounted horizontally? Also if possible could you supply two key
measurements. 1) The length of your extension. 2) The height from the
cockpit sole to the center of the cantilever base fitting. I had this
second measurement marked perfectly until the yard erased the mark
during some cockpit gelcoat work.

On May 2, 3:34 pm, Todd Aven <t...@avenshaven.net> wrote:
> Mine is installed in the fashion described in the owner's manual as "cantilever mounting". There is a round base fitting on the starboard side wall of the cockpit, and I have an aluminum piece that screws into the base and projects out about 3-4". The autpilot's mounting pin sits in a corresponding hole on this piece. The cantilever fitting does not resemble the one in the manual.
>
> When I'm not using the autopilot but have it rigged, I simply lift it off the tiller, swing it aft and rest the pushrod on the cockpit sole. When I'm stowing the autopilot, I unscrew the cantilever mount.
>

> > For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/j92owners?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[Andy O]

I'm assuming you're covering the hole with a cap when not in use to
prevent water from fouling the fitting and potentially the cockpit
floor. How far above the floor does the unit rest while in use?

On May 2, 5:06 pm, RJA Armstrong <sledd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a 2000 installed. The pilot socket is mounted on the floor behind the
> traveler. i have the tiller bracket mounted under the tiller. I have about
> 2000-2500 miles on it with not much problem.

> On May 2, 2011 12:23 PM, "Andy Sharp" <acsh...@roadrunner.com> wrote:> Has anyone installed the Raymarine ST-1000 on their J92. If so, can

> > you snap some pics and post them please? Thanks.
>
> > Andy
> > #61
>
> > --
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>
>
>

[Ragtime!]

Too bad our photo files are gone.

Mine uses the cantilever mount that is cut off shorter as Pete
describes. The wedge is a good idea - I have to tie the ram down
because under compression the pin pops out of the socket (due to the
slope of the cockpit wall) and all hell breaks loose. Installing a
wedge has been "on the list" for awhile.

I use the same socket for a 2000, the 4000 rams and for the latter
when connected to the emergency tiller/rudder - i.e. there's some
wiggle room in the dimensions. Less than 18" from the rudder post and
you get faster response, or a bit farther than 18" and you get more
power/smoothness. The ram isn't quite level and it's not quite
perpendicular to the tiller either, but it still works fine.

As an aside, there's a HUGE step up in performance from the 2000 to
the X-5. I only use the 2000 as a backup - it's okay for motoring
while getting sails up/down or light upwind work with no waves. On
the other hand, with the X-5 in vane mode (or the S1G before that), I
can sleep with the kite up offshore.

@Don, I have Ragtime!'s old swim ladder around someplace. In fact I
just ran across the mounting brackets yesterday - one is bent but
could be straightened in a vice. It's a well-made telescoping unit (4
steps I think) but kind of heavy to hang on the transom. I'll try to
track down the ladder itself and snap a picture of it. I'd sell it
pretty cheap since I haven't used it. I use a Plastimo pull-down
emergency ladder in a bag. Much lighter and I can stow it when not in
use.

[Andrew Oeftering]

Just read the specs on the X-5. Not planning any offshore passages but if I were, this would be a must have

Sent from my iPhone

[RJA Armstrong]

No need, the socket is brass and goes through the entire floor. Probably should go to west system website and follow their instruictions for mounting in a cored floor. I just had my cockpit redone with a light weight closed cell material and glassed over. Looks factor fresh and I don't have to worry about water intrusion. I had the same system with the balsa core. My 2000 has worked fine in up to 25 knots. I was not sailing downwind with spin up like Ragtime does but was bringing boat back from Mexico to Tampa Bay

[Todd Aven]

There is no wedge in the installation on Thin Man. I've never used it in
nasty conditions, so maybe I've got a lurking problem (which I'll ignore
for now).

From a picture of the cockpit while I was at the top of the mast, I can
see the longitudinal position is between the stern rail forward leg and
the spinnaker block u-bolt.

When I'm back at the boat tomorrow night, I'll measure the cantilever
extension and the height of the base above the cockpit sole.

Cheers,
Todd

[Todd Aven]

After speaking with a number of people with more knowledge of stainless
fabrication than me, I've come up with the attached design to serve as a
receiving socket / reinforcing brace for the tiller.

If anyone has suggestions for improving the design, please let me know.
Otherwise, my next mission is to find someone to fabricate this for me
at a reasonable price. Again, if you have ideas for where to get it
fabricated, I'm all ears.

If you're interested in buying one if I get a batch of them made, chime in.

