BfB 3D touch + tool chain

[Kevin Wheatley]

New to the group, just about to embark on this fascinating project, new also to 3D printing so have a LOT to learn :)

Based in Cumbria, UK, 55 years experimenting and playing with amateur radio and embedded systems. The Arduino platform is no stranger :) Looking forward to experimenting with Odroid-U3
& Lunix (all new to me).

I have recently purchased a second hand BfB 3D touch, needing some TLC before I can start printing. Is there a recommended tool chain configuration? Currently running the latest firmware V5.4.2, Axon2 3.0 alpha 3*.

What material ABS or PLA ?

Looking at adding a heated bed and print on glass, but the embedded (and hidden) magnet on the print bed for Z axis complicates this a little, has anyone done this before?

As you can see, I'm full of questions :)

Thank you Gael for releasing the files to the community.

Cheers
Kevin

[Kevin Wheatley]

OK Big progress today, I'm printing!... BUT.....

OK I'm currently printing a test file, looks like a large logo brick, the file name & ext is brick.bfb, PLA no heated bed.

Using Axon 3 it seems I can only create .bfbe file extensions, thus the BfB 3D touch (firmware V5.4.2) doesn't recognize this extension, what version of Axon should I be running?

Posting here because I'm aware Gael uses this tool chain.

Cheers
Kevin

[Kevin Wheatley]

OK problem solved, now running Axon 2, can import Gael's stl files and generate the required g code. the .bfb files can now be read by BfB 3D Touch (V5.4.2)

Currently printing the 'FaceHolderV3' parts.

Within Axon 2 there are a wide number of printer configuration settings (for specific filaments) are the defaults acceptable?
Also are there standard fill and support recommendations, or is this something I will just get to know from experience (failed prints).

Have had a great day and in about 5 hours time I'll have my first parts :)

Cheers
Kevin



On Saturday, November 8, 2014 11:23:30 AM UTC, Kevin Wheatley wrote:

[Mark Abrams]

I have found the fill and support recommendations on the assembly pages of the inmoov.fr site

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[gael langevin]

Hi Kevin,
Welcome to InMoov.

First of all, I also use a Bfb 3D Touch and I can tell you that it is a very reliable printer. Mine has been running for almost 3 years and I never had a clogged extruder.
Here is a copy of the old BFB forum before it was shut down by 3D system with a lot of info (when it works):
http://elco.crsndoo.com/bfb/www.bitsfrombytes.com:8080/forum.1

I bought a heated bed at Makerfarm:
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/printer-electronics/8-4-x-12-6-heat-bed.html

You will need to remove the magnet set within the heated bed and place it by side lifting arm


I don't use Axon but Kisslicer because Axon is a dinosaurs, it takes ages to slice a STL file. If you need I can give you all my settings for Kisslicer and you will be able to print right off.
http://kisslicer.com/

This is my little extra knife to avoid bringing filament hair on the print bed:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17981

[gael langevin]

Moving the magnet sensor:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26182
http://submodal.com/blog/3d-touch-heated-bed-a-success/
http://elco.crsndoo.com/bfb/www.bitsfrombytes.com:8080/usd/forum/post/heated-bed-0%3Fpage=10

[Kevin Wheatley]

Hi Gael

Thanks for all the info, very interesting...
I have now printed a few parts for the head support structure and have learnt a lot about the 3D touch, Axon and printing in general. So far I've been printing in PLA.
I'm not happy with the raft or the first couple of layers, this I believe is due to Axon and the default temp settings, so will start to use Kisslicer, thanks for the recommendation.

Do you have a multi head printer? If so do you use a different support structure material? Your default Kisslicer settings would be very welcome.

I already have the parts including PID controller to incorporate a heated bed, this will be the first upgrade before moving the Z sensor magnet, once again thank you for the very useful info. In fact I'll start printing the magnet support bracket tonight (following the day job).

My heated bed is similar to yours, do you print directly onto FR4 or have you introduced a glass top plate?

