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Argelia Long

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Aug 2, 2024, 9:43:21 PM8/2/24

to inknowtoscvi

If you delete your photos from the memory card on your laptop, the image library on the card gets bugged: the deleted photos are still in the library, but not actually on the card. Hence they are 'unable to display'.

Applicable to all E-mount cameras as far as I know, and not related to Mac. The only way to properly delete photos from the card is in-camera, or format the card in-camera after deleting photos on the card on some other device.

I just took five shots around the room, displayed them on the PC then deleted them. Remove the SD card from the PC and plugged back into the A7II and pressed Play button and I get "No images in this view" message. The same message that I get when I format the SD card in the A7II.

I shot 7 random photos, plugged the SD card in the PC and deleted 4 photos. After dismounting the SD card from the PC, I plugged it back in the A7II and the 3 remaining photos were reviewable on the camera monitor and the 4 deleted images stayed deleted. No unable to view message popped up.

I took another five shots. viewed the photos on the PC then did a quick format on the PC. Removed the SD card from the PC, plugged it in the A7II. Power on the A7II and immediately get "Image Database Not Found, Create?" message. If cancel is pressed the camera tells you to re-plug in the card and format. After I accept to create the image database and press Play button, I get the "No images in this view" message.

In conclusion (at least with my A7II), deleting any or all photos outside of the camera doesn't cause any problem but an SD card needs to be formatted in the camera in order for the camera to recognize the SD card and record media.

I'm using 7RM4A and facing the same issue. Looks like a glitch or a bad design. The camera illtreats the card when the photos are deleted from it using any means other than the camera like deleting them using a computer and card reader. It is really hard to delete all the residue files manually from the camera and formatting them would help but I doubt if any SD card could bear only a certain number of times formatting it which is limited during the life span of a photographer or the card itself.

Yes, it's Sony's infamous "image database" that is recorded on the memory card as the camera takes photos. I don't know why Sony does this, but they have been doing it for a long time (I have been using Sony cameras for almost 10 years, and they have been doing it at least that long, and probably much longer).

I recommend reformatting the card in the camera, but only after uploading them to the computer AND backing them up to another disk. If you have more than one memory card (which I recommend), then I'd hold off reformatting the card until after you have checked the images using your editing program, at least.

When I click on the play button the photos are there. I connected the camera to my computer through USB and switched it on. When I click import pictures it says that there are no new pictures. When I click to view the contents there are no pictures there. How do I retrieve the images?

I have done that but the folder appears empty and when I click import pictures it says that there are no new pictures to import. This is wrong because when I click the playback button on the camera the pictures are there.

my camera is sony nex-c3. help! my problem is that i have tried your suggestion but it does not have a "copy" in the memory card tool located in the set up menu. i have also tried connecting my camera to my laptop using the usb cable. however, there were no pictures. only those stored in my memory card can be viewed in my laptop. help me. the pictures saved in the internal memory of my camera was my oath taking ceremony.

I just bought a Sony A7R IV and when importing photos into Lightroom, I noticed they are underexposed. 1 or at least 2 stops. Correcting them means I am adding grain/noise to the photo so that is annoying.

I only shoot RAW, I have no colour profiles set up on the camera (all standard), no profiles on LR when importing, LCD screen brightness is fine (i.e. changing will not make a difference), Monitors fully calibrated (one is ASUS ProArt), and no other tweaks or settings on either side (Camera or LR). I tried importing with Adobe standard and Camera Standard profiles but no changes either

Also, it all happens when the import is finished. When importing the preview during the ongoing process looks like it will be ok, but when finishing the last bit to complete the import, LR does apply or does something to the photos that all of them go underexposed. That is in the last part, say last minute.

And to re-emphasize another important point that also has been mentioned above: a raw file is a blind data dump from the camera sensor. The only things that affect exposure are shutter speed, aperture and ISO setting (amplifying sensor signal performed by the camera circuitry).

