Re: [J/4X-owners] Digest for j4x-owners-group@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 1 topic

[Ed S]

I always assumed the step down on my shaft was to have metric where it mated to  the Yanmar and imperial for the prop hub. I believe mine has a sharp, machined step down, rather than a taper. Can’t recall at the moment. 

Regards,

Ed

------------------------------------

Ed Sitver

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On Jul 7, 2025, at 00:29, j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com wrote:



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• Shaft Seals? - 3 Updates

Shaft Seals?

York.richardw <york.r...@gmail.com>: Jul 06 04:47PM -0400 Wow!   Who would have guessed that!!   On Jul 3, 2025, at 10:45, 'rers...@netscape.net' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:   On my 2002 J42 the drive shaft was tapered by about 1/8" from where it came out of the stern tube, and where it went into the hub and flange at the transmission. The reason for this was the original shaft seal, supplied by J Boats, was the rubber Volvo sleeve type. The tapered shaft was necessary for this simple rubber shaft seal to work effectively, as it gave the rubber ribs inside the sleeve a sloping surface to bear against. Frequent application of silicone grease inserted between the sleeve and shaft (not easy) helped the Volvo seal last several years, but the friction finally led to a dripping leak. I discovered the taper on the shaft when I shifted to the PSS Dripless shaft seal and found that the 1 1/4" stainless steel rotor was too big for the nominal shaft size. I had to get a 1 1/8" rotor and have it machined to fit snugly on the shaft.   On Thursday, July 3, 2025 at 10:16:26 AM UTC-4 Fred Hawes wrote:   Not sure this weird fact pertains, but on J46 Hull #16, the shaft has two different diameters, which it turned out, matters. Unfortunately I don't remember the details, but it was like 1.25" and 30 mm. Several years ago replaced with a Volvo product, works great.   Fred Hawes   ANONA J-46 16/35   On Tuesday, July 1, 2025 at 08:54:37 AM PDT, Joe Murli <mysticpu...@gmail.com> wrote:   Gave up and went back to conventional packing. Simple and effective.   Joe Murli   “Sirena Bella” J44   Sent from my iPhone   On Jul 1, 2025, at 6:15 AM, Chris Campbell <camp...@ramoak.com> wrote:   I recently had mine leak also, and managed to stop the leak by moving the bellows closer to the collar to increase the pressure on the seal. In my case it was caused by getting a line snagged around the prop and almost certainly moving the shaft in the coupling, but it was easy enough to stop it by pushing the two elements of the seal closer together. I have no idea if that'll work to solve a leak caused by wear, of course. I do know that I've not serviced it myself in the four years I've owned it, so it's on the list for service and/or replacement this winter.   On Monday, June 30, 2025 at 11:51:27 PM UTC-3 Michael Moradzadeh wrote:   That's a definite need service item. They need it every five years or so or, they tell me, there is a risk of catastrophic failure.   Had I known that when I put in the last one, I'd have stuck with the stuffing box!   On Mon, Jun 30, 2025 at 7:29 PM Paul Kekalos <pkek...@gmail.com> wrote:   Hey all!   Well, the "dripless shaft seal" is dripping. Current model is a PSS from PYI. Ive tried cleaning, burping, etc, but still, it leaks. The currentunit is nearly 14 years old, so it seems like maybe its done its job. Anyway, may be time to replace. Wondering if anyone has tried any of the other shaft seal options (Lasdrop, Glide, etc...) or has any thoughts about replacement?   Appreciate any thoughts.   -PK   --   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "J/4X Owner's Group" group.   To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to j4x-owners-gro...@googlegroups.com.   To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/de4e429f-7bc4-4c04-b91e-eb6b1c5e3480n%40googlegroups.com.   --   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "J/4X Owner's Group" group.   To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to j4x-owners-gro...@googlegroups.com.   To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/aef120d1-84db-4769-8c72-9edc159b7f75n%40googlegroups.com.   --   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "J/4X Owner's Group" group.   To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to j4x-owners-gro...@googlegroups.com.   To view this discussion visit   https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/C7CBB177-780E-4D95-BF27-44DFC4CBCD82%40gmail.com   .   --   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "J/4X Owner's Group" group.   To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to j4x-owners-gro...@googlegroups.com.   To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/1693c7cb-0f16-48ec-b062-e6a898cdb6d8n%40googlegroups.com.

Rod Deyo <roder...@gmail.com>: Jul 06 02:40PM -0700 In 15 years and 20,000 NMs we've had Volvo, PYI PSS, and Tides Marine SureSeal shaft seals. All have worked fine over 5000 engine hours with proper use and maintence on a 1-1/4" shaft and MaxProp.   - The Volvo seals works suprisingly well if not worn and kept greased, but it always looked delicate and was replaced early-on with the PSS seal. - The PSS seal is easy to inspect and adjust, and works well with proper burping or with the newer vent models. It can heat up quite hot if water isn't getting to the bearing surface. The bellows needs replacement if hardened or takes a set that gives unequal pressure on the bearing surface. Following PYI's advice on using new set screws along with a locking ring or hose clamp is an important safety measure. - Four years ago, our very experienced local boat yard (CSR in Seattle) wouldn't warranty a replacement PSS seal because of a series of bellows failures from newer installed units and recommended instead the Tide Marine SureSeal. The Tides Marine seal uses a lip seal and seawater from the engine for lubrication and cooling. No burping is needed with the positive pressure flow. The plumbing on our original Yanmar 4JH3-E or newer 4JH57 cooling is similar the PSS vent. So far it has worked well after an initial breakin period and shaft placement adjustment.   All-in-all, I'd probably recommend the PYI PSS seal if they've now fixed their bellows problems.   Rod Deyo J/42 Northern Lights   > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/036E8888-750D-447B-822C-63451CD2E0EF%40gmail.com > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/036E8888-750D-447B-822C-63451CD2E0EF%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > .   Rod Deyo

Paul Kekalos <pkek...@gmail.com>: Jul 06 05:14PM -0700 Yes, I am inclined to replace like-for-like and stick with PSS Seal. Based on documentation found in paperwork from Previous Owner, teh current unit is nearly 14 years old, and definitely due for replacement. My inclination is to stick with what has been in place. Will report back,     On Sunday, July 6, 2025 at 5:40:46 PM UTC-4 Rod Deyo wrote:

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