J/42 In The Boat Yard
Todd Stevens
Todd Stevens
On Aug 18, 2024, at 11:59, 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
After two years of live-aboard cruising, s/v Wild is taking a break for the summer hurricane season, on the hard in Guaymas/San Carlos Mexico. I've got a couple of weeks scheduled in the work yard before relaunch and I'm stocking up the SUV with a bunch of project materials to drive down for the occasion.There are a few potential projects that I'm unsure about and could use the benefit of any experience folks might have.First, upon haul-out and pressure-cleaning, a number of fine gelcoat cracks became visible, all around the base of the keel, in the fairing compound area. Is this normal for these boats? This is actually the first boat I've owned with a bolt-on keel. Not sure what, if anything, I should be doing about this. New bottom paint by Star Marine Services scheduled sometime next month.
<IMG_7894.jpeg>Second, I believe that a second fuel tank was a factory option on these boats, but mine does not have it. Has anybody tried to retrofit one? I would sure like to get rid of some of the jerry cans lashed on deck. I've been carrying 30 gallons in the tank and 30 on deck, as fuel stops can be kind of rare in Baja, especially on the Pacific side. (Thinking specifically of the Baja Bash). I doubt that any useful-sized rigid tank could be shoved through the sail locker hatch, but maybe I'm wrong? One idea is to secure a bladder tank at the bottom of the sail locker, with a wood grating above. Another is to replace one of the other tanks. e.g one of the 50 gallon water tanks, or the forward holding tank. But summer is speeding by and I doubt that I have time left to get any custom size fabricated. Hopefully, some of the projects already in the queue (below) will help reduce fuel consumption.Next, I'm considering removing the Honda generator I have lashed on deck, and instead installing a 3000 watt alternator on the main engine. (3JH2TE) This would require replacing all of the engine pulleys, for which I don't immediately have the specs. I suspect that the bottom pulley may already be custom made to accommodate the Seafrost engine-driven refrigeration. Does anybody have more information or experience with this? OK, this one would actually increase fuel consumption, or shift it from gasoline to diesel anyway.I've already got quite a few things lined up for the trip and the yard time:New main sail and genoa (yay!) and Tides sail track. Some new sheets and halyards.New 12VDC refrigeration to replace old 110VAC unit. It's an Isotherm "SP" unit which will require replacing the galley sink through-hull. And hopefully reduce or eliminate running the engine twice a day just to cool the fridge with the Seafrost system. Thanks for previous advice on this, guys!Speaking of through-hulls, I already upgraded all the navigation electronics last winter, but the forward-scan sonar transducer has been waiting for a haul-out to install. The old depth transducer was replaced with a DST 810 that fit into the same housing. The obvious option is just to replace the neighboring old dead ultrasonic speed transducer with the forward-scan. Some modification of the hole may be needed, but I am lead to believe that the little square depression under the V-locker is an un-cored section of hull provided for that express purpose. However, the installation instructions require that the transducers be located a meter apart. ?? Since they point away from one another, due to the hull shape, I wonder if I could get lucky using the old location?? Not sure if there's a good way to test this while on the hard.And due in part to the new refrigeration loads, I'm expanding the solar array and house battery bank. There are two new panels (constrained by what will fit on the SUV roof rack), replacement structural members for the tower, and another LiFePO4 battery awaiting the trip. The existing wiring and MPPT controller should still be within specs. The battery box under the nav bench is full, but I'm thinking that a fourth battery will fit in the bottom of the aft hanging locker, just on the other side of the bulkhead. Not sure about actually getting it through the opening and rotating it into place though...Then there's a box of small odds and ends, including stuff to service the MaxProp, which was hard to get in Mexico.Finally, I've been having issues with the transmission - more and more, it requires goosing the engine a bit to get it to drop into forward. Especially after running for a day. I suspect that the repeated shock is ruining the gears in the MaxProp. The boatyard guys couldn't immediately recommend any Yanmar mechanic in the area. So I'll need to study up on this problem. Not sure if this is something within my shade-tree mechanic capabilities. (Kelp-forest mechanic?)This seems like quite enough trouble already for two weeks in the yard! But everything except the through-hulls could be finished up after launch if needed.Any insights appreciated.Thanks,Todd
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rers...@netscape.net
Joe Murli
On Aug 18, 2024, at 4:39 PM, 'rers...@netscape.net' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
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David Jade
We had a PSS on our previous boat – never gave us any trouble but I will say they are not maintenance free. That bellows has to be replaced every 6 years and on our old J Boat, that required disconnecting the shaft from the transmission and sliding it back to get the bellows changed. That required removing the prop to make enough room to slide the shaft back without hitting the rudder. The bellows is the weak part of them. If you do get one, get the optional/extra retaining collar on the shaft as well. Extra security on top of the shaft set screws. Oh, and don’t ever reuse the set screws – one use only.
