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Catherin Bergan

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Aug 2, 2024, 10:23:36 AM8/2/24

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As @Heyitsrick mentioned, most content on Roku channels uses Dolby Digital+, which usually cannot be transmitted over optical. But DD+ is "real" 5.1. If your AVR doesn't have HDMI ports, it likely doesn't support DD+ either. And as mentioned very few TVs will convert DD+ to DD. Unfortunately, for the majority of online streaming today, you need an AVR with HDMI ports and DD+ support. Otherwise, 2 channel stereo is all you are going to get.

I had the same problem. I was able to get it sorta fixed by moving the Roku from the ARC HDMI input to another standard input. THis at least allowed my 5.1 plex rips to stream properly via an optical cord to the receiver.

I did discover along the way that the native apps in my new LG tv are better than Roku's. The LG even transcodes DD+ down to standard 5.1 DD via the optical cable for my old receiver which doesn't have HDMI or DD+ ability. Finally can watch netflix in full surround!

Hey guys, I'm back! I bought a Timeleak HD72A and its given up the ghost. I have an Elgato game capture HD had I want to record HDCP encrypted content in 1080p. I bought one of these: -HD-MINI-HDMI-to-HDMI-AUDIO-Video-Converter-Decoder-Adapter-Remove-HDCP-KEY-Agreement-Audio/1851608529.html and was sent a defective item. I had to file a dispute with my cc company just to get me money back. Does anyone know where I can buy a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP from a reputable company that ships to Ireland?

Well I bought a 4 way HDMI splitter from a firm in Cardiff and output 3&4 are unprotected. I actually spoke on the phone to check this. Then I bought an Avermedia Game Capture HDII. My requirement was for a stand alone device which did not need a computer. It takes an internal drive up to 2 Tb formatted as NTFS. It saves as mp4 with rates of 10,12 and 15 Mbit/s. It also allows you to up load TS to YouTube but I haven't used this feature. You can also put in an external harddrive. I am not interested in Game Capture so I then bought an Avermedia Ezrecorder which was much cheaper through Amazon at 79 - it is also standalone but does not have an internal drive but does allow for timed recordings which is what I missed - it also allows rates up to 20 Mbit/s. My Sharp AQUOS TV plays mp4 directly from the Harddrive.

Something else comes to mind - when I was backing up my Sky box a lot of the stuff was in SD. I want to copy this as SD to a DVD from an HDMI output. The DVD only has an RGB input (I guess analogue). You can get HDMI coverters to VGA, Composite (rubbish) and Component YUV (digital RGB??). Has anyone seen an HDMI to RGB converter???

Update (3 Feb 2015): I bought and tested the Oppo-BD103, and it failed. Not only did it not decode the audio, for some reason the HDMI splitter wasn't able to successfully strip HDCP. Didn't bother to do much investigation as to why not, because I'm at the point where I believe I need to give up on using my Mac for this solution and buy a PC with capture cards that will do what I want.

my nVidia System Configuration Panel is showing it as "Silicon Image, Inc. HDMI TV" Screen, but i somehow believe, that the timeleak hd70a "only" supports D-Sub - Analog Video-In as Input?..because it shows me everytime a BlackScreen on Honestech HD DVR 2.5.

using internal Audiostreaming function - has been checked, because when i disable it, i cannot start recording, i get an error message, but when it is checked i do no receive the error message just a black screen when recording.

Is that correct? Because if this is true, then i am in a whole lot of trouble, because my Mainboard does not work with IGFX, because my CPU does not support it, so i can "only" connect with my nVidia Graphics Card.

First i thought, it is because i have my Monitor connected via DVI-D Port & the Audio Signal cannot be transmitted, so i bought today a DVI-D to HDMI Adapter which i already plugged in, but i still do not have Sound while Capturing?!

Thanks for working it out here, GameofThrones. Many of us who want to set up such systems appreciate knowing how others resolve the usual unexpected problems. (And please post a screenshot or two to demonstrate the quality you're getting at your various settings.)

Thought I would add my experience. My main criteria was for a stand alone system - it was just too much bother to use a computer. I started off with a 4 way splitter where at least outputs 3 and 4 were non-hdcp. This came from a firm in Cardiff. I then got (on recommendation) an Avermedia Game Capture HD II which has facility for an internal drive up to 2 Gb and an external one as well from Amazon UK. This goes to 10 to 15 Mb/s. An hours prog produces an MP4 file between 4 - 8 Gb at 1080/30 - I then found the cheaper 79 Amazon UK Avermedia EZRecorder 130? which is the same but does not have an internal drive port - it goes to 20 Mb/s and has a timed recording facility which is really useful. The same remote works for both.

