Cover Finger. We aren´t able to print it

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Sören Kuhlmann

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Nov 11, 2014, 7:33:50 AM11/11/14
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Hello,

we want to print the inmoov and we have started with the right hand, but we can´t print the cover finger. We are using a fabbster g and we have tested every single kind of support/quality but without any good outcome. The extruder will move it everytime.

I hope you can help us....

neohaptic

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Nov 18, 2014, 3:41:24 AM11/18/14
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Hi Sören,

so I understand your problem is specifically with the "coverfinger" (the finger tips) because of the small base surface, and it not sticking to the print bed?

The solution depends on various factors: What material are you using (PLA? ABS? Other?) What kind of bed (material)? Heated or cold? Are you using blue painter's tape, Kapton, ore glue stick?

On my end, I use PolyMax PLA, on a cold glass bed, with a thin layer of UHU stick. No support or raft needed, the parts stick so well to the bed that they are even hard to remove sometimes. Even with regular PLA, the finger tips are never an issue. ABS might be a lot trickier though - again, please specify your filament material and print surface.

gael langevin

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Nov 18, 2014, 8:59:24 AM11/18/14
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Hello guys,
Thanks Sören for helping out.
If you are talking about the finger tips then Sören is in the right direction.
But if you are talking about the "coverfinger1.stl", some others had issues printing them. This is mainly due to the fact that the base is slightly curved to fit roundness of the fingers once glued.
Here is another STL file where I have set them up to avoid that problem. If you use this file be carefull not to have too much support infill other wise you will never get them apart.
Hope this helps.

coverfinger1UP.stl

Keith McGerald

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Nov 18, 2014, 10:00:46 AM11/18/14
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If you are printing with ABS and have problems with the parts warping and popping off, I highly recommend printing with a 5mm brim. It's easy to peel off afterwards. I print with ABS and my print bed is glass at 110-120C with hairspray on it. I've used kapton tape and ABS "soup" in the past but I've moved to the hairspray and I don't see myself going back to fighting with the tape.

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Jim Nason

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Jun 10, 2017, 4:12:40 PM6/10/17
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Hi,  I used the 5mm brim, and it worked! Prior to brim, I did 8 to 10 different tries on the M2 MakerGear at 70 Kapton and 220 for PLA.  I used various temperatures, etc.  I had to use SLIC3R to split them into individual pieces and then printed them one by one.  Whew, finally :-)

gael langevin

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Jun 14, 2017, 2:11:04 PM6/14/17
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I'm glad you got them printed.
This little parts can be a challenge sometimes depending on your slicer and printer.

Gael Langevin
Creator of InMoov
InMoov Robot
@inmoov



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Richard Zimmerman

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Jun 15, 2017, 11:16:26 AM6/15/17
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I print in ABS only, and print on glass at 100c. I use the Elmer's purple glue stick. I rub the glue stick on a CLEAN plate of glass and add a few drops of water and with my hand, I smear the milky glue to cover the entire surface. I then let it dry.
Using an automotive feeler gauge, I level my bed to .05mm from the nozzle. Another thing that really helped is to set the first layer width to 200% for the nozzle diameter. Now every print is impossible to remove from the bed until the bed cools down to under 45c then the part just lifts off with no effort. I can go 30 - 40 prints before I need to redo the glue. But check bed level before every print.
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