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scotiapl...@gmail.com
Dec 5, 2007, 10:11:12 AM12/5/07
to IPY: SCOTIA
Hello Everyone!
New journal entries for the past week, also new photos have been
uploaded at this location:
http://www.geol.sc.edu/barbeau/ipy/photos/photos.asp
Thanks!
Robb
--------------------------------------------
First day on Land, Willy Guenthner, University of Arizona
The Facts: 2 samples of the Miers Bluff Formation (fine grained
slightly metamorphosed massive sandstones interbedded with well
foliated mudstones) collected for detrital zircon analysis, no
thermochron (localized volcanics + dikes = bad thermochron )
Location: Hurd Peninsula on Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands
-- a series of islands that are thought to have rifted off the
Antarctic Peninsula due to back-arc spreading
Flora: Some lichens, a few sparse grasses
Fauna: The usual suspects... seals and penguins
The Story: After several days of movie watching/book reading/booting/
boredom the team finally got its first shot at real rock...until the
weather didn't behave. All of us, including the paleontologists with
whom we're sharing the lovely Laurence M. Gould, were in hurry-up-and-
wait mode. Wearing the latest in Antarctic fashion, the submersion
suit, we received word that the beach was too rough, the swell too
great, and the fog uncooperative. Off with the cold weather gear to
wait for a better shot at the island. It came after lunch with a
sudden clearing in the clouds (most likely thanks to the Daves'
kissing of a foot attached to a statue of Magellan in Punta Arenas...
wikipedia it). On went the gear and after descending a step ladder
into one of the zodiacs, we were off. The approach was truly amazing,
cobble strewn beaches, huge spires of rock, snow covered peaks in the
background, and, most importantly, great exposure. After a quick
recon of the area two suitable sites were found and we began hacking
away at the sandstone, enough to fill two three-gallon buckets. Back
on the LMG following a quick zodiac ride, samples were cleaned and
sequestered away. Efficient and fastidious, Team Barbeau is off to a
great start and is primed take on the next Austral outcrop.
--------------------------------------------
Current position: 62 deg 42.282 minutes S, 61 deg 1.706 minutes W
Bransfield Strait, south of Livingston Island, west of Hurd Peninsula.
November 27, 2007
air temperature: -2 C
sea surface temperature: a steady -0.7 C
wind speed: a pleasant 16 knots, easterly
vessel speed: a gentle 4 knots
water depth: a measly 49 m
atmospheric pressure: rising, for the first time in a week!
Happy Fatigue, Dave Barbeau, University of South Carolina
Today was another successful day for Team Barbeau thanks to the
unfailingly generous and hard-working LMG crew. We started the morning
west of Snow Island, hoping to make a landing either there or on Ray's
Promontory on the northwest corner of Livingston Island primarily to
achieve some of the scientific goals of the MacPhee party. But alas, a
brutal exposure to the Drake Passage and a persistent low-pressure
system kept science at bay for the morning. In fact, the swells were
so large (10+ feet) and wind so strong (50+ knots) that the only
reasonably calm place in the vicinity was back in the bay west of Hurd
Peninsula where we sampled yesterday. So there we went again, both for
some respite (it takes a lot of energy to subsist in large seas and
everyone who isn't ralphing or curled up in their berths gets a bit
ornery because of the extra energy required to stay upright, etc.),
and because it seemed like the only place science would be possible
today. We headed north of our previous sampling localities and headed
into La Palma Cove where we acquired another sample of the Miers Bluff
Formation -- the early Mesozoic or older metasedimentary basement to
the Antarctic Peninsula magmatic arc. Halfway through collecting our
first sample of the day, we were joined ashore by the entire MacPhee
party who took advantage of the situation in order to gain a much-
deserved break on land. With a fair number of seals and penguins, and
some spectacular scenery albeit amidst bouts of white-out snow,
spirits were quite high, which I was glad for given the MacPhee
party's generous contributions of ship time while their targets are
hemmed in. With an hour before Chef Bobby's supper bell and with one
sample in the bag, we headed even farther north in the Zodiacs,
MacPhee Party in tow. At this location we shared the beach with
several dozen German tourists out enjoying time off their vessel,
Bremen. Ashore were numerous elephant seals and several species of
penguinos enjoying the relatively balmy beaches of Livingston Island.
We hussled up a snowy and steep couloir to sample a large turbidite-
fan lobe deposit of the Miers Bluff Formation, which we achieved in
time to back to the LMG before supper was packed up. On the return
voyage, the Capt called us on the radio informing us of a humpback
whale nestled up next to the Gould. Although we didn't see her, we
caught a few glimpses of her spout as she surfaced for air. Beautiful.
Tomorrow we set about the daunting task of setting up the MacPhee
party's two-week camp on the South Beaches of Livingston. It should be
a long day of humping gear ashore and to their camp, but we'll be
plenty happy to do so if the weather cooperates.
Today's journal entry is dedicated to Robb Hawfield, back home in
South Carolina -- as webmaster for our webpage, he is our link to the
internet given the small files we are able to send via satellite
uplink from the Gould. Thanks for all that you do, Ranger Robb!
--------------------------------------------
11/28/2007
Kendra Murray, Carleton College
Location: S 62 46.187' W 61 03.796'
Speed: 3 knots
Wind Speed: 9 knots
After a calm night in the shelter of Hurd Peninsula along the southern
shore of Livingston Island, the Gould arrived at neighboring Byers
Peninsula early this morning. The water was calm and the visibility
excellent - ideal conditions for setting up camp onshore for the
MacPhee
paleontology group. Deception Island (a dormant volcano), Snow
Island,
and the high glacier-covered peaks of Livingston Island were bright on
the
horizon. After one zodiac scouted out a possible site for the camp,
the
rest of us - making 17 in all - went onshore to help out.
This was a full day of ferrying gear and supplies from the Gould via
zodiacs, pulling them on sledges up onto a snow field, and setting up
tents. Chris, our Raytheon POC, directed our efforts, demonstrating
how
to stake the Scott tents with dead man anchors (steel rods buried deep
into the snow and ice pack) and determining the general layout of the
camp. Using shovels and pick axes, we slowly erected a small base
where
MacPhee and his team will be living and working for the next two
weeks.