The Lasdrop dripless seems like an improvement over the PSS seal and the yard we used to go to in Seattle (CSR) preferred them. It is also takes a little less room to install than the PSS.
Our current J Boat has a Volvo dripless and my understanding is that is has the least-worrisome failure mode compared to others, but that’s about all I’ve heard about them. That and you have to grease and burp them periodically.
David _/)
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Bernie Coyne
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 5:49:16 PM
To: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: RE: [J/4X-owners] J/42 In The Boat Yard
Todd Stevens
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David Jade
We’re right now in the process of upgrading to big alternators on our J/46. That upgrade switches everything to a serpentine belt system. They are using Balmar serpentine adapter kits but I do think they will require some custom machining to get them to fit and keep alignment with the pulley for the SF compressor. I don’t have photos of ours yet but I do have some photos from another J/46 that did something similar (and kept their SF compressor). I don’t know that the J/42 is similar or not but I suspect it might be with the SF system, balancer, etc…
But it sounds like you’re maybe removing the SF compressor as part of your fridge upgrade? If so, then it might not require the custom machining, etc… to just get the proper alignment just with a single alternator and water pump. That’s essentially what the Balmar kit takes care of.
I’ll attach a photo from the other J/46 (that kept their SF compressor) and if this looks helpful, let me know and I’ll share the rest of them. The Balmar adapter is the blue pulley behind the balancer wheel. There is also a retrofit pulley on the water pump and the alternator to make it all work. At a certain point (amps) when upsizing an alternator, you pretty much have to switch to a serpentine belt to eliminate V-belt slippage. Should be less belt wear and dust as well.
We’ve just replaced our fridge and freezer system as well with a DC evaporator system and that meant we could also remove the SF engine compressor. So we used that space for a second alternator along with a serpentine belt. We’ll run two 5800 watt alternators (48v ones but that’s another post I’ll make when its finished).
David _/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 3:00 PM
To: J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [J/4X-owners] J/42 In The Boat Yard
After two years of live-aboard cruising, s/v Wild is taking a break for the summer hurricane season, on the hard in Guaymas/San Carlos Mexico. I've got a couple of weeks scheduled in the work yard before relaunch and I'm stocking up the SUV with a bunch of project materials to drive down for the occasion.
There are a few potential projects that I'm unsure about and could use the benefit of any experience folks might have.
First, upon haul-out and pressure-cleaning, a number of fine gelcoat cracks became visible, all around the base of the keel, in the fairing compound area. Is this normal for these boats? This is actually the first boat I've owned with a bolt-on keel. Not sure what, if anything, I should be doing about this. New bottom paint by Star Marine Services scheduled sometime next month.
Second, I believe that a second fuel tank was a factory option on these boats, but mine does not have it. Has anybody tried to retrofit one? I would sure like to get rid of some of the jerry cans lashed on deck. I've been carrying 30 gallons in the tank and 30 on deck, as fuel stops can be kind of rare in Baja, especially on the Pacific side. (Thinking specifically of the Baja Bash). I doubt that any useful-sized rigid tank could be shoved through the sail locker hatch, but maybe I'm wrong? One idea is to secure a bladder tank at the bottom of the sail locker, with a wood grating above. Another is to replace one of the other tanks. e.g one of the 50 gallon water tanks, or the forward holding tank. But summer is speeding by and I doubt that I have time left to get any custom size fabricated. Hopefully, some of the projects already in the queue (below) will help reduce fuel consumption.
Next, I'm considering removing the Honda generator I have lashed on deck, and instead installing a 3000 watt alternator on the main engine. (3JH2TE) This would require replacing all of the engine pulleys, for which I don't immediately have the specs. I suspect that the bottom pulley may already be custom made to accommodate the Seafrost engine-driven refrigeration. Does anybody have more information or experience with this? OK, this one would actually increase fuel consumption, or shift it from gasoline to diesel anyway.
I've already got quite a few things lined up for the trip and the yard time:
New main sail and genoa (yay!) and Tides sail track. Some new sheets and halyards.
New 12VDC refrigeration to replace old 110VAC unit. It's an Isotherm "SP" unit which will require replacing the galley sink through-hull. And hopefully reduce or eliminate running the engine twice a day just to cool the fridge with the Seafrost system. Thanks for previous advice on this, guys!
Speaking of through-hulls, I already upgraded all the navigation electronics last winter, but the forward-scan sonar transducer has been waiting for a haul-out to install. The old depth transducer was replaced with a DST 810 that fit into the same housing. The obvious option is just to replace the neighboring old dead ultrasonic speed transducer with the forward-scan. Some modification of the hole may be needed, but I am lead to believe that the little square depression under the V-locker is an un-cored section of hull provided for that express purpose. However, the installation instructions require that the transducers be located a meter apart. ?? Since they point away from one another, due to the hull shape, I wonder if I could get lucky using the old location?? Not sure if there's a good way to test this while on the hard.
