Lg Velvet Usb Driver

[Lenora Rademacher]

TheTour Velvet 360 is designed for adjustable drivers, fairway woods, and hybrid clubs, and is now available in a new, exclusive white finish highlighting the patented Tour-preferred plus signs. It features the popular look and feel of the Tour Velvet non-slip surface pattern in a 360-degree design. This grip features double-dash rings on both ends that allow for a consistent appearance regardless of shaft orientation or adjustments.

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Before I get started, a bit of background. I'm in the process of building a new engine for my old Skier, the torque output of this new engine will be far higher then the original Ford 351 that was in the boat. I'm sure some of you are thinking why doesn't he just buy a 72C and slap it in there? I have a few reasons why I don't want to do that. Size and weight, the 72c is approximately 1" longer and 10 lbs heavier then a 71c the weight isn't a huge deal but its something, the extra length just makes the packaging a bit of a tight fit between the coupler and the packing nut. Secondly the cost of a new 72c tranny either re-built or new is pretty expensive, and I wouldn't really know what I'm getting if it was used. There are some other small differences between the 71c and 72c but the main one is that the 72c has a forward clutch pack with more plates in it.

There isn't a whole lot of good information online about these trannies as far as modifying them. There are a few companies down in Florida such as BAM marine that sell really stout Velvet Drives that the Off Shore boats use they sell modified Velvet Drives but they don't really sell the parts to do it yourself, only the final product. The typical modification that they do (my simplified interpretation) is increasing the number of clutch plates in the forward clutch and replacing the paper or bronze friction plates with graphite which increases the torque capacity. There's obviously way more to a tranny that can handle 1500 ft lbs, but you get my drift. I found a place called Stern Drive Connection located in Ontario, Canada, which is good for me, that sells some parts.

So, Velvet Drives can have either paper or bronze friction plates from the factory, I don't know for sure, but I assume as the torque ratings don't change both the bronze and paper plates provide the same amount of capacity from the factory. One advantage to the bronze plates vs paper or graphite for that matter, in single engine boats, is that if the tranny starts slipping and it has bronze plates, the heat will cause the plates to warp and while the forward clutch will effectively be locked, at least you will have forward drive and wont get stranded. The graphite plates have the highest co-efficient of friction of any of the plates, but like the paper plates, if they slip and get burnt or worn out you will loose forward drive. Given all this I wanted to continue using bronze plates if I could.

Awesome thread. I've been kicking around the idea of building a nasty small block out of a 350 block I have on the engine stand in the corner of the garage and my 71C was one concern I had. I have a second one in the shed so this might be a future project if I go down that road. Rebuilding a beefing it up yourself means you do it a lot cheaper than a new one and you learn a lot about your own boat which is never a bad thing. I'll certainly be taking notes!

There isn't a whole lot of good information online about these trannies as far as modifying them. There are a few companies down in Florida such as BAM marine that sell really stout Velvet Drives that the Off Shore boats use that sell modified Velvet Drives but they don't really sell the parts to do it yourself, only the final product. The typical modification that they do (my simplified interpretation) is increasing the number of clutch plates in the forward clutch and replacing the paper or bronze friction plates with graphite which increases the torque capacity. I found a place called Stern Drive Connection located in Ontario, Canada, which is good for me, that sells some parts.

@2014Skier: Great thread, I concur on the lack of info for the DIY'er for these units. All the info I have found is amazingly old stuff, but at least decent info. One project I am considering is going to an aluminum case since they exist (although I have not found one yet).

So it looks like the real question is, what are they putting in that extra 1" that you can't get in your 71C case? If it is just the thicker clutch pack, maybe you can make an adapter ring to add the thickness. If the 72C has bigger gears, that could be an issue.

They are super simple, only one planetary gear set and two clutches, one control valve and a pump. I used to be an auto tech for about ten years and over that time rebuilt a ton of automatic trannies, this thing is really simple compared to those.

Thanks Woodski, it's the main reason why I wanted to create this thread, these things are really simple and nothing to be scared about. I didn't know they had aluminum cases, that would be a huge weight savings, the case is freaking heavy, I'd guess around 45lbs or so.

I'm not sure exactly what they are putting in that extra 1", the clutch pack only has one more friction disk so its not really that much longer, I know some of the bearing part numbers are different etc so I'm guessing its just some extra beef where it counts. I can't really see modifying too much of the working parts in the case, its all packaged very tight and very precise stuff.

So before I decided to do this thread I had already taken the tranny to bits and cleaned it all up, so to kinda back up to the start I just mocked it up so I could take pics of the disassembly process, don't pay a ton of attention to all the bolts and snap rings missing in the pics, I'll do my best to explain it along the way. The only slightly unusual tool I needed along the way was an 1-1/2" socket, my sets only whet up to 36mm and 1-1/4", everything else is just basic tools. I should also say I couldn't be bothered to look up exactly what Velvet Drive calls each part, so I'm just kinda making my own educated names up as I go.

I found it easy to just stand the tranny up on the drive flange, it seemed pretty stable this way. Drain all the fluid first by removing the return line from the cooler that feeds into the "pan" of the trans.

The transmission is capable of accepting input in either direction, it all depends on how the pump is installed, so make sure you mark the pump so that it goes back in the right way, I just used a chisel and make two marks.

Once you pop the reverse clutch cylinder / front plate off flip it upside down and using air pressure applied to the cylinder pop the piston out, you shouldn't need a ton of pressure, just apply it gently and put your free hand on top to provide some resistance.

You can now see the reverse clutch frictions and steels, there are several springs which keep the clutch disengaged and three pins that stop the steels from spinning. You can see in the pic some of the springs, there are 12 of them and one of the three locator pins that sit in grooves machined in the case.

So once that forward clutch assembly is out you can see the sun gears attached to the carrier and a bushing sitting there. Thats all we can do from the front of the tranny, gotta flip it over now and start from the other end.

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