As the tide went out during the morning, shallow shoals challenged our
marine techs Toby and Megan to get creative when landing the zodiacs
on
the beaches nearest to the camp. Soon, we had to haul the gear from
the
beach, onto the snow pack, then across a wide snowfield dotted with
giant
snoozing Elephant Seals, and finally up a steep snow bank to the
campsite.
The best part of this process was, of course, sledding back down the
hill
to the beach. Without disturbing the seals.
During lunch, my Carleton Gould Library Frisbee, complete with
appropriate
Emperor Penguin decor, had its inaugural Antarctic toss as Team
Barbeau
took a five minute break before getting back to work. The fact that
brisk
winds made it nearly impossible to complete a pass couldn't dampen our
spirits - the sun was shining, and we were part of a group working
hard in
the midst of the desolate and stunningly beautiful polar landscape.
By the end of the afternoon our task was nearly complete. All the
gear
was in the camp, and we had six tents set up - four Scott tents for
sleeping, one as the out house, and a large communal tent. We said
our
goodbyes, and wished the MacPhee group and Chris luck in their search
for
Cretaceous mammal teeth in the snow-covered sedimentary rocks of the
peninsula. We'll be back to pick them up on our return trip to Punta
Arenas in mid-December.
--------------------------------------------
David Gombosi
November 29, 2007
-065 20.079', -064 20.632'
Air Temp: -.08 degrees C
Wind Speed/Direction: East, 3 knots
Today I can say has by far been my best day in Antarctica. This
morning I woke up to the snow covered cliffs of the Neumayer Channel
right outside my window. I immediately got on deck to begin taking
photographs. The air was calm, and there was only a slight could
cover. Unfortunately I had slept through the majority of the journey
through the channel, but Barbeau had been up since 5AM enjoying the
view.
The job of the day was to drop off supplies at Palmer Station. To do
this we continued to skirt around Anvers Island, and got wonderful
views in the process. We parked outside of Palmer sometime around
10AM, as zodiacs ferried over fresh produce. We'll make another port
call here in a few days on our way back north and should have some
time to properly meet the station staff.
After leaving Palmer we headed to the Ukrainian station Vernadsky.
One of our passengers will be installing a VLF receiver there while we
travel south, and we'll pick him back up on our way north. In order
to get to Vernadsky we have to travel through the Lemaire Channel, one
of the most picturesque vistas in this section of the Antarctic
Peninsula. Wedged between a series of islands and the Antarctic
Peninsula, the channel features views of mountains, at least 5,000ft
high rising straight out of the ocean as their glaciers calve back
into it. Due to the narrowness of the channel this waterway can
sometimes be blocked, but nature was working in our favor today. As
the day continued the weather just got better and better, sun started
to poke out from the clouds and the air and water were dead calm.
As we were passing through the Lemaire Channel we got word that we
would be able to stop at Petermann Island, where a US based research
team is working on studying how far south Gentoo penguins have
migrated due to increasing ocean temperatures. Petermann Island is of
particular interest to us geologists, as it gives us the first samples
of plutonic rock which we have been able to get so far on the
expedition. The penguin group would also get the bonus of a shower
and hot meal on the ship while we did our field work.
Both the location and weather were perfect for fieldwork. There were
great exposures of granite/tonalite right near the beach (much of
which penguins were nesting on). The exposures were amazing, as there
was no growth and all the surfaces were freshly cleaned these
reminded me somewhat of Maine coastline, just with penguins and no
other life or soil on the rock. There were a number of interesting
structural and petrographic features in the outcrop including several
dike sets.
After arriving back late for dinner, we headed to Vernadsky. Barbeau
went with the Vernadsky party to drop of the scientist installing the
VLF receiver and to scout out what the rocks looked like next to the
station. The results of the scouting mission didn't look all that
promising, but we may have a look on the other side of the island on
our return journey. In any case we are still running ahead of
schedule so one stop without the best lithology won't stop us in our
tracks.
Now we are sailing south towards Lahille Island where we will sample
first thing tomorrow morning. The seas are like glass, and only a few
wisps of cloud exist in the sky as little ice chunks float in the
water. Out to the horizon are the islands that are tomorrow's
target. Everyone has just now come down from on deck to watch the
sunset at ~11:15PM and most are heading off to bed. If the outcrops
and weather continue cooperate like they have today this will be an
amazingly productive trip.
--------------------------------------------
65 deg 21' S, 64 deg 20' W
Lahille, Willy Guenthner, University of Arizona
The Facts: Too many samples to count (okay, there were only 8),
samples consisted of metamorphosed sandstones and mudstones of our
good old friend the Miers Bluff Formation and a bucket o' rocks from a
granodiorite pluton, all of which was located on Lahille Island
Weather: Blue skies and sunny... truly a perfect Antarctic day
Flora and Fauna: A few birds, and a leopard seal or two hanging out
on the brash ice
New Vocabulary Word: Bergy bits, the technical name for broken off
chunks of an iceberg
The Story: With a morning start, the team was off to explore the
rocks of Lahille Island. Transit via Zodiac to and from the Gould was
adventuresome as several streams of brash ice needed to be traversed
to reach our destination. Gone are the nice easy beach landings of
the South Shetlands. Today involved jumping out of our boat and
scrambling onto hard rock surfaces. Storming the sea cliffs with
hammers, compasses and field books in hand, the team made precision
strikes at the ice and snow strewn rock in order to quickly extract
from them information of a geologic nature (they seemed to oblige).
While we were able to take our time collecting the sandstones and
mudstones, our granodiorite sample was collected right from the shore
with the Zodiac's motor running in the event that any of the large
(think football field) icebergs nearby decided to "act up." Our
attempts at sampling more rock on the mainland of the Antarctic
Peninsula (a body of land which no one in the group has actually set
foot on yet) were thwarted by brash ice and bergy bit covered bays.