And due in part to the new refrigeration loads, I'm expanding the solar array and house battery bank. There are two new panels (constrained by what will fit on the SUV roof rack), replacement structural members for the tower, and another LiFePO4 battery awaiting the trip. The existing wiring and MPPT controller should still be within specs. The battery box under the nav bench is full, but I'm thinking that a fourth battery will fit in the bottom of the aft hanging locker, just on the other side of the bulkhead. Not sure about actually getting it through the opening and rotating it into place though...
Then there's a box of small odds and ends, including stuff to service the MaxProp, which was hard to get in Mexico.
Finally, I've been having issues with the transmission - more and more, it requires goosing the engine a bit to get it to drop into forward. Especially after running for a day. I suspect that the repeated shock is ruining the gears in the MaxProp. The boatyard guys couldn't immediately recommend any Yanmar mechanic in the area. So I'll need to study up on this problem. Not sure if this is something within my shade-tree mechanic capabilities. (Kelp-forest mechanic?)
This seems like quite enough trouble already for two weeks in the yard! But everything except the through-hulls could be finished up after launch if needed.
Any insights appreciated.
Thanks,
Todd
--
David Jade
We had a Forward scan sonar (B&G/Navico) on our previous J boat and I really liked it. They also shoot down just like a normal depth transducer (90 degree horizon to straight down beam pattern and about 15 degree side to side wide). If it is close to your 810, I could see its reflected signal maybe interfering. I don’t know if they use the same frequency or not.
Also keep in mind that it needs to be fairly level to the horizon when mounted. That may require fairing of the thru hull fitting, inside and outside (they come with a block for doing that in some kits). Any tilt could give some wonky readings (although you can calibrate for fore/aft tilt - but not side to side tilt from what I remember).
Another thing to keep in mind is that they really only see 4 times the water depth forward from where it is located. That’s the best case, despite what the marketing says. So put it as far forward on the hull as you dare to give your self enough warning in shallower water. 40’ forward range in 10’ of water is not a lot of warning – less than a boat length – from where the sensor is located.
David _/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 3:00 PM
To: J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [J/4X-owners] J/42 In The Boat Yard
After two years of live-aboard cruising, s/v Wild is taking a break for the summer hurricane season, on the hard in Guaymas/San Carlos Mexico. I've got a couple of weeks scheduled in the work yard before relaunch and I'm stocking up the SUV with a bunch of project materials to drive down for the occasion.
There are a few potential projects that I'm unsure about and could use the benefit of any experience folks might have.
First, upon haul-out and pressure-cleaning, a number of fine gelcoat cracks became visible, all around the base of the keel, in the fairing compound area. Is this normal for these boats? This is actually the first boat I've owned with a bolt-on keel. Not sure what, if anything, I should be doing about this. New bottom paint by Star Marine Services scheduled sometime next month.
Second, I believe that a second fuel tank was a factory option on these boats, but mine does not have it. Has anybody tried to retrofit one? I would sure like to get rid of some of the jerry cans lashed on deck. I've been carrying 30 gallons in the tank and 30 on deck, as fuel stops can be kind of rare in Baja, especially on the Pacific side. (Thinking specifically of the Baja Bash). I doubt that any useful-sized rigid tank could be shoved through the sail locker hatch, but maybe I'm wrong? One idea is to secure a bladder tank at the bottom of the sail locker, with a wood grating above. Another is to replace one of the other tanks. e.g one of the 50 gallon water tanks, or the forward holding tank. But summer is speeding by and I doubt that I have time left to get any custom size fabricated. Hopefully, some of the projects already in the queue (below) will help reduce fuel consumption.
Next, I'm considering removing the Honda generator I have lashed on deck, and instead installing a 3000 watt alternator on the main engine. (3JH2TE) This would require replacing all of the engine pulleys, for which I don't immediately have the specs. I suspect that the bottom pulley may already be custom made to accommodate the Seafrost engine-driven refrigeration. Does anybody have more information or experience with this? OK, this one would actually increase fuel consumption, or shift it from gasoline to diesel anyway.
I've already got quite a few things lined up for the trip and the yard time:
New main sail and genoa (yay!) and Tides sail track. Some new sheets and halyards.
New 12VDC refrigeration to replace old 110VAC unit. It's an Isotherm "SP" unit which will require replacing the galley sink through-hull. And hopefully reduce or eliminate running the engine twice a day just to cool the fridge with the Seafrost system. Thanks for previous advice on this, guys!