All this allows me to archive my SkyHD box in HD. And other HD streams as well. With USB 1Tb USB3 drives coming down to 35 it is cheaper than using DVDs or Bluray discs and both my TV's read USB MP4's directly.

Thanks for sharing! I like the thought of a stand-alone recorder and the idea of hard drives as final storage. Still, hard drives crash (and with such a BIG mess) more than I've noticed recordable discs going bad (and with a much tinier loss).

* Would the cost of a 2nd drive to mirror each 1st drive, and the time to do that after each added capture, be worth it to not save/master each new capture to a disc?
* How about the splitter, which other models seem to "work" during only limited production runs? Would you (or anyone) know if your brand/model is still "HDMI-useful" in a present day purchase?
* Do you capture 5.1 audio?
* Is there faculty for fast & frame-accurate editing to neatly trim the ends off and/or attach title cards to captures?

You agree to use the Netflix service, including all features and functionalities associated therewith, in accordance with all applicable laws, rules and regulations, or other restrictions on use of the service or content therein. You agree not to archive, download (other than through caching necessary for personal use), reproduce, distribute, modify, display, perform, publish, license, create derivative works from, offer for sale, or use (except as explicitly authorized in these Terms of Use) content and information contained on or obtained from or through the Netflix service without express written permission from Netflix and its licensors.

BTW, before you put on the cuffs and haul yourself away ...
* Different businesses may have different contracts. Different circumstances may make contracts legal fully or only in part or null & void.
* Different countries may have different laws. Different circumstances may make for exceptions as specified or implied or unwritten (common law).
* Your mileage may vary ...

i would really appreciate your input and your help guys, this would mean the world to me, because if it is illegal capturing TV Shows & Movies, then i will not do it anymore, simple as that. (then i am hoping for a Blu-Ray Release soon :-) )

High Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI) allows the transmission of audio and video signal using one cable. If the audio output does not change automatically to the HDMI output, you need to manually switch the audio.

- Click Start, and then Control Panel. Select the Hardware and Sound category.
- Click Manage audio devices, listed under the heading Sound. In the window that opens, a number of devices may be listed under Playback.
- Among the listed devices, select the device described with HDMI or Digital Audio, and click Set Default. A green tick mark should show that this device is now the selected output device. Click OK to confirm and close the window.

I spent an hour with Netflix for the same problem. Youtube came in fine. New HP laptop with ughhhh win 10. Netflix sent me to the registry on a wild goose chase. Then they had me bring up default speakers - USB to HDMI connecting the Laptop to the TV. Sampling ws 48 kB, 16 bits. For those unfamiliar, D/A converter changes digital sound to analog sound. Higher sampling rates and more bits mean s better audio. Netflix wnted 96kB 24 bits - none of Netflix's business and overkill for a TV. Netflix didn't have a clue. After the session, Chrome said reinstall the widevinecdm. That screws up a lot. I reinstalled - everything's fine now.

Validate with: Run Netflix via edge Browser or native Windows App, Pick a 4k/HDR program, play, press SHFT-CTRL-ALD-D to see diagnostics. Observe resolution is only 1920x1080 instead of 4k. Note that to be able to play in Edge Browser you should in before have also enabled PlayReady via "edge://flags".

The last three lines are the problems. They show there is no HDCP 2.2 support, HDR10 support or 4k support. This is specifically for PlayReady rendering via edge of course, but the Netflix app does of course also use PlayReady.

Its mindboggling now negligent Intel is about this and how Intel does not seem to care about the frustration this creates with customers (ok: with me. Don't want to talk for others). NVidia has HDCP 2.2 status in its control panel.

Of course, Netflix is equally annoying. They also do not have any user information about whether or not HDCP 2.2 is supported. Netflix app/web-page just don't show 4K and HDR logos on the media when it does not detect HDCP 2.2 support.

My suspicion is that HDCP 2.2 with Intel iGPU (even all those 11th/12th gen iGPU with built-in HDMI 2.0!) will not work unless the device manufacturer goes through a lot of additional BIOS/ME work and maybe even other hassles. And seemingly none of the lower cost mini pc vendors has done this. I say this, because beelink for example is also missing the Windows 3D mode setting, and the ak1plus box does not even support HDMI 2.0 18 Gbps solutions, but only the 10Gbps resolution of 3180x2160@60Hz - but then of course without HDR. Aka: all the details of video output that seemingly with Intel iGPU are part of (video) BIOS.