Prop question/port, and deck question

[david hills]

Hello Owners Group, I had noted some “vibration” with Raven in my first season and when the yard at Robin Hood pulled her out they stated that they believe that the vibration is because I have a two blade prop. They recommend a three blade prop and believe that will eliminate the vibration. Thoughts/similar experiences?
Also, when I had ports reset on the port side in April, I was told that the overlap was very minimal and they would have to be constantly watched/reset for them to avoid leaking. From what I have heard, which is minimal, the deck port openings are really bigger than they need to be, but I don’t think that makes sense. Again, thoughts/experiences?
Thanks very much to this great community,
David.
SV Raven J42

David Hills
Caretaker
Emery Farm
135 Piscataqua Rd
Durham, NH 03824
603-674-6412

I am my own strength, there is no other
I am my own weakness, there is no other
We are all one, there is no other

Sent from my iPhone

[John Burnett]

Hi David,

I've always been told to get a 3 blade prop instead of my 2 blade MAX prop to eliminate the vibrations.  But I just change the Aquadrive thrust bearings when the vibration gets too annoying.  That seems to work for me.   Do you have an Aquadrive?

cheers,

John

[david hills]

I have not heard of this until now. Sounds like an interesting idea. 

David Hills

Caretaker 

Emery Farm

135 Piscataqua Rd

Durham, NH 03824

603-674-6412

I am my own strength, there is no other
I am my own weakness, there is no other
We are all one, there is no other

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2025, at 3:38 PM, John Burnett <j...@seajava.com> wrote:



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[Sue Mikulski]

We had our transmission worked on because of the vibrating (hull #25) in maybe 2019.   We still had a vibration when docking.   In September 2022 we put a 3 blade prob on and were so happy with it.  The J/42 goes in reverse really well, but with the 3 blade even more efficient.  We had to turn around in the Tred Avon River, and back into the basin to starboard, then port, then starboard, and Paul nailed it; this was the week after we changed to the 3 blade.  It was better for coming into our dock is why we changed.  We were very happy with it. Now we didn’t race much, and that is 6 seconds I think.  I wouldn’t be surprised if the new owners change it back to the old prop. 🤷‍♀️

no vibration with the 3 blade!  

Sue and Paul

Full Circle (no longer the owners as of 2 mos ago) 

Sue Mikulski

410-212-0495

ssmik...@gmail.com

https://suemikulski.juiceplus.com

https://www.towergarden.com/#suemikulski

On Nov 20, 2025, at 2:37 PM, david hills <davideh...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello Owners Group, I had noted some “vibration” with Raven in my first season and when the yard at Robin Hood pulled her out they stated that they believe that the vibration is because I have a two blade prop. They recommend a three blade prop and believe that will eliminate the vibration. Thoughts/similar experiences?

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[david hills]

thanks Sue. 

David Hills

Caretaker 

Emery Farm

135 Piscataqua Rd

Durham, NH 03824

603-674-6412

I am my own strength, there is no other
I am my own weakness, there is no other
We are all one, there is no other

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2025, at 9:55 PM, Sue Mikulski <ssmik...@gmail.com> wrote:

We had our transmission worked on because of the vibrating (hull #25) in maybe 2019.   We still had a vibration when docking.   In September 2022 we put a 3 blade prob on and were so happy with it.  The J/42 goes in reverse really well, but with the 3 blade even more efficient.  We had to turn around in the Tred Avon River, and back into the basin to starboard, then port, then starboard, and Paul nailed it; this was the week after we changed to the 3 blade.  It was better for coming into our dock is why we changed.  We were very happy with it. Now we didn’t race much, and that is 6 seconds I think.  I wouldn’t be surprised if the new owners change it back to the old prop. 🤷‍♀️

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[Todd Stevens]

I did change from two-blade to three-blade on my previous boat, and it did improve things in every way. But I also changed everything from the coupler on back at the same time and repainted the bottom, so too many variables for a valid experiment.

[Dennis Boyd]

David,

I can't speak to the port question, but I know there are some threads on this topic.  I have one leaking port, but it's the square one over the forward head.    I not had time to investigate.   I do know that Bill rebedded most/all of the other ports.

Props.  Jaywalker still has the original, and its worn and over opens.    I watches three professional struggle to back the boat.   I am current planning remove this and add a three blade.  What I am learning is that there is no one prefect prop and like most things, you comprised to get a desired feature.   for me, right now.   Having authority when I back out of tight slips and waterways is major influence.    If I decide to race, then maybe I'll change back to  the 2 blade  (I am told they can remachine them) 

My leading choice right now is a three blade maxi-prop.   The distributor is suggesting a 3 Blade Easy 19” diameter by 13” pitch for a 1 1/4” shaft.  I challenged him on 18 vs. 19 and he is pretty firm that 19 is right size.    They are spendy.   If you serious, maybe we can get a volume discount.  I'm not holding my breath on them.   They did tell me that they would offer a 10% discount at the Miami Boat in Feb.   Not sure if they math works, unless I can sleep on demo boat at the show.  Or maybe a Spirit Airlines day trip?   

