Jd Blitz Black Paint

[Nayra Waddles]

Iam in the process of cleaning up the underside of my 72 convertible I have been looking into different paints and finishes and when it comes to spraying my floors and rails I am not sure if I should go with a "chassis paint" like from eastwood or POR15 or should I go with a regular satin/ semi gloss black spray paint? The car is one we drive and show I want the bottom side to be clean and have the correct colors. Is it worth buying a $15-$20 can of chassis paint or should I just buy a $7-$9 can of regular metal spray paint?

Going around the block on this. Chassis that I have sandblasted and painted in the past I have use a Naptha based primer and paint from Tractor Supply. The stuff is tough and durable and stands up well on farm machinery. However, in the sunlight it will fade as the years go by. Underneath a car this will not be a problem. POR 15 from what I understand is a very good product. However, you need to have a water hose handy while doing the prepping steps. For most of us this means doing it outside in good weather. I'll have more experience with this in a month or two as we are getting ready to do the bottom of a 1980 Fiat Spider with it. As far as keeping it clean. Don't drive it, and be sure all the oil leaks are fixed.

POR-15 chips like any other paint unless it is applied directly to the base metal. The factory rep for Rustoleum told me that acetone is the preferred reducer for spraying and cleaning the gun. I am with you Denny.

Short Story: Grandma moved from Arizona to VA, dad had her 1999 Buick Lesabre shipped out here and its sitting in his driveway. He said it may need a paintjob. I figured it might just need a good polish to bring it back...

Hard to see with the lighting in the pics but clearcoat on all horizontal surfaces is completely gone. Many touch ups with white spray paint. Cracking paint all over the bumper covers under the spray paint.

Plan A: My youngest brother may have himself a 1999 Buick Lesabre soon, his first car. Car only has 60k miles on it and apparently drives well, everything works, etc. I figure it would be fairly bulletproof for him. If the plan is for him to keep it for several years, I am thinking this is a good candidate to practice spraying some John deere blitz black and I can subject my brother to helping me do prep work. Might be fun. Might be awesome. Not expensive.

I am pretty sure if we are just going to sell it off soon, its NOT worth getting a respray. Am I wrong about that? I see a E36 M3load of prep work that if not done right would just make a respray terrible. And even with low miles I dont see 99 lesabres listed for much moneys so I am not even sure its worth the effort.

I too would keep iy with that low of miles if it runs good, you'll never get much for it bc no one goes I really want a 99 lesabre, they will just see the paint and lowball you on it. I'd drive it into the ground

This, I had some friends ( twins) with a Buick with over 200k miles on a 3.8. Their older brother and sister used it, it had been in 5 accidents, was rusting from 15 Wisconsin winters, half the paint fell off, it was covered in stickers, was beat on and everything. Half the car was worn out and dying fast, but the engine ran beautifully.

It sounds like keeping the car may be contingent on if my brother actually gets his license this summer (he is 21). He's not much of a car guy obviously so I think any ideas (paintwise) beyond getting it through inspection would be up to him.

I think my 'rents would LOVE it if he would be able to drive himself back and forth from college with a massive sedan to carry all his stuff. Wasn't there discussion about tubas in cars around here lately? He plays the tuba in the marching band. Haha.

Now before i begin, lens don't look anything like this in real life, I have placed infra red lamps and the laser rangefinder glass in probably unrealistic places. but this is purely for the aesthetic.

The goal of the project is to give your soviet tanks that reflection look, this is often described as the gemstone effect if you play in other game systems with medieval types with jewels hilts and the such. The concept is not entirely different.

1.1 Brushes Size 2

So let's get started, The first thing you will need is paint, some brushes ( i use a springer and prinsel brushes, you can find them here for really cheap sable brushes with great quality that keep their point. I use a size 2 brush for this but feel free to use what works for you.

1.1 Paints of choice:

As I am going for two colours of choice for my lens and lamps. I decided togo with red for the infrared lamp and the laser rangefinder, while going with a nice dark blue for my other flash lights.

While you theoretically only need a single colour for each kind of lamp you want, red is a dificult colour to brighten as it transitions from a dark red to a rich red before going pinkish. so i chose to use a dark dragon red and a Flat red.

The colour choices here don't matter as much as when you do it, as long as you do enough gradients of the colour, it will turn out great.

the beauty of this is you really only need the colours of the lens and white to make this effect work.

Last but not least, you will need black no pictured here since everyone who is painting would have black.

2.0 Painting reflective lens effects

I am by no means an expert on this topic and am not a particularly good painter but i have been asked before on how to do this so i am sharing my method. I copied this mostly off a commission painter and by just seeing his work up close and attempting to replicate it (Kudos to Kenneth Tan IG handle Kennethtankt )

The main thing about the reflection effect is contrast and gradients, there are two effects you will use concurrently to create the illusion of reflection. On one side of the lens which i will go through first is the gradient of the colour that your eye picks up. The second is the contrast of where the light hits and appears as a white dot, this must be surrounded by complete black to trick the eye. you will see this later when you view Work in Progress (WIP) shots and the whole effect wont work until that white dot is placed. you will see.

2.1 Prepping the areas

As contrast is important, the first step in this process is to pick out the glass reflective areas and slap them all black like so

3.1 The Red lens and lights

While I will follow the same process, you will find the same principle works on the tiny surfaces that are mean to be blue. Like most things, the more of an effect you have on the model, sells it as a whole. so all white dots must be in the same relative spot on the different lens.

So that's how the lens are done. I think it gives a very menacing look to go with reds even though i know they aren't actually that colour. A menacging look for a total joke of a tank T-55 in the cold war.

Great, thanks guys. Just the info I was looking for. So from looking around online, the PPG DP90LF is an epoxy primer that you need to mix 2:1 with their DP401LF or DP402LF catalyst (does that mean 2 parts primer to 1 part catalyst or vice-versa?). Does it need any topcoat over it or anything, or just leave it as is?

A good, inexpensive underhood black is the SEM Hot Rod Black.. Nice rich satin finish with just a bit of sheen.

Saw a car with the engine compartment done with this paint last night. This will be my next underhood black choice.

Here

Sounds good, except that I'd used some of the high temp paint. Reason being that the inlet tank is prone to get quite hot and as you said regular spray paint may crack and peel over time. This VHT one is pretty good stuff, I've used it on my exhaust front pipe. Here's a pic of the stuff I'm talking about:

I'm glad I asked the paint people though. They said that the high temp paint would peel off after a while so I got some primer for use with aluminium and then put the high temp paint over that. They actually got the distributor on the phone for me to explain it all.

Excellent. I think even if the black does absorb heat that is no bad thing as the inside of the cooler is nearly always going to be hotter than ambient temp so if the black paint does absord heat, wouldn't it be helping draw heat out of the cooler? I dunno, but i don't think it'll cause a problem either way.

There's a trade-off when painting radiators and the like. Generally, the paint is applied for protection. It is usually black, because black radiates heat better. Yes, it also absorbs heat more, but in this case we want to release heat, not trap it.

But - and here's the trade-off - the resins that make up the paint are poor thermal transmitters. So while the black allows the heat to be radiated more efficiently, the paint itself inhibits the flow of heat from the metal surface to the surface of the paint.

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