Easter Traditions in Calabria
ital...@curzio.com
Yesterday, there were processions lasting several hours while men of the
local churches carried antique wooden statues of Christ and Mary from
their usual churches (there are 13 in Badolato Superiore dating back to
1180) up steep streets and hillsides to other larger churches at opposite
ends of the village in preparation for the Pasqua procession on Sunday.
As you know, Pasqua is based on a very old pagan ritual celebrating the
rite of Spring that was transformed to a Christian celebration around 300
AD when the pagan religions were banned, and like so many ancient things
here in Calabria continue to this day. People have lived in this area for
a very long time. Since before the Trojan Wars, and during the time that
the Pharos ruled Egypt there have been villages in Calabria.
Today, Pasqua is a religious festival that celebrates the resurrection of
Christ. We have three processions in the village to mark the occasion..
Friday, Saturday and Sunday, members of local churches walk in procession
between churches that date back to the medieval times and perform
ceremonies with some of the same liturgy and chants dating back hundreds
of years. Yes, you can still see men dressed in costumes of the middle
ages and hear them singing authentic Gregorian Chant. Today, it is
special event even for Italy- so TV News Services like Rai Uno will be
here to broadcast the event across Italian news or use the footage for
some documentary.. Historians will follow the men with microphones to
capture the chant before it too is lost to the modern world.. I’d guess
perhaps in another 300 years or so at this rate.. Old customs die hard
here..
Special masses are being held here to mark the events of the holy week.
Men and women together will walk to the local churches. The women will
enter and fill the churches, while most of the men will take up positions
outside of the church, to congregate amongst themselves, in quiet talk,
some smoking cigarettes.. Men here are a close fraternity..
On Easter Sunday, the village will be overflowing with people from near
and far who gather to watch the Pasqua processione. It will last a good
three hours and will reveal to the bystanders the crucifixion, death and
resurrection of Christ as it passes by, like scenes in a movie. At the
end, and for the finale, the two statues; that of Christ (who previously
was in repose) and Mary, (who previously was in Black) will be reunited in
a ceremony that can only be described as exciting and dangerous! Young
men, some balancing tall flags on their belts and others carrying the
antique wooden statues on huge wooden bases with long sturdy poles resting
on their shoulders weighing hundreds of pounds will advance towards the
center of the community walking behind a three-man drum line from opposite
ends of the village in advance of the two statues..
The entire village will crowd to the place where the two statues will
meet.. As the two opposing groups approach, the pace of the drums will
increase until they are in a full all-out run, with flags and the litters
held high above so the crowd can see.. In the last frenetic seconds the
flags will pass by, waving in a flurry of excitement, and the statues will
dip low for an instant… When they separate, the statues will rise up and
Christ will once again be standing at the side of Mary, both now dressed
in white robes and flowers… Music will play, the crowd will cheer and
celebrate the beginning of a new religious season by greeting friends and
family in the streets of the village, until the adrenaline and excitement
of the moment pass and they disperse to their homes for the Pasqua feast..
To feed family and guests, the women of village, will prepare flat pita
bread, egg soufflés (frittata) and meals of ham, goat and lamb in stone
hearths using firewood they have gathered from the pruning of the olive
groves and carried in bundles balanced atop their heads to ancient houses
that time has passed by. They will serve antipasto of home cured sliced
meats, cheeses and wine that the men of the village make along with
homemade pasta, rolled out on the kitchen table. For many families, it
isn’t necessary even to go to a market as everything will be provided by
family members from their own gardens, pens and fields!
On Monday (Pasquetta), the local families will picnic in the parks,
piazzas and the sea side.. Yes, it is getting nice and warm here in
Italy.. Pasquetta marks the beginning of the beach season, but only for
sunning, walking and meeting friends.. Swimming begins at the end of April
for the German tourists, and mid-May for most others... but that is
another story..
All this tradition exists today because of the homogeneity of culture
here. There is no need to ask if you celebrate Pasqua, Christmas, or any
other Catholic feast day. Of course you do!, if not religiously, for sure
in a civil fashion, so people exchange “Buona Pasqua” with friends and
strangers alike without reservation and the worries of offense or attempts
to maintain political correctness…
As I am to you…
I wish you well, and hope that you too will enjoy the happiness of this
occasion of re-birth with your friends and families…
Buona Pasqua! e Pasquetta!
Ciao,
Martino
====> story by Martino Sturino in Calabria, Italy
mailto:mjjst...@ameritech.net
Martino is a Roma Lodge (Racine) member,
and one of my very first Italian classes.
He owns a home in Italy - I'm sure he will be glad to meet you,
if you are planning to visit Calabria.