Parts list with links to buy

[Orion Foeller]

Im wondering if anyone has posted a list of all the parts that can not be printed with links on where to buy them. The hardest part for my group has been tracking down the required bolts, fishing braid, and servos. In the US many of the local hardware stores don't carry a big selection of metric bolts, or drill bits. I was thinking it would be helpful if someone created a centralized list of all the required parts for each piece, and a link to order them. That way new groups can focus on printing, and assembling instead of tracking down parts.

I know in the US Amazon, and other online retailers often allow affiliates to link to items, and receive a small percentage of the total purchase price for sending traffic their way. I would love to buy my parts from such a list, and have the money go to the creator of Inmoov, to help offset the cost of development. 

[Ben Barbour]

Screws/bolts are usually available at Home Depot or Lowes or Ace Hardware depending on what store is closest to you.  Even though measurements are in metric.. this isn't an 'exact' science.. it's ok to be slightly off with imperial measurements that are close enough.  Except the bolts of course... can't help you there.. I've printed the bolts for the head and hands... haven't looked at the torso/shoulders yet.

 

Fishing Braid is available at any sports store.  I went to Dick's Sporting Goods and bought a few options.. some 90lb test and some heavy duty steel & nylon leader wire.  Maybe I had a better selection being in a beach town full of sea fishermen, but I found more than enough choices.  Walmart is also a good option if they have a fishing section.

 

I have purchased servos from a few locations.  Here is my recent order for servos (someone correct me if I ordered the wrong thing... even though it's too late! ;):

 

Hobbyking:

 

Wait on the description page for a few minutes and they will offer you a “one time discount”.

 

Quantity: 3

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__33311__Corona_DS929HV_7_4v_MG_Digital_Servo_2_4kg_12_5g_0_09sec_USA_Warehouse_.html

 

Quantity: 13

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__33314__Towerpro_MG996R_10kg_Servo_55g_10kg_20sec_USA_Warehouse_.html

 

RC Superstore:

 

Quantity: 10

http://www.rcsuperstore.com/Hitec_HS_805BB_Mega_Giant_Scale_Universal_Servo_p/hrc31805s.htm

[Orion Foeller]

Thanks, you basically described the day I had with my brother as we tracked down parts. Hit up both Home Depot, and bass pro. I appreciate all the links for the servo's because those are what I have had the hardest time tracking down. I suggested the parts list, only to make the process easier for those who decide to build in the future since they can just order them online, and know they have the correct parts instead of spending the day tracking everything down.

Once again thanks for all the help. I appreciate the links to all the servos.

[gael langevin]

Hi Alan and Welcome,

Thanks for this information.
 I believe all your messages have been considered as spam by Google groups because of this very long message that tend to look like a spam.

It also is a bit out specs concerning the real meaning of this topic, I believe Orion was looking mainly for InMoov Parts list with links.

I sure would love if your book also includes already all the sellers through the world of parts that can't be printed for InMoov!!

Gael

2013/6/16 Alan Hart R & D Robotics <ontracke...@hotmail.com>

 

I found the book Robot Builders Sourcebook by Gordon McComb a great source to locate parts etc

 

 

 

Alan

 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "InMoov" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to inmoov+un...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to inm...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/inmoov.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

[Anar]

Hi,
I'm also looking for a complete hardware parts list.
I have started to read everything I found about the project.
And I should start my build of an InMoov in the next weeks.
But for now there are still a few things I don't figure out...

Ben Harbour pointed 26 servo motors while Gael says they are 22 ATM.
From what I have read I started my own hardware list and found out 23 servo motors.
So I'm a bit confused here...

This is what I undestood but please correct me if I'm wrong :

- Eyes Mechanism : 3 x DS929HV servo motors
- Neck and Jaw : 1 x HS-805BB and 1 x HK15298 servo motors
- Shoulder and Torso : 1 x ???? servo motor (so 2 for both arms)
- Bicep : 2 x Hitec HS-805BB servo motors (so 4 for both arms)
- Forearm : 5 x ???? servo motors (so 10 for both arms)
- Wrist : 1 x MG995 servo motor (so 2 for both arms)

Which makes it 23 servo motors (?).
Anyway I'm gonna start with just an arm and will go further on.
That way I will buy only what I need when needed.
I will document my build and will try to make a complete hardware list including nuts & bolts for future InMoov makers.

Cheers !

