IW40 keel question

[Knut S]

Hi folks,

Was trawling the internet for info after recently acquiring an IW40 when luckily dumping into this group!

Does anyone have any clue about the anatomy of the keels on these boats? I know the keel is lead and bolted onto a "bilge" or "shoe" on the bottom of the hull. Seen from the inside, the bolts are attached on a flat surface, so obviously there have to be some kind of fill towards the v- shaped bottom of the bilge. Anyone who knows what's in between here?

Trying to get my head around some minor hairlines in the gelcoat (or paint?) in the middle of the bilge, so thought it would be relevant to know.

BTW- according to previous treads it seems like some owners struggle finding the build/hull# on their boats. On mine, there was a badge inside the bow storage locker (port side).

BR,

Knut  #27

[salt dragon2]

Hi Knut,

I took off the keel because of some seepages and I can say to you that the material between the bilge and the attach of the keel is very strong fiberglass ( no sandwich with tender wood......!!!!!!!!!).

I would not worry about this at all.

regarding to the plan of the keel the only way is to send an e-mail to Brendan Abbot of the S&S or to Mystic Seaport Museum in Connecticut USA.  

 

The contact person at Mystic is:

Mindy Matheson

Collections and Research

Mystic Seaport

tel +1-860-572-5312

fax +1-860-572-5394

email mindy.m...@mysticseaport.org

www.mysticseaport.org

 (so I did) but what you will obtain is only designed without measures..

If you have intention to take a look to your keel have some informations for example bolt torques  .

Ciao a presto

[Leo]

Hi Knut, welcome.

We have Firefly, hull #6 and have never had the keel off but another group member (from Italy?) was planning to remove the keel I think. Look in previous threads.

The bottom of the fibreglass hull is flat, like the inside of the bilge, and mates with the top of the lead keel. Our keel bolts are slightly angled towards the centerline (looking down), so as to increase the effective width of the bolting. I assume that means half the studs have to be unthreaded from the lead to remove the keel, but perhaps Salt Dragon 2 has a definitive answer.

We did check the tightness of the keel bolts once.

We have a gelcoat crack near a floor beam, but it has not changed in 30 years. The hull flexes somewhat when the boat is ashore resting on the keel, and I assume the previous owner/builder painted the gelcoat before launching the first time.

Regards,
Leo

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[Knut S]

Thanks for swift replies and good tips! Will contact them for drawings, always good to have. Comforting to hear that the construction seems robust. Will probably do some grinding to (hopefully) verify that the hairlines are superficial and tighten the bolts.

onsdag 10. juni 2020 14.38.45 UTC+2 skrev ali del mare følgende:

Hi Knut,

I took off the keel because of some seepages and I can say to you that the material between the bilge and the attach of the keel is very strong fiberglass ( no sandwich with tender wood......!!!!!!!!!).

I would not worry about this at all.

regarding to the plan of the keel the only way is to send an e-mail to Brendan Abbot of the S&S or to Mystic Seaport Museum in Connecticut USA.  

 

The contact person at Mystic is:

Mindy Matheson

Collections and Research

Mystic Seaport

tel +1-860-572-5312

fax +1-860-572-5394

email mindy....@mysticseaport.org

[Leo]

Dear Francesco,

Would you please explain how you removed and refastened the keel. Do you have any photos? This would be useful for everyone. (Images must be sent as attachments).

The attached sketch shows the keel bolts as I see them, but I am only guessing inside the lead keel.

Thanks,
Leo

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[Knut S]

Thanks for your swift reply Leo.

I already got a reply from salt dragon so i'll follow up on that. I've no intentions to remove the keel, but anyway very good to know about the angled bolts if that will ever come up on the agenda!

