Another thing to be aware of is that there are instances where
some Chinese manufacturers have been producing a rated wire of say
10 AWG. In reality what they are producing is something close to a
12 AGW wire that has a thicker insulation on it to give it the
appearance of a 10 AWG wire. The jacket on the wire will usually
be marked with the more favorable size.
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I’m wiring my Land Yacht, so I figure it’s good to follow boat-builders recommendations. You should take into account the wire length and allowable %voltage drop to pick your wire sizes. Also take into account temperature ratings which’ll depend on if the wire is bundled with other wires and if it’s enclosed in conduit.
One such good chart is from Blue Sea Systems: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
This is based on the ABYC (American boat and yacht council) which has been studying this for a long time.
For me, I need 50-amp capability, less than 3% voltage drop, and it’s a compact 48-volt system where all my runs are less than 10 feet total. So, 6 AWG has plenty of safety margin, not to mention it’s more economical and easier to bend than other guys running 12v systems and double-aught welding wire.
There’s a lot of good techniques to be learned those who build marine electrical systems. For one example, tinned copper wire and tinned connectors will last longer than bare copper. As Rod mentioned, connectors are important, and round screw-on connectors are more secure than spade or push-on connectors. There is tons of great basic information from Jeff Cote on YouTube at Pacific Yacht Systems, https://www.youtube.com/c/PacificYachtSystems/videos
73 Barry K7BWH