[Drew Rogge]

There's six in each forearm if you're using rotating wrists.So that's 25.

[Hans Foerster]

Their are 26 servos at the moment.

6 in each hand. 12
Elbow up/down. 2
Elbow rotate. 2
Shoulder rotate. 2
Shoulder lift up/down 2
Head rotate. 1
Jaw. 1
Head up/down. 1
Left/right eye rotate 2
Eyes up/down. 1
26 servos

Hans

[Anar]

OK thanks all for the answers.
That helps !

Cheers.

On Friday, June 14, 2013 2:41:16 AM UTC+2, Orion Foeller wrote:

[gael langevin]

Hi Anar, long time since I heard from you!

I can see this is all pretty confusing, Hopefully when the site is up I can clear this up.

Your list was almost correct, here is what you should have at this moment:

- Eyes Mechanism : 3 x DS929HV servo motors

- Rotation Head and Jaw : 1x HS-805BB and 1 x HK15298 or MG996r servo motors

- Neck,Torso(pushing shoulders): 3x HS-805BB

- Shoulders : 2x HS-805BB (one servo per shoulder)

- Bicep : 2 x Hitec HS-805BB servo motors (so 4 for both arms)

- Forearm : 5 x HK15298 or MG996r (so 10 for both arms)
- Wrist : 1 x MG996r servo motor (so 2 for both arms)

Total: 26 servos

I hope I'm correct, last time I responded, I made a mistake with the reference of servos.

2013/7/31 Anar <a...@spacymen.com>

--

[Anar]

I agree, long time ! My fault...

Yes I think it's a bit confusing but I completely understand why.
I've been spending the day at doing an Excel file that will resume all needed parts along with print estimated times and volumes.
Based on Kisslicer results.
That file is nor ready for publishing yet and I need to verify all the results.
But when it will be done I will submit it here for anyone to be able to make it better, bring corections, etc.
I hope it will become a "Please read that before to print" document.
With the kind help of all the InMoov community.

Just as a "teaser"  : don't expect less than 450h printing for the actual InMoov (not precise, might be even more...).

Thanks for these precisions Gael !
Will help to complete my document.

Anar.

On Friday, June 14, 2013 2:41:16 AM UTC+2, Orion Foeller wrote:

[Anar]

Good news !
I think I've been pessimistic about the total InMoov print time.
My new estimation shows it will take 368 hours for the project in it's actual state.
But even better, I've been able to speed up the printer I'm using and the real print time for the first InMoov part I've just printed is much less than what KS estimated.
So it should be quiet much less !

Now I have to configure KS estimation to reflect the real print time and redo all my estimate (reslice all)...

[Haydn Davies]

Hello All,

Just a tip for buying nuts and bolts.

I'm from the UK and always hear about "Home Depot" and asume it's a bit like our B and Q.
If you want to buy nuts and bolts DON'T go to B and Q (Or Homebase etc.) They are incredibly expensive.

I order metric nuts and bolts from various suppliers on ebay. I buy 100 at a time because it works out about the same cost as buying 10 from B and Q !!!  (You can never have TOO many nuts and bolts...)

I recently bought a wide selection of hundreds of M4 and M5 bolts in various lengths and the bill was about £50.
I also ALWAYS go for button "Allan" head  screws. So much easier to use.

Here is a link to a website that has a very simple bit of free software to download for metric/imperial conversion. (In fact, you can convert almost anything with it.) I've had the software about 10 years and use it almost every day !

http://joshmadison.com/convert-for-windows/


Hope this helps.

Haydn

[Keith McGerald]

@Gael, I notice that your servo count doesn't include the second servo for the thumb. Is the 2DOF thumb not considered to be a worth while part of the project right now?  I printed the original thumb but found the other one yesterday and 6 servo forearm mount so I was going to print them. At this point I only have all 5 fingers, the palm, and the wrist completed but I need to make a choice on the forearm since that is my next big print.

You can see my progress on the MRL blog.  http://myrobotlab.org/content/and-so-it-begins

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "InMoov" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to inmoov+un...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to inm...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/inmoov.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

--
-Keith

[gael langevin]

Hi All,

@Haydn, Getting bolts in a bunch is my way of doing as well, good advise. The "Allan" head bits are also what I use, they are handy and look good on the robot. :)

@Keith, Concerning the second DOF for the Thumb, yes of course it is good but I haven't printed it, as you can see now you can add a 7th servo easily in the forarm for it. Myrobotlab isn't implemented for it though, but I'm sure that could be modified.