Speaking of through-hulls, I already upgraded all the navigation electronics last winter, but the forward-scan sonar transducer has been waiting for a haul-out to install. The old depth transducer was replaced with a DST 810 that fit into the same housing. The obvious option is just to replace the neighboring old dead ultrasonic speed transducer with the forward-scan. Some modification of the hole may be needed, but I am lead to believe that the little square depression under the V-locker is an un-cored section of hull provided for that express purpose. However, the installation instructions require that the transducers be located a meter apart. ?? Since they point away from one another, due to the hull shape, I wonder if I could get lucky using the old location?? Not sure if there's a good way to test this while on the hard.
And due in part to the new refrigeration loads, I'm expanding the solar array and house battery bank. There are two new panels (constrained by what will fit on the SUV roof rack), replacement structural members for the tower, and another LiFePO4 battery awaiting the trip. The existing wiring and MPPT controller should still be within specs. The battery box under the nav bench is full, but I'm thinking that a fourth battery will fit in the bottom of the aft hanging locker, just on the other side of the bulkhead. Not sure about actually getting it through the opening and rotating it into place though...
Then there's a box of small odds and ends, including stuff to service the MaxProp, which was hard to get in Mexico.
Finally, I've been having issues with the transmission - more and more, it requires goosing the engine a bit to get it to drop into forward. Especially after running for a day. I suspect that the repeated shock is ruining the gears in the MaxProp. The boatyard guys couldn't immediately recommend any Yanmar mechanic in the area. So I'll need to study up on this problem. Not sure if this is something within my shade-tree mechanic capabilities. (Kelp-forest mechanic?)
This seems like quite enough trouble already for two weeks in the yard! But everything except the through-hulls could be finished up after launch if needed.
Any insights appreciated.
Thanks,
Todd
--
Todd Stevens
We’re right now in the process of upgrading to big alternators on our J/46. That upgrade switches everything to a serpentine belt system. They are using Balmar serpentine adapter kits but I do think they will require some custom machining to get them to fit and keep alignment with the pulley for the SF compressor. I don’t have photos of ours yet but I do have some photos from another J/46 that did something similar (and kept their SF compressor). I don’t know that the J/42 is similar or not but I suspect it might be with the SF system, balancer, etc…
But it sounds like you’re maybe removing the SF compressor as part of your fridge upgrade? If so, then it might not require the custom machining, etc… to just get the proper alignment just with a single alternator and water pump. That’s essentially what the Balmar kit takes care of.
I’ll attach a photo from the other J/46 (that kept their SF compressor) and if this looks helpful, let me know and I’ll share the rest of them. The Balmar adapter is the blue pulley behind the balancer wheel. There is also a retrofit pulley on the water pump and the alternator to make it all work. At a certain point (amps) when upsizing an alternator, you pretty much have to switch to a serpentine belt to eliminate V-belt slippage. Should be less belt wear and dust as well.
We’ve just replaced our fridge and freezer system as well with a DC evaporator system and that meant we could also remove the SF engine compressor. So we used that space for a second alternator along with a serpentine belt. We’ll run two 5800 watt alternators (48v ones but that’s another post I’ll make when its finished).
David _/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 3:00 PM
To: J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [J/4X-owners] J/42 In The Boat Yard
After two years of live-aboard cruising, s/v Wild is taking a break for the summer hurricane season, on the hard in Guaymas/San Carlos Mexico. I've got a couple of weeks scheduled in the work yard before relaunch and I'm stocking up the SUV with a bunch of project materials to drive down for the occasion.
There are a few potential projects that I'm unsure about and could use the benefit of any experience folks might have.
First, upon haul-out and pressure-cleaning, a number of fine gelcoat cracks became visible, all around the base of the keel, in the fairing compound area. Is this normal for these boats? This is actually the first boat I've owned with a bolt-on keel. Not sure what, if anything, I should be doing about this. New bottom paint by Star Marine Services scheduled sometime next month.
<image001.jpg>
Second, I believe that a second fuel tank was a factory option on these boats, but mine does not have it. Has anybody tried to retrofit one? I would sure like to get rid of some of the jerry cans lashed on deck. I've been carrying 30 gallons in the tank and 30 on deck, as fuel stops can be kind of rare in Baja, especially on the Pacific side. (Thinking specifically of the Baja Bash). I doubt that any useful-sized rigid tank could be shoved through the sail locker hatch, but maybe I'm wrong? One idea is to secure a bladder tank at the bottom of the sail locker, with a wood grating above. Another is to replace one of the other tanks. e.g one of the 50 gallon water tanks, or the forward holding tank. But summer is speeding by and I doubt that I have time left to get any custom size fabricated. Hopefully, some of the projects already in the queue (below) will help reduce fuel consumption.