Currently my printer does not have the fixture or fittings for the 'wipe' system, this looks to be a good addition, and will look into incorporating this system to my machine.

I am looking to replicate your set-up to minimise assembly issues.

I'll be upgrading my machine before continuing my InMoov adventure.

Learning lot's and having a great time.

Cheers
Kevin


 

On Saturday, November 8, 2014 11:23:30 AM UTC, Kevin Wheatley wrote:

[gael langevin]

Hi Kevin,
Here is my set up:

The printer is always closed as a chamber to keep a steady temperature inside.

I have my ABS roll outside, and the PLA for support on the second extruder, inside.

This is the aquarium pump used to cool down my prints. I have removed the three big fans (default cooler in 3D Touch) and replaced them with a blower connected with a hoze to the pump.

This system avoids delamination and warping of the ABS. The pump is activated manually.

  

[gael langevin]

I have removed the original bed, used as a template and created my own  printing heated bed. I use a PCB from Makerfarm. Above, fixed by the washer is a ceramic glass plate. I never print on the glass.

Above the glass I clamp an epoxy sheet FR4 covered with Kapton tape and a slush of acetone. I never remove the glass. I have two FR4 sheet, this way when a print is finished I can remove the FR4 and replace directly, no need to wait for cooling. Saves a LOT of time. Also the FR4 is bendable, prints can pop off very neatly from the surface without the use of a tool.

The thermistor is set under the heated PCB. I have placed a sheet of heat protection wool to avoid transmitting the temperature below the PCB.

As you can see I have cut out open the bed template to gain weight. this is necessary to avoid stressing the Z stepper motor.

[gael langevin]

This is a stop end switch added to shut down the whole printer when a print is finished. It is nice when a print runs through the night, it automatically turns everything off until the next morning.

This is my magnet sensor prob set up.

Here are the various STL files to reproduce what I did.

[gael langevin]

To use my setings with Kisslicer, just remove the XXX.ini files from the folder where you have saved the kisslicer.exe and replace them with my XXX.ini files. Keep a copy of your original somewhere (you never know).

I hope this helps,

Gael

[Mark Abrams]

Thanks for sharing these. I think I would like to try using the FR4. Seems like a great idea for continuous printing and for peeling prints. What thickness of FR4 are you using? Also, what is your nozzle size?

[gael langevin]

I think the FR4 is 1.5mm. My nozzle is 0.5mm, I can print at 0.10mm up to 0.6mm but I never use these extreme settings, too delicate to manage.

[Martin Mayr]

Hello Kevin and Gael,

the above discussions were very interesting, I ran into another problem with my 3D Touch, and I wonder if you had these problems too (and maybe solved it allready):

The filament stucks sometimes inside the plastic tube going into the extruders. 

First ABS broke inside the long tubes going up from the bottom of the machine to the heads... so I bypassed these and put my wheels outside the prinder, but now I have also two of the short tubes which got stuck and I can't either push nor pull out the residues and can't feed any material anymore .

I started unmounting the whole thing and saw the extruder heads are mounted from bottom but the heat nose hides some screws ... anybody unmounted these allready ?

Best regards and thanks for any ideas ...

Martin

[Martin Mayr]

Hello again and just another question for you:

Do you have ever tried the 3D Touch with 1.75mm material ? Is there a way to work with thinner (less braking) filaments ?

Any exchange parts for noozles heater units ???

Best regards

Martin 

[gael langevin]

Hello Martin,

I have unmounted the the extruders head about three times since five years. They are not easy to disasemble because some parts hides other mounting screws. But the best way is to get the PDF available on internet to see how the whole thing is assembled. The PDF gives some clues and will help you.

Concerning the ABS breaking, I find it strange because, it is normaly pretty hard to break ABS filament.

Normally you should be able to push the away the broken pieces a a new roll of filament unless the tubing has been bent and has an angle somewhere.

You can disassemble all the tubings to help yourself solving the issue.

Gael Langevin

Creator of InMoov

InMoov Robot

@inmoov

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