Still, a fine day of sampling capped off by an evening viewing of "The
Thing" (Premise: research scientists in Antarctica get attacked by a
shape shifting alien that has been buried under the ice for
thousands of years).
--------------------------------------------
1 December 2007
To: Tom Wagner, National Science Foundation's Office of Polar Programs
Re: December 1, 2007 Cruise Report: LMG 07-17
Dear Tom,
This letter constitutes my first report to you from the Southern Ocean
and Antarctic Peninsula concerning the research of cruise LMG 07-17
aboard the R/V Laurence M. Gould during 22 November - 23 December
2007. I am serving as the Chief Scientist of the cruise while Dr. Ross
MacPhee is ashore conducting his research on Byers Peninsula of
Livingston Island in the South Shetland Islands.
During our trip to Punta Arenas for cruise preparations, David Gombosi
and I attended GEOSUR 2007 -- a symposium on South American and
Antarctic geologic research in Santiago, Chile. This meeting enabled
us to meet and coordinate research efforts with several of our South
American, European and American colleagues who have complementary and/
or common scientific goals. Dr. Stefan Kraus of the Instituto
Antarctica Chileno (INACH) was kind enough to set up a meeting for us
with the Chilean oil company ENAP, which is interested in providing us
with sedimentary samples from their boreholes in the Chilean sector of
the Magallanes foreland basin. These samples will prove very useful
for the Fuegian aspect of our International Polar Year project.
Following a relatively enjoyable and uneventful crossing of Drake
Passage from 22-25 November, the LMG pursued dual-purpose research
targets on Livingston Island (the MacPhee and Barbeau teams have
common interest in sedimentary rocks of the South Shetland Islands). A
strong easterly gale and a season of heavy snow hampered our efforts
at Williams Point, Snow Island, and Ray's Promontory of Byers
Peninsula. Because these conditions prevented collection of
reconnaissance data and samples from these regions, Dr. MacPhee
generously donated this unexpected ship time to our project, allowing
us to sample the Miers Bluff Formation (a likely equivalent to the
metamorphic complexes of the Trinity Peninsula Group and southern
Andes) of the western Hurd Peninsula. Due to its southwest-trending
orientation the Hurd Peninsula provided an effective barrier to the
swell and winds. Although the MacPhee group had no targets on Hurd
Peninsula, they were able to get ashore to stretch their legs, enjoy
the local scenery and fauna, and boost morale. Over two days, we
collected four provenance sample suites, which I am sure will prove to
be valuable.
One day ahead of schedule, the scientists and technicians of LMG 07-17
installed the two-week Byers Peninsula field camp for the MacPhee
party on 28 November and set sail southward towards passenger-drops at
Palmer and Vernadsky bases. With exceptionally clear weather, the LMG
navigated the Neumayer and Lemaire Channels, providing breathtaking
views of the Antarctic Peninsula Volcanic Group (not a sample target
of our project) and a few plutons of the Antarctic Peninsula magmatic
arc. Following a rapid drop-off of fresh food and Raytheon engineer
Dan Mazzeo at Palmer Station, we sampled our first granitic target on
Petermann Island while providing Melissa Rider and the penguin colony
study group camped there with a much deserved visit aboard the LMG for
a hot meal and some social time. We completed the long day by dropping
Stanford University's Bob Marshall at Vernadsky station where he is
making repairs, installations and adjustments to the very low
frequency antenna facility hosted there.
From Vernadsky station we headed south where we successfully sampled
the southernmost western Grahamland exposures of the Trinity Peninsula
Group on Lahille Island for provenance and thermochronometric
analysis. There we also acquired a thermochronometry sample from a
granodioritic pluton amidst a prodigious landscape and exceptionally
cooperative weather.
As we headed further down the Graham Coast towards our southernmost
LMG 07-17 target at Cape Bellue, thick pack-ice inhibited our passage
through Grandidier Channel, forcing us out to sea to the west of
Renaud Island. We were able to return to the Graham Coast through the
gap between Renaud and Lavoisier Islands to open water where the LMG
Marine Technicians shuttled us to shore at Cape Bellue for our first
steps upon the Antarctic Peninsula mainland, where we unfurled a
Carleton College flag for a photo amidst a sublime and gentle
snowstorm. (Three-fourths of my field team are alums of Carleton,
where Larry Gould founded the Geology Department upon his return from
serving as chief scientist for Admiral Byrd's first Antarctic
expedition.) We finished sampling the Cape Bellue granitoid a full day
ahead of schedule and took advantage of relatively cooperative weather
to head further south than originally planned, with our sights set on
the Pauling Islands and Mügge Island tucked between Laird Island and
northern Adelaide Island where thermochronometry pluton targets
reside.
We were greeted with driving snow and 25 knot winds (near the 'no-go'
Zodiac travel ceiling of 30 knots) on the small, low unprotected
Pauling Islands but were able to collect a thermochronometry sample
from an intermediate composition pluton. Returning to the LMG we
proceeded further south with the excitement of passing below the
Antarctic Circle -- an unanticipated windfall for this already
exceedingly fruitful cruise. Although we were indeed able to pass
south of the Circle, a strong northeasterly gale, large bergs and
thick pack-ice stopped us in our tracks towards Mügge Island. We
paralleled the edge of pack-ice and shifted our goals for a small
granitoid exposure due east of Laird Island but the lead we would need
to navigate to achieve the sample became too narrow for our comfort.
After some consultation with Captain Scott Flanagan and Marine
Projects Coordinator Herb Baker, we have decided to return northbound
to pick up Bob Marshall at Vernadsky and for our port call at Palmer
before we head north towards the Trinity and Tabarin Peninsulas, and
perhaps Seymour Island before we return to Livingston to pick up the
MacPhee team near the end of December. We will use the extra time to
sample more thoroughly in the Anvers Island and Paradise Bay areas.