Next, I'm considering removing the Honda generator I have lashed on deck, and instead installing a 3000 watt alternator on the main engine. (3JH2TE) This would require replacing all of the engine pulleys, for which I don't immediately have the specs. I suspect that the bottom pulley may already be custom made to accommodate the Seafrost engine-driven refrigeration. Does anybody have more information or experience with this? OK, this one would actually increase fuel consumption, or shift it from gasoline to diesel anyway.
I've already got quite a few things lined up for the trip and the yard time:
New main sail and genoa (yay!) and Tides sail track. Some new sheets and halyards.
New 12VDC refrigeration to replace old 110VAC unit. It's an Isotherm "SP" unit which will require replacing the galley sink through-hull. And hopefully reduce or eliminate running the engine twice a day just to cool the fridge with the Seafrost system. Thanks for previous advice on this, guys!
Speaking of through-hulls, I already upgraded all the navigation electronics last winter, but the forward-scan sonar transducer has been waiting for a haul-out to install. The old depth transducer was replaced with a DST 810 that fit into the same housing. The obvious option is just to replace the neighboring old dead ultrasonic speed transducer with the forward-scan. Some modification of the hole may be needed, but I am lead to believe that the little square depression under the V-locker is an un-cored section of hull provided for that express purpose. However, the installation instructions require that the transducers be located a meter apart. ?? Since they point away from one another, due to the hull shape, I wonder if I could get lucky using the old location?? Not sure if there's a good way to test this while on the hard.
And due in part to the new refrigeration loads, I'm expanding the solar array and house battery bank. There are two new panels (constrained by what will fit on the SUV roof rack), replacement structural members for the tower, and another LiFePO4 battery awaiting the trip. The existing wiring and MPPT controller should still be within specs. The battery box under the nav bench is full, but I'm thinking that a fourth battery will fit in the bottom of the aft hanging locker, just on the other side of the bulkhead. Not sure about actually getting it through the opening and rotating it into place though...
Then there's a box of small odds and ends, including stuff to service the MaxProp, which was hard to get in Mexico.
Finally, I've been having issues with the transmission - more and more, it requires goosing the engine a bit to get it to drop into forward. Especially after running for a day. I suspect that the repeated shock is ruining the gears in the MaxProp. The boatyard guys couldn't immediately recommend any Yanmar mechanic in the area. So I'll need to study up on this problem. Not sure if this is something within my shade-tree mechanic capabilities. (Kelp-forest mechanic?)
This seems like quite enough trouble already for two weeks in the yard! But everything except the through-hulls could be finished up after launch if needed.
Any insights appreciated.
Thanks,
Todd
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<IMG_3475.jpg>
Todd Stevens
On Aug 18, 2024, at 15:40, Todd Stevens <todds...@me.com> wrote:
Thanks for that, David. It might be useful to see more photos. I am planning to keep the engine-driven refrigeration components - just getting rid of the 110VAC stuff. So one problem would be how everything aligns with the new pulleys or extensions thereof. Might not be possible to order parts for this by long-distance. Then again, there might be a machinist in La Paz or someplace who can make it work. There isn’t really room in the engine compartment to move components forward or back very much. There is already a “box” built in to the side access hatch to accommodate the compressor, which sticks out farther than the wall of the compartment.
David Jade
Here’s a OneDrive link to a shared folder with all the photos I took of that other conversion. To me it looks like something custom was done for the SF pulley as well but I could be mistaken on that.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Avrdg4LTtmuH2iw1mXDZ_mz6YcfB?e=mJfsEp
They put in a large-frame 12v alternator and that required building a box on the other side (like the one for the SF compressor but smaller). This upgrade also required welding up a new heavy duty custom alternator mount. It’s a beefy system.
So are you also keeping your SF fridge cold plates with the SF compress as well as adding new evaporator plates for the new Isotherm system? Or are you trying to make the new Isotherm drive the existing cold plates like the 110VAC system does?
(In case it’s the later, well I can tell you that’s what we had and just ripped it all out – including the cold plates. We had SF’s largest DC compressor (BD XP) hooked up to the coolant lines from the removed 110VAC system and the DC system was just too small to freeze those cold plates in any reasonable amount of time. And they don’t function well as an evaporator plate either. We tried to make it work and while it sort of works, it ran about 85-90% duty cycle (5-6 hours on, 45 minutes off). They have so little BTU capacity compared to the 110VAC system (or engine system) and the cold plates take so long to react so the run cycle is very lopsided.)
David _/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 6:40 PM
To: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/D0E79F50-32E0-48D4-9768-943C78954F18%40me.com.
David Jade
If you can’t switch it off in software, then another way to do that is to put an NMEA 2000 power isolator on the drop and run a separate power drop and switch to it. We do this with our outside displays that have no power switch, so we can turn them off at night.
David _/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 7:02 PM
To: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/461E0D3B-D664-4827-B6C3-3CF808CDBDEA%40me.com.
