Acid Pro 7 Windows 10

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Elvisa Schimke

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Aug 3, 2024, 6:03:05 PM8/3/24

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An acid wash refers to using any type of acid to clean stains on the glass surface that will not come off with a basic soap and squeegee wash or with an abrasive like steel wool, window brush or razor blade. Some guys use acids to wash the glass even when the glass can be cleaned using these methods but it is quicker or easier to use an acid or product that contains an acid along with other detergents and or soaps.

CC550 contains hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid. Hydrochloric acid is in one restore as well. It also has other ingredients that is deemed proprietary so not sure what that is. Both acids are toxic and can be vary dangerous, more so the Hydrofluoric acid. Here are two links detailing both acids. Specifically read the section on dafety.

Dan fields DVD on water spot removal is a great resource for water spot removal. He is a man of excellence and his advice is thorough and solid. He mentions using phosphoric acid to remove magnesium and calcium deposits from glass. phosphoric acid is phosphoric acid is a mineral based non toxic acid that is safe to use with your hands. It is contained in many common products like moisturizers and soft drinks. According to him the only thing that will remove silcate water spots from glass glass is by using hydrofluoric acid or a polishing method. He does not advocate using hydrofluoric acid because of the risk involved and because it can react with the tin in the glass if the tin side of the glass is exposed causing a hazing affect; which would need to be polished out. I have had problems with tin etch haze using both CC550 and One Restore in the past.

Many toilet bowl cleaners contain hydrochloric acid which will remove magnesium and calcium deposits on the glass but will not remove silicate. I have not tried the phosphoric acid yet but am anxious to give it a go. My thinking is to hit it with phosphoric acid first and if that does not remove the spots then it will need to be polished out.

Acid Pro 8 crashes and gets stuck on "creating child windows" when loading. After uninstalling and reinstalling, it loaded and ran for about 2 hours until it crashed and now will not load again while "creating child windows". Is there a patch that will fix this problem??

the only real fix for this is to go to folder options and check the box called, "show hidden files". then go to C:\Documents and Settings\*username\Application Data\magix\acid Pro\8.0 and delete the ExplorerFavorites.txt file.

As someone who has done acid-based hard water spot removal for years and has seen nothing but great affects on glass, I see this as an untruth. Perhaps he has been misinformed. Chemical manufacturers would not be allowed to brand and sell their products like they do if their product damages glass with proper use, glass being the surface it is intended for. At the very least, their product would be called out by many users, lawsuits would occur, and products would be taken off shelves or reformulated.

I have used acid and non-acid products when removing hard water build up and it does not make a difference and no long term damage if done correctly. The customer wants the build up gone and its gone when I leave and thats what every customer wants. That window cleaner just wants to make his customer feel better about his products and manner of cleaning glass.

Side question: Have you ever seen FD that was visible? A couple of times I saw splotches of brown dots that were surely not paint, felt like FD, and could not come off with anything. It was almost like iron welding overspray that melted into the glass or something, but there was no metal around.

At that particular job I did monthly acid treatment for $100 each month. I would hit some of the same windows. I guess now with the IG seal warning, I would not recommend that. Monthly acid cleaning increases the chances of breaks I guess.

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Make a wetting solution.Wetting solution is the secret ingredient to a smooth, seamless installation. Make a solution by adding 8-10 drops of a mild, non-moisturizing dish detergent (Dawn or Joy; do not use hand soap) to a 32-oz. spray bottle filled with clean water (adjust ratio for smaller or larger bottles). More soap may be needed when applying film to acrylic surfaces. Mix well.

Make a workspace.Give yourself enough space to work. You will need enough flat surface to lay out the film for measuring, cutting, marking and prep. Do not run a fan near the film or glass surface during installation. This can cause dust and debris to blow onto your film and become trapped.

Step 4: Apply and SmoothPick up the film by the top corners, keeping it straight and level. Place the wet film onto the wet surface, keeping the top edge level but letting the film hang over the edges of the frame on all sides. Move, slide and reposition the film as needed. The water should allow it to float and flow easily. Wet the outside of the film with the spray, then slide a squeegee over the wet film to smooth out and press the film against the glass. Squeegee from the center moving out, pushing bubbles and wrinkles out as you go.

Step 5: Trim and FinishDouble check that the film is flat and smooth. Locate the hard card and razor that were included with your film. If any bubbles remain, use the hard card to push them towards the edge. Then, in one smooth, continuous motion, trim the excess film from the edges using the hard card and a razor knife. Once the film is trimmed, wrap the hard card in a paper towel and use it to push any remaining bubbles and water to the outside edge. The film will completely dry and fully adhere within a few days.