The helpful and experienced folks at USAP with whom I spoke prior to
the cruise wisely encouraged us to keep our expectations low as our
sampling and travel plans were more ambitious than would likely be
achievable. Fully new to Antarctic travel and research, I told the
Captain, Herb, Chief Mate Joe Abshire, and Special Projects
Coordinators Chris Denker & John Evans upon boarding the LMG in Punta
Arenas that if we collected one-half of the targets I would be
satisfied with the cruise. One week in, we have collected 22 sample
suites from seven different locations. At the current rate, we will
collect >150% of the target samples. Even if our luck runs out tonight
and the next three weeks are a wash (knocking on wood now), we will
have achieved my goal of sampling 50% of the original targets.
Needless to say, this has been a very successful cruise and I am very
grateful for the professional and dedicated efforts of the Edison
Choest Offshore, Raytheon Polar Services, and United States Antarctic
Program crews, without whom this would not be nearly as productive,
let alone enjoyable. I am also deeply indebted to Dr. MacPhee and his
team, whose generosity, camaraderie and friendship have greatly aided
our quest.
We are posting daily updates that combine our scientific progress with
our geographic position and life-at-sea descriptions at
www.geol.sc.edu/barbeau/ipy/index.asp if you are interested.
Until next week, best regards.
Dave Barbeau
University of South Carolina
PI, NSF-ANT 0732995, an International Polar Year Project
Co-Chief Scientist Cruise LMG 07-17, Project G-432-E
--------------------------------------------
Another Premium Day
12/2/2007
Kendra Murray, Carleton College
Location: 64 16.997' S ; 064 06.863' W
Vessel speed: 5.4 knots
Air temperature 3.3 degrees C
Samples collected: 2
At about 04:00 this morning the Gould started rolling (vigorously
enough to wake me up) as we entered the open ocean outside the shelter
of the Peninsula islands, encountering large swells generated by a low
pressure system in the Drake Passage. After a morning heading north
through rough seas, we returned to the calmer waters near the
Argentine Islands to pick up our colleague Bob Marshall. For the past
three days Bob has been setting up a very low frequency (VLF) antenna
for his Stanford University research group, with the help and
hospitality of the Ukrainians at Vernadsky station. For Team Barbeau,
this stop at the southern end of the Lemaire Channel was an
opportunity to sample a granitoid and related gabbro on Cape Tuxen,
adding to our suite of igneous rocks destined for thermochron
analysis.
The peaks and glaciers of Lemaire Channel were hidden in fog and
blowing snow this afternoon, showing how lucky we were on our sunny
and spectacular journey south just a few days ago.
We took a post-dinner zodiac ride out to Py Point on Weincke Island,
where an old Chilean base is perched on a tonalite and populated by
Gentoo Penguins. Careful not to disturb the nesting birds (but
thoroughly enjoying their antics) we explored the tonalite exposures
and took another thermochron sample.
Tonight the Gould heads to Anvers Island for a scheduled port call at
Palmer Station all day tomorrow. Though we hope to sample the
granitoid that surrounds the station, the stop at Palmer is a welcome
opportunity for us to play tourist, check email, and enjoy a well-
deserved beer.
--------------------------------------------
Poem by Dave Barbeau for Talent Show
When I was a child, I n'er thought I would travel
Down the Antarctic Peninsula, where it's icy and cold
There's a boatload of rocks down there to be sampled
So many kilos that my boots's getting worn.
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
Well, sometimes we'd sail right down Lemaire Channel
To the abandoned old hut, down west of Lahille
Where the air smelled with guano and we'd shoot with our Nikons
But white sample buckets was all we would fill
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
Then Team Barbeau came, with rock hammers pounding
And they busted the granite and mined all the land
Well they dug for their zircons, till the land was forsaken
Then they wrote it all down in field books by hand
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
When I die let my ashes, float down Neumeyer Channel
Let my soul roll on up to Grahamland
I'll be halfway to Heaven with Zodiacs waitin'
Just nautical miles from wherever I am.
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
---------------------------------------------
December 3, 2007
Samples Collected: 1
Dave Gombosi, University of South Carolina
Today was our second stop at Palmer Station. We were due to arrive
~8:00AM, however the meeting before we were allowed to disembark the
boat was slightly later. Kendra, Willy and I stayed on the boat for a
while after that checking our email, sending photos home, etc... with
our newly gained internet connection.
At 11:00 the palmer staff opened up the store for an hour. The
station runs a small one-room store, which sells T-shirts, calendars
and other souvenir items to the tour ships which stop by fairly
regularly. Most of the crew loaded up on holiday shopping for
souvenirs for those back home. In addition to the tourist items since
we were an NSF affiliated group the back room which had all the beer
and liquor was opened up for us. While the Gould is a dry ship, none
of the US stations are.
We grabbed a quick lunch back on the Gould and then were free for the
rest of the afternoon while the crew of the Gould unloaded the ship's
cargo. A few people went walking, around the station. There is a
glacier in back of the station with a nice walk to the summit, but
being a warm day and a bit slushy I don't believe anyone took
advantage of it. The station has two primary buildings and a number
of smaller ancillary facilities scattered around the perimeter. The
living situation is really quite comfortable, and it didn't appear the
station was anywhere near their capacity. In the afternoon Kendra,
Willy, and I went out and collected one sample of tonalite from the
back of the station for thermochronology.
We had a great dinner at the station ~5:30, consisting of pizza and
calzones followed an hour later by a variety show. The variety show
was a wonderful assortment of poems, musical numbers, stupid human
tricks, etc... including one musical number composed by Barbeau based
around the events of our cruise.
After the talent show there was drinking and general socializing as
people slowly drifted home until ~1:00AM. Shortly after our chief
mate Joe showed up, Barbeau, Kendra, and I decided to go for a
traditional dunk into the Antarctic Ocean. We got Willy from the ship
and he agreed to come as well. By 1:30AM under the Antarctic twilight
we all ran down to the ocean dunked ourselves under the sub-freezing
water, and ran immediately back to the waiting hot tub on the side of
the station. We finally decided to head into bed by 2:30AM, just as
the sun was starting to come up over the horizon.