S/V Sweet Ruca
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York.richardw
On Aug 18, 2024, at 19:21, S/V Sweet Ruca <rucas...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Todd Stevens
r...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Tom Keffer
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David Jade
Hey Todd,
I see from your picture you have a J/42L and I looked it up. This web page mentions some details on the optional 2nd fuel tank and lists it as a “30 gal Flexible fuel tank” mounted centerline, gravity fed. Maybe those clues will give you something to work with.
https://www.boats.com/reviews/l-stands-for-liveaboard/
David _/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 9:13 PM
To: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [J/4X-owners] J/42 In The Boat Yard
Refrigeration: Yes, I have a new evaporator plate that I will have to put one bend in to fit around the inside upper perimeter of the box. To do this without interfering with the cold plate or the sliding tray, I had to get one size smaller than I might have chosen otherwise. But the next size was “special order only” anyway. I think the one I have has the same part number that Tom mentioned previously.
Keel bolts: Wow! To get those keel bolt torque specs appears to require the one with the 27” (at its max range) or 48” handle! Quite a piece of kit to be hauling around for one use. (I suppose it could do the chain plates as well.) I’m not sure it would actually be possible to deploy the 48” in the available space. Does everyone carry one of these? I think I’ll query the yard…
Shaft seal: We have a discrepancy. One member says the stern tube diameter is 2” and another says 2-1/4”. This leads to two different part numbers. Any other opinions? Could there be variation among the boats? It’s the OUTER diameter that we need, I think.
Speaking of galley projects, I previously removed the folding jump seat from the “dinette” and installed the diesel heater in that space. (Love it there, when up north, though it doesn’t get much use in Baja.) The seat has been in my storage shed ever since. I’m thinking of taking it back to the boat and modifying it to make a fold-down shelf, just outboard of its former position and at counter-height or a bit higher. This will make a place to park small kitchen appliances while they’re in use, without consuming the meager working surfaces in the galley. (e.g. Blender, InstantPot, Air Fryer.) And maybe other uses as well. It’s already made of nice materials that match the galley, and has a fiddle. And with a bit of velcro, its cushion can replace the end cushion seen below. (There is usually a pile of pillows in that corner anyway.) The AC circuit formerly used by the refrigerator will now go to an outlet next to the shelf. The master port-side outlet, with the GFCI, will move from the back of a narrow cabinet, where it’s pretty much unusable, to the small strip between the fridge and the microwave. The 12V fridge control and temperature display will also go in that strip. All this doesn’t have to be completed in the boat yard. But it’s not as complicated as it sounds.
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Todd Stevens
On Aug 18, 2024, at 18:55, David Jade <da...@mutable.net> wrote:
Hey Todd,I see from your picture you have a J/42L and I looked it up. This web page mentions some details on the optional 2ndfuel tank and lists it as a “30 gal Flexible fuel tank” mounted centerline, gravity fed. Maybe those clues will give you something to work with.
David Jade
Hmm, I thought only the L model had the wooden interior.
I don’t know about the J/42 but on the J/46 the second tank is centerline, just forward of the steering quadrant – so yes under the traveler and higher than the primary tank (on the J/46). It gravity feeds into the main tank via a value under the aft cabin (near the primary fuel tank).
I know the long time (retired) J Boat dealer here in Annapolis and he owns a J/42. I’ll see if he remembers any details. I doubt he has the second tank but if he does, I’ll get some photos from him.
David _/)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2024 10:14 PM
To: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [J/4X-owners] J/42 In The Boat Yard
I don’t think mine is the “L model” though it has a lot of factory options. I’m kinda sorta gradually making it more like that, however.
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Todd Stevens
On Aug 18, 2024, at 19:29, David Jade <da...@mutable.net> wrote:
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Bill Bowers
On Aug 19, 2024, at 12:19 AM, 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
If the “L” came out in 2002, maybe mine (2000) is one of its prototypes.
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rers...@netscape.net
gale...@gmail.com
Todd Stevens
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Galen Todd
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Camden, ME 04843
Bill Bowers
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Todd Stevens
Todd Stevens
These may have to wait for the next haul-out, but I’ll ask around the locals. As long as I’m wrestling the shaft coupler off, it would be nice to change that cutless. Shoulda thought of it before.
Bud Cary
The transmission on my new to me J40 gave way in Connecticut as we were headed down the coast from Maine to Florida.
The yard that looked at it, and is in the process of replacing it, indicated that either at the time, or sometime since, the engine was replaced in 2002, the coupling between the shaft and transmission was not correctly aligned and so it wore down over time until it just gave up at about 2300 hours.
The original engine was JBoat’s standard Volvo 43 hp, the current engine is a Yanmar 3JH3E. In trying to align the coupling now, the yard was not able to adjust the engine position enough (the isolator mounts were all replaced with the new trans), to make it seamless so they felt that the best alternative was to remove the prop strut, align the coupling and then reinstall the strut where it needed to be to keep everything straight.
