Ford Jg Codes
Kum Dana
Hello again. I just wrote up a how-to on changing the fuel pump on my 09 Ford Edge and I was elated to get the car up and running again but unfortunately it seems life wants to take another jab at me. I just got my car back on the road after changing the fuel pump in my Edge and everything ran great and still does but here's the problem. It's now showing a engine service light and when I hook up the reader it gives me the codes P0171 and P0174 which are 'running too lean' on banks 1 and 2. To further this new mystery is that when I'm just starting to accelerate or when I'm at cruising speed and I slowly give it some gas, a diesel sounding rattle comes from the engine. If I punch it a little or press harder it clears up the noise but the codes come back every time I clear it. It doesn't seem to affect engine performance either which is odd. I cleaned the MAF sensor and ran seafoam through 1 tank and no change. Any ideas to this mystery? I might just take it in to the dealer later but for now I like self maintenance routes the best. Thanks for the help.
The lean condition on both banks simultaneously suggests the vacuum leak. Any vacuum leak would admit more air into the engine causing a lean condition. If it were one bank or the other, I'd chase the oxygen sensors. It still may be the oxygen sensors, but both going bad at the same time would be rare. The oxygen sensors may throw a separate DTC code (BMW does) indicating that the sensor is reporting slowly or late, not sure Ford does this.
Thank you for the information. With your assistance I have discovered 2 problems that caused this to happen and I fixed both and now the car is as quiet as a kitten and passes people on the interstate like a Cheetah lol. That new pump coupled with this great V6 and AWD makes for very speedy and responsive acceleration. I will list the 2 problems and what I did to fix it below.
There was in fact a disconnected vacuum hose. I think that the dealership that I had to drop my car off at when it originally broke down failed to reattach all of the vacuum hoses after doing their troubleshooting. I discovered a vacuum hose that runs from the back of the black plastic intake to a hose that connects to the brake booster was not connected properly. There's a joint in the hose directly behind the battery and it wasn't pushed in all the way. (fig. 1) I was just resting on the opening of the joint instead like as if someone was going to push it back on but didn't. I alao noticed that the other end of the brake booster hose that connects to the mair air intake on the other side of the MAF sensor wasn't pushed in all the way either. (fig. 2) After I reconnected the hose and pushed the other in all the way the diesel engine rattle disappeared from acceleration but the car kept throwing the codes. (Note: Both pictures are taken after I fixed it. It's just for reference.)
Since the codes kept coming back it dawned on me that the computer learns how your engine runs and adjusts according to what it knows about the engine parameters.I figured maybe it was still looking for my old pump (pressure readings) or it was still trying to overcorrect from the air leak. Either way I figured I could jump start it by forcing the computer to relearn everything. So I just simply disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and then the computer would have to relearn the engine. Afterwards I took it for a test drive and the car ran good but shifted rough. After about 15 minutes of driving through town, and then on the highway, it started to shift super smooth. Just to make sure the codes wouldn't come back I drove it to work and back which is 50 miles round trip and they never came back and I haven't heard the rattle since I first reconnected the brake booster hose. So all in all it's back to its like new feel and performance. Thanks again.
My edge started having hesitation bad fuel mileage stalling out at low rpms and this ticking noise I took it to the dealer for diagnostic they said its was phasers I replaced all the pasers timing chains water pump crank sprocket guides Tensioners vet solinoids put back togeather same problem took back to dealer had them check oil pressure was ok they told me the only thing that could have happened is that I got the main timing chain a tooth off so I tore it back down and rolled motor over by hand until the marks aligned back up I had it timed correctly now dealer wont return my calls have called 5 plus times a day for three days anyone having similar issues??? Als I have replaced spark plugs oil sending unit throttle body have only used synthetic oil since new and for filters never missed an oil change and it has 90 k on it
It is possible that cam and crank sensors might be next on the list to check out (do not replace just yet). I would also consider cleaning the MAF sensor or just replacing it entirely with a quality aftermarket brand if cleaning makes no difference.