New journal entries for the past week, also new photos have been
uploaded at this location:
http://www.geol.sc.edu/barbeau/ipy/photos/photos.asp
Thanks!
Robb
--------------------------------------------
First day on Land, Willy Guenthner, University of Arizona
The Facts: 2 samples of the Miers Bluff Formation (fine grained
slightly metamorphosed massive sandstones interbedded with well
foliated mudstones) collected for detrital zircon analysis, no
thermochron (localized volcanics + dikes = bad thermochron )
Location: Hurd Peninsula on Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands
-- a series of islands that are thought to have rifted off the
Antarctic Peninsula due to back-arc spreading
Flora: Some lichens, a few sparse grasses
Fauna: The usual suspects... seals and penguins
The Story: After several days of movie watching/book reading/booting/
boredom the team finally got its first shot at real rock...until the
weather didn't behave. All of us, including the paleontologists with
whom we're sharing the lovely Laurence M. Gould, were in hurry-up-and-
wait mode. Wearing the latest in Antarctic fashion, the submersion
suit, we received word that the beach was too rough, the swell too
great, and the fog uncooperative. Off with the cold weather gear to
wait for a better shot at the island. It came after lunch with a
sudden clearing in the clouds (most likely thanks to the Daves'
kissing of a foot attached to a statue of Magellan in Punta Arenas...
wikipedia it). On went the gear and after descending a step ladder
into one of the zodiacs, we were off. The approach was truly amazing,
cobble strewn beaches, huge spires of rock, snow covered peaks in the
background, and, most importantly, great exposure. After a quick
recon of the area two suitable sites were found and we began hacking
away at the sandstone, enough to fill two three-gallon buckets. Back
on the LMG following a quick zodiac ride, samples were cleaned and
sequestered away. Efficient and fastidious, Team Barbeau is off to a
great start and is primed take on the next Austral outcrop.
--------------------------------------------
Current position: 62 deg 42.282 minutes S, 61 deg 1.706 minutes W
Bransfield Strait, south of Livingston Island, west of Hurd Peninsula.
November 27, 2007
air temperature: -2 C
sea surface temperature: a steady -0.7 C
wind speed: a pleasant 16 knots, easterly
vessel speed: a gentle 4 knots
water depth: a measly 49 m
atmospheric pressure: rising, for the first time in a week!
Happy Fatigue, Dave Barbeau, University of South Carolina
Today was another successful day for Team Barbeau thanks to the
unfailingly generous and hard-working LMG crew. We started the morning
west of Snow Island, hoping to make a landing either there or on Ray's
Promontory on the northwest corner of Livingston Island primarily to
achieve some of the scientific goals of the MacPhee party. But alas, a
brutal exposure to the Drake Passage and a persistent low-pressure
system kept science at bay for the morning. In fact, the swells were
so large (10+ feet) and wind so strong (50+ knots) that the only
reasonably calm place in the vicinity was back in the bay west of Hurd
Peninsula where we sampled yesterday. So there we went again, both for
some respite (it takes a lot of energy to subsist in large seas and
everyone who isn't ralphing or curled up in their berths gets a bit
ornery because of the extra energy required to stay upright, etc.),
and because it seemed like the only place science would be possible
today. We headed north of our previous sampling localities and headed
into La Palma Cove where we acquired another sample of the Miers Bluff
Formation -- the early Mesozoic or older metasedimentary basement to
the Antarctic Peninsula magmatic arc. Halfway through collecting our
first sample of the day, we were joined ashore by the entire MacPhee
party who took advantage of the situation in order to gain a much-
deserved break on land. With a fair number of seals and penguins, and
some spectacular scenery albeit amidst bouts of white-out snow,
spirits were quite high, which I was glad for given the MacPhee
party's generous contributions of ship time while their targets are
hemmed in. With an hour before Chef Bobby's supper bell and with one
sample in the bag, we headed even farther north in the Zodiacs,
MacPhee Party in tow. At this location we shared the beach with
several dozen German tourists out enjoying time off their vessel,
Bremen. Ashore were numerous elephant seals and several species of
penguinos enjoying the relatively balmy beaches of Livingston Island.
We hussled up a snowy and steep couloir to sample a large turbidite-
fan lobe deposit of the Miers Bluff Formation, which we achieved in
time to back to the LMG before supper was packed up. On the return
voyage, the Capt called us on the radio informing us of a humpback
whale nestled up next to the Gould. Although we didn't see her, we
caught a few glimpses of her spout as she surfaced for air. Beautiful.
Tomorrow we set about the daunting task of setting up the MacPhee
party's two-week camp on the South Beaches of Livingston. It should be
a long day of humping gear ashore and to their camp, but we'll be
plenty happy to do so if the weather cooperates.
Today's journal entry is dedicated to Robb Hawfield, back home in
South Carolina -- as webmaster for our webpage, he is our link to the
internet given the small files we are able to send via satellite
uplink from the Gould. Thanks for all that you do, Ranger Robb!
--------------------------------------------
11/28/2007
Kendra Murray, Carleton College
Location: S 62 46.187' W 61 03.796'
Speed: 3 knots
Wind Speed: 9 knots
After a calm night in the shelter of Hurd Peninsula along the southern
shore of Livingston Island, the Gould arrived at neighboring Byers
Peninsula early this morning. The water was calm and the visibility
excellent - ideal conditions for setting up camp onshore for the
MacPhee
paleontology group. Deception Island (a dormant volcano), Snow
Island,
and the high glacier-covered peaks of Livingston Island were bright on
the
horizon. After one zodiac scouted out a possible site for the camp,
the
rest of us - making 17 in all - went onshore to help out.
This was a full day of ferrying gear and supplies from the Gould via
zodiacs, pulling them on sledges up onto a snow field, and setting up
tents. Chris, our Raytheon POC, directed our efforts, demonstrating
how
to stake the Scott tents with dead man anchors (steel rods buried deep
into the snow and ice pack) and determining the general layout of the
camp. Using shovels and pick axes, we slowly erected a small base
where
MacPhee and his team will be living and working for the next two
weeks.