"When importing the preview during the ongoing process looks like it will be ok, but when finishing the last bit to complete the import, LR does apply or does something to the photos that all of them go underexposed. That is in the last part, say last minute."

When LR first imports a raw, it uses the preview JPEG embedded in the raw by the camera as its initial Library preview. In background, it starts rendering the raw with the LR / Camera Raw engine, and when that's finished, it replaces the Library preview with that rendering.

There is no direct way to evaluate the exposure of raw data in Adobe converters, you need something like RawDigger to do so. The Histograms on the camera are not related to the raws but the JPEGs, the Histogram in LR is based upon the current edits. Best to zip and upload a raw to something like Dropbox or similar, I'll open in RawDigger and show the actual effect of exposure on your raws.

Nikon cameras have a feature called D-Lighting which causes this ... it changes the exposure of the RAW image in ways that Lightroom Classic sees as underexposure, while the Nikon software knows how to read the file to give the correct exposure.

To summarize, it's very likely that @DanyLaP has Dynamic Range Optimization enabled. This affects the JPEG preview displayed on the camera screen and embedded in the raw (which LR displays initially when it first imports the photo), but it has no effect on the captured raw image. We can't say definitively without a sample image from DanyLaP.

As a concrete example, I shot this photo with my Sony RX100 VII, Raw + JPEG, Dynamic Range Optimization: 5 (the highest level). The raw is on the left, the JPEG on the right; notice the JPEG is noticeably lighter:

After further testing I came to the conclusion that DRO is not translated into LR. Or LR is not able to read that. I have been shooting photos with DRO disabled, Lvl 1 and Lv5 and where the contrast difference it is clearly noticeable in the camera (and even exported to the phone via Imaging Edge), LR struggles to read these settings. If anything, the shot that has DRO Lvl 5 and it is very well balanced on the camera preview, LR shows it even darker than when I shot and export DRO disabled.

Sadly, I do not have time to use another app to transform the RAW into a file that will interpret that DRO so that LR does too when transfer into it. Luckily the dynamic range of this camera and the RAW photos at no loss, give me enough leeway to adjust myself with barely any noise.

Just saying this because when shooting with DRO on, on a few of those shots it was actually showing me a bit overexposed photo on the viewfinder to the point that I had to use exposure compensation to decrease exposure keeping the same shutter speed.

I read some good reviews, and saw some YouTube videos before making my final decision to buy. I was super impressed for all the technology and features this tiny point & shoot camera had. This might be the perfect camera for me, I thought.

The camera landed on my doorstep a few days before a weekend trip to Skagen in the North of Denmark. It was the perfect chance to first get to know the camera and then go and test it out in the field.

Every time I took a photo, I made sure to photograph it first with the Sony RX100 Mark 7 and then with my iPhone 13 Pro. I tried to get the photos as similar as possible shooting just on auto mode.

As I began to edit the photos and compare them to my iPhone snapshots my heart sank. For most of the images the iPhone had outperformed the Sony RX100 Mark 7. I even had to put more effort into edit the photos to get them closer to looking like the iPhone photos.

What this review is, is a discussion of the merits of a system from the point of view of someone who loves kit, spends too much (of his own money) on kit and has shot upwards of 30 weddings now with this system.

At its heart, what this system does is make things easy. There is virtually no effort to get sharp, in-focus shots, especially when your subject matter is people. You can customise the buttons to make switching modes or functions almost instant and avoid the need to go through the apparently labyrinthian Sony menu system (can't say it bothers me that much).

With the EVF you also have the reassurance that you can see what your exposure is so I find it very easy to trust the camera especially if the zebra lines can warn me if I'm blowing out the highlights. Top tip from Mark Galer re: zebra settings. Don't set the sensitivity too low or you'll be getting warned constantly.

All of my standard settings (aperture priority, auto-iso, ss, AWB etc) are all stored to memory position one so no matter what happens, such as a dramatic change in light, I can very quickly switch to those settings and get the shot.