When taken out for a sea trial we experienced a knocking (almost like a clippity clop) that never existed before, even with the old trans. It’s barely noticeable, if at all, under 1500 rpm, but as throttle is increased up to 3000 rpm it becomes very obvious. It doesn't appear to be coming from either the engine or transmission itself but somewhere from the forward end of the through hull back to the prop.
Hopefully some adjustment now at the engine end will eliminate this but any thoughts, input or ideas to explore would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Bud
#82
Jim Bordeaux
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Sam Foster
I have the same reaction as Jim. Assuming your number 82 is still in the center engine series, there are two shaft bearings in the hull, one at the through-hull and then the strut bearing. One question I’d ask is did they replace, and align the new strut bearing with the through-hull bearing (which may have to change with a new strut angle)? With two bearings attached to the hull, it creates a system that determines the shaft angle coming to the engine. The in-hull bearing is immediately aft of the stuffing box is less common (J-Boats determined it was needed due to shaft length) and sometimes missed in the j/40.
Sam
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Bud Cary
Sam
Thanks for responding. To answer your first question, our engine was later design and iis under the companionway
Bud
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Jim Bordeaux
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Wayne Cassady
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Sam Foster
However, the aft engine placement, which started with hull #51, had its own advantages. Moving the engine aft created more usable interior space, particularly in the main cabin area, and also simplified the drive shaft alignment to the propeller. It also placed more weight towards the stern, which, depending on loading and sailing conditions, could improve downwind performance.
Ultimately, the difference comes down to trade-offs between handling characteristics and interior layout. Some owners preferred the handling with the engine further forward, while others appreciated the extra space and other benefits of the aft placement. It’s a matter of personal preference based on how the boat is used and the typical sailing conditions.”
On Oct 6, 2024, at 5:05 PM, Jim Bordeaux <jim...@gmail.com> wrote:
That is my educational tip for today - had no idea there was a change in engine location in later 40’s.
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Wayne Cassady
On Oct 6, 2024, at 8:42 PM, Sam Foster <jsfo...@gmail.com> wrote:
I knew there were two layouts but thought it was far later, closer to the intro of the j/42 variant. So I asked my assist “Bob” (ChatGBT). Here’s what he offered:
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Paul Kekalos
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Bud Cary
A little messy but attached picture is what we have … engine under the companionway
Alan Johnstone indicated that up to hull #80 Volvo was the standard engine .. starting with hull #84 Yanmar was the standard engine … hull #’s 81-83 may have had either as they used up remaining inventory of Volvo … we initially had a Volvo as #82
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Sam Foster
On Oct 7, 2024, at 6:43 AM, Bud Cary <afca...@gmail.com> wrote:
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<#82.heic>
Larry Romano
On Oct 6, 2024, at 10:22 PM, Paul Kekalos <pkek...@gmail.com> wrote:
J40 Hull #72 here (Ranger). Engine located under galley sink- mid-cabin placement.
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Larry Romano
John Hope
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Michael Murphy
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Milton Calder
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John Plominski
Todd Stevens
I'm headed back to the states with a used 140% RF laminate cruising genoa that I might part with if someone needs a spare - it has relatively little use (at least compared to the main) because the POs had a lot of head sails. There's a worn spot on the luff tape, but I've just been threading it through carefully and getting by. No other holes or tears that I can see. And speaking of spares, does anyone have a spare propeller they might want to part with?
Wayne Cassady
On Oct 17, 2024, at 3:22 PM, 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
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<IMG_8513.jpeg><IMG_8520.jpeg>
jeff thayer
Todd Stevens
On Oct 23, 2024, at 14:47, jeff thayer <jeff.fo...@gmail.com> wrote:
I will be replacing my folding prop w/ a feathering one on our J/42 which would make the take-off available. It is in good shape. I just prefer the efficiency of the feathering prop over the folding.
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jeff thayer
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Matthew Clark
I will be replacing my folding prop w/ a feathering one on our J/42 which would make the take-off available. It is in good shape. I just prefer the efficiency of the feathering prop over the folding.--On Thursday, October 17, 2024 at 1:01:09 PM UTC-7 Wayne Cassady wrote:Assuming you are probably not interested in a fixed blade prop.Sent from my iPhoneOn Oct 17, 2024, at 3:22 PM, 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I'm headed back to the states with a used 140% RF laminate cruising genoa that I might part with if someone needs a spare - it has relatively little use (at least compared to the main) because the POs had a lot of head sails. There's a worn spot on the luff tape, but I've just been threading it through carefully and getting by. No other holes or tears that I can see. And speaking of spares, does anyone have a spare propeller they might want to part with?Once the yard guys aggressively sanded down the prop and strut, in preparation for bottom paint, some fairly alarming pitting and corrosion was revealed. Not sure how much to panic, but it's almost time to splash the boat.On Friday, October 4, 2024 at 11:18:03 AM UTC-7 Todd Stevens wrote:I meant to add that now that everything is thoroughly dried out, there is a tiny bit of side to side play in the rudder (maybe 1/8”) and cutless (maybe 1/16”) bearings. Not stuff that I came prepared to deal with. Both seemed tight when they were wet.