As the tide went out during the morning, shallow shoals challenged our
marine techs Toby and Megan to get creative when landing the zodiacs
on
the beaches nearest to the camp. Soon, we had to haul the gear from
the
beach, onto the snow pack, then across a wide snowfield dotted with
giant
snoozing Elephant Seals, and finally up a steep snow bank to the
campsite.
The best part of this process was, of course, sledding back down the
hill
to the beach. Without disturbing the seals.
During lunch, my Carleton Gould Library Frisbee, complete with
appropriate
Emperor Penguin decor, had its inaugural Antarctic toss as Team
Barbeau
took a five minute break before getting back to work. The fact that
brisk
winds made it nearly impossible to complete a pass couldn't dampen our
spirits - the sun was shining, and we were part of a group working
hard in
the midst of the desolate and stunningly beautiful polar landscape.
By the end of the afternoon our task was nearly complete. All the
gear
was in the camp, and we had six tents set up - four Scott tents for
sleeping, one as the out house, and a large communal tent. We said
our
goodbyes, and wished the MacPhee group and Chris luck in their search
for
Cretaceous mammal teeth in the snow-covered sedimentary rocks of the
peninsula. We'll be back to pick them up on our return trip to Punta
Arenas in mid-December.
--------------------------------------------
David Gombosi
November 29, 2007
-065 20.079', -064 20.632'
Air Temp: -.08 degrees C
Wind Speed/Direction: East, 3 knots
Today I can say has by far been my best day in Antarctica. This
morning I woke up to the snow covered cliffs of the Neumayer Channel
right outside my window. I immediately got on deck to begin taking
photographs. The air was calm, and there was only a slight could
cover. Unfortunately I had slept through the majority of the journey
through the channel, but Barbeau had been up since 5AM enjoying the
view.
The job of the day was to drop off supplies at Palmer Station. To do
this we continued to skirt around Anvers Island, and got wonderful
views in the process. We parked outside of Palmer sometime around
10AM, as zodiacs ferried over fresh produce. We'll make another port
call here in a few days on our way back north and should have some
time to properly meet the station staff.
After leaving Palmer we headed to the Ukrainian station Vernadsky.
One of our passengers will be installing a VLF receiver there while we
travel south, and we'll pick him back up on our way north. In order
to get to Vernadsky we have to travel through the Lemaire Channel, one
of the most picturesque vistas in this section of the Antarctic
Peninsula. Wedged between a series of islands and the Antarctic
Peninsula, the channel features views of mountains, at least 5,000ft
high rising straight out of the ocean as their glaciers calve back
into it. Due to the narrowness of the channel this waterway can
sometimes be blocked, but nature was working in our favor today. As
the day continued the weather just got better and better, sun started
to poke out from the clouds and the air and water were dead calm.
As we were passing through the Lemaire Channel we got word that we
would be able to stop at Petermann Island, where a US based research
team is working on studying how far south Gentoo penguins have
migrated due to increasing ocean temperatures. Petermann Island is of
particular interest to us geologists, as it gives us the first samples
of plutonic rock which we have been able to get so far on the
expedition. The penguin group would also get the bonus of a shower
and hot meal on the ship while we did our field work.
Both the location and weather were perfect for fieldwork. There were
great exposures of granite/tonalite right near the beach (much of
which penguins were nesting on). The exposures were amazing, as there
was no growth and all the surfaces were freshly cleaned these
reminded me somewhat of Maine coastline, just with penguins and no
other life or soil on the rock. There were a number of interesting
structural and petrographic features in the outcrop including several
dike sets.
After arriving back late for dinner, we headed to Vernadsky. Barbeau
went with the Vernadsky party to drop of the scientist installing the
VLF receiver and to scout out what the rocks looked like next to the
station. The results of the scouting mission didn't look all that
promising, but we may have a look on the other side of the island on
our return journey. In any case we are still running ahead of
schedule so one stop without the best lithology won't stop us in our
tracks.
Now we are sailing south towards Lahille Island where we will sample
first thing tomorrow morning. The seas are like glass, and only a few
wisps of cloud exist in the sky as little ice chunks float in the
water. Out to the horizon are the islands that are tomorrow's
target. Everyone has just now come down from on deck to watch the
sunset at ~11:15PM and most are heading off to bed. If the outcrops
and weather continue cooperate like they have today this will be an
amazingly productive trip.
--------------------------------------------
65 deg 21' S, 64 deg 20' W
Lahille, Willy Guenthner, University of Arizona
The Facts: Too many samples to count (okay, there were only 8),
samples consisted of metamorphosed sandstones and mudstones of our
good old friend the Miers Bluff Formation and a bucket o' rocks from a
granodiorite pluton, all of which was located on Lahille Island
Weather: Blue skies and sunny... truly a perfect Antarctic day
Flora and Fauna: A few birds, and a leopard seal or two hanging out
on the brash ice
New Vocabulary Word: Bergy bits, the technical name for broken off
chunks of an iceberg
The Story: With a morning start, the team was off to explore the
rocks of Lahille Island. Transit via Zodiac to and from the Gould was
adventuresome as several streams of brash ice needed to be traversed
to reach our destination. Gone are the nice easy beach landings of
the South Shetlands. Today involved jumping out of our boat and
scrambling onto hard rock surfaces. Storming the sea cliffs with
hammers, compasses and field books in hand, the team made precision
strikes at the ice and snow strewn rock in order to quickly extract
from them information of a geologic nature (they seemed to oblige).
While we were able to take our time collecting the sandstones and
mudstones, our granodiorite sample was collected right from the shore
with the Zodiac's motor running in the event that any of the large
(think football field) icebergs nearby decided to "act up." Our
attempts at sampling more rock on the mainland of the Antarctic
Peninsula (a body of land which no one in the group has actually set
foot on yet) were thwarted by brash ice and bergy bit covered bays.
Still, a fine day of sampling capped off by an evening viewing of "The
Thing" (Premise: research scientists in Antarctica get attacked by a
shape shifting alien that has been buried under the ice for
thousands of years).