Before I did the work I was getting codes p0012 p0014 p0022 p0024 p0301 p0401 after I did the work Im getting codes p0012 p0022 p0301 p0401 I have not checked mass airflow sensor yet I did check resistance on all 4 cam sensors they were around 1250 and the crank I could not find spec but was around 650 no issues with mice car was driven everyday also right before all these problems started witch they developed slowly one day it would not start was at home didnt have my tools with me screwed with it for about 2 hours and it finally started never figured out what cactuses it
When the hesitation started before any codes were poping up I did an early oil change replaced air filter spark plugs I changed out throttle body my friend said these ford had a huge problem with the throttle body
you are seeing intake cam timing overretarded on BOTH bank 1 and bank 2, plus misfire bank 1 and Insufficient EGR flow. The Edge/MKX does not have a separate EGR component as it is all integrated into timing operation.
The timing can be explained by sticking VCT solenoids, at least that would be the easy solution. But to have both on at the same time is unusual, unless it is a case of a delayed oil change or incorrect oil weight. As enigma said, check the PCM first, clean up the connections, apply dielectric grease to the connectors and reconnect. Then clear codes (KAM reset) and see what if any codes reappear.
These engines use DAMB (direct acting mechanical bucket), not lifters. I would take it to yet another dealership if all they did was diagnose by listening to the sound. Maybe even a Japanese motorcycle repair shop. They are far more experienced with DAMB and can confirm if it is indeed a valve operation issue.
Pulled two codes: C1235 and C1236. These are both ABS Sensor codes for the rear wheels. I recently got a flat tire (three days ago) on my Right Rear wheel and had the spare on for a short period to bring it to the shop to have a new tire put on (only drove maybe 6 miles). Wondering if the spare being on there would cause this code? But then why would the code be present for both rear wheels? There is no light on the dash at this time, so wondering if these will go away over time or if I need to bring my car in to get these checked.
with battery charged overnight.txt I just bought this 2013 Ford C Max Hybrid SEL As Is. I drove it home (about 10kms) from sellers house. Just before I reached home, car kind of stalled for a second and "Stop Safely Now" message appeared on the dashboard along with Tire pressure sensor fault message. Car dropped down to around 20km/hr. I barely made it to home. And since then, it doesn't start anymore. Everytime I try to start, it attempts to start and the stop Safely Now message pops up. I thought it had something to do with TPMS so I made sure all tires were properly inflated. Still error didn't go. I have a cheap OBD2 scanner. Prior to buying the car, it had a check engine light and my tester picked up P2401 Evap system leak code. Still the car was drivable.
After reading for a bit, I think the top two are the ones needing to get worked on. I don't know where to go from here. I am a bit handy when it comes to car repairs but this is new for me since it's my first hybrid.
I just started having this same issue with the Stop Safely Now message. First time was last week and the second time was tonight. After driving for about an hour the ICE would stop and dash warning would come on. I pulled over to the side of the road and pressed Engine Stop button and then opened the door to completely turn everything off.
I have a OBDLink II scanner but it shows no codes. This makes me think it is not a logic problem and that it is mechanical. Maybe something is overheating and causing an electrical open circuit.
Reading from here..
_content/catalog/motorcraft/OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf
It says the SOBDMC is a charger module that is designed to charge the car from AC input .. do you have a C-MAX Energi -- and have you been able to open the charge port and charge the high voltage pack?
Either that or maybe the high voltage battery pack relay is stuck open? Do you hear any relay clicking noise in the back when you "start" the car? When the car is off the relay is normally open to disable the High voltage components of the car .. when you command the car to start, if all the checks pass it will command the relay to close, which connects the high voltage components of the car to the high voltage battery pack. There is a HVB safety plug that can be manually pulled to ensure HVB is disconnected while servicing the car, perhaps this plug is loose ?
All speculation on my part ..
I deleted the SOBDMC P0A0A: 13 (Circuit Open) code using ForScan and rescanned for the codes. P0A0A didn't come back and SOBDMC P1A10 (Battery Disabled) code also disappeared and didn't show up either. Tried to start the car and it's behaving like before.
Then I deleted SOBDMC P0A92: 71 (Actuator Stuck) code and tried to start the car, but the car still wouldn't start and the same Stop Safely Now message appears. Also rescanned for codes and the P0A92 Actuator Stuck Code came back but reset of the codes are gone.
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