These may have to wait for the next haul-out, but I’ll ask around the locals. As long as I’m wrestling the shaft coupler off, it would be nice to change that cutless. Shoulda thought of it before.
> On Oct 4, 2024, at 10:48, 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> Arrived in Sonora Wednesday with cargo of "projects" Spent most of Thursday trans-shipping stuff.
>
> Keel bolts done this morning. 5 x 1-1/4 inch SS bolts with 2 inch nuts. Pretty easy, once I removed the table to get swinging room for the 48-inch torque wrench. They all took a little tightening, but not more than three or four clicks of the ratchet, so maybe 1/10 of a turn or a bit more. So nothing to be unduly worried about, I think.
>
> For the record, the small one on the end is a 3/4-inch bolt (130 foot-pounds) with a 1-1/4 inch nut. Not a socket size that I have on hand, but I suspect that one is mostly for electrical grounding anyway.
>
> The big bolts all appear to have been doped with a bit of silicone sealant around the tops and bottoms of the nuts. IDK if this is standard practice, but I guess it can't hurt.
>
> On to the through-hulls and rooting-out the old 110VAC refrigeration. While periodically spraying down the shaft-coupler with penetrating oil in anticipation of the next job. Until it gets too hot to work in here.
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jeff thayer
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Matthew Clark
On Oct 24, 2024, at 11:59 AM, jeff thayer <jeff.fo...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Sam Foster
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jeff thayer
Sam Foster
On Oct 25, 2024, at 4:17 PM, jeff thayer <jeff.fo...@gmail.com> wrote:
Better performance = more thrust in reverse. At 20,000 lbs, the J/42 is a hard boat to stop, and the feathering prop w/ its ability to reverse pitch in reverse gear is a big advantage when maneuvering under power (IMHO).
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jeff thayer
Todd Stevens
On Nov 14, 2024, at 18:36, jeff thayer <jeff.fo...@gmail.com> wrote:
anybody happen to know what the gear reduction ratio might be on a J/42 w/ a Yanmar, 4JH3E installed? Gear box is a Kansaki KM84, but I have no idea what the ratio is.....
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Todd Stevens
Todd Stevens
gale...@gmail.com
Todd Stevens
Milton Calder
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Larry Romano
On Sep 11, 2025, at 8:29 PM, Milton Calder <milt....@gmail.com> wrote:
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Bernie Coyne
We had a similar problem in Maine with our J/46. We too increased the size of the inlet fitting from ¾” to 1” and the problem was dramatically reduced. We still get some seaweed but now it almost always ends up in the strainer instead of stuck in the inlet.
Bernie
J/46 #10 Mystic Rose
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David Jade
We also recently had this issue for the first time on our J/46. Our J/46 has these flush with the hull, seemingly molded-in strainer grids on all the intake through hulls to keep larger stuff from getting sucked in. So we never get anything that makes it into the filters basket. But, what we seem to get is growth between that outer grid and the seacock. Or something gets sucked up into that grid and gets stuck on the hull.
Does anyone else have these external flush, molded in grid/strainers. I have thought about removing them because of the pros/cons we see with trapping small stuff in a hard to clear out spot.
Btw, short of diving and poking tools in there to clear stuff out, I’ve often used our dingy air pump to blow them clear. I take off the hose between the sea cock and Groco filter, fit the pump into the hose and blast air through. It works quite well 99% of the time, if it is just soft growth or jellyfish, etc…
David _/)
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John Plominski
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Todd Stevens
|
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Todd Stevens
On Sep 12, 2025, at 10:18, 'Todd Stevens' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I find that I have to periodically go downstairs and clear barnacles out of the sink drains with a screwdriver. They’re the canary in the coal mine. Usually I clean out those larger through-hulls while I’m at it. I’ve sometimes been surprised that the engine was still cooling, with all the growth on the screen. Maybe it forms a filter of sorts?By the way… to start a new thread, go to the google groups page for this group
and click on the big button that says “new coversation.” Don’t just hijack another discussion.ToddJ/42 Wild
Todd Stevens
Just remembered I was going to order new trim & screen kits for the large Lewmar Ocean Hatches on my J/42. The bee situation in Baja demands drastic measures. From my notes, I make those out to be a #50 and a #60. Does that sound right? Measure twice, buy once, but the boat is 2000 miles away.