--------------------------------------------
1 December 2007
To: Tom Wagner, National Science Foundation's Office of Polar Programs
Re: December 1, 2007 Cruise Report: LMG 07-17
Dear Tom,
This letter constitutes my first report to you from the Southern Ocean
and Antarctic Peninsula concerning the research of cruise LMG 07-17
aboard the R/V Laurence M. Gould during 22 November - 23 December
2007. I am serving as the Chief Scientist of the cruise while Dr. Ross
MacPhee is ashore conducting his research on Byers Peninsula of
Livingston Island in the South Shetland Islands.
During our trip to Punta Arenas for cruise preparations, David Gombosi
and I attended GEOSUR 2007 -- a symposium on South American and
Antarctic geologic research in Santiago, Chile. This meeting enabled
us to meet and coordinate research efforts with several of our South
American, European and American colleagues who have complementary and/
or common scientific goals. Dr. Stefan Kraus of the Instituto
Antarctica Chileno (INACH) was kind enough to set up a meeting for us
with the Chilean oil company ENAP, which is interested in providing us
with sedimentary samples from their boreholes in the Chilean sector of
the Magallanes foreland basin. These samples will prove very useful
for the Fuegian aspect of our International Polar Year project.
Following a relatively enjoyable and uneventful crossing of Drake
Passage from 22-25 November, the LMG pursued dual-purpose research
targets on Livingston Island (the MacPhee and Barbeau teams have
common interest in sedimentary rocks of the South Shetland Islands). A
strong easterly gale and a season of heavy snow hampered our efforts
at Williams Point, Snow Island, and Ray's Promontory of Byers
Peninsula. Because these conditions prevented collection of
reconnaissance data and samples from these regions, Dr. MacPhee
generously donated this unexpected ship time to our project, allowing
us to sample the Miers Bluff Formation (a likely equivalent to the
metamorphic complexes of the Trinity Peninsula Group and southern
Andes) of the western Hurd Peninsula. Due to its southwest-trending
orientation the Hurd Peninsula provided an effective barrier to the
swell and winds. Although the MacPhee group had no targets on Hurd
Peninsula, they were able to get ashore to stretch their legs, enjoy
the local scenery and fauna, and boost morale. Over two days, we
collected four provenance sample suites, which I am sure will prove to
be valuable.
One day ahead of schedule, the scientists and technicians of LMG 07-17
installed the two-week Byers Peninsula field camp for the MacPhee
party on 28 November and set sail southward towards passenger-drops at
Palmer and Vernadsky bases. With exceptionally clear weather, the LMG
navigated the Neumayer and Lemaire Channels, providing breathtaking
views of the Antarctic Peninsula Volcanic Group (not a sample target
of our project) and a few plutons of the Antarctic Peninsula magmatic
arc. Following a rapid drop-off of fresh food and Raytheon engineer
Dan Mazzeo at Palmer Station, we sampled our first granitic target on
Petermann Island while providing Melissa Rider and the penguin colony
study group camped there with a much deserved visit aboard the LMG for
a hot meal and some social time. We completed the long day by dropping
Stanford University's Bob Marshall at Vernadsky station where he is
making repairs, installations and adjustments to the very low
frequency antenna facility hosted there.
From Vernadsky station we headed south where we successfully sampled
the southernmost western Grahamland exposures of the Trinity Peninsula
Group on Lahille Island for provenance and thermochronometric
analysis. There we also acquired a thermochronometry sample from a
granodioritic pluton amidst a prodigious landscape and exceptionally
cooperative weather.
As we headed further down the Graham Coast towards our southernmost
LMG 07-17 target at Cape Bellue, thick pack-ice inhibited our passage
through Grandidier Channel, forcing us out to sea to the west of
Renaud Island. We were able to return to the Graham Coast through the
gap between Renaud and Lavoisier Islands to open water where the LMG
Marine Technicians shuttled us to shore at Cape Bellue for our first
steps upon the Antarctic Peninsula mainland, where we unfurled a
Carleton College flag for a photo amidst a sublime and gentle
snowstorm. (Three-fourths of my field team are alums of Carleton,
where Larry Gould founded the Geology Department upon his return from
serving as chief scientist for Admiral Byrd's first Antarctic
expedition.) We finished sampling the Cape Bellue granitoid a full day
ahead of schedule and took advantage of relatively cooperative weather
to head further south than originally planned, with our sights set on
the Pauling Islands and Mügge Island tucked between Laird Island and
northern Adelaide Island where thermochronometry pluton targets
reside.
We were greeted with driving snow and 25 knot winds (near the 'no-go'
Zodiac travel ceiling of 30 knots) on the small, low unprotected
Pauling Islands but were able to collect a thermochronometry sample
from an intermediate composition pluton. Returning to the LMG we
proceeded further south with the excitement of passing below the
Antarctic Circle -- an unanticipated windfall for this already
exceedingly fruitful cruise. Although we were indeed able to pass
south of the Circle, a strong northeasterly gale, large bergs and
thick pack-ice stopped us in our tracks towards Mügge Island. We
paralleled the edge of pack-ice and shifted our goals for a small
granitoid exposure due east of Laird Island but the lead we would need
to navigate to achieve the sample became too narrow for our comfort.
After some consultation with Captain Scott Flanagan and Marine
Projects Coordinator Herb Baker, we have decided to return northbound
to pick up Bob Marshall at Vernadsky and for our port call at Palmer
before we head north towards the Trinity and Tabarin Peninsulas, and
perhaps Seymour Island before we return to Livingston to pick up the
MacPhee team near the end of December. We will use the extra time to
sample more thoroughly in the Anvers Island and Paradise Bay areas.