They told me that they are current absorbing the tariffs, but that a 5% price increase is likely in 2026

Dennis

Jaywalker 

J42 #6

[Todd Stevens]

MaxProp had a redesign a few years ago. I was told last year that the ability to rebuild older ones is fading away due to depletion of parts supply.  

I replaced mine due to severe corrosion and my time window was not long enough for a rebuild.  I’m a little undecided whether to leave the old one on board as a cruising spare or bring it back to the US for potential rebuild. (There is an opportunity next week.) Even disassembled, it’s a significant chunk of cargo.  

Todd

s/v Wild J/42

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[Dennis Boyd]

All,   forget to mention that the factory original 2 blade on Jaywalker is a "Martec" folding, not a Max Prop.

[gale...@gmail.com]

I have a VariFold 17x12R coupled to the 56hp 4JH3E Yanmar. It completely folds vs the Max-prop that feathers. Given that I sail mostly in pot invested Maine waters, I prefer folding over feathering! Reverse is good but not as strong as the Max. I am pleased with it.

Galen

J42 #57

[Fred Hawes]

Hello Owners Group. Anona is a J46, and Finnesse before her was a Swan 44. Both boats had two-bladed MAX Props, 25 years worth. Neither had vibration, or maybe I'm just insensitive. And the rebuild that PYI Inc offers was very thorough and perfectly balanced, I used to swap them out during bottom paint episodes, all due to my first diver, who neglected the prop to the tune of $2K. Also it's cheap to replace the cutlass bearing when you're painting the bottom.

Incidentally, while I'm on the topic of vibration, my 4JH3 drives a Kanzaki tranny with a cone shaped clutch. I have noticed that any strong application of power while changing the direction of rotation, causes the clutch to jump and clatter and clank, probably because it's slightly out of balance, but shifting with low rpm's, and THEN smoothly applying power works like you think it should, no drama. Don't know if this is about the prop, the time on the engine and tranny, technique or what.

As for hatches and portlights, I recently did business with Select Plastics in Conneticut, bought two kits and replaced the plexiglass and latches on the hatches over the forward head. Tony was helpful and his products fit perfectly, still no leaks, but they look great now, and I can lock them.

BTW, Anona will most probably be up for a new owner thgis spring....

Fred Hawes

619-920-6661

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/767ee949-e2ae-4d92-a5fc-603e83629942n%40googlegroups.com

.

[York.richardw]

Harken to Galen if you cruise Maine.  The only two times I fouled a pot on ARAGORN, I hooked it with the MaxProp.  And we were under sail both times.  

Then again, we did perfect a “untangle the pot” drill!

… Dick York 

On Nov 21, 2025, at 15:02, gale...@gmail.com <gale...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Michael Moradzadeh]

I've done an "untangle the sheet" drill.  How does an "untangle the pot" drill work?

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[Dick York]

Michael-

Typically, you hook a pot warp and it trails behind the boat a foot or so underwater.  The strategy is to stop the boat, take the pressure off that line, then (and only then) dive under for 10 seconds to free the pot warp and its buoy,

1.  Take down all sail to bring speed to zero.  Make sure your engine is off!

2.  With a boat hook, pick up the pot warp trailing behind the boat , probably from the sugar scoop.  Tie a 3/8 inch or so spare line to this with a rolling hitch.

3.  Slide the rolling hitch in the direction of the pot as far as possible.  Put the other end of the now-working line on a winch and grind it as far onto your boat as possible. 

4.  Slide the rolling hitch down toward the pot as far as you can reach, if you can hold the warp.  If the tide is moving fast, you may have to rig a second line and put a rolling hitch on the warp using that line, again as far down the warp as you can reach, just as you started with the first working line.

5. Repeat grinding in and sliding the hitch on your working line until the warp has a good amount of slack between your hitch and the snagged buoy (under your boat).  You want enough slack so you can work underwater without fighting any pressure on either side of the line.

6.  Now, put on your wet suit (if you are as adverse to cold water as I am), don mask and snorkel, get a serrated knife, put on your fins.  Go over the side.

7.  If your engine was off when you hooked the pot you may find you only need to free the buoy from your prop or rudder by hand, in one dive.  If your engine was in gear, you may have to saw with the knife, requiring several trips to the warp.  

8. Once freed, if you cut the line, be nice to the lobster fishermen and tie the buoy back on the warp to the pot.

9. Untie the rolling hitch, and get on your way, making sure you don't hook another pot.

...Dick 

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[Michael Moradzadeh]

WOW

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[Steven Novak]

I agree folding props tend to shed pot warps under sail better than feathering props.  For me, the slightly worse reverse performance was worth  the trade off, given the number of pots in Maine.  I have found Flexofold to be the best of the folders I’ve used in the past - reverse was manageable, you just had to plan out your maneuvers a little be to reflect the stopping not being instant, and give it a bit more gas.

I do have a spurs line cutter on the shaft, which tends to deal with warps underway pretty well and I highly recommend it.  Worst case, I do carry a razor sharp “hook knife” that clips to the end of a deck brush handle so you can cut the line from the deck.  Plus the standard wetsuit/fins if all else fails, but I’ve generally avoided having to get wet due to pots.

-Steve Novak

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