Thanks,
Todd

[Andrew Oeftering]

If you're looking for a machinist, I've got a great one.  He's done lots of boat work.  I assume there's some welding that needs to happen here.  Or perhaps you need a simple flat piece of stainless with the appropriate holes drilled and corner rounding that can be pressed into shape. You're looking at this because??  You find the existing tiller brace insufficiently long to provide the proper support to the tiller?? The existing brace consists of two plates on opposite sides of the tiller.  This one appears to brace on three sides with 4 screws holding the tiller fast to the brace from underneath.

[Todd Aven]

The standard tiller straps transfer torque via the horizontal screws and potentially the pivot bolt. The laminate is horizontal. Spot the design flaw?

This design will allow the tiller butt to have a tight interference fit and torque will be transferred without any reliance on the fasteners. The fasteners prevent  the tiller from working forward or aft and go through the laminate layers in the more robust vertical orientation. 

No doubt a bit over-engineered, but entirely necessary in my mind after sailing in a couple of gales last year. 

[Andrew Oeftering]

Yes.. As the tiller bolt area rots from overwork and water penetration makes for shaky life expectancy on the tiller.  And BTW… do you still have my old tiller.  I may want it back cuz now need a spare of my own.  Also, if you’d like me to forward this drawing of yours to my local machinist, I can get you a quote.  Lemme know.

 

Andy Oeftering
Computer Troubleshooters

Red Bank - Eatontown - Tinton Falls, NJ
732-212-1001

---

From: j92o...@googlegroups.com [mailto:j92o...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Todd Aven

Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 9:18 AM
To: j92o...@googlegroups.com

[Todd Aven]

You spoiled the surprise. Yes, I have your tiller and I was going to "comp" you for a brace. 

I have the stainless "emergency" tiller, my old broken tiller which can live again with judicious use of epoxy and a brace, your old tiller which could go the same route, and a brand new, unfinished blank from H&L. All I need now is the brace. 

[Andrew Oeftering]

I emailed my machinist and I should have a quote tomorrow.

[Ragtime!]

Re tiller butt (aka "boat butt"), we single-handers recommend diaper
rash cream.

[Todd Aven]

What about winch grease?

On May 3, 2011, at 11:42 AM, "Ragtime!" <bobsa...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Re tiller butt (aka "boat butt"), we single-handers recommend diaper
> rash cream.
>

[Ragtime!]

Wrong PH factor.

Occasional exposure to the natural air and a bit of sun is also known
to help.


On May 3, 9:04 am, Todd Aven <t...@avenshaven.net> wrote:

> What about winch grease?

[david....@comcast.net]

Todd,

 

I had IDASAILOR.com fabribate a bracket very much like this on my boat Zut Alors last year.  They are out of Idaho and make rudders and the like. THey made it out of 316 stainless, in one piece as they welded it.

 

Mine was built like a brick shit house, so if you contact then, you can use the drawings I had done and just ask them to make it out of thinner stock.

 

If you want pictures, I can get them this week

 

David

[Todd Aven]

David,

I would like to see the drawings for the bracket they made. I don't think that I would ask for the stock to be thinner, as the 1/8" thickness I'm specifying is essential for the fit.

Thanks,
Todd

[Aaron]

Todd -
Was down in the shop today and talked with one of the guys about
making them up. He's comfortable folding it on two edges and welding
the top on. I have to work up a price for materials and labor, but let
me know how many you're thinking we'll figure out a price.
Aaron

On May 4, 7:33 am, Todd Aven <t...@avenshaven.net> wrote:
> David,
>
> I would like to see the drawings for the bracket they made. I don't
> think that I would ask for the stock to be thinner, as the 1/8"
> thickness I'm specifying is essential for the fit.
>
> Thanks,
> Todd
>

> On 5/4/2011 4:15 AM, david.legr...@comcast.net wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Todd,
>
> > I had IDASAILOR.com fabribate a bracket very much like this on my

> > boat/Zut Alors /last year.  They are out of Idaho and make rudders and

[Todd Aven]

Given the lack of response, I'll have to assume that there is demand for
no more than 3 pieces.

[Larry Folsom]

Depending on price I am in.  I have a new tiller and would love to mount it in a new bracket.  Cheers,  Larry

Larry Folsom
President
American Video and Security Ltd.
1421 E. Sunset Rd. #2
Las Vegas, NV 89119
Off (702) 896-4643
Fax (702) 896-5414
Nevada Cont.#0074482
Nevada Fire Lic.#F-434
www.avsdigital.com

 

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[Andrew Oeftering]

Todd,

Did you get my email regarding the quote from my machinists??

Andy Oeftering
Computer Troubleshooters

Red Bank - Eatontown - Tinton Falls, NJ
732-212-1001

-----Original Message-----
From: j92o...@googlegroups.com [mailto:j92o...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Todd Aven
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 4:46 PM
To: j92o...@googlegroups.com

[Thin Man #14]

I measured the vertical position of the tiller pilot base ring as 10" from the center of the ring to the "corner" where the cockpit sole turns into the cockpit side wall.