My boat has been in one family since it was new (actually this family were the owners of the norwegian workshop that produced all the stainless parts for IW, and who later took over the shipyard). So I have a quite clear track on the history of the boat, and I know it grounded once back in the eighties. The cracks/hairlines look superficial to me, only in the flat part of the bilge and not following any of the stringers/beams, bulkheads or other structural parts of the hull. Also it seems like the builders have been quite generous with the amount of coating in the bilge, so maybe not so strange if there is some cracking. Anyway, to to be on the safe side i'll probably grind down to verify that cracks are not extending further down and have a professional look at it and maybe tighten the bolts. One easily gets paranoid by reading through misc. boat foras on the internet. Anyway, comforting to hear that this part of the construction seems robust.

BR,

Knut 

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[Leo]

Hi again,

NOTE: Sometimes when we reply to a group message it goes only directly to the one person. For the benefit of all members, please ensure that your reply goes to iw...@googlegroups.com.

Coincidence: we went onboard your IW40 in 1986 in Långedrag (Göteborg). It was the summer we had purchases ours, and we were getting ready to sail south when  she visited our harbour. What is her name?

Leo

On 6/10/2020 11:10, Knut Richard Straith wrote:

Thanks for your swift reply Leo.

I already got a reply from salt dragon so i'll follow up on that. I've no intentions to remove the keel, but anyway very good to know about the angled bolts if that will ever come up on the agenda!

My boat has been in one family since it was new (actually this family were the owners of the norwegian workshop that produced all the stainless parts for IW, and who later took over the shipyard). So I have a quite clear track on the history of the boat, and I know it grounded once back in the eighties. The cracks/hairlines look superficial to me, only in the flat part of the bilge and not following any of the stringers/beams, bulkheads or other structural parts of the hull. Also it seems like the builders have been quite generous with the amount of coating in the bilge, so maybe not so strange if there is some cracking. Anyway, to to be on the safe side i'll probably grind down to verify that cracks are not extending further down and have a professional look at it and maybe tighten the bolts. One easily gets paranoid by reading through misc. boat foras on the internet. Anyway, comforting to hear that this part of the construction seems robust.

BR,

Knut 
.

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 4:38 PM Leo <i...@3dym.com> wrote:

Hi Knut, welcome.

We have Firefly, hull #6 and have never had the keel off but another group member (from Italy?) was planning to remove the keel I think. Look in previous threads.

The bottom of the fibreglass hull is flat, like the inside of the bilge, and mates with the top of the lead keel. Our keel bolts are slightly angled towards the centerline (looking down), so as to increase the effective width of the bolting. I assume that means half the studs have to be unthreaded from the lead to remove the keel, but perhaps Salt Dragon 2 has a definitive answer.

We did check the tightness of the keel bolts once.

We have a gelcoat crack near a floor beam, but it has not changed in 30 years. The hull flexes somewhat when the boat is ashore resting on the keel, and I assume the previous owner/builder painted the gelcoat before launching the first time.

Regards,
Leo

On 6/9/2020 17:31, Knut S wrote:

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[Knut Richard Straith]

Yes, got aware after i posted to you, so reposted on the ‘public’ wall now😉

What a funfact! The name from previous owner is Bravo, so I guess we’ll stick to that.

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[Leo]

Thanks Knut.

I believe our seller bought the last hull from the Norwegian (his second IW40), as well as enough interior teak components for 2 boats. We still have some of those teak parts here.

As you must already know, changing an original boat name is "bad luck". When we bought ours, 10 years old, she had never been officially named in documents nor on the transom. The original owner had a small boat building company called Performance, and he referred to her with that name. However we found this too presumptuous, and christened her Firefly, assuming it was safe to do so. Strange but lucky for us.

As we will sell at some point, would you mind telling us where you found her listed and what the price was (asking or actual)?

Regards,
Leo

On 6/10/2020 11:45, Knut Richard Straith wrote:

[Knut Richard Straith]

Yes I’m aware so changing name is really not an option. And Bravo works just fine, has a little bit of history to it etc etc

We bought it near Fredrikstad, listed 585KNOK, got it for 500. I think the prices for boats in Norway is generally lower than in rest of europe (unlike almost everything else). Think I’ve read somewhere they’re ~25% lower related to being a non- EU country with the tax to EU countries that relates to it. Not qc’ed this info myself, but at least thats what I heard.

BR,

Knut

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