3ds Hshop Install
Paulette Dzurilla
3hs downloads from hShop directly. This means you no longer have to scan QR codes or use CIA files to install content from hShop.3hs achieves speeds that have been measured to match and even exceed FBI.
Before you can install 3hs, you need to make sure your console has CFW. This is required to install any content on hShop, regardless of whether or not you're using 3hs.You can find a trusted, always up-to-date guide on how to install CFW here: 3ds.hacks.guide
Then, see the section belowto the right to install 3hs.
However, these days, hacking your system and installing CFW is easier and safer than ever before.
Therefore, you don't need to worry about it. If can you follow the instructions carefully, there is next to no chance that something will go wrong.
The camera preview should appear on the top screen. Position your system's outer cameras close to the QR code to scan it. If you are unable to scan the QR code because it's not being recognized, try wiping your cameras with a cloth to remove any dirt preventing you from scanning the QR code.
This button enables you to directly download the .cia file from hShop onto whichever device you're using to access the hShop website. It is useful when you want to install multiple .cia files using a tool like custom-install.
This method involves installing using the .cia files obtained by clicking the "Direct Download" button. However, this is only possible if you have an SD/microSD card reader or if you know how to use FTP.
hi all;been building the walthers ho car /diesil shop,it has groves formed in the floor for rails but nothing in the instuctions on installing rail or what rail to use . any one delt with this ? assuming you remove your ties from the rail your useing ,what do you use to attach the rail to the plastic base ? thanks J.W.
I had wrestled with those questions also when I first got the building. I used commercial rail, no ties attached, you can buy rail in 3ft lengths at LHS, and I used superglue to hold them down in the groves. I did not use the fast drying type, but a slower one, putting weight down on top of the rails while drying. I cut the rails off at each end of the floor and then attach flex track to complete the the trackwork. Be sure to weather/dirty up the floor before building the structure over it. also clean the railheads so you will not have dead spots. The 3ft rail ensures you don't have joints inside the structure.
I pre-weathered/rusted mine code 83 and just used Walthers Goo. Only reason I did was because thats how they tell you to secure Micro Engineering bridge track. I used three sections of flex track and just cut the ties off for the length of the shop using and exacto blade. Reason for doing this was I built another structure that had rails inside in and ended the track at the door. This proved ot be some what of a problem when trying to attach the approach track. So this time I left the excess hanging out and made the connections farther away so they were noticeable and I had good electrical connection.
I just stripped the rail out of some flex track and slid it into the floor grooves -- it didn't need to be glued or fastened in any way because once the building is put into place there will be no pressure exerted onto it.
thanks to all,it all makes since. like the point on useing flex and keeping the joints away from the building,I would of cut em to the size of the floor and never thought of the problems after the fact. thanks to all J.W.
BIG JERR hi all;been building the walthers ho car /diesil shop,it has groves formed in the floor for rails but nothing in the instuctions on installing rail or what rail to use . any one delt with this ? assuming you remove your ties from the rail your useing ,what do you use to attach the rail to the plastic base ? thanks J.W.
You have received a lot of good advice so far. Here is one more piece of advice. Do not glue the roof in place until after you have secured the rail in place. I know this for a fact, but don't ask me how I know.
I need to take my desktop into a PC repair shop and leave it for a few days. It would be easy for them to copy the drives without me knowing. I am running Windows 10 with a password but this doesn't actually encrypt the drive. I have multiple SSDs in the PC. I considered just taking the SSDs out but this isn't a good idea because I want them to fix cabling issues (someone told me installing a new power supply is easy but I disagree).
Swapping the SSDs for blank (or at least empty of anything-you-care-about) ones would work, though of course then you'd have to swap them back afterward and that has some potential to mess up the cabling (depends on your case). It also requires some SSD(s) you don't care about.