[RJA Armstrong]

Andy,

Do you still need pictures of the installation? Mine is very simple and have worked perfectly for a number of years and a couple of thousand miles. I installed the socket in the floor and mounted the bracket underneath the tiller (clears the floor by an inch or so). My autohelm 2000+ rests on the footbrace and then attaches to the tiller bracket. I generally have my backstay adjustment line tight over the back part of the pilot to hold in the socket on rough days which has worked great.

 

The owner before me had the pilot mounted on the cockpit deck which to me would seem to be in the way. On the floor it is out of sight and out of the way.

 

Bob Armstrong

Mischief #007

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 7:23 AM, Thin Man #14 <to...@avenshaven.net> wrote:

I measured the vertical position of the tiller pilot base ring as 10" from the center of the ring to the "corner" where the cockpit sole turns into the cockpit side wall.

--

[Massimo Polo]

Bob

on my side I would appreciate to see some pics !

best regards

M Polo

[Andrew Oeftering]

Thanks.. but I'm all good.  Installed it about 2 weeks ago

[Off Watch]

Does any one know what the angle for the wedge would be?

I have a Raymarine 1000 and just got the cantiliver kit and hope to
install it next weekend. The boat is four hours away so I have no way
to measure the angle of the side of the cockpit.

Is the class members list not working anymore? I have filled in the
new membership list twice since Feb. with no change for Hull #90.


On May 2, 1:45 pm, <Pete.Ty...@neilson.com> wrote:
> I had to modify the screw in cylinder cantilever mount. It was easy just cut it down to about 2 inch in length and got the machine shop to drill a new mounting hole for the auto helm
>
> Need to measure carefully to get the pushrod centred at mid throw
>
> I also had to made a wedged washer out of wood to get the bar horizontal. This needs making first before you cut and drill the mounting rod
>
> Sent by Good Messaging (www.good.com)

>
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From:   Todd Aven [mailto:t...@avenshaven.net]
> Sent:   Monday, May 02, 2011 08:35 PM GMT Standard Time
> To:     j92o...@googlegroups.com

> Subject:        Re: [j92owners] tiller pilot
>
> Mine is installed in the fashion described in the owner's manual as "cantilever mounting". There is a round base fitting on the starboard side wall of the cockpit, and I have an aluminum piece that screws into the base and projects out about 3-4". The autpilot's mounting pin sits in a corresponding hole on this piece. The cantilever fitting does not resemble the one in the manual.
>
> When I'm not using the autopilot but have it rigged, I simply lift it off the tiller, swing it aft and rest the pushrod on the cockpit sole. When I'm stowing the autopilot, I unscrew the cantilever mount.
>
> On May 2, 2011, at 2:55 PM, Andrew Oeftering <aoefter...@comptroub.com> wrote:
>
> > I'm trying to do exactly the same thing.. But I don't see any photos of a
> > tiller pilot on thinmainsailing.net.  I even did a key word search.
>
> > My key question is the following.  The instructions illustrate at least
> > three methods of installation.  I'm thinking the cantilever mounted on the
> > cockpit wall makes the most sense in order to get the ST1000 positioned the
> > requisite 18 inches from the rudder axis point.  It appears I would need an
> > extension from the screw-in mount that would jut out at least 4 -5 inches
> > from the cockpit wall.  I'm a little uncomfortable with that and would like
> > to extend only enough to allow the ST1000 to mount and/or swing out of the
> > way based upon Bob Johnson's description in an earlier post(approximately 2
> > - 3.5 inches) then attach an extension to the push rod end to make up the
> > difference.  I've been trying to reach out to Raymarine tech support to see
> > if such an installation would work.  They are forever "valuing my business'
> > but not actually answering the phone.  I see a cantilever extension.  I see
> > a push rod extension. But I don't see where they are combined within the
> > installation instructions.  Any ideas much appreciated.
>

> > Andy Oeftering
> > Computer Troubleshooters
>
> > Red Bank - Eatontown - Tinton Falls, NJ
> > 732-212-1001
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: j92o...@googlegroups.com [mailto:j92o...@googlegroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Todd Aven
> > Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 12:50 PM
> > To: j92o...@googlegroups.com

> > Subject: Re: [j92owners] tiller pilot
>
> > I have an ST-1000+ on Thin Man. I've posted various photos in the News
> > section on thinmansailing.net over the past few years. Shouldn't be too hard
> > for you to find what you need.
>
> > Cheers,
> > Todd
>
> > On May 2, 2011, at 12:23 PM, Andy Sharp <acsh...@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
> >> Has anyone installed the Raymarine ST-1000 on their J92.  If so, can
> >> you snap some pics and post them please?  Thanks.
>
> >> Andy
> >> #61
>

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[Massimo Polo]

guesstimating from my pics, at 15 degrees you shouldnt be that far off

max