Anyway I recommend to print the last version for to hold the servos (Simple servo Bed), it is easier to adjust tensions of the braid line and you can add the servo for extra DOF thumb.

I see you have a heated bed, if you can print without raft, it is much better because in many case I took the advantage of the flat printed surface as friction surface.

Your Prusa is doing a good job, and you are for sure helping it very well. It's nice to see the pics and progress on MRL.

[Keith McGerald]

I'm printing at a pretty low speed since I know that's where my printer's sweet spot is for quality. Eventually I'll tune the printer up more so I can go a bit faster.

I haven't been using a raft on my prints because my bed is smooth and level but I do put a brim on the first layer to help keep the parts stuck down and to prevent warping when I know that I need to glue two flat bottoms together later.

--
-Keith

[Keith McGerald]

Quick question about the tendons ... I'm looking for the fishing braid to use for the tendons and I'm having a hard time finding the 200 lb braid but I'm finding a lot of options in the 100 lb range or lower. Do we really need 200 lb test for InMoov? I see that the bigger joints like the elbows and shoulders use gear drives so the braid is used mostly for the fingers. For the starter finger I used braided steel wire used for hanging picture frames since I had it available but it was tough to work with.

Also does anyone have a good hardware list for nuts and bolts?  I have some M3 and M4 cap head screws from my printer build but when i went looking for the M8 bolts for the hands at my local Sears Hardware (which has a better metric assortment than other local US hardware store) I had a hard time finding bolts the right length that still had a head that would fit.  Last night I started looking on Amazon to see what I could find and held off on buying anything just yet since I need to get a better count of what I'll need beyond the hands.

--
-Keith

[Drew Rogge]

Try www.mrmetric.com for metric fasteners. They have a great selection and reasonable shipping.

I too have a question about the tendons. All the instructions mention using braid for the tendons
but all the pictures I see are using what is known in the US as Monofilament. Braided lines are
made of multiple filaments spun together:

http://www.sportfishingmag.com/techniques/rigs-and-tips/braided-lines-defined

Monofilament line is, as the name would suggest, made from a single strand of plastic

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-86Rv73Kdiro/UVyhVtF_onI/AAAAAAAABZ8/Tzg5eGAx80I/s1600/DSC05907.JPG

It seems to me that monofilament would not wear the finger parts as much when sliding across
them but braided is easier to get good knots in.

Drew

[Morris Ford]

I ordered my fishing line from Amazon. It is called 'Fishing PE Superbraid Braided Line X-strong (green 300m, 200lb 0.8mm) '

Their page: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C8KDOJ4/ref=pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I order all my hardware from McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much everything and at good prices. I have stopped going to local hardware stores to get bolts and such because they almost never exactly what I want and their prices are really high.

http://www.mcmaster.com

Morris

[Lewis Manning]

@Drew Rogge,

In that image Gael is using nylon strings as tendons, he then upgrades to using fishing braid at 200lb strength as shown in this picture:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZI75Q26VQ7Q/UiB9_DJlgOI/AAAAAAAABy8/Xm2hAVOcogI/s1600/DSC06096.JPG

The point of the fishing braid is that it takes more force to temporarily (Elastic Deformation) deform when it is stretched (Elastic Modulus) and has a higher resistance to permanent (Plastic Deformation) deformation (Elastic Limit) as compared to nylon wire.

For example a rubber band has a LOW Elastic Modulus, but a HIGH Elastic Limit. Meaning it will easily stretch even under a small force, but it's so stretchy that it'll take a lot of force to permanently deform it.

If something I said is wrong, please feel free to correct me :)

Experience: 2nd year of Electronic Engineering at UK University

Lewis

[Didier Roudaut]

Hello Gael! 

You wrote on this post that for the wrist, a servo MG996r is required but on the web site it's said MG995 is used for the wrist. As I don't know much about servos for the moment, does that mean both servos MG996r and MG995 could be used or is there a mystake somewhere ? Thanks in advance for you reply.

[Keith McGerald]

the MG996r is a newer replacement for the MG995 and should be better.  I used MG996r servos for my InMoov hand but I haven't done much with it beyond moving one servo at a time to get the lines tensioned.

--
-Keith

[CStidham]

can you share your excel file and other build info?