Actually encrypting the drive is a good option. You can use Bitlocker (the Windows built-in disk encryption feature), though depending on your hardware and your Windows edition you might need to upgrade some stuff and/or change some settings to make this work (by default, Bitlocker wants a TPM, and I'm not sure if it's available on Home editions or not). You might be able to use "Device Encryption" even on Windows 10 Home; this is just BitLocker under the covers, but with less user control over its behavior (and in particular, it does require TPM 2.0, which many but not all modern machines have built into their CPUs). Alternatively you can use a third-party encryption utility. Veracrypt (among others) is able to perform full-volume encryption (same as Bitlocker) such that the OS and data are inaccessible without a password or USB key. In either case, the shop would still be able to turn the computer on, though not to get very far; they'd be stopped at or before the Windows login screen. However, all the data (not just specific files) on the disks would be encrypted at rest.
Finally, depending on the shop and the machine in question, you could remove the SSDs while whatever else gets fixed, and then bring them with you and ask the technician to install them while you watch. Installing SSDs takes very little time in most cases, especially for a trained and experienced technician, and can be done without ever letting the SSDs or machine out of your sight. Of course, if the SSDs are SATA and the shop doesn't know you're going to install a bunch of SATA SSDs, they might not run the power and data cables where you'll need them, which might slightly increase the time to install them. Not by much, though. Replacing the PSU on most cases really is quite easy, with cable management being the only tricky part at all and still not that hard (unless your case layout is really inconvenient or the cables are too short, which sometimes happens).
For the most part, you can't. If you want to be able to trust that your computer hasn't been tampered with, it needs to remain in your physical custody. I know someone told you this before and you disagreed with it, but replacing the power supply in a PC case is really no harder than replacing the surge protector strip under your desk; it's just a matter of unplugging and replugging cables (albeit with different plug types on them). As long as you take good notes/pictures of what goes where, you can't really mess it up. If you have concerns about the safety of your data handing the computer over to a shop, I really, cannot recommend strongly enough, figuring out how to do this yourself and avoiding the issue entirely.
If you do really need a shop to work on your computer, like if it's something more difficult you can't do yourself, take the drives out or at least use full disk encryption with the key not stored anywhere on the PC, but derived from a password you have to enter at boot time. I believe this can be done with Bitlocker on stock Windows these days but I'm not a Windows expert by any means so look to other answers for how to do that. Of course this will do nothing to mitigate the possibility of keyloggers or firmware-level malware that might be installed (with or without the shop's knowledge; it's possible their systems are infected by somebody else's malware) while they have your PC.
File-level encryption will help if your only concern is reading/copying certain sensitive data, but it will do nothing to prevent installation of backdoors/spyware that would let someone take your data the next time you use the computer, or (more likely) not-intentionally-malicious but harmful changes to your PC done by an incompetent and/or irresponsible technician during the time they have it.
It would really help if you told us what kind of work you're having done on it. You mentioned replacing the power supply; is that all that's being done? Because, yes, replacing a power supply really is super easy. At my shop, if someone buys the power supply from us, we'll install it for free, right in front of the customer. Unless they have something weird going on, it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes (and that includes the time it takes to remove the old PS).
If there's any other work that needs to be done, the answer will really depend on the nature of that work. Removing the drives or encrypting them are the best options in this scenario, but that might not be possible if the tech needs to access the drive as part of the repair (for instance, installing drivers or removing viruses). In that case, you'll need to either back the files up to a flash drive and delete them, or use file-level encryption.
Are you worried about them stealing your online banking data? Log out of your online bank(s), clear all browsing data, copy any password documents to a flash drive and delete them from the computer, then (if you want to be really sure) use a program to zero out the free space on the drive. (Note: If you do have passwords saved in a document somewhere, they really should be put in an encrypted password safe app anyway, so this might be a good opportunity to do so.)
Are you writing a novel/screenplay/video game/D&D campaign that you don't want to leak? All those files should be grouped together, so it should be fairly simple to encrypt them or copy them to a flash drive, then securely erased.
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