The helpful and experienced folks at USAP with whom I spoke prior to
the cruise wisely encouraged us to keep our expectations low as our
sampling and travel plans were more ambitious than would likely be
achievable. Fully new to Antarctic travel and research, I told the
Captain, Herb, Chief Mate Joe Abshire, and Special Projects
Coordinators Chris Denker & John Evans upon boarding the LMG in Punta
Arenas that if we collected one-half of the targets I would be
satisfied with the cruise. One week in, we have collected 22 sample
suites from seven different locations. At the current rate, we will
collect >150% of the target samples. Even if our luck runs out tonight
and the next three weeks are a wash (knocking on wood now), we will
have achieved my goal of sampling 50% of the original targets.
Needless to say, this has been a very successful cruise and I am very
grateful for the professional and dedicated efforts of the Edison
Choest Offshore, Raytheon Polar Services, and United States Antarctic
Program crews, without whom this would not be nearly as productive,
let alone enjoyable. I am also deeply indebted to Dr. MacPhee and his
team, whose generosity, camaraderie and friendship have greatly aided
our quest.
We are posting daily updates that combine our scientific progress with
our geographic position and life-at-sea descriptions at
www.geol.sc.edu/barbeau/ipy/index.asp if you are interested.
Until next week, best regards.
Dave Barbeau
University of South Carolina
PI, NSF-ANT 0732995, an International Polar Year Project
Co-Chief Scientist Cruise LMG 07-17, Project G-432-E
--------------------------------------------
Another Premium Day
12/2/2007
Kendra Murray, Carleton College
Location: 64 16.997' S ; 064 06.863' W
Vessel speed: 5.4 knots
Air temperature 3.3 degrees C
Samples collected: 2
At about 04:00 this morning the Gould started rolling (vigorously
enough to wake me up) as we entered the open ocean outside the shelter
of the Peninsula islands, encountering large swells generated by a low
pressure system in the Drake Passage. After a morning heading north
through rough seas, we returned to the calmer waters near the
Argentine Islands to pick up our colleague Bob Marshall. For the past
three days Bob has been setting up a very low frequency (VLF) antenna
for his Stanford University research group, with the help and
hospitality of the Ukrainians at Vernadsky station. For Team Barbeau,
this stop at the southern end of the Lemaire Channel was an
opportunity to sample a granitoid and related gabbro on Cape Tuxen,
adding to our suite of igneous rocks destined for thermochron
analysis.
The peaks and glaciers of Lemaire Channel were hidden in fog and
blowing snow this afternoon, showing how lucky we were on our sunny
and spectacular journey south just a few days ago.
We took a post-dinner zodiac ride out to Py Point on Weincke Island,
where an old Chilean base is perched on a tonalite and populated by
Gentoo Penguins. Careful not to disturb the nesting birds (but
thoroughly enjoying their antics) we explored the tonalite exposures
and took another thermochron sample.
Tonight the Gould heads to Anvers Island for a scheduled port call at
Palmer Station all day tomorrow. Though we hope to sample the
granitoid that surrounds the station, the stop at Palmer is a welcome
opportunity for us to play tourist, check email, and enjoy a well-
deserved beer.
--------------------------------------------
Poem by Dave Barbeau for Talent Show
When I was a child, I n'er thought I would travel
Down the Antarctic Peninsula, where it's icy and cold
There's a boatload of rocks down there to be sampled
So many kilos that my boots's getting worn.
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
Well, sometimes we'd sail right down Lemaire Channel
To the abandoned old hut, down west of Lahille
Where the air smelled with guano and we'd shoot with our Nikons
But white sample buckets was all we would fill
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
Then Team Barbeau came, with rock hammers pounding
And they busted the granite and mined all the land
Well they dug for their zircons, till the land was forsaken
Then they wrote it all down in field books by hand
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
When I die let my ashes, float down Neumeyer Channel
Let my soul roll on up to Grahamland
I'll be halfway to Heaven with Zodiacs waitin'
Just nautical miles from wherever I am.
Oh Captain won't you take me towards the Antarctic Circle
Down by Anvers Island, where old Palmer lay
Well sure thing Dave, we're happy you're asking
The Gould will help you to haul those rocks away.
---------------------------------------------
December 3, 2007
Samples Collected: 1
Dave Gombosi, University of South Carolina
Today was our second stop at Palmer Station. We were due to arrive
~8:00AM, however the meeting before we were allowed to disembark the
boat was slightly later. Kendra, Willy and I stayed on the boat for a
while after that checking our email, sending photos home, etc... with
our newly gained internet connection.
At 11:00 the palmer staff opened up the store for an hour. The
station runs a small one-room store, which sells T-shirts, calendars
and other souvenir items to the tour ships which stop by fairly
regularly. Most of the crew loaded up on holiday shopping for
souvenirs for those back home. In addition to the tourist items since
we were an NSF affiliated group the back room which had all the beer
and liquor was opened up for us. While the Gould is a dry ship, none
of the US stations are.
We grabbed a quick lunch back on the Gould and then were free for the
rest of the afternoon while the crew of the Gould unloaded the ship's
cargo. A few people went walking, around the station. There is a
glacier in back of the station with a nice walk to the summit, but
being a warm day and a bit slushy I don't believe anyone took
advantage of it. The station has two primary buildings and a number
of smaller ancillary facilities scattered around the perimeter. The
living situation is really quite comfortable, and it didn't appear the
station was anywhere near their capacity. In the afternoon Kendra,
Willy, and I went out and collected one sample of tonalite from the
back of the station for thermochronology.
We had a great dinner at the station ~5:30, consisting of pizza and
calzones followed an hour later by a variety show. The variety show
was a wonderful assortment of poems, musical numbers, stupid human
tricks, etc... including one musical number composed by Barbeau based
around the events of our cruise.
After the talent show there was drinking and general socializing as
people slowly drifted home until ~1:00AM. Shortly after our chief
mate Joe showed up, Barbeau, Kendra, and I decided to go for a
traditional dunk into the Antarctic Ocean. We got Willy from the ship
and he agreed to come as well. By 1:30AM under the Antarctic twilight
we all ran down to the ocean dunked ourselves under the sub-freezing
water, and ran immediately back to the waiting hot tub on the side of
the station. We finally decided to head into bed by 2:30AM, just as
the sun was starting to come up over the horizon.
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